http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post895627
All the specifications are easily understandable even though it is in Spanish.

No part can go reverse,in-fact I opened the cover as soon as I found the lever hard before re-installing the muffler. I also re-checked the springs,etc before installing the muffler back.
I thought the lever was hard because I had changed the duplicate springs to OE and I never lubricated the clutch cable.

Yes,even the new cables are lined by a white polymer(looks like a sleeve).

That is some serious wear on the housing.
Most probably because of clutch abuse - Releasing the clutch suddenly to launch the bike (or) releasing the clutch suddenly without leaving the accelerator.That sudden shock is enough to eat away that soft aluminum overtime. Same is the case with the valve spring seat washer which prevents the spring from eating the soft aluminum head.

That groves on the housing doesn't allow free engagement and disengagement of the clutch plates as a result of which juddering is noticed when the clutch is just about to engage.

Sibun has answered all your questions very well,kudos to him for his knowledge and experience.

And Remember
To tighten the clutch center nut with a punch and hammer to lock it.
Replace the GPT also if you have to replace the clutch housing assembly because the older gear will damage the new clutch housing gear rapidly.
Clean the internals with a lint free cloth as fibers/lint tend to clog the filter mesh.
Clean OR Replace the kick lever oil-seal if it is leaking.(It can be replaced even with the cover installed.)

If you are replacing the chain then replace the front sprocket also.(In-case it is not included in the kit,Diamond chain kit is THE BEST)

Sibun Bhai please share your experience with us. We all love to hear tips from you.

Any warning or instruction about lubrication on the clutch-cable/speedo-cable etc OE packages ?

Spanish is ok , I can read/speak poco Espanol , but where is it ? Could not find that in your link - please post download link asap .

HONDA CD100 TALLER.pdf

Maybe you can translate it for us ?

As far as what Unicorn's manual tells- It suggests lubing the cable if the cable operation is not smooth. I have seen mechanics lubing it as part of the so called Full servicing.
http://www.dansmc.com/cables.htm also mentions about lubing cables.

Not that good at it, can barely read it ok . Ok got it , Thanks .

(Google translate)

this is one thread were some 'real-time' xyzabc goes on.. beat's all the other ownership/diy's etc etc thread's (except the Tourer section- anyone doing some bad ass touring on their splendor ? ) - and some great friendly people and advices etc.. these 150 odd pages have a wealth of information!! keep going guys.. kudos!

Second that. This is one bad ass thread with some bad ass DIYs and bad ass results.

What is the benefit of adding 2t oil in petrol tank..?

My result of clutch plate replacement.

After suggestion got to change the clutch housing, first i went to my nearby mechanic and showed him the grooves. He said there is no problem in this, use like that, its not worth changing it. I got confuse what to do!

Then went to another known mechanic, he also said the same thing. He said this is your original fitting if u change the bush (even if u buy RICO) it will not last, but if u really want to change go for original. But as per my experience this will run good.

Still not got satisfaction, then went a lathe guy, he said this can run without any problem. Play is fine. If u buy housing it cost Rs.120 & Rs.50 for fitting charge. I said, well i think i should try it first then.

Then before talking final decision i went to my known ASC mechanic. He said the grooves are not too much deep. It can run without any problem. I said then why I found two clutches bend? That would be some other problem, he said.

So, after talking to sibun, i came to final decision that, I'll first give a try like this, if problem arrive again, it can be open again to change. But once a part is bought....we cannot go back in time.

PURCHASING
So then went to buy clutch and steel pate. When the bill printed out, oh my god total Rs.416 ...the clutches cost Rs.336, i thought if Makino cost Rs.140 then OE may be around 250.
Also bought the Gulf full synthetic 10w30 900 ml for Rs.320 and got 25rs coupon inside

PREPARING
Taken the plates out to soak and found RICO packing. No name found in old OE clutches. Checked thickness its 3 mm, old clutches got 2.90 mm after 10k run.
Then, started working on bike, putted a piece of wood under the main stand to the left side & washed the clutch area with petrol. Pulled the bike to the right side to take out any more old engine oil.

FITTING
After an hour, fitted every things back with proper lubrication. Tightened the four #10 bolts of clutch in criss cross pattern, after completely tightened the found two springs is slightly out from its place. Shit! mistakes happen, then loosen all bolts slightly, then adjusted the spring with a screw driver to the center, & tightened it.

When everything back in its place, filled the crank with that oil. and started a bike.
Voice changed , become more smooth, I leaved the bike in ideal for for few minutes for the new oil to travel.

DRIVING/RESULTS
Then the time comes to drive it!
I can feel the difference when the clutch released on first gear moved instantly, taken to the drive to check of juddering. And i'm surprised to see that there is no juddering at all. Not a single juddering. My problem Solved! Yippee!

CONCLUSION
Bike is running good now without using frequent clutch. But i feel some slight decrease in my instant pickup. It is not much noticeable, but i think that is because of new synthetic based oil. Using it for the first time. May pickup change after getting hot. But its not a big problem.

In this process i learned inspecting, replacing the clutches and how it works.

Thanks to all you guys for support.

Now will look forward to fix some other things.

I've translated few pages. Its very hard job to do. Maybe Dragon naturally speaking will do some job easy.

Honda CG125 76-91 Service Manual

Also find replies in Bold.

Guys just out of curiosity. I had a splendor 2001 model. It really served me well. But, sometimes in rainy season, the bike just wont start.. I was scared of the rains. The sparkplug was clean and electrical links were clean too. What could be the reason??

I was having this problem too, suffered a lot in rains for 2-3 years, no mechanic was able to find the problem. It didn't start even after washing it.
But latter i found it myself, it was the problem with Ignition coil. It was crack on the top sealing.
The spark was held, but it was too low to form the ignite.

So when i changed that coil. I surprised to ride my bike. Now no matter how much i wash or drive in rain, it never stop
So check your ignition.
Throw water on the ignition coil and try to start a bike. Also check the spark before and after. If u found some difference. Your coil is weak.
Also u can check your ignition using multimeter How to Troubleshoot an Ignition Coil | eHow.com

Note: If u see red spark, that probably indicates week spark. The spark should be blue, and it can stretch up to 1 inch.
I've uploaded a video check this out.

I second that ! I have always had trouble like this with ignition coil thing . Problem is that rainwater easily falls on it on all 3 of the Yamaha bikes I had and also the Splendor's . CD-100 had that coil mounted in a much safer position rearwards under the tank . It is an intermittent problem and difficult to isolate . Take out the coil and inspect it carefully , or take it to an auto-electrics guy and have it tested properly .

@paul - where are our pictures ?

Actually its not possible to take pictures with oily hands, specially when u have SLR camera. And there was no one to help me out with this taking pictures.

You could have asked your younger brother to take pictures just like I do .

How is the clutch performing when the engine is hot ? OE clutch plates will have year of manufacture Embedded on them,see if it is there on your old plates.
Do post a review of the FS oil after 200 kms.

No brother is here. I'm alone.
Performing better even after hot. Only 1 or two times i found juddering a very little bit on a up direction when the bike was very slow. But i think that is normal because i've driven my friends passion plus (2006) 35k on odo and has juddering a very bit.
But all in all, its smooth now. The bike is now running without changing gear at low speed. Previously was juddering when given accelerator at same speed.

On old plates only number is written that i can see is 100534 in all 4 plates
What kind of review after 200 km??

Sometimes i'm feeling a bit less pickup, but when i accelerated the bike it touches the 80 very fast. Previously when tested the top speed was 85. Will test thing thing sometimes again.