I would recommend a Champion- PRZ7HC. Nowadays many replacement spare parts of hero have become like a lucky draw. From chains to plugs buying OE hero packed minor maintenance parts is like participating in a lucky draw contest.
Sibun has made a good post regarding what parts to buy from hero and not.
But then some other critical parts are just great,hero is going back to its previous trusted vendors it seems. Good move by hero.

Yes i am still using it with no puncture

Will check those tyres at dealer here , but i am inclined towards Ceat GRIPP due to roads here .
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MICO UR4A & NGK CR7HSA are the 2 plugs suggested in my Passion Owners Manual . Which one would be good between these 2 ?
Tried to open my Plug to see which one it is , but its really tight , will take bike to friends garage & check it .

Can you give me link of that post ?

Champion- PRZ7HC.
Try to open it using a # 16 deep box wrench. Fits in good and gives a lot of leverage,mechanics use it,I use it.

It was one of the earliest posts,many-many pages back.I am unable to find that post.Once I do I will post the link here.

That is just amazing .
You don't need much grip on front tyres since it isn't the drive wheel . Excess cut patterns & weight on the front just adds faltu rolling-resistance instead . Rib is just fine , so are the zapper FS/FV/FM . Somehow I have always had good luck and good service from mrf tyres and not so good with others ( have tried tvs & ceat & dunlop ) .

Avoid the Mico . Buy the champion or NGK . Both are good - I have tried out both, I prefer the NGK . I am running an NGK CR7HGP now ( the champion is kept almost new as spare in the toolkit on the bike ) . Use a number 16 ring spanner to remove the plug - fits perfectly and makes it easy work . Too easy infact - When using this big ring spanner be careful not to overtighten when you fit back .

Please excuse for late replies - comming home late and dog tired .

Since your bike has clocked 56k then before changing plug first make sure if your bike is not smoking.
What sibun says, if your bike smokes and if you use the resistor plug such as champion PRZ7HC, Mico UR4AC or NGK-CR7HSA, then it will sort out very soon when come in contact with oil. The word 'R' means its resistor plug.
If your bike is re-bored or overhauled and doesn't smoke, then you can go for any plug. But if its smoking then use Non-Resistor plug and go for MICO U4A or Champion Hi Power K7HP.
Use ring wrench to open the plug and inspect there shouldn't be any oil deposit in the plug thread.

Problem is that , difficult to find a pertiular model of plug , if i search here for champion plug i will find it in almost all auto shop
but if i ask them for a pertiular PRZ7HC model of Champion then first they will ask what is it ? After explaining they will say no such a thing only this thing & show some xyz model of champion which they have . But in HMC spare shop if part number is given they will look for it , if available they will give it , if not they order it .
That would be easy than finding specific model plug in no. of automobile shop while answering there questions . But anyway will check that in automobiles shops .

Link me when you find it .

Tried to open plug at home but its really tight & my Vibrasonic & Windtone horns not giving space to move hand freely there .
Opened it today at my mechanics place . All black it is . He said replacement needed .

Yes i too like MRF they are really good , except in wet condition . And in mansoon road conditions are really bad here , in normal days its like offroading that is why i interested in offroader tyres initially .

Me too replying late No problem ji .

No paul no problem in bike ( except cracker sounds in summer afternoon as i posted earlier ) , not re-bored , not overhauled , not any kind of smoke . Everything is just awesome , even start in 1 kick when i back home after 15 days or month . And from next day just half kick needed to start .
From ZMR thread i come to know spark plug needs replacement then only i given attention to it , cause you know HeroHonda's are really awesome & trouble free .

Also i think i need to change spark plug of our scooty es ( the model having self start & clear indicator lense in front & rectangle shape mirrors ) Anyone knows plug model number ?

This particular champion plug is available easily.Less chance of getting a fake or defective piece unlike NGK, that is why I recommended you a Champion plug.
Tell the shop keeper to give a Original hero honda plug and buy it only if it is made by Champion.(You will need to open the box ).
Better if you can get it directly in its orignal packing ie. mfg and packed by Federal Mogul.
Be-aware of duplicate plugs/re-branded /re-furbished,lots of Chinese/local plugs floating in market nowadays.

Ever heard of Sino AT7C plug ?Just removed it from my friend's bike .If you want I can post a picture too !!

Don't tell them the model first, ask them to give a champion plug and see if its PRZ7HC, if yes then buy it otherwise refuse it. If they bother anything, then tell them i want PRZ7HC give me if you have!
Also find the attachment and take it to your mobile.

Ok got it Champion PRZ7HC . Found it in a newly build spare shop , got it for 60/- rupees .

I screwed up adjusting chain slack and ended up with this The chain is very tight and has no slack now.
The swingarm just won't go back to the adjusting nut.
The adjusting mechanism on the other side(right side) is fine.
What do you guys recommend I do?

Here is the correct procedure. I am in a hurry,experts please correct me if I am wrong anywhere.
Loosen both adjuster nuts of both sides and loosen the #23(#24 also fits) nut which is visible in this pic.
Now spin the wheel and stomp the brakes suddenly,this will loosen the chain and also align it to some extent.
Then adjust the chain slack such that there is minimum 1" slack at the tightest link.(Minimum slack should be 1" at any position of the chain from the chain inspection window) Failing to do so will result in over-tightening of the chain.
Now spin the wheel again and stomp the brakes suddenly. while the brake pedal is still pressed check the adjuster marks and make sure it the same. Tighten the #23 nut and axle nut.(while the brake pedal is still pressed) Do the lock nuts and re-check the chain slack.

Shoeb or anyone , can you give me an idea of the approximate resistance value of the Splendor's OE plug cap ?
Mine is reading near 120-130kΩ which I think is abnormally high . I haven't got to replacing it yet since the ASC has the new red colour caps only in stock (and wants to fit that instead) and nearby shops are selling local made ones . Engine off has occured a few times and more and more in the last few days . I need to visit Bansal motors now asap to get it , but am stuck here with loads of urgent work . Maybe i'll just a buy a local one for temporary fix . Advice please .

Mine shows just 4.4KΩ.(when hot) Made be ANU (It is my stock plug cap). For temporary use,get a swiss plug(Rs.30/-).
Replace it with a OE ASAP.

Many Thanks brother for confirming my doubt . That is in the correct range of values for resistor-ed plug caps - around 5kΩ . I almost remembered that , and also I measured my best friend's wind-125 OE plug cap at 1kΩ only . So when mine measured this ...



I knew something was very wrong ....
(Thanks to SIBUN again for pointing me out this itsy bitsy thingy for my problems . But I didn't have the inclination to try the get-wet method in this cold - so I measured resistances indoors instead . Very exact diagnosis from you my friend - dunno how to thank you enough everytime) .

So today I got new plug cap , caps to be exact ...



- the ASC had bought the correct one for Splendors and called me in the afternoon to collect and I had already purchased (and was running on) a local made one for Rs 15 since morning today . As I had sternly chided the ASC on sunday for trying to palm me off the new red caps (incorrect one for Splendor) - I had to go and buy the OE one from them for Rs 91 too . The bottom one is the old defective part .
Yes , both the OE Splendor plug caps are of this ANU marking ... part number 30700098150S costing Rs 91.00 presently .



The problem I was having is sudden engine dying mainly during idle , irregular idle etc particularly aggravated when the bike is wet . Most of the time however it would run fine and I could not demo the problem to someone - like the ASC mechanics , and they'd send me back . Another symptom now detected (after Sibun pointed me in the right direction) - the spark plug cap itself was getting pretty hot during engine operation (suggestive of the excessive resistance) .
The only visible defect was this ...



A rusty screw where the cap screws into the HT wire comming from the induction coil . Presumably it was a poorly galvanised steel screw . In my friend's ancient wind-125 plug cap this screw is stainless steel and still shining like mirror . Old is gold , as they say .

Hopefully Hero is now aware about this rust problem here - since I found that this screw is now made of brass in the new OE plug cap, instead .



While the new OE plug's resistance is bang on in the correct range in kilo-ohms .... Hopefully all my problems shall vanish in thin air once I fit it tomorrow morning .




Surprisingly the el cheapo Rs 15 plug cap's one is also made of brass ....



and I kinda like how they spell



and it's resistance value is near zero ...



i.e it's a non-resistor type plug cap .
IMHO - You can use this cheap non-resistor type plug cap and the bike shall run plenty fine and also have less chance of failure too . It is just a plastic shrouded conductor and has no part to go bad .

Then why on earth do Hero(and other makers) supply expensive (and possible to fail) resistior type OE plug caps in the first place ?
The answer to this is written here on their label itself -



They are required by the government to do this . Resistor type plug caps and resistor type spark plugs supress radio noise - a hum in nearby AM radios and TVs originating from your bike's ignition circuit - as you ride by . Add up all the radio hums from all the vehicles on the road at one time - and that would add up to radio cacophony . Also on-car radio etc does pick up this hum and a few odd CDI units on some car's ignition circuits are sensitive to radio disturbance .
Other than this , there is no benefit to us riders to have resistance type plugs + plug caps . Problem is that all this resistance + resistance weakens the sparking current and the tiny ceramic resistance part build into these plugs and plug caps can fail easily - like all electronic thingies . This is from inside an NGK resistored plug cap ....


(photo courtesy - Plug Caps n Coils FAQ) .

My feeling is that in old engine designs like the Splendor's , resistance in the plug plus one more in the plug cap is an later add-on solely for compliance to govt regulations . They are not necessary and the bike would run fine (much better in fact) on non-resistored plugs and caps . However , since it's almost impossible to find non-resistored spark plugs today owing to the same govt stricture , we can at least eliminate the resistor in the plug cap and live happily . Resistored spark plug alone supresses radio noise ade-quietly I think .

Your thoughts on this everyone ?

I never had any sort of problem with my plug cap. Make sure it is threaded onto the wire tightly or else water will creep in between the wire and screw.
Now break that old cap and let us know how it looks inside it. Also measure the resistance of the screw and resistor.