Mico heat ranges are slightly off for this model I think . Better buy a NGK CR7HSA or Champion PRZ7HC . The champion is better when you are finding your plugs a bit oily or fouled up during inspection .
Do not run the bike for 3000kms on same oil , despite what Hero says . These bikes are hard run , run hot and have tiny sumps . They love fresh oil . Drain the oil hot after a ride and fill with fresh oil every 2000kms max . Use good cheap mineral oil , you can use HeroHonda/Gulf 10w30 in winter now - feels good in winter and starts quick . In summer nothing feels better than 20w40 motul 3000 (to me) . I can also confirm that my Splendor+ tends to stutter and die when choked in idle . If you've never done it , you can clean up the carb before you tune it - the detailed instructions for this are present on this very thread . I don't think your Splendor has any major problems - just a bit of cleaning,lubing and adjusting here and there would make it run just fine . Welcome to xbhp forums .

Yesterday, I changed the Engine oil. Used Motul 3000 4T 20W40. Found the engine to be running smoother at lower rev's compared to the regular Hero Honda engine oil. Couldnt make any considerable difference in higher revs though. Overall, Liking the engine behavior now. Thanks for the suggestions Shoeb and s1d.
Today, Will be Changing the air filter. Oiled the new filter elements and they are ready to fit in. Will clock 200km and then Clean the Carburetor and do the tuning as well. As suggested by Sibun.


Thanks Pinaki.
Will surely Change the spark plug to Champion PRZ7HC soon.

And, Thanks for your DIY on Air Filter cleaning. Was a very easy to follow, and I bought a pair of new air filter elements and oiled them yesterday and will be fitting them into the bike today. After how many kilometer should I clean the air filter again?

Will follow your DIY on Carburetor cleaning and clean the carburetor after clocking 200 kms with the new air filter. and then would do the Turning as well.

You had earlier mentioned that 1200 meters during the fuel cock test would be result in proper air fuel ratio. But, mine is giving me around 950-1050 meters. Hoping to increase that distance after the tuning. Thanks for all your contribution for the OT. It is really been very helpful to me.

Replies in bold

New bottle of servo super..i used this for my yamaha fazer 2004 model...
Guys any problem in using this oil?

AFAIK, Servo super multigrade 20w40 was the recommended oil in the first series Splendor owner's manuals , now it is labeled for petrol & diesel engined cars since Indian Oil is now marketing their specialized motorcycle oils and Hero to their own 10w30 . i.e you can use it - No problem .

Motul 3000 20w40 will feel better and better as you ride on . You can get the NGK plug just as well, because I think you are not burning any oil , just a bit rich tune of the carb or needing routine service on it . Hopefully you got the air-filter elements from HeroHonda (i.e OE part) ? Also be careful not to over-oil the foams - a common error . You can easily run 3000kms+ or six months on a clean and oiled-foam air filter under normal on-road city riding conditions . I am experimenting with this very thing now . Do not hesitate to ask if you have any problem doing any of that work - I am not perfect in my writings .

sid , if you take out the Splendor's carb and try it once , you'll see how simple,well made and easy this Keihin PB is . It's very difficult to screw up without using a big hammer . Mechanics usually don't bother to dismantle this carb - they just undo the float bowl from the bottom and clean it and the jets a bit and refit . I feel that after long period of neglect it's better to dismantle it fully to clean , which gives you a good opportunity to inspect the parts and for faults and replace dead o-rings .

taking it apart is not tricky, putting it back together and tuning it right is (for a learner on any carb).. for a guy starting of to learn carb cleaning/tuning, it would be better if he learnt it visually/practically rather than just thru reading about it. though if he is willing to learn it the hard way (if it's hard i.e.) then its up to him (like me.. for once i remember i went back to a mech after seeing the carb overflow pipe & battery breather pipe hanging below near the main stand and was like 'what have you done, why are those pipes hanging aren't they supposed to be connected'!! and that mech took me to a lot of brand new shiny CBZ's and asked me to look under them , this was in 2000!)

@mantenarajiv- I would suggest to watch from a mechanic and proceed for carb cleaning. Even tuning is not simple. The method i mentioned works for 99% bikes but in some bikes this method doesn't work and we have to tune by hearing the sound which i cannot explain. Some things are that which cannot be taught by book or instructions and experience is the best teacher.
@harish- Nothing to worry, previously when there was no 4t oil companies recommend this. In fact when i got a fake castrol here during my college time i used for 1 year this oil as i got it from the petrol pump i fill(i am filling from the same pump for last 7 years). Then when i became friend with a guy who owns spares shop and now he is one of my best friend i shifted to other oil. In fact after friendship with my retailer friend i got to know everything about spares and oils. I even met engineers from SHELL,MOTUL, ROLON, DIAMOND, HERO.
A page from my joy's manual where it is clearly recommended to use SERVO SUPER:-

In the manual you can clearly note about SERVO. It is one of the best oils than other craps in market.
@Pinaki- Although it might be easy to clean the carb, but he is opening the carb first time. In case of you,me,shoeb and all we have done this innumerable times on different bikes and thus we feel it easy. Heck i can say re-building engines is easy as i have opened every engine from splendor to pulsar to cbz and karizma. I have opened the engine of my friends bike after returning from office at 7 Pm. I opened the engines in half an hour, parts purchased from my friends shop, and con rod changed in friend's lathe and engine completed by 12 at night. But i cannot say the same about others. So its better to watch and then learn.

Thanks pinaki ji and sibun ji
This is the recommended tyre pressure of yamaha fazer 2004 model..the same is stamped in chain cover..am confused because they are recommending same pressure for both pillion and single ride for the back tyre

Thanks for the suggestion S1d.
I have once visually inspected the process of carburetor cleaning of a platina. But still get it cleaned at a mechanic. Will search for a good mechanic near by.

Thanks Pinaki ji.
And, Yes I did get the air filter elements from HeroHonda spares. Costed me ₹88. And, I think I did not over oil them. They were just as oily as the old air filter. It was not dripping, but I did feel the oil when I touched it.

Thanks of the suggestions Sibun ji.
Though I have seen the carburetor cleaning once for a platina, will still get it cleaned this time by a mechanic. Thanks for your concern.

And, Could the SAE 90 oil be used for lubricating the chain and any other parts?? Still have a lot of it left after oiling the air filter.

Yes, sae 90 oil is what must be used to lubricate the chain and for general lubrication (like oiling the brake cam/levers etc periodically or after a water wash like i do)

Right , has happened to me too . Took something apart then had to go to mechanic to put it back together . But I don't mind - how else to learn . But this Splendor's carburetor is the first one I serviced ever in my life by myself (so I am just an amateur too) . All I can remember is that I had to go out to buy a tiny No.8 wrench and a carb-cleaner spray and that there were no more hurdles . All previous bikes were serviced at Yamaha ASC(leaders kolkata) and yes I did watch them work on bikes for many years . Then I had never thought that someday with all you guys encouragement and help I'd be doing that stuff myself one day .

Front is ok at 25 PSI , maintain 35-36 at rear and you should be fine . Yes , all yamaha bikes I had also recommend same tyre pressure irrespective of pillion .

Ok , nicely done . That's how it should be - oily when pinched between fingers gently , but no visible oil . You are all set .

Yes , the same sae90 oil is recommended by HeroHonda for chain lubrication and i use it too . But with one caution - never use it where a brass or bronze or copper part is present (or may be present inside). One example is the key-switch hole - brass parts inside & key is also brass . It contains EP additives that is corrosive to these metals .
Best practice for general lubrication is to use fresh motor-oil (same that you use for the bike's engine) .

Most bike manufacturers and chain manufacturers recommend sae90 or a combo of grease+90 oil for chain lubrication.
Sulfur containing EP additives can cause corrosion problems in gears with parts made of bronze, brass and other copper alloys when high temperature environment is encountered.
^^ taken from Wikipedia Extreme pressure additive - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia , so not sure how 'true or false' this is

I have been using wd40 (easier to squirt in to the key hole n switch gear) and during a service the mech puts in a cpl of drops in to the keyhole. my key has lost its 'silvery' appearance and now its inner original form i.e. brass is what is visible (which i love over the metallic silvery finish ) - this is due to general wear rather than anything else.
So i guess as long as it not a 'high temp with a lot of rubbing around' you can safely use it on the key hole.

How is Suprajit ? Who makes the best cables ?

I wasn't just quoting from the wiki . I too was using EP90 gear oil for general lubrication for an year or so (easier to keep one same oil filled in the oil can) . A large good quality padlock which I was using to secure the bike jammed and slipped it's levers(key turns freely) . I couldn't ever open it again - very fortunately I had not locked the bike with that day with it but had just press-locked it and stored in the side-box . The locksmith I took it to said it was because of the oil . Then I remembered that the keylock on my yamaha crux had started to jam for the first time ever . Immediately back home I syringed the key hole profusely with kerosene and later dropped some sewing machine oil in there - and it was working again smoothly (before I sold the bike just few weeks back) . So I no longer keep EP90 in the oilcan , just spare fresh motor oil like I used to .

scares me !! maybe it was dust n grime that was accumulated due to the 'extra' stickiness of these gear oils that caused the problems with the locks you mention above.. just maybe..
and in my case, i guess the gear oil that was used in the keyhole doesn't stay there long enough because i almost every 15-20days days squirt some wd 40 into and around the keyhole and switchgear after a water wash.
Do you think i should try and use exclusively gear oil in/around the keyhole for a couple of months and see what happens