You can go to any HeroHonda ASC and ask them to do an compression test , they do have such a tester . Maximum charge for this may be Rs 25 or so . They did it for free for me . Because the ASCs have so much good equipment provided and maintained by Hero and training how to use it, I feel it is good to go to them in case of any doubt after some tinkering I have done , just to confirm and give me peace of mind . Their charges ( HeroHonda Co has provided a job-charge chart for each type of work done by them) is not unreasonable , sometimes cheaper than the local mechanics too . I also try to observe how they work on my bike and other bikes too , and try to learn from it . Last time when I was there I saw how easily they were removing/refitting the spark-plugs with a #16 ring spanner , while I had always struggled with the plug-wrench in my tool box , damn !! Also , they were using a very thin and flat #24 ring spanner kinda tool to unmount the rear sprocket carrier from the swingarm in a jiffy - now I gotta get one of those !

Wow! Amazed at the knowledge all of you have over her. Esp. Mr Pinaki.
Lil did I know a Splendor could be so intriguing. Will start work of my Splendor+ soon.

Nice work ,,,..How much oil did u use to oil?

Even my mechanic and i also use #16 spanner for opening plug. But while tightening, do with caution as the long handle will provide leverage and you can easily strip the threads.
I use #24 socket wrench for half axle nut. It has two advantage:-
1. The half axle nut edges do not get damaged.
2. I have a pleasure and its rear axle nut is #24. We have to open rear axle nut for removing drum. So it #24 socket can be used on joy,splendor and pleasure.
I thought you have sold your splendor after getting the the R15 V 2.0. Anyways you are welcome and splendor is an excellent bike to start DIY and you can also learn to work on other bikes by working on splendor. Just take a look at the whole thread and you will be amazed by the whole thread.

Hmm... i've person there of my known, i'll get to him.
I too use ring spanner, i've all types of tools, from small to big, i'd like to post the pic of it

But I use a 23mm ring spanner to loose the rear axle nut. I'm 100% sure.

I haven't checked, but u can put the oil in a plastic bag just making an estimation in your mind. Noting wrong if u put more oil than required. In fact you are squeezing it out the excess oil in the last.

What I've done, i put foam & oil in a plastic bag, after kneading i feel i need more oil, then i open the rubber band & put more. In the last, squeezed the excess in the same plastic bag, as my foam was new there so was no dirt in the oil (also if your foam is washed effectively), so i put back the collected oil from a plastic bag, back to the bottle.

A 1/2 cup of oil will do, there was very less consumption in oil, a 500ml bottle can last for a year easily.

In plastic bag air filter oiling method will the oil go into the inner pores of foam

Obviously, when u knead squeeze no dry spots will be left.
What happen when u touch a piece of foam with water? The foam automatically absorbs water in its pores, & when u squeeze it, it comes out!

Foam Air Filter Cleaning and Oiling by Yamaha Motor Corp. - YouTube

Friends how do you adjust idle speed of splendor?.For my old yamah fazer it has got a tachometer built -in..for fazer i adjust it after 5 mins of rinding to 1300-1500/- rpm..and for splendor i dont how to?..mechanics here adjust i by hearing engine sound and they set to low pulse,,,

The idle screw for splendor is just left to the choke. Adjust when engine is warm, press the clutch put gear, make sure the engine do not stall adjust as u wish
Keep it low & save fuel

I have changed clutch plates before 6 months & some 700/800 km earlier , at that time the mech was amazed to see each part is shinning like a brand new & with that shock he done stupid thing , he drained all oil & then replaced clutch plates & after it he forgot to add engine oil & started my bike , but just in a second i remember it & switched it off . No problem i faced in bike , just before some 15 days it tends to turn off upon keeping on idle & even at first start of bike & first run within 1 km on each morning . Yesterday i checked & found engine oil is very low just below the lower mark . I hope there is nothing to worry .

So today filled GULF PRIDE 4T PLUS SAE 10W30 oil in it . ( As my passion is 2002 model to which engine oil grade recommanded by HH is 20W40 . Also 20W40 of Gulf is available for 10 rupees less , but the dealer said 10W30 is also good & now HH/HMC recommand it & also its rainy season you won't found heat in engine . ) Its written to last for 10000km , i hope it will last atleast 2000km .

Total cost 210 rupees . Also got 30 rupees coupon inside it but given it to the mech .

If your compression is good then there is nothing to worry
regarding your stalling engine....you should clean your carburetor using carb-cleaner frequently, every thing, and adjust AFR & ideal screw when engine is warm. Also check the valve clearance if not done

I changed to Gulf 4T Plus 20w40 900ml recently got for Rs.230 & a 10rs coupon inside. Shopkeeper already charged me 10rs more.

It will even last for 5000 kms. The shopkeeper itself uses Gulf, when mechanic checked after 5000 kms he told him it can still run "No need to change" he told.
But i'd not recommend u to drain after 5000 its upon u. Gulf really last more than other oils. As per manual recommendations u can drive 4T Plus oils to up to 4000 kms.

Pinaki jee is there any diffenrence b/w 20w 40 diesel and petrol engine oil?......

Sorry to all for delayed replies lately and replying all together , I am getting back home so late ....
Yes , very good .. I have told you guys to use plastic(polybag) method only to avoid messy oily hands and even spreading of oil .
Also , I want to stress again the two step cleaning method I have used . Oiled foam is a volume type filter , i.e the dust particles , even to sub-micron size are trapped(and held there) deep inside the foam by the tiny droplets of oil present there . So simple cleaning with kerosene won't pull out all the trapped dirt . I follow it with wet wash in hot tide+water after the kerosene , to get it throughly clean ... not only looking clean on the surface . Ofcourse , if you do wet wash .. you must then squeeze and dry in sun for few hours .. to ensure it is 100% bone dry . If you oil an partially dry (even a tiny bit of dampness insides) filter , the foam will rot .

(please read my write-up) That is exactly what is intended , isn't it ? The main filtering , i.e of the smallest sub-micron particles happens deep inside the foam on tiny droplets of oil that sits there to trap it . The surface only stops the larger particles . As I have already said , it is a volume filter , unlike K&N or pleated-paper , which are surface filters only (so, inferior in that way) .

I think you have some doubt that oil going into the foam is blocking air-passage . No ? Well that is not the case here . When correctly oiled (and then squeezed), the oil is dispersed in form of tiny droplets stuck to the internal fibers of the open-cell type foam used here . Some air passage restriction is un-avoidable (as with any other such filter) .. but it should be very less , and the engine is designed to operate with this tiny restriction without any problems . Totally unrestricted air-intake for the engine = NO FILTER = totally unrestricted dirt also . Oiled-foam filters have the best balance of filtration , dirt-capacity and good flow .

Umm , be patient ... some secret agents are working on a digital tacho-meter for us .

You should also immerse a set of new clutch plates in fresh new engine oil overnight before you fit it . Atleast I've been doing that since my RX100, whensoever I do clutch change . But I don't think any damage done by a few seconds of run , there should be some residual oil still present in bearing recess and rings-landings . ( Sibun'Jee? ) .
Since almost all the oil is drained during clutch work by opening the engine case, some of the oil is kinda "taken-up" soon after the fill and the level may decrease drastically . Always check oil level again after few days of new fill .
Whenever case is opened for parts-change or clutch-work , change the oil early that first time around . Debris is shed by new bearings, parts and clutch-plates .
This is a new label I am seeing for this 10w30 gulf . It's a very good oil for 2000kms .. from my personal experience with it . Remember that 10w30 oil will need frequent level checks & top-ups . Congrats for an well maintained engine .

Never use mineral oil beyond 2500kms max in our conditions (Indian plains) , I don't even trust semi-synthetic beyond 2000 kilos . Or four months , if that comes earlier . Our small engines love quick oil changes .

Yes, lots . Diesel oils contain more extreme-pressure additives like zddp and more detergents , and less or no friction-modifiers . Also diesel rated oils are generally cheaper and more robust . This is beacuse inside diesel engines they have to contend with more temperature , carbon-soot and higher working forces . However , there are some very few oils .. which I saw outside India that can be used in both diesel and petrol engines , not only that .. they can be used both in cars with dry clutch and wet-clucth air cooled motorcycles too . One was Shell Rotella-T . Unfortunately , shell is'nt shelling it's best oils here .

Can' the same result be achieved by re-filling engine oil after reassembling the engine, and leaving it overnight before starting?