I use to clean with blade or knife. use sand paper & apply petroleum jelly it will reduce coming carbon deposits.

I clean it with a solution of baking soda using a brush and then wash it with water.

How do you apply jelly when the terminals are covered with a plastic sleeve ?

Just a little bit layer will prevent carbon from coming and from clip damaging.

I'd appreciate if you would answer my oil coming problem?

@pinaki-ji thanks very much for the quick reply.Will take the help of a mechanic and try to do it this weekend.

Also good to know you escaped without any injuries.

P.S checked out halonix website, they don't seem to have a dealer in Chennai.Will anyway ask around a few places. Was browsing for other halogen lights when I came across this from Philips



Has anyone used this bulb or had any idea about the bulb?

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Yes,it is a good and easily available bulb.

@paul
450-500 ml means that you lost almost 350 ml which quite a lot !!
As you mentioned that you had oil leaks so that could be one of the reason for oil loss.
After how many Kms oil is turning dark ? Any noticeable loss in power,top speed,effort needed to kick start ?

Fix all the leaks and then by checking the amount of oil lost in 1000km we can tell if it is a faulty valve stem seal or bad oil-rings.


@Sibun
Where are you ?

damage oil-seals have replaced before adding new oil. No more leaks now.
I've driven about 550 kms and when i take out the dip stick, the drop from it was looking dark, when i put into my finger it was looking lightly dark.

I cant say about power loss, i think top speed has affected. I normally drive between 40-60, but one day when i tried to fetch the full throttle, i feel the bike is loosing power, the top speed is 80 and it fetch to about 76, cant say exact figure because of traffic interruptions, i'll check again in the night when the roads are empty.

I couldn't get this. Sometimes the bike needs choke in the morning, but starts on the one kick, no smoke, compression is also good.

The amount of oil has not dropped, it will take a sometime to get to 1000kms

Edit:Its a good bulb. But remember brighter light bulbs have less life hours.
Check the link will give u the idea "Halogen bulbs in general"

I am here.When i am here,have no fear.
From your description the bike is loosing compression. Even if the oil seals are damaged then also 350 ml is too high a amount. Your problem of low top speed indicates that your bike is loosing compression.
This is the reason why i always advice never to use OE bore kit. I have done that and suffered a lot. When my engine was overhauled second time, i replaced to OE bore kit. But the bike consumed more oil than with old bore. Then i changed the rings to first oversize by grinding the rings and fitting. This stopped the oil consumption but the engine seized at 15K after overhauling. So go for USHA kit. If you buy OE bore kit, Then simply throw away the piston and rings or else give it to your kid to play with it, and go for standard size usha piston and rings with OE bore. In your case since you have changed to new bore, open and see if the bore is good or worn.If it is worn then simply change to USHA bore kit. This is the reason why i refer alternative parts as they are much superior to OE parts. They say experience is best teacher and i have experienced a lot.
Ok, just open your chain cover and check the sprockets. If they are worn out then never clean the chain. As if the sprockets are worn out and you clean the chain then the carbon gets cleaned and it will cause play in chain and sprockets and make it UN ridable. If the sprockets are ok then clean the chain as pinaki has suggested.
Your old plug is sorted and so your plug is coming black in color. 1.25 turns are ideal for old carburettors. In new carburettors 1.75-2 turns are ideal. Since your exhaust is oily and your plug is sorted, this confirms your bike is consuming oil. Remember if your plug is getting sorted regularly then your bike is consuming oil.
Oil soaking is important to extend the life of plates. Makino makes pre soaked plates, so there is no tension in soaking the plates.
@pinaki- There is no need of changing the pressure plates when not damaged. In my 3.1 lacs km i have changed the pressure plates only once. Even the clutch springs are not required as they do not loose tension so soon. And do not change the clutch plates regularly as they are not required. change them only when worn. My clutch plates last for 35-40k easily and when there was Japanese clutch plates it used to last for 80-90k. So my theory is to never fiddle unless required. Pressure plates and springs are not required in a hero honda.
Sorry to learn about your accident. It is same everywhere. These car owners think that the bike owners are poor chap who have no right of road.
In bhubaneswar, for the last three years there is a sudden spurt of cars and you will see more cars than bikes on road. These car owners think that bike are on road on their mercy. Here the car owners have too much EGO. They do not dip their headlights, nor leave way even if they are traveling at 30 kph or never give a damn respect to any bike. Sometimes i feel like taking a iron rod and smashing their wind screen. No matter you ride a ninja, a idiot driving a ALTO will never care a hoot.
And regarding your stalling problem, fuel has entered the top portion of carburettor and thus causing stalling. Open the carburettor and clean it.

Usually in a hero honda the idle rpm is set at 1100 rpm. When the engine is warm then switch on the headlight and pull the clutch in. Now slowly decrease the idle till strokes are audible and the engine just idles. If you decrease more then your bike will stop.
If your bike is not idling slowly then following problem can be deduced-
1. Your AFR is not set correctly,
2. Your valves are leaking may be because of valve problem or tight tappets,
3. Ignition system is faulty,
4. Carburettor is faulty.
Yes i know it is #23 but you can also use #24 as they are compatible. I mentioned #24 as it helps me in loosening the half axle and also open the axle nut of my sisters pleasure.

Yes my daily running is 160 km and i alternate between my joy and extreme each other day. Previously it was only joy and thus it ran quite a lot.
Yes if you want go for new crank but be sure it is GENUINE. but why to change the crank if your original crank can be repaired to almost new condition.
And please see the above part of post and change to USHA bore kit.
And regarding skills, most mechanic are working on this engines for last 25 years. So most mechanics can work on it even with their eyes closed. Simply remain with him while overhauling and click photos and post here.

I was waiting for your reply thanks
actually i was not registered with xbhp when i have installed OE bore last year. Now i come to know about various things that u've mentioned.
Firstly, when my engine was bored on factory bore i used USHA ring piston, cost 450 at that time, bore done at 45K but not last for at least 15K, i dont know why, crank was also damaged, so I again changed to OE bore at 72K.
But the biggest mistake i've done is, i've used off market timing chain, roller & clutch plates for low cost. that timing chain was not found to be good and started creating noise, I again change to OE chain roller, clutch plates after 9k (again i not come to know about DID, coz of not registered, i dont even know there is xbhp forum). Also the bike was running with access clearance till 88K & may have affected the valves, rings.
I salute your experience, now i'm come to know where i've done the mistakes.
My two mechanics (one from ASC) told that 'bore khatam!'

Edit: The smoke is not visible yet, should run my engine till its last breath.
To how much the USHA piston at OE bore will last? My previous experience was bad, that may be due to the work done by mechanics.
Now i've realized, this time even if i go for re-boring, i'll do myself.

The old spark plug is not too much old, intact its almost new I have driven about 1500 kms on that. It haven't turned white even when i newly installed it.

Firstly i will let you know that there are many fakes of USHA in market. What you got for Rs. 450 is most probably a fake. As i have posted the picture the original usha piston set cost Rs. 750.
As for your problem, i think your con rod has excessive play which is causing early death of bore.
Do not rebore as most boring are done on cheap shoddy machines. just change to new USHA bore kit. Just mail USHA and get to know where they have their authorized distributor.
But i request you to completely open engine and do the work as if there is excessive play in connecting then it will finish your bore early.
I think the old spark plug was defective from factory.
Run the engine in this condition and for some time and when you have the finance completely open the engine.
Not necessarily all after market spares are bad. If you want then i will provide a overview of engine rebuild and what parts to use for better life of engine.
EDIT- I just saw you are from jamshedpur. If you want then i can help you with your engine rebuild.

Thanks a lot sibun for having interest on engine rebuild for me
As my engine have not gone too bad that i need urgent replacement. It can still run for more 10k i think. My father says why to spend more money if u can still run it easily, utilize it more, if it becomes completely dull then i'll change it.
Currently i wanna know, if there is not any valve oil seals or o ring leaks? from where does the oil come to the combustion camber? If it not comes from bore, then it probably coming from valves or from some where? why engines smoke?

Edit: I discover something, the head packing is leaking i think. You can see here in the red arrow mark.


This is not original packing, the mechanic use the local packing when head cleaned at 82k, it just a packing dont use the original it cost very much, he said.
You can see here in this pic too


If oil is coming out of packing then it must be getting into the combustion camber, so the compression leak!
What u say?

@Sibun
I had opened the clutch cover to clean the oil filter but then I also opened the clutch assembly and found that the pressure plates were discolored and burnt severely.
Even though I did not have any problem with the old clutch I replaced it for my satisfaction.
You have a lot of experience but I don't have that kind of experience but curiosity forced me to check it out!!!

Man why did you use local packing. If local packing is used then gasket cement is used. Chances are that he also used local head o-rings. This is causing oil leak into combustion chamber and also compression leaks.
Always go for OE packing and original head o-rings. If these o-rings get damaged then your bike will drink oil like bore is damaged.
Instead of OE packing you can use talbros packing as they are OE supplier to all 2 & 4 wheelers in india. In fact the OE packings are supplied by TALBROS.
And always go for original head o-rings.
Change these and your compression will increase and oil consumption will stop. Why did you not tell this before.
TALBROS website:-
Talbros - Reflecting Leadership

I even see some sealant used along with old/local head gasket.
As sibun told, replace the gasket and o-rings.
That head gasket holds the entire pressure during compression stroke !!


@ ALL
The problem of idiot mechanics is partly because of us.
Most of us get the bike repaired only when it starts troubling and we don't know the word "preventive maintenance" just because we think mechanics know everything and is waste of money getting the bike serviced when it is running fine.
On top of this, idiot mechanics who don't know anything give rubbish advises to their customers as if they are the ones who designed it,they will tell you all sorts of excuses to make you not to follow the owner's manual.

Some mechanics want to change every spare part possible and then loot the customer and the other type of mechanics say no need to replace it even when it needs to be replaced,some mechanics don't repair the bike in front of the customer and give a lame excuse that it will take much time to fix and you come at so and so time to pick the bike.
I have seen mechanics use all sorts of cheap duplicate spare-parts and charge the customer for original parts,some charge for parts which is not even changed.
Most of the mechanics check oil and say it will run for another 1000km when that oil has been run for more than 3000km. and that customer will ride the bike happily for more than 2000kms.

This is what I have seen,may not be applicable for others.
Fortunately I have a trustworthy and honest mechanic and people come to him from different parts of city to get their bikes fixed.
No offence meant to anyone.

This is the bulb I have purchased for my splendor.it's an osram bilux halogen bulb. Cost 90 rs


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Ops! sorry
Actually, i haven't think about that ever. Everyday i look to my engine but the word head "packing leak & compression loss " haven't come in my mind.

Two mechanics (one from ASC) told me the same thing about bore damaging, but i was suspecting something else. I'm always thinking & asking the question to myself From where does the oil coming to the combustion camber? problem is must be something else.
So, i doubt, googled & found this link 'troubleshoot smoke'
and when i read that, i found a word gaskets and suddenly a picture of my head gasket come to my mind, then & there i suspect. Oh...my god, there is my problem! I ran to see and got it, took a picture & uploaded here to show you.
If i were already know i wouldn't have ask u so much pardon me please

o-rings have not been replaced that time, nor i've checked, nor a mechanic suggested me to change. I doubt if it has changed ever. It must be leaking too because the mechanics here are so ____ ____ ___ that they only change those parts what you have given him to change. I hate those! Why they are so __ __ __?? ........shoeb wrote very correct thing.

Now i'm going to change every oil seal, o-ring, gasket in the head including valve oil seals. I haven't opened my engine so i dont know how many are theres. So i'd appreciate if u give me final list of parts i'm gonna need..please! If u can Include whatever price u know.

Edit: i drive on the night today to check the top speed. My bike has never gone above 80 and so what today. But i was expecting more coz my tyre is new and have more diameter. I opened the full throttle & haven't cross the 80, it was smoking quite badly but its only visible on high rpm.

very true Shoeb
I dont know what mechanics thinks of himself, they think they know everything and he is the most intelligent, honest mechanic of the town, state or world whatever
Even some small kids work here as assistant they think himself more than actually they are.
You know what? whatever written in the owner's manual is wrong and whatever they suggest is 100% correct because they are engineered from a top 10 universities of this world.

lol ...mechanics are what, what they are. but some customers are also so dumb that they dont even know how to tight the brake, they come to mechanic for it, where everything is written on the manual, and knowing a drain interval is out of their head. No records Nothing!

Osram bulbs are also good, did u see any difference? Whats its life hours?