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**shoeb2015** · 02-20-2013, 09:10 PM

Originally posted by mayank.travadi View Post

speaking of juggad if u want to test the compression...remove the spark plug and keep a thumb pressed on the hole blocking it and crank...it the pressure blows of ur thumb(not literally blowing of like a bomb...just the pressure will be high enough that u cant keep ur thumb there) then the compression is fine....if u can manage to keep ur thumb there while cranking..u r loosing compression...not a very accurate method but u can roughly estimate

But then a compression gauge and this method separates us from the roadside mechanics.

@Paul- What a collection of gauges !!

Give me one of those and I will make a boost gauge out of it for my car,it doesn't even require any kind of schrader valve ! (Just kidding)

IMO,A normal tire gauge will serve our purpose as the pressure will be in excess of 150 psi whereas the max capacity of your gauges is 160. For this you can get a 0-300 psi industrial pressure gauge,regular tire pressure hose with built in valve at the connectors(quick connects),suitable size fitting/adapter which fits in spark plug hole. You still need some kind of valve that will hold the pressure values so that you don't have to read the gauges in a split second.
Try to make the adapter by breaking an old plug and weld a suitable hose connector to it. You have power tools so it should no be a big problem.
But I doubt a ready-made compression gauge will be much cheaper and easy to use.(Just my thought)

**paul.1911** · 02-20-2013, 09:50 PM

Originally posted by mayank.travadi View Post

speaking of juggad if u want to test the compression...remove the spark plug and keep a thumb pressed on the hole blocking it and crank...it the pressure blows of ur thumb(not literally blowing of like a bomb...just the pressure will be high enough that u cant keep ur thumb there) then the compression is fine....if u can manage to keep ur thumb there while cranking..u r loosing compression...not a very accurate method but u can roughly estimate

I can know if my compression is leaking just by kicking. The problem is not leaking compression. All i want to know accurate compression given different climate range including difference in hot & cold engine.

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

@Paul- What a collection of gauges !!

Give me one of those and I will make a boost gauge out of it for my car,it doesn't even require any kind of schrader valve ! (Just kidding) yeah i'm too just thinking to sold one out

IMO,A normal tire gauge will serve our purpose as the pressure will be in excess of 150 psi whereas the max capacity of your gauges is 160. For this you can get a 0-300 psi industrial pressure gauge,regular tire pressure hose with built in valve at the connectors(quick connects),suitable size fitting/adapter which fits in spark plug hole. You still need some kind of valve that will hold the pressure values so that you don't have to read the gauges in a split second.
Try to make the adapter by breaking an old plug and weld a suitable hose connector to it. You have power tools so it should no be a big problem.
But I doubt a ready-made compression gauge will be much cheaper and easy to use.(Just my thought)

While searching i come to know that a psi for car can be about 150. Then psi for our smaller engine will be lower than this. After all, the smaller gauge on the most right can measure up to 250 psi

and i think that is enough.

The two bigger one had liquid inside, and i think more accurate.

Schrader valve will be necessary so that i can see needle increasing. And it'll need to crank the engine until it reaches the highest level.
I am gonna change rings soon, so this way i will be able to measure the difference.

I thought same of breaking the old plug and making it. Will try that. Found one link too, a man named 'Willy' had made this Compression gauge question. - Page 3

Fitting schrader valve inside plug would not be easy, our plug is too small. If i buy a new gauge, these gauges will be then of 'No Use'.
Don't know where only connecting jugaad would be available.

**sibun** · 02-20-2013, 10:54 PM

@paul- Go to place where meters are available at your place. Then ask them the connector for engine compression meter. You will get the pipe, the socket and the valve as single piece. Buy the whole set and fit it to your meter.
@all- Since PSR sir has already explained FI system in detail, i have nothing more to add. If still somebody wants more then they can PM me.

**ravi@17bhp** · 02-20-2013, 11:21 PM

Since all the most-knowledgeable persons are here, I am asking this here. How to recognize if the bike is not properly tuned. Whether its running a rich mixture or lean mixture? Any characteristics to notice while riding? Today I tuned my ZMA, by setting the idle rpm at 3k and adjusting the AFR screw. At 3.25 full turns the rpm needle hovered at 4k rpm. I left opening the the AFR screw when the rpm needle is solid at 4k rpm. Before that when I opened the AFR screw till 5 full turns and the rpm shot up to 5-6k rpm. This left me confused about proper method of turning. Any inputs on this. This might have been discussed many times, but couldn't locate the exact information that I wanted.

**psr** · 02-21-2013, 01:04 AM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Since all the most-knowledgeable persons are here, I am asking this here. How to recognize if the bike is not properly tuned. Whether its running a rich mixture or lean mixture? Any characteristics to notice while riding? Today I tuned my ZMA, by setting the idle rpm at 3k and adjusting the AFR screw. At 3.25 full turns the rpm needle hovered at 4k rpm. I left opening the the AFR screw when the rpm needle is solid at 4k rpm. Before that when I opened the AFR screw till 5 full turns and the rpm shot up to 5-6k rpm. This left me confused about proper method of turning. Any inputs on this. This might have been discussed many times, but couldn't locate the exact information that I wanted.

The Factory setting is 2.5 turns anticlockwise after turning the AFR screw fully clockwise, till it stops...A setting of 3.5 turns anticlockwise give good acceptable initial and acceptable FE..more than this will enrich the AFR from 0 to 3 k RPM and result in loss of FE but improved low to mid performance...

**psr** · 02-21-2013, 01:07 AM

Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post

While searching i come to know that a psi for car can be about 150. Then psi for our smaller engine will be lower than this. After all, the smaller gauge on the most right can measure up to 250 psi

and i think that is enough.

The two bigger one had liquid inside, and i think more accurate.

Schrader valve will be necessary so that i can see needle increasing. And it'll need to crank the engine until it reaches the highest level.
I am gonna change rings soon, so this way i will be able to measure the difference.

I thought same of breaking the old plug and making it. Will try that. Found one link too, a man named 'Willy' had made this Compression gauge question. - Page 3

Fitting schrader valve inside plug would not be easy, our plug is too small. If i buy a new gauge, these gauges will be then of 'No Use'.
Don't know where only connecting jugaad would be available.

The compression pressure in PSi will be dependent on displacement.....
There is another useful application in having a modified spark plug with hose attachment....You can also Inflate a tire with it....

**Pinaki** · 02-21-2013, 01:43 AM

A Splendor stopped by trade union strikers in Bhubaneswar today . ( news.in.msn.com ) .

**paul.1911** · 02-21-2013, 01:58 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The compression pressure in PSi will be dependent on displacement.....
There is another useful application in having a modified spark plug with hose attachment....You can also Inflate a tire with it....

Yeah then we would not need to take air pump while on tour. If tire punctures then air can be fill using crank lol

thats a good idea!

**psr** · 02-21-2013, 10:34 AM

Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post

Yeah then we would not need to take air pump while on tour. If tire punctures then air can be fill using crank lol

thats a good idea!

But you have to be careful....you have to either run the engine with petrol tap closed to dry out the carb, or drain the carb petrol bowl...since pumping petrol fumes into the tire will not only ruin the rubber but can also become explosive under heat...

**ashwinprakas** · 02-21-2013, 10:56 AM

I've seen a new contraption online which is used as a jack to lift cars with the help of exhaust gasses. So while searching for an image stumbled upon this.

Exhaust tire filler? - ADVrider

**ravi@17bhp** · 02-21-2013, 11:26 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The Factory setting is 2.5 turns anticlockwise after turning the AFR screw fully clockwise, till it stops...A setting of 3.5 turns anticlockwise give good acceptable initial and acceptable FE..more than this will enrich the AFR from 0 to 3 k RPM and result in loss of FE but improved low to mid performance...

Is it okay to have the AFR at 2.5 to 4 turns? Wont' there be a setting where the AF mixture is optimum. I would like to know how to achieve it. Any inputs on this please.

**psr** · 02-21-2013, 11:41 AM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Is it okay to have the AFR at 2.5 to 4 turns? Wont' there be a setting where the AF mixture is optimum. I would like to know how to achieve it. Any inputs on this please.

3.5 turns gives optimum result...You get 32~35 in city and low to mid acceptable acceleration.

**paul.1911** · 02-24-2013, 04:35 AM

Is this looking pulsar to you?

huh? really?

Once a day i went to a Hero ASC and i saw a pulsar outside the service center. For a second i thought, why it is looking something different. Then i saw its engine, oh its a modified!!

Heres the another side

See its a Hero engine

Don't know who had modified, but whoever modified, kharcha kiya hai bande ne!!

**Pinaki** · 02-24-2013, 03:39 PM

Looks like the 125cc Super-Splendor engine block to me .. nahi ? Can't imagine the load of work he had to do to get to this from there !

**shoeb2015** · 02-24-2013, 04:35 PM

That only shows how far people can go ! He must be very happy as he gets Hero engine's mileage + looks of pulsar.
Also note the fancy disc ! I think he has picked up the parts from scrap and re-painted.
Pulsar mod on a Budget !

Ok, I have done 300 kms on Mico U4A and it required re-tuning. Earlier on the champion plug,it was very difficult to tune properly and now I am able to tune much more easily.
My heartfelt Thanks a lot SIBUN to teach me how to read an engine and AFR.

Mileage has gone up from 65 to 72 in peak city traffic. Cruising at highway speeds is altogether a different case now which I will talk about it later.

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