No , I just want to get to the final set-up by which a 60/55 watts lamp may be used in the headlight , with the least possible pain and most reliable result . Cost no bar . AC DC whatever , but one single well documented easy to follow procedure .
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Fantastic pics shoeb , I can follow the procedure easily . Keep it coming as you progress .Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
No , I just want to get to the final set-up by which a 60/55 watts lamp may be used in the headlight , with the least possible pain and most reliable result . Cost no bar . AC DC whatever , but one single well documented easy to follow procedure .
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Sibun'Jee , I have been inquiring around a bit , various silencers(aftermarket) are available for splendor/splendor+/CD starting right from 700 Rs . Yet to go to ASC to check if OEM HeroHonda Y2K silencer is available .Quite confusing and the shopkeepers and mechanics confuse you further (they seem confused themselves). Which is best for what and why so, nobody knows .
What are the differences between the Y2K and non-Y2K(older) silencers ? Does the Y2K silencers also have cat-con inside it ? How is the current(black powder coated) and older splendor silencer constructed , baffles , wool, cat-con location etc etc ? Please enlighten us .
Ok , reading up ... keeping too busy during the day .. so can check up xbhp only after midnight nowadays ... damnOriginally posted by shoeb2015 View PostSome more details added and queries answered.
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Why did you buy swiss made coil while original is available for same price. Although swiss has good quality but still original is original. Well detailed explanation and i will do the same except that coil winding part will be done by my cousin brother as he is an expert in winding coils. And always use varnish as it will help reduce eddy current in coils.Originally posted by shoeb2015 View PostYesterday I Purchased the following parts/items.
1.I got a new SWISS made lighting coil for Rs.190/-
2.Insulated copper 20G,250 gms for Rs.130/-(Only 150 gms is required)
3.Insulating Sleeves @ for Rs.10/-
4.Insulating varnish Rs.35.(Pre-made Liquid varnish is recommended)
The winding is not that good but not too-bad either,I had expected more better finish but I must say its pretty neat for a less experienced person like me.

It took me about an hour and a half to rewind but I finished rewinding it yesterday by 12:30 Am late night
and my index finger is paining badly .
Yet to Install it and give some final touches such as soldering,attaching wires, sleeves and applying varnish.
I will try to post the results Soon.
@ Pinaki Ji
Do you want me to post the difference in light output on DC Stock coil VS DC Re-winded Or AC stock and DC re-winded or both?
@ Sibun
Coil goes weak after continous use ???
I thought magnets gets weak over time but anyways,I re-winded new coils.
The older magnets use to go weak but in modern bikes coils get weak and magnet are usually not changed.
Don't go for after market one as it will not last for even 1 year. The original is available and don't go for non y2k models as it will burn your exhaust valve besides increasing the noise. The y2k models do not have cat con inside but are longer and has more baffles so that it meets sound pollution norms. The powder coated ones have cat con inside them but y2k models do not have them. And splendor silencers do not have wool inside them and that is the reason they have nice beat to there sound. It do not contains any type of wool.Originally posted by Pinaki View PostSibun'Jee , I have been inquiring around a bit , various silencers(aftermarket) are available for splendor/splendor+/CD starting right from 700 Rs . Yet to go to ASC to check if OEM HeroHonda Y2K silencer is available .Quite confusing and the shopkeepers and mechanics confuse you further (they seem confused themselves). Which is best for what and why so, nobody knows .
What are the differences between the Y2K and non-Y2K(older) silencers ? Does the Y2K silencers also have cat-con inside it ? How is the current(black powder coated) and older splendor silencer constructed , baffles , wool, cat-con location etc etc ? Please enlighten us .
Ok , reading up ... keeping too busy during the day .. so can check up xbhp only after midnight nowadays ... damn
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If you ever come to bhubaneswar then i can get you a original y2k silencer.Last edited by sibun; 03-28-2012, 10:05 AM.Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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Original was not available so I got a SWISS coil.Originally posted by sibun View PostWhy did you buy swiss made coil while original is available for same price. Although swiss has good quality but still original is original. Well detailed explanation and i will do the same except that coil winding part will be done by my cousin brother as he is an expert in winding coils. And always use varnish as it will help reduce eddy current in coils.
The older magnets use to go weak but in modern bikes coils get weak and magnet are usually not changed.
Can you ask your cousin for some re-winding tips and share it with us ?
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Ok , confusions totally cleared up now , thank you .Originally posted by sibun View PostDon't go for after market one as it will not last for even 1 year...
The reason I am wanting to switch to non-cat-con type (Y2K) silencer is
i) Cat con in mine seems very restrictive either by manufacturing defect (mine is the first lot of post-BSIII black) , use of stale or adulterated petrol or my mechanic may have sprayed oil into the silencer from the exit hole with oil can (he does this on most bikes after servicing it I have noticed now) . My suspicion is this defective or clogged cat-con is getting too hot and causing too much back-pressure and malfunctioning the exhaust port in some way ... thereby causing the engine to overheat . Possible ?
ii) I kinda like the looks & sound with the stainless silencer . Don't mind the cost . I hate the cat-con thingy ever since they started putting it on the RX-135
. Will switch once I can get OEM Y2K silencer now.
Gotcha . If all else fails, get leave and get on Dhauli expressOriginally posted by sibun View PostIf you ever come to bhubaneswar then i can get you a original y2k silencer.
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I am agreed with this ,vibrations from running the bike may cause coil wires to rub against each other or the coil-frame metal etc and lose the insulation in that spot and a short . A common problem that occurs in old bike coils .Originally posted by sibun View Post.. And always use varnish as it will help reduce eddy current in coils..Last edited by Pinaki; 03-28-2012, 11:12 PM.
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Wiring
I am posting the Wiring Procedure here
Part needed
A more powerful Rectifer Regulator(Here I will be using Bajaj Pulsar UG4 RR which supports full DC and pumps upto 5.5amps)
The socket is useless for us ,so I will remove the socket by pushing the little tabs with a jewelers flat screwdriver.
2. About 10 Clips for Rs.1 each
More details will be added soon.Last edited by shoeb2015; 03-28-2012, 11:38 PM.
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They are not tight but they have ceased because of repeated heating and cooling. Remember the stator plate is aluminum on which the screws are tightened. With a flat punch hit the tip of bolt with light repeated strokes and try to open it. If still it is tight then find someone to help and with a long screw driver press the nut with more force. Do not twist the screwdriver to open. Instead tell the other person to hold the handle of screwdriver with monkey plier and twist to open the screw. By this method most nuts open. The principle is that with the force on screw driver is made to prevent the slipping of screwdriver head and the other person with the help of plier twist the screwdriver and thus get leverage and no force is required. If it doesn't open by above method then do not force it and take it to a mechanic instead.Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post@Sibun & Pinaki ji
My Coil Screws are very tight
and I am unable unscrew them.
How do I unscrew them ?Any help/tips?
Please help me,Without removing the coils I cant do anything.Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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Thanks for the great tip,I will try it and let you know the result.Originally posted by sibun View PostThey are not tight but they have ceased because of repeated heating and cooling. Remember the stator plate is aluminum on which the screws are tightened. With a flat punch hit the tip of bolt with light repeated strokes and try to open it. If still it is tight then find someone to help and with a long screw driver press the nut with more force. Do not twist the screwdriver to open. Instead tell the other person to hold the handle of screwdriver with monkey plier and twist to open the screw. By this method most nuts open. The principle is that with the force on screw driver is made to prevent the slipping of screwdriver head and the other person with the help of plier twist the screwdriver and thus get leverage and no force is required. If it doesn't open by above method then do not force it and take it to a mechanic instead.Last edited by shoeb2015; 03-31-2012, 01:03 AM.
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Right method Sibun'jee . What I observed the HH ASC guys were doing to open my centrifugal filter cover screws that were tight like this ... they jammed a matching screwdriver on the screw , hit the screwdriver handle top with a rubber/plastic hammer a few times and then remove the screwdriver . Then they used the motorised/hydraulic drivers they normally use on the service bays to finally unscrew it .
Soaking the screw area with a drop of penetrating oil overnight may help . Be very very careful so as not to strip the screw head or threads .Last edited by Pinaki; 03-30-2012, 01:02 AM.
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Sibun's method did not work,Thank you for the sugesstion though.
Mechanics does not want to open it,As per them it is not their job-it is an electrician's job

They are telling me all sorts of crap like --there will be a change in voltage and my elctricals will blow off even If I loosen the screws.: After hearing this I was like
.and then
at their ignorance.
One of the mechanic even told me-
"Bhai sab ye bekar ke mod splelender pe kyon karte ho ? Pulsar per karte to acha hota.Ye mod karne apko koi aur bike nahi milli kya?"

Translation-"Why do you do this mod on a splendor ?You could have done it on a pulsar instead,Why cant you find any other bike for doing this mod ?."
(He means to say that it is better If i Do this stuff on a 150cc + bikes)
SO today I went out and purchased a Impact Screw Driver,I will try to unscrew it tomorrow using the impact driver.
I did not try to open it now as the engine is hot and also I don't want to disturb my neighbors at this time by striking it with a hammer.
Last edited by shoeb2015; 03-31-2012, 01:20 AM.
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