Thank you for the unicorn service manual shoeb. It was the first time I looked into a service manual.. Thanks a lot. Btw, manual asks to use various types of grease, which I'm pretty sure are unavailable here.. So what to do? Any alternatives?

Only molybednum grease is not available,Silicon grease is available at any reputed multi-brand 4 wheeler parts shop.
Multi-purpose grease is AP-3 grease which is easily available,wherever it says assembly lube- use SAE 90 gear oil,works just fine.

Here is a link to CD 100(Sleek) manual which unfortunately is in Spanish but specification and pictures are in English.
HONDA CD100 TALLER.pdf

Some of the other manuals,catalogs,pricelists that I have-

Clutch Plate Replacement Procedure

Tools needed For this job


Special Tools
1.Clutch and rotor center nut tool.

2.Clutch holder (Optional)

Parts Needed.
1.Clutch plates.(Soak it overnight in fresh engine oil)
2.Clutch cover gasket.
3.Filter mesh.

Procedure:
Newer models do not require the removal of muffler and foot rest assembly,directly skip to 8.

1.Drain the engine oil,tilt the bike to drain remaining oil.
2.Remove the Kick lever #10 bolt and gently pry the lever out.

3.Remove the RH side panel.
4.Remove the clutch cable by loosening the adjuster nuts and pushing it to release the cable end.

4.Remove the RH pillion foot rest assembly by unbolting #12 bolt


and also remove this lower bolt #17.

5.Remove both the Exhaust inlet pipe stud #10 nuts using a T-spanner.

6. Now push the inlet side down whilst pulling the muffler end up,when it gets out of the front frame- pull the exhaust out.

7.Remove/loosen the RH rider's foot rest #17 bolts,use a suitable socket wrench with a pipe to get more leverage.


8.Now it should look like this,the main reason for removing other parts was to get easy access to the clutch cover.

8.Remove all the 8 Clutch cover bolts using a #8 T-spanner.

Note-3 out of 8 bolts are of different lengths so keep a track of it .
Loosen the bolts in a loosen it in a criss-cross fashion to prevent the cover from warping.

9.Tap the sides of the cover using a rubber mallet gently,if the cover is not coming off then hit the only on the tabs provided on the edges of the cover gently.
Keep a bowl or newspaper under it because there will be some oil left in the engine.

This is how it should look.

8.Use a good quality screwdriver too loosen this screws,if it does not come out -Tap the screws several times using the blunt end of T-spanner OR Use a Impact screw driver to loosen it.

9.Using a flat screw driver,pry the cover out.

10.Remove the rotor nut using the special tool.

Remove the nut and washer and pull the rotor/centrifugal filter.


11.Find a way to hold the crank from spinning,I took a soft metal washer wrapped in a cloth and put it between the GPT and clutch gear to prevent it from spinning.
Remove all the 4 #10 pressure plate bolts,loosen the bolts in a criss-cross fashion to prevent warpage.


12.Now remove the two bolts holding the clutch oil bath.


13.The correct procedure to remove the clutch center bolt is to use a clutch holder but this being aimed at an average DIY'er,we will remove it without the holder.
Engage the fourth gear and rear brakes,and remove the center nut.


Will continue later.

Nice work brother .

About air-suction valve , this is how it is on my Splendor+ july 2010 model -

Under the seat and just over the engine-gearbox



It takes in air on the other side from the bike's air-filter ,



that thin brown tube at the front feeds into the engine's intake manifold



And the thick-fabric covered metal tube feeds into the engine exhaust port



Here ,



Now that I peeked under there to take pics , I notice some oil around that tube where it mates with the exhaust port . Is that a problem guys ??

Camera is a very old Nikon coolpix 3200, 3 megapixels only but made in Japan , not China . White balance is set to auto ... which doesn't detect the light type correctly half the time .
No idea about tool-bag , but I think the OE tool-kit that comes with the bike is also available as spare from HeroHonda .

Here it is fitted on just above the Saree-guard , opens with same key as the bike and that steel lock-rod doesn't go all the way out when open . I use it to hook a huge load of shopping bags and lock it , so it's quite very sturdy thingy .



Yah , it's a seldom visible part , but it's very important for a spoke wheel .

Well , the correct stuff for that job is french-chalk (available at building-materials and hardware shops) . Dust the rim and inside the tyre generously with it before fitting . It will absorb moisture and prevent the tube rubber from getting sticky too .

I think it is possible to fix that helmet lock because my splendor's carrier has a hole just there but Is it available separately or do I need to get the entire lock kit ?

That air suction valve is used to inject fresh air into into exhaust manifold to oxidize any un-burnt Carbon monoixde.
Your Air Suction Valve is not made by Ucal Mikuni ?

Pull that rubber hose going to the air suction valve and check if the inside is covered with oil . Most probably it is the oil from over oiled filter or oil from PCV via airbox . Nothing to worry.

re: Hero Moto Splendor/Joy/CD-Dawn/Passion

Very worrying mileage from my splendor after the latest service.gives me barely 30kms to the litre. Looks like the mechanics have set the fuel mixture too pure or something. Any thoughts guys?

Sent from my rotary phone

How many times did you check your FE ? One time my splendor returned just 25kms per liter,later the reason was found to be adulterated fuel.

If you had filled petrol before giving it to service and later calculated the FE then did you account for the petrol used for cleaning filters chain etc from your tank ?

What work did the do on your bike as part of the service ? Any parts changed ? Did they touch the carburetor ? How is the bike idling ? Any backfire or sluggishness in acceleration ? How many kms on the odo ? Oil changed ,filter and chain clean ? Change to a reputed petrol pump and check the mileage.

@ shoeb - I'll try to get you a pic of the helmet lock mount with the lock removed soon , so you know what you need to fix that . I think you can buy it separately - but with a separate key ofcourse .
I dunno , how to know who made that valve ? any markings ?
I didn't mean the rubber tubes , see the last pic where the stainless metal tube goes into the engine head , near the exhaust port - it seems to be oily on that joint . Maybe a gasket there kaput ? It's difficult to check and take pics under the bike there , so I never noticed .

Yes there are markings.

No no,what I mean to say is -Check the rubber tube if it is carrying oil to the exhaust port. There is no other way oil can go there except via air suction valve.
Other possibility - It may be un-burnt AF mixture which is attracting dust.First rule out the possibility of oil from ASV.


Not related to the leaking air injector port, just my suggestion :-

How many kms on the odo Pinaki ji ? If it is anywhere near 15,000 get the head ,piston crown decarbonized and valves polished.
If possible change the exhaust to steel type but before this please let us know what size of jets your carburetor came from factory.
Just do the above things on a weekend and trust me you will just love the smoothness.
If you want I will find a bakra and take pictures of de-carbonization procedure.

It needs a free weekend and some basic tools.
Parts-
1.Head gasket Rs.110.
2.Head-bore o-ring kit Rs.44

Consumables-
1.Valve grinding compound/paste Rs.55/-

Special tools required for more a than perfect job.
1.Valve compressor tool Rs.190/-
2.Feeler gauge to adjust the valves after valve polishing.
3.Valve lapping tool (wooden handle with suction cup) OR an ordinary fuel tube can also be used.

Going by the DIY posts of yours,I am more than sure you will do a better job when compared to us.

@shoeb- That lock is available separate and cost Rs.95 from OE parts. You will get a separate key like your ignition key for it.

The air suction valve on pinakiji bike is Ucal mikuni, it will be written on the opposite side of the photo.
My bike has a keihin unit, but i have not checked my extreme air suction valve yet.
Pinakiji splendor will be having #38 slow jet, #105 main jet and B00C needle jet.
Carb tuning is an art and very few mechanics can do it properly. My mechanic is one who does carb tuning exceptionally well and i learnt from him. First i will try to compile all points and then post here for clearing all doubts on carb tuning. Just by riding the bike you can deduce if the bike is running lean or rich.I will post by tomorrow evening.
@paul- Nice DIY on speedo lightning. I forgot to mention it.I am little weak in electronics stuff and i showed it to my friend who is an electronics engineer and he agreed to do it for me. He also agreed to find a way for back light. Very soon i think i will run 45/40 watt headlight bulb from first gen bajaj caliber.

Thanks for confirming.
What !! HS1/HS4 45/40 watt headlight is available ? My bike will take that load easily because of LED mods,please tell me where I can find it.
And you can also do that back-light mod,it is very simple.

No, it is not HS1 or H4 but it is like passion or the old model splendor. Wait let me post the photo from my friends shop.
Can you guide me how to do back light led or where it is posted as i will show my friend about it and he will do it for me.
Regarding your battery query, i have taken photos from my friend shop and will post the details soon as i load the photos on the PC.

Oh !So you mean the round bulb ? I have seen that.
Probably the reason your joy doesn't have a good focus is because of this type of bulb,I have seen it on my Uncles 2001 passion.

Checked it , the damn markings are on the barrel of that valve thingy under the mounting flange , could not read it whole but it ends with "...HIN"

Checked that oily joint , that pic was just after the saturday wash and water sticking to the dust accumulated there . Nothing now that it's dry . False alarm .

11800kms only on odo , meter was disconnected for about 1k , so say around 12800 . Much less opportunity to ride last few months .

Dunno the carb jet sizes , shall try to check when next opened .

That is a non-halogen bulb as far as I can remember the Caliber's . No ?

@pinakiji and shoeb- I have changed the bulb to halogen as halogen is available in that configuration.These type of bulb are known as M5 or bosch cap type. Presently using Phillips halogen from same make.
I didn't anywhere say the headlight focus is not good. Joy was the first bike to sport round MFR lamp and the beam pattern when falls on road is the best. Although my extreme,splendor pro, pleasure all have much brighter headlight but when it comes to beam spread and focus my joy wins hands down.
The problem is that light intensity is low as you know pre 2004 hero honda's have very low light output. First bike of hero honda to sport powerful light was CD Dawn. Then all others were upgraded.
My joy will provide bright light only when revved to 4K Rpm.I think it has to do with rectifier and i think i will change to present model rectifier and check. May be i will open my pleasure or extreme rectifier and check.
Off late i was seeing that even though i was using halogen bulb the brightness was less than plain bulb, when the bike was new.I thought the light coil must have gone weak as the bike has run so much. But i thought of an idea and consulted my mechanic, he also agreed with my idea and thus i gave my bike to mechanic as i didn't have time.
The idea was to use insulating varnish used in fan and coil windings on the light coil. The varnish was poured on the light coil and was let to dry in the sun. After two days, when i got time i went to take my bike. Believe me, i was surprised as when i took my bike it was night and i got to test the light and the light was very bright. Previously the light was yellowish but now it is quite white and the light glows at full intensity at 40 kph in 4th gear.But still it is less than new hero honda but nothing can been done as this was what the company designed. When i open the bike for complete overhaul i.e restore the bike to factory condition then i will look into it.
Also after all these years and running the front brake drum is slightly worn out and most probably i will change it to bigger drum from splendor as i cannot think how can company give 110 mm front drum that too in joy which weighs 116 kg kerb weight and front shock being short weight is towards front.Changing to front bigger drum will make the bike stop very quickly. The rear drum is as best it can get as i am yet to see in any other bikes which has so powerful rear brakes as this drum.So this rear drum will continue.
I have lot of work planned on the body of bike as i have not spent a single rupee on body parts and they are requiring some work. I will completely disassemble the bike and restore it like factory condition.Most probably i will start the work by next year.