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**Pinaki** · 07-20-2012, 06:09 PM

Then your engine is running fine

. Very fine infact .

**Divya Sharan** · 07-20-2012, 06:10 PM

My first post in this thread.

I'm asking this query because I'm scared for the rider in this case being my dad.
Ride - Splendor 1997 model.
Kms on the odo - 2,01,233. (not sure if the odo was ever disconnected)

Parts changed so far -
1. Rear tire - 5 times
2. Front tire - 3 times
3. Mobil changed every 1800-2000 kms (20w40 being used for years)
4. Front headlamps (after some kid threw a stone at it

)
5. Brake pads - 'n' number of times
6. Indicators - some electrical problem cropped up. Changed the whole set.
7. Battery - maybe twice.

Engine has NOT been opened so far.

Nothing else!

Now the query - Isn't the engine supposed to be opened up after doing 2lac+ kms?
I mean, there must be some wear and tear in the mechanical parts, right?
But, my dad says the parts are ok. He gets a mileage of 67-68 kmpl and says there's no loss in compression, there are no oil leaks, acceleration is good, maxes out at 95-100 kmph on odo.

Are the internals so robust?
Kindly answer.

**shrinathrao** · 07-20-2012, 06:41 PM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

My first post in this thread.

I'm asking this query because I'm scared for the rider in this case being my dad.
Ride - Splendor 1997 model.
Kms on the odo - 2,01,233. (not sure if the odo was ever disconnected)

Parts changed so far -
1. Rear tire - 5 times
2. Front tire - 3 times
3. Mobil changed every 1800-2000 kms (20w40 being used for years)
4. Front headlamps (after some kid threw a stone at it

)
5. Brake pads - 'n' number of times
6. Indicators - some electrical problem cropped up. Changed the whole set.
7. Battery - maybe twice.

Engine has NOT been opened so far.

Nothing else!

Now the query - Isn't the engine supposed to be opened up after doing 2lac+ kms?
I mean, there must be some wear and tear in the mechanical parts, right?
But, my dad says the parts are ok. He gets a mileage of 67-68 kmpl and says there's no loss in compression, there are no oil leaks, acceleration is good, maxes out at 95-100 kmph on odo.

Are the internals so robust?
Kindly answer.

hey divya sharan.

I had a splendor 2001 model whom i rode for 10 years and still the engine was good till 1 lakh kms, after which i used castrol oil and that made maters worse and the engine seized at 1.2 lakh kms. A 1997 model had a different combustion and settings as compared to the new batches of splendor, so its quiet possible that the engine can last till 2 lakh kms+. and the old engines were better as compared to current batch. Check the clutch plates wear and change spark plugs also if possible replace the accelerator and brake cables.

**Divya Sharan** · 07-20-2012, 06:54 PM

Originally posted by shrinathrao View Post

hey divya sharan.

I had a splendor 2001 model whom i rode for 10 years and still the engine was good till 1 lakh kms, after which i used castrol oil and that made maters worse and the engine seized at 1.2 lakh kms. A 1997 model had a different combustion and settings as compared to the new batches of splendor, so its quiet possible that the engine can last till 2 lakh kms+. and the old engines were better as compared to current batch. Check the clutch plates wear and change spark plugs also if possible replace the accelerator and brake cables.

Thanks for the reply Sri.
He changed clutch plates at 1,50,000 I guess. (no idea whether he changed them earlier or not!)
He vivsits his patent mechanic once in 2 months for regular check ups. All cables are fine.
What worries me is the engine.

**paul.1911** · 07-20-2012, 07:24 PM

Originally posted by harish_gkumar View Post

Today i took sprk plug for inspection ..what condition is the plug indicating,,my bike is running rich or lean?

Your mixture is good.
Which spark plug is this? company & number?
This is a colder one.

**Pinaki** · 07-21-2012, 01:21 AM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

.. What worries me is the engine.

In 1997 if you'd mentioned BS-III , it would have been taken for an abbreviation for a different word altogether ... So the engines from that era are direct descendants of Honda cub engines(some say directly honda supplied) with the least amount of improvements by Hero . Now we know that has already been voted the best motorcycle ever , mainly because of the robustness of it's engine . The Triumph Bonneville t100, Britten V1000, Harley-Davidson Knucklehead, Honda CB750, Ducati 916 were in the race of-course , but couldn't beat the CUB to the top . Unsurprisingly , it is also the best selling motorcycle(and engine) ever in this world to date . During that test by Discovery-channel , in an attempt to kill it , they ran that engine on discarded cooking oil from a fast-food joint(after all the days fries) . Their finding was that "It actually ran a little better on it" . Don't believe me ? Well check this out

- Greatest Ever Motorcycles: # 1 - Honda Cub - YouTube
i.e if it's running well , you can stop worrying about it , it'll keep running well for some time yet

.

**paul.1911** · 07-21-2012, 07:47 PM

Hi Pinaki ji
I needa ask something

(Sorry i took this pic of your own, without your authorization)

When I tight completely these two #8 bolts of carburetor and pull the throttle full it gets stuck, i mean the drum on the carburetor get stuck on the top.
Then when i loose each bolts slightly equally, the drums gets down.
and i need to repeat this process (loosing bolts more) until the drum stops hang on the top.

Why is it so? Is this common to all??

**shoeb2015** · 07-21-2012, 09:47 PM

Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post

Hi Pinaki ji
I needa ask something

(Sorry i took this pic of your own, without your authorization)

When I tight completely these two #8 bolts of carburetor and pull the throttle full it gets stuck, i mean the drum on the carburetor get stuck on the top.
Then when i loose each bolts slightly equally, the drums gets down.
and i need to repeat this process (loosing bolts more) until the drum stops hang on the top.

Why is it so? Is this common to all??

Yes it is common if you overtighten those bolts.
First loosen the air-box to carb hose clamp.
After that tighten those #8bolts and then only tighten the clamp.

When you overtighten it, the carb slightly warps and bends as a result piston slide gets stuck.
Also happens if the black colored flange heat stopper gets compressed too much.

**paul.1911** · 07-21-2012, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

Yes it is common if you overtighten those bolts.
First loosen the air-box to carb hose clamp.
After that tighten those #8bolts and then only tighten the clamp.

When you overtighten it, the carb slightly warps and bends as a result piston slide gets stuck.
Also happens if the black colored flange heat stopper gets compressed too much.

Thanks.....
I've read one of your post regarding head carb cleaning...thanks so much for that!
I'm thinking to do a head cleaning of my bike myself
But i want some clarification....
before that here is some history
1) New Block piston, valves have changed at 72500 kms.....done by mechanics...I dont know whether they have change the o-rings, most probably changed i think

is Valve oil seal is different?
2) Then i done a head cleaning by mechanic at 81200...but i dont like the job done by them...not satisfactory at all...they haven't cleans the valves completely

Now current reading is 88000, compression is good but still something is forcing me inside to go for heading cleaning again....but this time by myself.
Should I go for it or wait until 10k?
If yes
Then what are the things I need?
1) head packing for sure....what next??
Do I need o-ring kit or Valve oil seal? what are these? if u clear me pls?

I dont have Valve spring compressor

how much it cost?
I can see different kind of it in google.

How can i polish the valves?? what grit number paper is required? pls help!

**shoeb2015** · 07-21-2012, 11:59 PM

Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post

Thanks.....
I've read one of your post regarding head carb cleaning...thanks so much for that!
I'm thinking to do a head cleaning of my bike myself
But i want some clarification....
before that here is some history
1) New Block piston, valves have changed at 72500 kms.....done by mechanics...I dont know whether they have change the o-rings, most probably changed i think

is Valve oil seal is different?
2) Then i done a head cleaning by mechanic at 81200...but i dont like the job done by them...not satisfactory at all...they haven't cleans the valves completely

Now current reading is 88000, compression is good but still something is forcing me inside to go for heading cleaning again....but this time by myself.
Should I go for it or wait until 10k?
If yes
Then what are the things I need?
1) head packing for sure....what next??
Do I need o-ring kit or Valve oil seal? what are these? if u clear me pls?

I dont have Valve spring compressor

how much it cost?
I can see different kind of it in google.

How can i polish the valves?? what grit number paper is required? pls help!

Get the following items-
There are two o-rings between head and bore.One for main Oil gallery and other for Oil return.
All the three are visible in this picture

Timing chain side rectangle gasket.
Sidecover packings
tappet cover o-ring
rocker cover gasket
waxpol valve lapping compund
AND
Valve spring compressor,It costs about Rs.190.(Sorry I cant recall the exact price,please check my posts)

500,1000 grit Sillicon carbide paper.(localy known as waterpaper because it is waterproof

)

If you are removing valves then make sure that there is a flat washer just below the springs.

**Pinaki** · 07-22-2012, 12:13 AM

@ Paul , Shoeb has already answered all your questions perfectly . This is used for valve grinding , it has two grades of abrasive paste on either side of the tin . Start with the coarse and move to the fine .

@ Shoeb - can you post a pic of the spring-compressor please ?

**shoeb2015** · 07-22-2012, 12:31 AM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

@ Shoeb - can you post a pic of the spring-compressor please ?

I will post it tomorrow.

**shoeb2015** · 07-22-2012, 05:38 PM

Valve Spring Compressor

**harish_gkumar** · 07-22-2012, 10:02 PM

he most important aspect for ensuring great performance and long life of engine of any bike is Engine Oil. Engine 0iL is to bike is what blood is to human. The quality and quantity of engine oil matters more than anything else in the bike. Therefore engine 0iL is the most critical maintenance aspect of any bike. The quantity and quality of engine 0iL to be filled is different for each bike model and is given in the OWNERS MANUAL of the bike. Read it carefully and follow it exactly. The procedure of changing engine 0iL is as follows:
Put bike on main stand. Keep a tin can or plastic mug exactly under the drain plug (which is at the bottom of the crankcase). Open the drain plug and let the old 0iL drain out into this can / mug. Keep the drain plug open overnight and let the old 0iL drain out overnight==many hours, so that last drop also drains out. Then in the morning measure and fill the exact quantity through the filler hole which is at the top of the crankcase. Before starting the bike, check whether the engine 0iL is up to the required level. Most bikes have a dip-stick attached to the filler cap, on which the maximum and minimum levels are marked. So measuring the level is very easy and convenient. However some bikes like Hero Honda Glamour, Suzuki Zeus and few others have a transparent inspection window (no dipstick) way down in the crankcase, and it is extremely inconvenient to check 0iL level. For one, a person has to almost lie down on the dirty ground to be able to see it and for another, there is never enough light to be able to see the 0iL level, more so in the bright sun!

For best results, after draining out the old 0iL, it is better to clean the crankcase by flushing it with flushing 0iL. If flushing 0iL is not available and / or too expensive, you can use ordinary diesel. To flush, what you have to do is as follows:

After the old 0iL is totally drained out overnight, next morning fill one litre of diesel in the crankcase. Put bike on main stand such that rear wheel doesn’t touch the ground, and start engine. Let engine run (bike on main stand) in neutral for 20 seconds only. Stop & switch off the engine. Let it cool for five minutes. Start again, put in first gear and run it for 20 seconds. Rear wheel will turn. Let it turn. Again stop engine for five minutes to let it cool, and do same in second gear. Repeat this process of put in gear, run for 20 seconds, stop engine for five minutes and run engine for 20 seconds in all gears. Then when diesel is still hot, drain it out completely, keeping drain plug open for at least 20 minutes. Then fill fresh 0iL. It is best to change 0iL filter every time you change 0iL even if it is synthetic 0iL. Author:DILIP BAM

I'm going to try this on my friends old bike

**shoeb2015** · 07-22-2012, 11:29 PM

^^
No matter what you do ,there will be some diesel left in the engine and it will contaminate/dilute new engine oil.
Change the oil frequently and there will be no need of any engine flush.

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