Dear Friends ..This is the carbeurator of my yamaha fazer 2004 model>>I want to clean this ..please help me guys to dismantle this..
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@ Bike Guru (Sibun)
Some people say that u can shift gears without using clutch but some are against of it and says u should use clutch.
I want to know if this really doesn't create any problem? Do u DE-accelerate while shifting gears??
I've the habit of using clutch every time, right from the day i got my bike.

@ Bike Guru (Sibun)Few years ago that was leaking therefore opened it to change. This time I opened at the time of De-carbonize.Anyway,I want to use a single gear lever, i mean just a front one, i use very often a back one for shifting gears. So wanted to change, can u tell me for which bike i should go for? I want to go for NON-OE brand.I'll keep this lever in a safe place, so that, if ever i want i can switch back to the factory one.Edit: Some people say that u can shift gears without using clutch but some are against of it and says u should use clutch.I want to know if this really doesn't create any problem? Do u DE-accelerate while shifting gears?? I've the habit of using clutch every time, right from the day i got my bike.

Finally did the DIY carburetor cleaning ..at first removed the accelerator cable...then loosened the small screws which connects both ends of the carburetor (top)..carefully pulled out the entire set...the removed the bottom bowl..it was filled with dirty fuel....cleaned the bowl using carb spray...then removed the jets cleaned by inserting copper wire through the hole both main jet and pilot jet....sprayed carb cleaner...i was not confident enough to remove the top..so fitted back.. now am getting good throttle response..thanks friend for the support

@ Paul
Here you are - excuse the poor quality , I seem to have misplaced my tripod-to-camera attachment ryt now .



Yes , the bike is very simple but excellent design . Even mechanics love to work on Splendors . Easy to work on by oneself too as I am learning now . I have comparatively much much difficult experience on my friend's wind-125 , horrible parts availability , crude parts and design and all non-standard(japanese industrial sized) nuts and fasteners .
Yes , many have tried and failed against this 97cc tiddler .. even Honda's new strong competition ( Dream Yuga , is better in most aspects like acceleration & torque etc ) is not selling well here against this age old model yet . Funny thing is that this bike's design & puny engine is taken from the famous Honda-CUB/Honda Trail-90 & Trail-110 , the original Honda designed bike that makes them the world leader today - and Honda gave it away to Hero Cycles here once for royalty .
Yes , I told you that too , this float has no mechanism for adjustment - contrary to my Crux's and the Wind-125's which I also service . In place where they have a metal tang which can be bend to adjust the float height , this Keihin's float has a a solidly affixed plastic tang - preset at factory (which is obvious from those blue stencil marks on it) . This is an example of an adjustable float tang , that metallic thingy bend up or down makes the float height higher or lower (and consequently the fuel level also) inside the float bowl .



And you can see the white plastic tang in the middle of our carb's float there - and because the body metal & hinge pin posts are relatively soft aluminum and the float hinge pins is hard steel - I knew it has to be replaced if damaged or scored so I used a wooden toothpick to push it out gently ...

Yeah - I needum unicorn manual - for both my Cbz-X and brother-in-laws new unicorn .

Good , shall try it - am in the lookout for alternative to Castrol GL4 gear oil - it's costing Rs 120 for 500ml now .

Your splendor came with helmet lock ? Where is that ? Does it have a key-lock just like the passion ?
If possible,please scan it and upload it here or take pictures.

I still remember that some of the two strokers needed a precise adjustment of the float for the AFR to be correct as they were more prone to this float height problem.
Old technology was great,one has to learn how to make things simple yet doing the same job as that of sophisticated technology and one great example is splendor series.

@sibun
Thanks for the info.

Sp get one and it is a direct fit. What Sp?

Regarding clutchless shifting,practice makes it perfect. How-ever up shift can be done clutch less, never attempt to down shift without using clutch.
For using clutch less shift, follow the procedure:-
1. Lets take you are riding at 2nd gear. Touch the gear lever to shift to 3rd but do not apply pressure.
2. As your engines catches speed, quickly close the throttle and apply slight pressure.
3. your gear will shift.
But take caution not to shift while giving accelerator and also never downshift without clutch. Also while shifting clutch less apply less pressure on gear lever than while doing with clutch. For your surprise clutch less shifting will feel more smoother than clutch shifting if done right..

I think i'm fine with using clutch every time. btw, how much fuel it gonna save.

I apply normal pressure, but i notice 1 or 2 times, almost nhi, that after shifting gear say 3rd to 4th bike found in neutral?? Why so? I think that is because of too much less pressure right??

Also, my friend reported that he have kick stucking problem in his passion plus, that happens 2-3 times a day. Why so? How can i fix that? He already had new clutch plates.
I'm gonna de-carbonize his bike soon. Head packing is leaking.

I think i'm fine with using clutch every time. btw, how much fuel it gonna save.

I apply normal pressure, but i notice 1 or 2 times, almost nhi, that after shifting gear say 3rd to 4th bike found in neutral?? Why so? I think that is because of too much less pressure right??

Also, my friend reported that he have kick stucking problem in his passion plus, that happens 2-3 times a day. Why so? How can i fix that? He already had new clutch plates.
I'm gonna de-carbonize his bike soon. Head packing is leaking.

By kick getting stuck, what do you mean. Please be more clear as to how and what is happening.

Standard is 2.75x18 MRF Nylo-grip RIB / Nylorib or Zapper FS . Do buy a new MRF branded 2.75x18 tube and rim-tape along-with it too .
I am using 2.5x18 Nylorib to gain lighter steering for the cost of little less shock absorption .

I am going to wait for this one now .

I am using this 2.75X 18 on front MRF Tyres
and this as rear tyre 3.0x18.MRF Tyres
The front tyre will feel little heavy but this setup(2.75x18 on fron front and 3.0x18 in rear) provides good stability and braking.

Shoeb> I'm also using a 3.0-18 on my rear tyre.it's a Michelin sirac street.

Pinaki> I got a new tube free when I purchased my rear tyre.but I shall but one if they don't provide it free.btw what is rim tape.hearing about it for the first time.

Thanks to both for responding to my request. :thumbup:

Sent from my rotary phone

Yes, it is the tape that you apply inside of rim. It is applied in spoke wheels and not alloy wheels. I usually use tapes made of cut pieces of old tube rather than cotton tapes.The old tube is cut in thin strips and is made slightly shorter than dia of the wheel and then both ends are pasted and then put over the spokes in rim. Suitable hole is made for valve to pass.

Actually, there is a saying more simple the thing more better it is. The same thing applies to splendor series or we can say CD series. The simpler the mechanism, the more robust it is.
By the way who is that idiot who is decreasing the rating of thread. Presently i think this is the most technical thread, but the rating is low. Some threads are nothing but only talking about day to day incidents with bike but still getting 5 stars.
More over today i am going to my friends shop. Let me see if he can give me the catalogue on pen drives.
More over i am documenting a minor overhaul of front brake calipers. Expect a DIY thread soon.

BTW,I was wondering if we can put few packets of Silica gel(a desiccant) in alloy wheels to absorb moisture ?


Dear,this is the case with all hero threads. As long as we continue to benefit by sharing knowledge and experience we need not worry.
I will be the happiest person if you get me the catalogs. Waiting for the DIY,post a link to the pictures(Picasa album) here.

Today I found that my bike key removable when it is running the engine or neutral light on. My question/doubt, Is it possible to unlock the bike with any key/metal object when the bike is in public parking lot ? Other 2 lock such as seat lock and the plastic locker lock don't have this problem....From those 2 locks key can't be remove other than the removable postion.

Is there anyway to fix this problem without much invest ?

here is picture, neutral on and I can remove the key easily.

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i need it pls upload it to some file sharing site n pm me the link.