What is the benefit of adding 2t oil in petrol tank..?

lol which brand did u got? Is that supply to OE?

i never had any problems using 25ml/10litres of fuel (only used this while on long rides i.e. 40+km stretches like going to collg and on highway rides). the mech told me the following 'advantages':
1. Tank rust is kept at bay
2. There is better lubrication/cooling of the combustion chamber at high speeds, reduces friction

my cbz always returned 37+ kmpl, with its amazing pickup all thru its 30k running until i sold it off (regret this decision, because i never enjoyed the same comfort. feel and satisfaction of riding a cbz - owning a cbz prior to when the pulsar hit the markets was when people identified you with the cbz )

Do you use this regularly?

Now, I request suggestions or comments on the following regarding DIY etc.
1.) Its been over 2500km after the oil change. so, was wondering if I should use the same stock oil from HH or use a Castrol gtx, Motul 20w40 or ELF. Help would be much appreciated.
2.) I tried to tune the carburetor for the first time. according to instructions by Sibun's post in page 12 of this thread.
I figured out the fuel and idling screw as in the picture below.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]87598[/ATTACH]
and, followed the instructions. But, the air screw was already fully tightened.
Tried loosening it slowly, but, never found any increase in RPM. Didnt change the idle screw till now.
All this was done with the headlight ON, would that have been the reason?

3.) While trying to tune the carburetor, I observed that, when the bike was running on idling, if Choke was engaged, the bike stopped. It happened everytime. So, is the Air Fuel ratio already rich?
I've inspected the sparkplug as well. It had a thin deposit of Black sooty substance. the threads were oily. electrodes were also covered in black. So, more chances of the AFR being rich????

Now, I request suggestions or comments on the following regarding DIY etc.
1.) Its been over 2500km after the oil change. so, was wondering if I should use the same stock oil from HH or use a Castrol gtx, Motul 20w40 or ELF. Help would be much appreciated.
Yes change it. Change it to either Shell Advance AX7 10w40 or Gulf full synth 10w30, its winter now so both are best.

2.) I tried to tune the carburetor for the first time. according to instructions by Sibun's post in page 12 of this thread.
I figured out the fuel and idling screw as in the picture below.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]87598[/ATTACH]and, followed the instructions. But, the air screw was already fully tightened.
Tried loosening it slowly, but, never found any increase in RPM. Didnt change the idle screw till now.
All this was done with the headlight ON, would that have been the reason?
No that is not an air screw. Air screw is on the other side. Open your utility box. You'll see a hole on to the left where lock engage. Look through that hole, u'll find it.

I've inspected the sparkplug as well. It had a thin deposit of Black sooty substance. the threads were oily. electrodes were also covered in black. So, more chances of the AFR being rich????
Actually, oil in the threads indicates that engine oil is getting to the combustion chamber. Hence your engine is burning oil. To inspect this, drag your finger to the exhaust tip, if your finger gets black sooty wet that means engine is smoking.
Did u ever saw white smoke or black smoke coming out of your exhaust??
Probably in the morning when u start the bike?
and oil level getting down and black too early?
As per your description your bike has ran only 9k so your bore is fine. So, if your bike is white smoking then changing the valve oil seals will do your job. But first let us know if smoke is really visible??

@Paul
I think damaged air screw o-ring will make the AFR lean and not rich.

I got a OE cable,REMSON was printed on the cable casing. My old cable was also made by Remson and it did not have any sign of wear even after 8 years,kept it as a spare.

Hi everyone .
Welcome to Xbhp and you can see we all are a crazy community here. So welcome and we assure you we will make you crazy about your bike.
I would like to thank everyone on this thread for their amazing contribution to this OT.
Pinaki, Sibun, Sachin1111, shoeb2015 for their DIY posts. I've been making note of every DIY.

I ride a 2005 splendor+.

I started using it since summer of 2009. I didnt take much care of the bike ever since then. I would do the oil change myself. I would get the brake shoes replaced at a local mechanic. I never gave it a proper servicing in almost 2 years. Then, I never respected it.
She finally had a valve failure 10 months ago. The Engine demanded a complete overhaul. Piston and Cylinder block were replaced. A few bearing were replaced.

Since then, I have become a more gentle rider. For the first two months I maintained a speed limit of 40-45. Never revved it hard. I treated it like a new machine.
It returned atleast 60kpml. Now, It has done 9000 kms after the overhaul and does give me the same mileage in city traffic. Now, I respect it.
One amazingly reliable and trustworthy machine.

Now, I request suggestions or comments on the following regarding DIY etc.
1.) Its been over 2500km after the oil change. so, was wondering if I should use the same stock oil from HH or use a Castrol gtx, Motul 20w40 or ELF. Help would be much appreciated.
Never use 2.5k in mineral oil that too in a hero honda. You can use it for 2.5k on boxer and caliber as those have paper filter for oil but not in Hero honda. Find Shell 10W 40 semi synthetic and use.
2.) I tried to tune the carburetor for the first time. according to instructions by Sibun's post in page 12 of this thread.
I figured out the fuel and idling screw as in the picture below.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]87598[/ATTACH]
and, followed the instructions. But, the air screw was already fully tightened.
Tried loosening it slowly, but, never found any increase in RPM. Didnt change the idle screw till now.
All this was done with the headlight ON, would that have been the reason?

That is not the air screw. It is the choke mounting screw and fully tighten it. Do not tune in idle but by raising Rpm through idling screw because tuning by idle is for experts and you cannot do it. Always tune by raising rpm.Tuning by idle is quite complex and i learnt to do it after 2 years of tuning.

3.) While trying to tune the carburetor, I observed that, when the bike was running on idling, if Choke was engaged, the bike stopped. It happened everytime. So, is the Air Fuel ratio already rich?

No, a splendor will always turn off in idle on choke.

I've inspected the sparkplug as well. It had a thin deposit of Black sooty substance. the threads were oily. electrodes were also covered in black. So, more chances of the AFR being rich????

The mixture is rich and the threads had oil because of unburnt mixture. But before fiddling with air screw clean the air filter and after cleaning run for 200 km before adjusting. Change the spark plug to champion PRZ7HC.

You can use any oil in the xxw40 (xx=10 or 20) - the castrol gtx is a car engine oil so avoid it (there is a lot of controversy on this topic ) stick to a regular motorcycle oil from elf,shell,veedol,motul etc..
the one marked air screw is not the air screw (its probably the screw that holds the choke ) - thats the reason it was tight
the bike will shut off if the choke is pulled during running - this is normal for every bike.
from your description of the plug, looks like a bit rich (and hopefully doesnt drink oil) - while changing oil did you notice how much oil was drained ? or any smoke from the exhaust ?
and the part you have circled is the air suction valve to help with cleaner exhaust emissions.

@mantenarajiv
First of all,Welcome to xbhp.

1. Don't use a 10w30 oil for more than 1500-1800 kms.
2.Use Motul 3000 4T 20W40,it is one of the best oil which suits the climate of Hyderabad.
3.From how long are you running with fully tight air screw ?
FYI,Air screw can be accessed from the utility box by removing a small rubber grommet. What you marked in my picture holds the choke lever.

Check if there is heavy carbon deposit on the silencer tip.

Always clean the Air filter before tuning the carburetor and make sure the engine is sufficiently hot(Cleaning the carburetor before tuning is advised). Check the air screw for any carbon deposit and o-ring for any cracks.

Clean everything and try adjusting the air screw.

Where do you stay in Hyderabad ?
Would you mind sharing your and your bike's history ? Some pictures,kms on the odo etc................