It is not yet over. I will post more as after y2k models are there and also after 2010 models like pro are there. So wait as i post it to-night.
Yes, GPT and clutch gear are same in all.

Sibun,
Today i tested the top speed of my bike, it touched almost 90 kph, full throttle opened.
This OE kit had ran 18500 km till today. And after de-carbonize 2500 kms only.
The kit was changed may be in the month of April-may 2011. I dont know the manufacturer.
My chain sprocket is still OE (10k km done), timing chain is also from OE 10k done & still running without any noise.
Exictor coil has changed u know, no alteration has been done to pulsar coil.
Spark plug is white (not brown or red). My bike can go upto 1.8 km after turning the fuel cock off at very less throttle open at 40 kph and below.
Compression is fine at it is easily kickable. It is not too much hard to kick. Sometimes i feel hard when hot.
Bike starts at 1 kick in the morning and runs without any hiccups. Now at 3rd position on the slider needle from top.
Mileage i'm getting is not so much impressive, sometimes i get 60-65 or even 55 dont know why.
Currently im running Gulf FS 10w30 oil.

My question is, can i expect more mileage and top speed from my bike?
As u know my rear sprocket is 42 teeth and tire diameter is also more than stock i.e, 3.00-18
I dont know how do u get 83 kpl.

This is my spark plug pic....may tells u some story.

Your mixture is good (bit lean , but ok) , you are getting carbon on the surround ring from riding a lot in low gears and low rpms in congested streets . This is also my problem , can hardly put the bike on fourth ever . The city has it's own pace . 90 kmph is ok, it's the top speed indicated by hero-honda for this bike . Also 65 kmpl is good in these conditions . I too get between 60 and 72 depending on the pump I get to fill that day . Splendor's engine is not as frugal as some other newer 100ccs . Also such high carbon levels on the plug can be from adultrated fuel too , so keep an eye on where you fill .

Dude can you throw some more light on this slider needle thing?.....i mean what is the purpose of different positions of slider needle? i have seen similar thing on Apache RTR carb where in the needle can be set at different positions.

The slide needle can be lowered or raised to change the AFR.
Raising the needle richens the mixture and lowering it leans out the mixture. Not all models have same needle tapers,depending upon the taper of the needle different results can be obtained.
It is used to fine tune the needle jet and this is something which should not be tinkered with unless one knows what he is doing,it takes a lot of experience to correctly adjust the needle height. Here nobody knows it better than Sibun.

I would say dont mess-up with it, if u really dont have any critical problem. Just stay on the factory fitting, that is what perfect.
My case was different, my bike was having a starting problem and hiccup problem a lot, it was 2nd position, dont know if someone had changed it to 2nd. I don't know the factory fitting also, so i'm testing it out, and now its running better without any problem.
I've noticed more smoothness in my bike, also it differs your throttle opening, you may notice more or less throttle opening after changing this setting.

Cant say really if its effect your mileage or not. But according to sibun.. AFR doesnt need to be adjust, as it is different part. Here is what he had wrote to me in PM.
"air screw controls different part of tuning and needle different"

The different positions of the clip on the needle gives you a different range of adjustments that is possible with the AFR screw/s . Say if you have adjusted the carb to the leanest possible setting with afr adjustments but your mixture is still a bit rich , but you are already at the leanest possible setting of the afr-screw - then you need to move that clip on the needle to the next leaner range , so that a even more lean afr setting becomes available to you thru the afr screw now . Moving that clip does that - changes the afr-screw adjustments to a leaner or richer range . Hope I have been able to explain it in a useful & simple way . But I forgot moving it which way(up or down) relates to leaner and richer ...

When you open throttle the slide rises and raises the needle which in closed position is seated on the emulsion tube to which the main jet is fixed to. So higher the needle meaning more fuel when slide rises and lower the needle lesser fuel. So in short if needle is raised then you'd get a richer setting throught lower mid range to upper mid range, and vise versa. Only some carbs come with an adjustable needle. In my stock Keihin CV 30mm, the needle position is fixed but I've raised it using 2 circlips I bought from a hardware shop for 50ps each, In my Mikcarb VM28, the needle comes with adjustable notches where a circlip determines its position.

adding to that, afr screw, controls the idle circuit and till 1/8 throttle opening. From 1/8 to 3/4 throttle openings (part throttle conditions) are controlled by needle position. From 3/4 to wot, main jet determines the AFR. So if bike's still behaving lean or rich between 1/8 to 3/4 throttle opening, needle height needs to be changed. . @ Ashwin, can you post the pics of circlips that you used?? Also, any idea to lean out the mix?

Thanks pinaki, ashwinprakash and Honda_CBF for a wonderful explanation. I was wondering if keihin carb on my twister has such adjustable needle clip....i had similar problem like paul said...with hiccup to twister engine and during my 4th service i had asked Honda mech to solve it....he did opened the carb and did something with it. and after riding i did noticed a nice improvement in lower-mid range pull between 30-50 speeds. I could easily climb a steep incline in third gear which bike was bit struggling earlier. On the downside the mileage also dropped by around 4 kmpl....and also felt like i am turning the throttle little bit more then usual and engine sounded bit quieter.

The small ones are for the Mikuni VM28 and big ones are for Keihin 30mm CV.

You sure you want to lean out the mid end? Anyways get an after market(As in Enfield Spares ) Mikuni needle costs around 20~25rs.

Please spare this thread from Off topic posts,I also shouldn't have replied to christo's modification query.Sorry.
Next time,please use PM. No offence to anyone.

Very likely - as far as I can recall , Twister uses a similar if not the same Keihin PB model carb as the Splendors .

twister also has Keihin PB model carb.....but i am not sure if its the same one as on splendors

The same old trouble . Had washed bike on sunday, little bit too vigorously splashed with mugs of water too - since it hadn't been washed in the last 2 months . Monday morning on the way to work bike shut off 3 times . It didn't stall or anything - just suddenly engine shut off . Would not start on kick kicks kicked ... turning off the ignition key and back on immediately - no help (but green neutral lamp turns on ok) . Turning ignition key off/on after a few minutes , starts up alrighty and runs again for half a km ... then again shuts down . Somehow managed to reach . While coming back home same way midday - viola ... no more drama at all .. runs fine now .
Electrical short ? seems like that , no ? But where ?