Why didn't u change the reflector to H4 type? To glow a bulb regulator is used, it does nothing, it just control the volts to 13v and rectifier is used to convert the alternator AC to DC for charging battery.
But Headlight glows on AC. When u see, u'll find yellow color wire connected to the regulator, that is going to the headlight too, that has been grounded inside the regulator/rectifier to regulate the power. Rest of the power dissipate as heat.
If u remove this wire, regulator will have no control on volts going to the headlight, in low rpm nothing will happen, but when u increase the rpm a lot i.e, go beyond the headlight specification the bulb will fuse.

So, u can check how much volts is being regulated using multimeter. It should be 12.5-13v. I dont think regulator can gone bad. If u want to increase light intensity u can do that without replacing the regulator.

You can use the resistor from 470 ohms all the way up to 1k in between regulator & yellow wire. 1k resistance will give higher volts and may blacken the bulb. But u are safe to use up to 680 ohms. But i would recommend try 600 ohms. This will increase your light intensity. Try it!

Edit: Also change all console bulbs to led which runs on AC along with headlight. Also change the back light to led. If u wanna try remove the wire going to the back light and see the increment

I know yellow wire goes to AC supply. And i know rectifier grounds the AC to sort out and regulate.But these are all theory, practically as the regulator gets old then light also decreases slowly. It may be not visible but just use a new rectifier and you will be suddenly surprised. Did you not think that i will not have this much idea about regulator. The yellow wire is output to the Ac circuit of bike.But how can resistor increase the voltage as it will drop the voltage more as it lies in between rectifier and Ac line. It will drop the output as it will resist the flow of current.
And regarding disconnecting the rear bulb, Once my bikes pilot lamp circuit(joy has pilot lamp) wire got broken near tank and the meter light,back light,pilot lamp all stopped working and only headlight glow. Believe me the headlight was very bright.
Regarding HS1 my bike comes with MFR(multi focal reflector) and also parking light. But the new CD DAWN has MFR and HS1 and no pilot lamp so didn't change. And i believe in keeping the stock looks. And my joy will never have the light output as your CD DAWN as the CD dawn was the first model which has better light from hero honda. Our tenant in jajpur road had a CD dawn and i have extensively ridden it. Those had much brighter headlight from my joy. 2001 hero honda have poor headlight than 2004 model.
And i am talking from my experience as when bike ages the rectifier also ages.

Ok , this is what you'll need to mount that lock there ..

Mine is exactly the same. Thanks for the picture.

A resistor can increase because less current will be dissipate and the bulb will receive more power. I haven't tested but i'll test it once i buy resistor. I'm also gone too lazy these days

I also dont have parking light in my bike, but i stick one 1/2w led inside the headlight as a parking light.
But my stock rectifier has not gone bad because i test it. I have also installed a push switch which works as a pass light on high beam. That switch runs a small relay (which is inside my head light assembly). The relay had two inputs both from AC & DC via ignition. And the output is connected to the headlight high beam. Normally when switch is not pushed the headlight runs on AC but when pushed it gets a power from DC and get disconnected from AC.
This pass switch helps me in the morning, form the vehicles coming from the front.

Now in the night time. I tested when the bike is steadily going on 40 kph, I pressed my pass switch to see if there is any increment in the head light intensity, but there was no difference. That means my regulator is giving the right output and the bulb is glowing in its full intensity. This way you can check your regulator and you can also have a pass switch if not already installed (if you need).

How much watt is your stock bulb provided by the company?
Actually the reason why your light intensity is low because your stator is not producing enough amperage. And that can be fulfill by giving more volts to the headlight as stator produces very high volts.

Edit:
Off topic question.
How do u clean your tank?
I usually wash with kerosene & petrol to take all dust out. Then air blow drying it.
What else i can do? brush cant be use
Now i've cyclo carb-cleaner to use.

I dont have any dust sitting down inside the tank. I saw some waste & few drops of water only.

@all
Also check this link http://www.ehow.com/how_7559906_incr...g-acetone.html
Just found while searching through the google found that.

That's alryt , but be careful with that carb-cleaner - it destroys paint, rubber & most plastics on mere contact .

Tried that acetone thing Paul. No great improvement on mileage. May be 1kmpl. But the catch is acetone can degrade plastic, paint and rubber so not good for some carb components and fuel lines. And it also causes cold start problem. Next time, I going to try 2t (1ml or may be 1/2ml per liter of petrol) in my bike and car. Will let you know. btw, I think there's a dedicated thread on these in xbhp itself.

i used to use 'one oil'(i.e. 25ml as per my mechs advice) for every full tank on the CBZ classic way back in 2001 during long rides - used to ride chennai-tirupati or chennai -> collg on blore highway and never had a problem and the mileage always used to hover around the 37 - 40 mark.

The engine rebuild of my Splendor will finally be taken up this week-end. I am inclined towards changing the bore-piston kit, but the mechanic is for reboring + oversize piston. He says that will give more power. How? Perhaps the cubic capacity will increase, however slightly?

He also says either way, the bike should be allowed to idle for a couple of hours immediately after the job is over. I feel it is not necessary and I can immediately start the running-in. Any suggestions?

what's that 'one oil' never heard of it.. Is it a 2T oil? . @Gansan, wait for gurus.. Btw, me too heard the 'left it idling' thing..

Is my friction steel pate and pressure plate is fine?






Also my clutch outer guide of outer collar is not coming out...is that normal?

In which oil for how many hours do i need to keep (for soak) new clutch plates?

This image shows a severely burnt and discolored clutch plate.


An excellent pressure steel plate.


Do you mean the clutch outer's guide which is installed on the main gear shaft is not coming ? Is it rotating freely ?
This one ?

If it is not coming out -There is a washer behind this guide just above the bearing-Try to pry it out using two flat screwdrivers by applying pressure out both sides.
Replace it as it has gone out of shape.It should rotate freely otherwise you will notice hard gearshifts.

Makino clutch plates are pre-soaked but OE clutch plates needs to be soaked in fresh engine oil for at-least an hour before installation.
OE steel pressure plates costs Rs.75/-.(Includes 3 plates.)
Makino Pre-soaked friction clutch plates-Rs.140/-.

I'll change steel plate then will go for OE.

Yes the clutch outer's guide. Its rotating free in its place, vertically it has a play of about 2-3 mm but when try to pull out it stuck! So I didn't try to make it out.

Then i can buy things tomorrow. Which clutch plates did u installed? If Makino, then why soaked? for satisfaction i think!

Edit: Edit: Edit:

My clutch lever is also bit hard than my friends passion plus. When i keep pressing clutch for a minute or if i frequently use it in traffic jams. My fingers starts paining. I check the height of the springs and its perfect as 25.55 mm.

Also is it necessary to use clutch center tool while tightening clutch center nut. I saw that tool on honda unicorn service manual provided by you.

Yes, I soaked just for satisfaction.
If it is spinning fine then its OK,try to get it out if possible-sometimes it sticks and takes a little more force than usual to get it out.
I will complete my post tonight.

@s1d- I have never heard of that brand, but i always mix Iftex system G or 2-3 in 1 Ml to liter and not for increasing mileage but it helps in cleaning the valves, intake system and other system through which it flows.
@paul- the steel pressure plates are fine and the clutch center is also fine. Clutch center will not wear out unless and until engine is run without oil.
No need of removing the clutch bush. These bush need not be replaced. This bush is of very high quality and its function is to make the clutch housing freely rotate on the main gear shaft. The cost of that Bush is Rs.249.
This bush will come out only if equal pressure is applied on both sides. This is very tightly fit and a slight deflection to one side will jam it.
Your clutch is feeling heavy because the plates are worn. Remember in clutch and drum brakes if the controls are feeling heavy then check if the cable is jam. If cable is ok, then the clutch plates and brake shoes are worn.

Always when a wire control brake or clutch feels hard then see that they are worn. After changing the clutch plates if it is heavy then change the cable.

Soaking the plates are necessary and i tell you to use OE plates. Use normal engine oil and soak. After fitting the plates pour the same oil in engine. My suggestion is take a new engine oil bottle and pour it in a wide clean beaker and soak the plates. Now start working on the bike. After half an hour directly pick the plates from oil and fit. And after fitting the case pour the engine oil from beaker into engine.