Very Neat work Paul !!!
Don't worry powering it using AC and No need to add a rectifier diode and capacitor. Instead jump a wire from the ignition switch and use it to light it up.
Use a DMM to find out which wire gets power which the key is turned ON and keep the wiring Stock. This way the leds will last longer.

@ Shoeb
I think u didn't read up properly. The Head light beam indicator is used to run in ac along with headlight u know that. Then how do we change to led and give a power from battery?? Its not possible. I u give power from battery. It will glow continuous even when u are at low beam. So only that led glow on AC to DC conversion. And rest all are connected with ignition ON/OFF, added a extra switch also to turn it off in the morning.
So when u connect a led direct to ac it will flicker a lot even at high rpm, and the led will not last nor it will look good. So a led want a constant dc power, therefore to stop a waves on the ac current capacitor is required. Which will make the current constant. Added a diode before capacitor to convert it to dc. These are very cheap.
Now it glow constantly & didn't flicker.

Why does my splendor do not start when choke is ON in cold mornings?When choke is off and I give little throttle with kick,it starts.I need to rev a little to keep bike alive,after engine gets hot,its fine.Problem with idle speed?
Why is the indicator's buzzing sound off,light is on,but not blinking?Low battery(horn is working)?

Splendor's do not require choke. If you give choke more fuel is entering and thus is not starting. Giving a little throttle is ok, and nothing to worry. If your splendor is requiring choke then you have to worry.
Check any of the indicator bulbs have fused. If any one bulb is fused the indicators will not blink and will remain on. If all bulbs are working but not blinking, then check the indicator relay besides the battery compartment and check with a new one. Most probably the relay would have gone.

You are correct,I forgot about the high beam indicator.
High beam indicator stock bulb consumes about 3.7 watts and IMO it is better if we don't touch it ,just like you did with indicator and neutral bulbs.
I know that you are using a diode and capacitor to smoothen the output but many of us would want to have things simpler and reliable.

Why to add a switch when even 20 LEDs use 1.6 watts ? It wont drain the battery even if it is used during day and switches will look ugly and are also prone to water damage (& I wash my bike almost every other day.)

Please don't think that I am pointing out mistakes but this way we get to improve it by sharing ideas,nahi ?

Yeah, of course we are here to shares ideas & to learn.

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Well then that's good.

IMHO, it does not make any significant difference by replacing high beam indicator with LED just to save 1.7 watts. All we want is flicker free and bright illumination of the speedometer and fuel gauge.
You have done a very neat job,no doubt about that.

Yes flicker free! Thats why i change the high beam too to get bright light. not to save 1.7w
Just to have a nice look. Because every light in my meter was glowing bright and that was the only one sucks looking dull. So I thought why not to change that too, to make it perfect all the way nice!

Edit:
Did u opened your clutch assembly? If yes, have u checked the height of springs with micro millimeter or caliper? If yes let me know the results.

Good idea indeed . I am not for conversion circuits because it adds additional points of failure in the circuit and consumes/wastes power , while we are trying to cut down on power consumption . I am also not for rewinding+larger battery etc because again the source of all energy on a bike is the engine and these shall certainly add load on it . I also do not want more light , so using less number of LEDs to produce just enough illumination as is needed is ok .

The only light now whose low brightness worries me on the Splendor is the red back-light , not the brake light , the one that lights up along-with any of the headlamp bulbs and stays on . It's really dim and is not quite visible by cars & trucks creeping up behind me at speed at night . I have to apply mild pressure on brake to activate the bright brake light to alert such vehicles when I detect them on my mirrors . Gotta do something about this too .

Check the tiny black box inside the right side side panel , it's the blinker(it should be making a click-click noise when any of the turn signals are activated) . Check if any of the turn-signal lamp has fused bulb . Check if the buzzer itself is short . And no , your Splendor's tuning is good - this is it's usual behavior . All bikes have some or other attitude .

Yes , I have also noticed that the Splendor doesn't like to be choked , even on cold mornings . A little throttle is what I use everyday now . Whereas all my Yamahas insisted on getting choke in cold mornings and riding few kms with choke on untill warmed up .

My preference for LEDs is not only because of lower power consumption , but the fact that it is a solid state device - much more reliable and robust to shock & vibrations and has longer life , produces less heat etc advantages over incandescent filament lamps . So I want to use LEDs whereever possible , preferably with as little AC-DC or voltage etc conversion as I can get away with . Next project .

@ Paul
Most probably I will open it this Saturday,had planned to open it on Diwali but couldn't do it because I was having fever then.
Clutch slip is so evident and my bike hardly crosses 60kmph even in fourth gear,FE is ~55. I will do a full inspection and let you all know what actually happened with the springs.
Why do you want to die ?

EDIT:
Pinaki ji ,these bulbs which we have on our bikes are very robust and reliable.
I never had to replace any of the bulbs except the blinker bulbs which I changed to amber along with transparent blinker cover.
Remember the LED array I made for my bike ? Some of the LED's failed after almost 2.5 years due to water ingress inside the tail lamp assembly from a small crack.I replaced it with the old stock incandescent and I immediately noticed the effect on headlight's intensity.
Next Job is to make a powerful 5watt/1watt,Bi-Led Setup for Brake/tail light to get back my headlight's brightness which I was enjoying all this while. Do it and see the difference in HL output for yourself.

Exactly what I wanted to say.

Please , take pics and post the details brothers ; I am picking up all the good ideas how to go about it .... I am not much experienced in electronics work like you guys , so I'll just follow what you all suggest and do when I get a free weekend next .

re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

I have a 10 year old splendor. Looks like it's time to change my front Tyre. Any suggestions from members would be extremely helpful & welcome

Sent from my rotary phone

Standard is 2.75x18 MRF Nylo-grip RIB / Nylorib or Zapper FS . Do buy a new MRF branded 2.75x18 tube and rim-tape along-with it too .
I am using 2.5x18 Nylorib to gain lighter steering for the cost of little less shock absorption .

I am going to wait for this one now .

I am using this 2.75X 18 on front MRF Tyres
and this as rear tyre 3.0x18.MRF Tyres
The front tyre will feel little heavy but this setup(2.75x18 on fron front and 3.0x18 in rear) provides good stability and braking.

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