If u want should I send to you?

@Above_All
My sincere suggestion->Get branded tools because it comes with lifetime warranty and you will have the confidence when you do the work. I wasted a lot of money on cheap Chinese/local tools,when they break they even damage the bolt head and it is PITA to fix it. I broke many sockets and wrenches before getting branded tools and I must say they are expensive for just one thing-Quality.Good things don't come cheap.

You can get a T-handle 1/2" with a 12" or 6" extension like this.

T-handle Rs.210/-
Extension 6" Rs.100/-
Socket (#8-15) Rs.45/- each
Socket (#16-26) Rs.60/- each

Dear Shoeb,
Those tools u specified are available everywhere, but he (Above_all) wants a small in size like this



I have those too from 'Taparia' but u cant use those to open your clutch cover, or a magnet cover bolts.
The circumference of sockets touches the cover and they dont fit on bolt perfectly, hence it damages the top.

Therefore, I bought this, and now its become very easy to open, also its not from china its made by HONITON | PROFESSIONAL TOOLS, it fits on bolt very perfectly and not damage it even if u apply lot of force to open a stuck bolt.

Let me check 1 shop , as last he said check in next week . If it is not available there then i will ask you to send it , if you can .

Shoeb those are heavy tools , very good & one should use them while opening engine nuts or other thing , so head of bolt / nut won't be damaged .
But i need to open the handle bar switches #8 bolt , tool box's #10 nuts ( which are below tank & its not good to remove tank everytime when i do some modification to switches present at that box ) . To remove those bolts the light weight T spanner posted by paul is very good . And that's why i am searching it .

For those jobs I use a fixed socket T wrench( #8 and #10) made by taparia,local available for Rs35/-.

I also went to buy those, but it was for about Rs.65-70, yes they are bigger and more torque can be applied but i went for this small one because of availability of changing the sockets, they are also cheaper then that. Yet more calories is needed in this T-Spanner but in that case I use a ring spanner sometimes to apply more force and that makes things easier to open a stuck bolt.

Recently, I grinned the other side of this spanner so that it can also be use as a L shape.



It takes just a few minutes to do with a grinding machine. The main reason of doing this...is to open a 8 mm bolt on the head inlet pipe.

All in all, I love this one!

Very Good !
Btw,You are using pulsar's handle bar,no? How is it ? Direct fit ? I will be getting one tomorrow if it does not affect the riding posture or if joy's handle bar is not available.

Yes its pulser one. direct fit. For me it does not effect the riding posture. My every friend love it! I feel better handling on this. But in winter seasons u will feel some uncomfortable in your shoulders, and i think its normal it happens because of the cold air. I cant compare with the stock one, because I haven't used it in my life. I have also done 140 km ride on this handle without any problem.
But before u buy, u should have a drilling machine to put a new holes.

I also have pulser vibration reducer of both sides, but i'm not using it because it makes the handle looks more big in length.

The center handle bar u might have seen is a passion's pro one, it has fit with hex (lunky) bolts with a cap on top.

@Paul
Drill Holes ? For what ?
For mounting accelerator and switch assembly ?

Are you referring to the handle bar clamp cover ?

Yes.

This one...

Some questions:
1)Hearing a thud sound when shifting from 1st to 2nd.All other shift real smooth.Why is it so?Tried quick shifting and bike jumps when shifting from 1 to 2!
2)When to replace/clean air filter?(My mech thinks,if not broken dont fix it,he rides the bike,gets the defects,correct it,give back to me)
3)Bike run 18k km.Planning to use FS,SS engine oil.Is it ok?Which one?
4)Any way to improve performance when going through potholes.Gas charged shocks?
5)What kind of mileage can I expect from my bike.(10 years old,rarely ripping it)Getting 50+ I think!

paul nice work there , is you done that ? or from some workshop ? if workshop then how much costed ?

Replies in bold.

I've a grinding wheel connected to a 1 HP grinding machine....so it just takes a few minutes to me
Done myself!

Servicing the Splendor+ drum brakes .

Some of you may be sad that our bikes doesn't have a modern disc-brake , but I feel that there is a reason why HeroHonda didn't provide one . On this bike series they have kept only two criteria foremost in the design - simplicity and reliability, qualities that made it India's only million-seller bike throughout it's production run. The thing had to be serviceable in the most rudimentary rural place and not fail easily despite a long period of utter neglect . Disc brakes have a common point-of-failure - loss of hydraulic seal or pressure (they depend critically on a sealed liquid hydraulic linkage) and needs timely attention . Drum brakes on the other hand are so simple mechanical devices that there is almost nothing in it that can fail as easily, are easy to repair & maintain & adjust with simple tools ( the bike's tool-kit is sufficient, seriously! ) .

But despite living through all odds , drum brakes do need timely inspection & simple-service to keep them reliable and the bite sharp . If you do it at least once a year, you'll find the brakes quite adequate for the bike and not miss a disc . I usually get this done once in six months , before & after monsoons by my local mechanic , but this time no-one was around this weekend owing to Iid + Lakhsmi-Puja so I went for it myself and took some pics along the way . Maybe some of you can benefit from my faltu effort, so what the heck - I just posted it here .
Note - this is not for the experts , just clumsy amateurs like me here only, so I'll try to keep things as simple and foolproof as I can . Should you try it , do not fear - you'll not make half the mistakes that I did .

Firstly you have to take out the wheels, obviously . Start at the front .



Undo the nut that keeps the brake rod and keep it aside along with the thimble that it goes into on the brake arm (which shall also pop off at the same time usually) .



The way to do this easy is to press the brake arm inward with thumb while you just screw the nut off .



Press in a flat screwdriver in this hole to depress the tab in there ...



... and the speedo cable just yanks off .



Now you need to undo the axle nut . ( forgive hazy pics, I was working alone with tool in one hand and camera in other ) .



Just hold the bolt-head on the other(opposite) side of the wheel like this with # 17 spanner ...




.. and undo it with a number 19 . Easy peasy .



Tap gently on this with something ...



and pull out the axle rod from the other end . It just pulls out straight with a bit of wiggling , no sweat .



Grab & hold this part while the wheel falls and rolls out .



You can as well as separate it from the wheel now .. just pulls out, like so ...



Support the front forks of the bike on something ingenious ... and move to the rear wheel now .



You'll see that it has kind of a stay rod at the bottom of the brake drum on the right side, comes out with a rusty number 12 . Keep the nut and rubber & metal washers aside .



Now hold this nut on the chain-cover side with a number 17 ...



and undo this one on the opposite side (wiggly space between wheel and silencer) with a number 19 .



Support the wheel a bit underneath like so ..



tap on the screw(now exposed) on the right like before , and pull out this bugger on the left (same way as the front wheel) . The rear wheel shall fall off .



This thingy(bottom left) shall fall off too , it's a spacer , goes in between rear wheel and swing-arm on the right . Keep it aside .



It's a trick to wiggle and roll out the rear wheel , which has fallen off now
but do hold the brake assembly that tries to fall off by itself like this ..



then simply take it out , as with front wheel .



inspect both brake drums one by one ...



see that grit in there ? ... that is brake dust and it impedes brake bite ...



gently wipe off with a shop-rag , don't inhale the dust - asbestos brake dust is a known carcinogen (which is why they are moving to non-asbestos brake pads).



cut a small piece of medium-fine sand-paper , I had a 400-grit ..



and sand down around the insides of both the drums clean , 4-5 passes - that's it .



Now clean inside both drums again with vim or pril dish-wash and a scotch-brite pad . (I have run out of carb-cleaner else you can use that too) .
Wipe off with clean dry cloth , rest both wheels in a corner wall to dry naturally .



Lets do the brake plates & pads next . With a permanent-marker pen ...



number each brake pad like this ...



and it's corresponding position on the brake-plate edge like this ...



This is because brake shoes get set in a position and if you swap them they don't like it .. ok ?

Now fold up the brake shoes ....



together like this , and just yank 'em off the brake-plate - simple enough ?



Remember the way the two springs fasten them together goes , it differs on front and rear brakes .



turn the brake plates over to undo the brake arms , but before you do that notice that the arms on each brake plate has a dot mark on it aligned with a dot mark on the brake cam's shaft . On mine the front wheels dot was opposite the axle and rear towards the axle . Better to mark a index line with marker-pen between the arm and shaft . Note that later on the cam goes into the hole in this direction only . Although there is no problem even if it's reversed , only the brake-wear indicator washer won't indicate correctly , baas .



they need two number 10 spanners working in opposite directions on this nut-bolt like this .. remove the bolt , then the brake arm .



It then slips out with a bit of wiggling . May need a little pry with a screwdriver .



The front brake arm has also this spring tensioning it , remove it before you pry the brake arm . It's not hard to bend it off (or on again later) the arm with finger only .



Similarly, wiggle out the brake-wear indicator washer . Notice the one single wider groove in the cam teeth , corresponding with one wider tooth on that washer . It slips out and slips in later in this position only . Got that ? Yeah !



Pry out this felt washer with a flat screwdriver .



On the other side of plate , slip out this part - it's the brake cam .



Additionally inside the front brake plate , this blue plastic speedo-gear...



and 2 thin steel shims shall come out , for cleaning and regrease .



Now clean up the parts . Nothing fancy ,gentle brushing with kerosene soaked toothbrush ..



Here,



And there, ..... (axle rod hole)



And there ... (brake cam hole)



and a wipe off with clean cloth . And that's it ..



Now lets move to the business end of things - brake shoes . Wash your hands, no oiliness or grease should come in contact with the brake pads .
Clean hands are a good opportunity for my favourite beverage - sweet & strong ctc tea - the best of Assam .



Snip off a piece of coarse sandpaper ,



I had this 60-grit , anything upto 100 is ok .



and use it to gently rub the glaze off the pads on each shoe . Again ,be careful not to inhale any of the dust .



That's all done on the shoe on the right >



Now lets assemble the front brake , which is a bit more work than the rear .. so you'll be able to do the other one just fine by yourself .



First the greasy work ,
clean the old grease on the speedo worm-gear inside there ..




like this ...



Dab some fresh grease on it ..



Put some grease on these two thin shims , like so ..



And just slip them in there ..



Grease the speedo gear well all around ..



and slip it in too , teeth-side down ..



A bit of grease around the inside lip of this large rubber oil-seal kinda ..



Inside the brake-cam hole ..



on the middle of the brake cam ..



On the other side of the brake cam .. (this is after you put the cam in)



Seat the felt washer on there with grease too . (this is also after you put the cam in)



And sit the brake cam into the hole . See that excess grease oozing out of the base there ? Yeah , wipe it off pronto .
( excess grease/lubricant has no place inside a brake assembly , after assembling , none should be visible - if you can see it , it's too much - wipe it off well)

Instead, put a very little touch of grease on the cam's ledge where the brake shoe ends sit (see wear marks on it) . Turn the cam to the direction it was , remember those two dots ?



And a similarly tiny touch of grease on this post , See those wear marks on it ? Yeah , there .



Fit the brake-wear indicator washer arm on other end of cam on the outside of the plate, remembering the wider groove and teeth , it goes in that one way only .

Fit the brake arm there too , remembering the two alignment dots . Don't worry , if it's a bit off after you fit the wheel in, you can always loosen those two number 10 nuts and wiggle it around to slip into desired position on the outside brake cam teeth, without taking it fully out.

Wash your hands well . Wipe dry .
Mate the brake shoes with the springs and position them like this on the brake plate . Then just press them down from the edge into position .



This is the dirty rear brake plate - it is much simpler to do than the other one (no speedo stuff recess) ....



Baas , the service is done !

Fit the assembled brake plate units into the wheels hubs and roll em in to position and push in the axles as they were . That's it . It helps if you can get someone to keep the wheels lifted in position a bit while you wiggle the axle in . If you keep the axle well greased like me , you can do all by yourself - it slips in that easy .

Do not forget to tighten the axle nuts after you fit the wheels .

If you can get someone to stomp on the brake pedal / handle-lever and hold it like that while you tighten the axle nut ,your brakes shall become centered and perform much much better .

I have deliberately left out some pics and instructions since that was common between the two wheels and would be just repetitive, and tried to cover the important parts only . So if you have any doubts or get stuck, ask . I shall try to keep this post updated from time to time with more info, and correct things I may have missed now .

Other than brakes this procedure is useful to inspect the wheel/sprocket bearings or anything else related to the wheels , so may come in handy some rainy day .