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**Gansan** · 08-02-2012, 10:53 AM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Rs 88

only for the set, gansan'Jee . But yes , the foams does get damaged a bit every time you use petrol on it , you can actually feel that if you use your bare hands to clean .. it feels soggy and swollen in petrol(I have tried it) . Also other than the flammability , petrol is able to penetrate skin(on your hands for example) and enter bloodstream and is a known carcinogen . Using safer high flash point solvents like kerosene and never oiling a wet filter , it should last 5 years at least . If it is possible , avoid using petrol .

I always use kerosene, after squeezing it out use lots of news paper to mop up what little still remains, leave it on a clothes line to dry. Then oil a previously cleaned element and fit it. This is in between services, around the 1500 KM mark - as my bike goes for service every 3000 KM.

It is the service centres / mechanics who always use petrol from my own bike. I got tired of arguing with them long ago!

Interestingly in the A.S.S at Bangalore as well as here, they use kerosene / diesel to clean the chain. But for the air filter, they maintain HH recommends only petrol!

**harish_gkumar** · 08-02-2012, 01:09 PM

Originally posted by Gansan View Post

IIRC Yamaha Fazer/FZ needs 1200 ml of engine oil. The phamplet I got with a proforma from a dealer clearly states so. Is it only for the latest models?

My bike is old yamaha fazer old 125 cc..which was replaced by gladiator > i needs only 1lt engine oil ..written in the manual..

**shoeb2015** · 08-02-2012, 03:40 PM

Originally posted by harish_gkumar View Post

some months back when i went for periodic oil change of my fazer to a renowned mechanic a strange thing happened. when i told him to change the oil he took 900 ml of engine oil and i was surprised and suggested him that fazer needs 1000ml of oil..That mechanic replied no bike engine needs 1000 ml of oil ..i showed him my owners manual which stated to use 1000ml..and he replied if we use 1000 ml engine will struggle to pump the oil and mileage and pick up will decrease..i asked him if it was so then y should company recommend to use 1000ml..and the MORON

replied bike cmpny does no about bikes and only he and rest of the mechanics knows better...After a long debate and quarrel i took my bike and changed my oil myself to 1000ml...and suggested my friends not to consult him for this kind of maintenance and follow owners manual to change engine oil change /grade /quantity..

Same old problem everywhere

,they even tell you the condition of oil just by rubbing it against their index finger and thumb and feel for finger prints.
If checking viscosity of oil was this easy then I don't know what will happen to HI-tech labs !!!!

It is easy to replace engine oil and you can let it drain overnight if you change it in your home yourself.

**Pinaki** · 08-02-2012, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

Please clean the ignition switch connector contacts first ....

Where is that ? How to do it ?

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

..DO a quick amp test to find any unaccounted battery drain with the ignition switch in on position and gear in neutral.
The maximum current drawn should be 0.20 amps with neutral indicator glowing and 0.8 amps in any other gear ,anything more than that indicates a slight short somewhere...

How to test this with a simple multimeter ? I am determined to find the short - if any

.

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

.. Did you check CDI and ignition coil contacts ? ..

Yes ,cleaned those already .
One question , how to remove the thick wire leading to the plug from the ignition coil ? Simply pull out ? Or it' screwed in there in some other way ?

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

.. I will post the service limits of those.(Resistance of primary and secondary coil) ..

Please do , and quickly please .

Today again no rain here , and no stall , no drama - bike ran splendidly !

**Above_All** · 08-02-2012, 10:03 PM

After lots more effort finally found spare catalogue of passion . But damn it is not very clear .

@ pinaki ji the socket for Ignition Switch is on backside of headlight , to remove the wire from plug cap move the plug cap anticlockwise . To test current drawn put the multimeter in current testing mode & connect in between positive battery connection . ( positive from battery to 1 wire of multimeter , 2nd wire of multimeter to positive terminal wire from wire loom where positive of battery connected normally )

**Pinaki** · 08-02-2012, 10:14 PM

No not from the plug cap(already done that) , I wanted to check the other end .. that goes into the coil itself . Didn't just want to yank that without knowing

.

Thanks , then I'll have to dismantle the front fairing thingy , no ? Have never done it ...

**shoeb2015** · 08-02-2012, 10:24 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Where is that ? How to do it ?
Remove the HL fairing by unbolting two #10 bolts(The ones beside indicator)r ,search for a rectange white connector which has four wires.Dry it completly by using a hair drier and then wrap it with a electrical insulation tape

How to test this with a simple multimeter ?

Just check the current flowing through the battery by connecting the DMM in series with positive lead of battery.

Yes ,cleaned those already .
One question , how to remove the thick wire leading to the plug from the ignition coil ? Simply pull out ? Or it' screwed in there in some other way ?

The HT wire CAN BE REMOVED from the ignition coil but make sure you install the wire and sleeve correctly,you may see some strands of wire coming out but it is 100%normal

Please do, and quickly please .

Primary coil to ground must be 0.4 ohms,secondary coil to ground or primary must be 6k ohms.

If you want I will post the pictures of ground ,primary,secondary coil contact.
Clean the contacts with sandpaper/emery.

Today again no rain here , and no stall , no drama - bike ran splendidly !
Say Splendor ran splendidly !!!

Replies in bold.

Ignition Charging coil- 242 ohms
Pickup coil -198 ohms.

Ignition coil

Primary to ground-0.4 ohms (Difficult to test with a Rs.100 multimeter

,
Remedy -If DMM shows the same reading when both the probes of DMM are touched then it is OK)

Secondary coil to ground or primary - 6,000 ohms / 6k ohms

NOTE-Expect minimum 5-10% inaccuracy if you are using a cheap/basic multimeter.

**harish_gkumar** · 08-03-2012, 01:58 PM

My mechanic friend suggested me this oil:

he said that its good for old engines as it contains detergents that will remove dirt deposits and sludge

**paul.1911** · 08-03-2012, 03:37 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

how to remove the thick wire leading to the plug from the ignition coil ? Simply pull out ? Or it' screwed in there in some other way ?

Its screwed, rotate anti-clock, same as when u remove plug cap.
I'm sure that your stalling engine has nothing to with wire damage, carbon, crack, wet or something. Just clean your carburetor and tune it if u haven't done already.
Regarding your battery drain, checking your amps will not solve this problem.
Battery drain indicates its going to need replacement. Battery never drains if its wet. You can do one thing, charge your battery when fully charged leave your battery for a day and check for the power loss, if there is your battery needs replacement.
Another inspection, if battery is going dead, it'll leave more carbon deposited on its terminal and it will also consume more battery acid, will results in more distilled water filling than u normally do, specially on its first or last cell.

If u r going though this problem, than your battery surely needs replacement.
If you still not believe, take your battery to your battery manufacturer service center, and tell them to check its gravity. They'll tell your battery condition is just a few minutes.

**shoeb2015** · 08-03-2012, 06:13 PM

I have a local made battery which I bought 3years ago as a replacement for Rs.250 (in exchange of old battery),now it costs Rs.450,1 year warranty,1 free service

.
This battery is not available elsewhere because the battery-walla manufactures this in a small room

as a result production is limited .

The battery holds enough charge to blow the horn even after 10 days without charging and the quality is better than many other branded batteries that to at half the price !!!

No problems even after me doing lots of electical mods,deep cycling the battery many times ,overloading it, etc............................

**paul.1911** · 08-03-2012, 09:40 PM

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

now it costs Rs.450,1 year warranty,1 free service

.

No, now its cost 550 for Exide, and 50 for old battery.

**Pinaki** · 08-03-2012, 09:57 PM

Originally posted by harish_gkumar View Post

My mechanic friend suggested me this oil:...he said that its good for old engines as it contains detergents that will remove dirt deposits and sludge

It is a car oil , don't touch it

.

**psr** · 08-03-2012, 11:37 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

It is a car oil , don't touch it

.

I was reading through Oil,... it's properties and how it had evolved...I am sorry to say that the modern oils have a lot of essential good ingredients removed from the oils due to the presence of the Catcon...I also saw that a API CI-4 oil can be used in bikes with wet clutch.....this is the observation of many old timers with wet clutch Liter class bikes....and Diesel oil are good in keeping engine clean and also lasts longer due to it's higher heat capacity....
I found that the shell Rimula R4 is a diesel oil of API CI-4...going to check further and get more info..
My request to you Ji to share whatever knowledge you get on this particular oil...
The latest Shell Rotella is no longer safer to use in motorcycles since their altered composition includes friction modifiers.

**shoeb2015** · 08-04-2012, 12:07 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I was reading through Oil,... it's properties and how it had evolved...I am sorry to say that the modern oils have a lot of essential good ingredients removed from the oils due to the presence of the Catcon...I also saw that a API CI-4 oil can be used in bikes with wet clutch.....this is the observation of many old timers with wet clutch Liter class bikes....and Diesel oil are good in keeping engine clean and also lasts longer due to it's higher heat capacity....
I found that the shell Rimula R4 is a diesel oil of API CI-4...going to check further and get more info..
My request to you Ji to share whatever knowledge you get on this particular oil...
The latest Shell Rotella is no longer safer to use in motorcycles since their altered composition includes friction modifiers.

Castrol GTD 15W40,API CF-4.
Castrol GTX diesel is 20W40, API CC.
Both the oils are available easily here and I am having two bottles of Castrol GTD with me , Can I use it in my splendor ?

Is Rotella available in India ?

**psr** · 08-04-2012, 12:25 AM

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

I have 2 liters of Castrol GTD 15W40,API CH-4 and I think it can be used safely in our bikes,no ?

Also,Castrol GTX diesel is 20W40, API CC .

Only API CI-4 or the latest JASO MA2....the CI-4 is supposed to have more of ZDDP and Phosphor , and other anti wear ingredients which will not make the clutch slip.

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