@all- there is no problem in new passion,splendor or pro but they are more tuned towards city riding as a result they provide great initial pull which you cannot catch with splendor,joy, dawn etc of pre 2010 model. the downside is that once you cross 60 kph then mileage reduces drastically. Also the old model has greater top speed than new models. Joy has the highest top speed among all hero 100 cc bikes.
The bore and piston that are coming with the bikes are not defective but some of the bikes have valve oil seal defect as a result they smoke when new. The problem with replacement bore is that the piston is of shit quality and rings have more gap. You can use other company pistons like mahle, goetze, usha and there will be no problem. Usha pistons have the best quality as they have 11% silicon as a result they are hard and last quite long and silicon content avoid expanding of piston when hot. Even replacement bore kit for hero honda is available by usha and mahle which are of excellent quality but when opting for those please ensure running-in of 2000km as they have very tight tolerance.Even honda bikes have these defects of smoking when new.
always use 20w 40 oil and problem of smoking will be reduced.
@psr- Some bikes have smokes coming out and they are rare cases but every bike doesn't have the problem.
@shoeb- There is no problem in pro model except that you will not feel like old bike. It is because they are short geared for better city riding. The mileage will be in 65-70 kpl region. How does a 0-60 timing of 8 secs feel. They are made for this only.It seems your problem has been rectified and please see the manual it has been mentioned replace every pipe with new one after 3 years. Also we cannot pinpoint the problem without having the first hand feel of the bike. In my case we tested it by closing the EGR completely.
@pinaki- Do not swap the carburettor with pre-pollution model. Pre pollution model are those before year 2000 and after that the carburettor is unchanged. pre pollution model carb are same but there jets are different.
Pre pollution carb:-
main jet- 85
pilot jet- 42
pollution model:-
main jet-38
pilot jet - 105(splendor,passion) 100(joy)
Do not shift to short silencer of pre pollution model as it will cause too much problem. Your engine will get hot because it contains cat-con and for it to remain effective it must operate at high temperature. Instead you can go for joy or 2000-2005 model splendor silencer as it doesn't contain cat con and has sufficient muffling so that sound is smooth. Yes new stainless steel silencer are available.
The play in the sprocket is there to automatically adjust to the play in chain and up-down movement of shock.
Bs-III models have only cat-con in silencer and no other change.
My joy is Bs-I model (2000 make) and yesterday i did pollution check :-
POLLUTANT recommended Result
Carbon monoxide 3.5% 0.01%
Hydrocarbon 4500ppm 10 ppm
oxygen -------- 19.5%
Afr --------- 13.1


The main reason for lower quality is the customer. Due to demand hero honda has to lower price and thus it has to lower quality. An example is that my Joy cost was 46,000 on road in 2001 but when CD-dawn was launched it was priced at 36,000 on road. So you can feel the quality. Even my cousin brother when bought Cd deluxe in 2009 with alloy wheels cost was 38,900 on road. Compare it with my joy which had spoke wheels, no fuel meter, no side cowl under grab rail, smaller drum and round headlight but still it cost more in year 2000.
My friend is a retailer of hero honda spares and he also said me that due to less sale of OE parts hero honda was compelled to reduce price.
The defect with bores and valves have been solved as the vendor has been changed.

Why is there so much difference ?

Usha is making bore block also ?
Lucky me,All our HH bikes are pre 2005.

Great news ! Usha factory is in kolkata and less than 2kms from my place .

Am running on motul 30004T+ 20w40 as of now . Engine is gone super smooth and silent , heat is mucho less too . Pickup is wee bit less than the 10w30 . Overall the bike is feeling very happy to ride . I am liking this oil more and more every time I fill with it . Planning to switch my crux from yamalube to this oil .
Fuel mileage is down to 52kmpl , as is usual after a tuning work by my HeroHonda ASC ( same thing every time they serviced the bike since last two years ) . Going to visit them again for re-tune as soon as I can find some spare time . They usually get it right at the second or third attempt .
OK with the carburetor . You mean because of this damned new cat-con inside the bike's exhaust , it is going to keep engine hotter than others ? And I can get rid of this cat-con thingy by switching to stainless steel silencer, without other problems ? Where-from ? What cost ? Please guide me with this ... I have lots to learn about my tiddler it seems

Pinaki ji..Thanks a lot for the valuble information about air filter cleaning..When i gave my bike for service to mechanics here they usually clean the air filter using petrol..and after thay they apply some engine oil on the outside of the filter , they wont even make sure to spread the oil evenly..The instructions specially cleaning the filter with kerosene is very good..when mechanics used petrol even after some weeks we can see that the form is degraded and the outer elements seems to be burnt..I spread these instructions to my friends and now they are following this way..and 90w gear oil works wonders..

Replies in bold.

Sibun ji,
Tomorrow I will be purchasing a Bajaj Caliber Tachometer and install it.
What other options do I have if I am unable to find a caliber tacho ?

@shoeb- Caliber tachometer is the most easily available tachometer. Also it is very easy to connect.
@pinaki- Your pick-up is less because you are running excessively rich. As you remember that my bikes engine was opened up recently. So after running 1000 km my mechanic once again re-tuned the carb and made the mixture slightly lean that is the required mixture and he tuned it at idle without raising the rpm. Now i can't believe my bikes pulls like crazy. Even in 4th gear if you release accelerator on concrete roads then the rear slightly locks under torque. In first gear slight improper release of clutch causes a wheelie. Now my joy feels as if it pulls better than my extreme. In traffic light it eats up 125 cc bikes without any hard acceleration from me.
So my point is that if the mixture setting is correct then only mileage and pick-up will be perfect. If pick-up is less then mileage will also be less without any doubt.
The old stainless steel silencer is available. Just ask splendor y2k silencer. It will cost you some Rs. 1500.
And please while applying oil on filters don't apply it on the foam but on the oil carrier that is the black filter on the foam filter.

Any particular reason for not applying oil on yellow foam ? I have been applying it since so many years.
Does it restrict airflow and make AFR rich ?

Please tell us the secret of adjusting the AFR correctly.

@Pinak ji
Do keep your old silencer for PUC testing purpose.

Unable to Find a Tachometer.

Today I went to purchase the Caliber's Tachometer but I could not find even after searching two Bajaj SVCs and five local spare part shops.
@Sibun
Which other tachometer can I use ?(Any Alternate options ?)

All the bottles I have in stock now have front labels torn off owing to the discount coupon inside there(I checked) . But I'm sure I have older empty bottles with intact label somewhere in the garage ... coming up asap .

I visited the ASC again on friday for retune . They set the RPM to 1240 on fully hot engine by fiddling with the idle mixture screw only . AFR screw was not touched . Well I think they have made it too lean now(engine is gruff sounding and lazy to throttle, idle is pulsing steady and stable) . Will know only after measuring the fuel mileage again ... will take a few more attempts it seems . I need an handheld rpm meter like theirs or a mechanic like yours Sibun'jee .
That is nice .. means I can keep looking for that type of silencer here with hope now .
Sibun'jee , but I don't think that is the correct method of oiling the foam filter . I have been using this type of filter since a long time on many bikes and the method & materials I have used is the same suggested in Yamaha(RX) HeroHonda and all other owner's manual I have come across . A foam element left dry would not trap dust from air , other than the larger particles . The outer thin(black) filter is a pre-filter with coarse larger pore foam , which filters out larger dust and sand particles so that the inner fine pore(yellow) foam filter remains clog free(and serviceable) longer . Both have to oiled to function correctly AFAIK .

What is the approx cost of lighting coil (3-pole) ?
AFAIK it costs 190 but my friend told it cost ~ Rs.300/- for splendor's lighting coil.
What is 3 hole and 2 hole coil ?(Sounds like pole but......)
Does it mean the number of screws required to hold the coil ?

I will be re-winding it with 19 gauge wire today to get some more amps.(Bike is on full DC)
Just to be on safe side I will remove and keep my original coil and then I will buy a new set,remove the copper wire and re-wind it
I will post the results of Stock vs Re winded coils Within a day or so.
If anyone is interested in doing rewinding/electrical mods and stuff please do let me know.
I guess 150 gms will be enough but I will buy 200gms.

Update:I was not able to find Caliber's Tachometer even at the main markets of Hyderabad.
What to do now?

Try to find out from Bajaj ACS/Dealerships where they are getting their supplies from . A friendly mechanic at the ASC will tell you that . Like HeroHonda , Bajaj too has authorised parts stockists in every major city . Even if they don't have a part in stock , they can get it for you shortly . Bajaj parts are relatively easier to obtain here, also more duplicates exists .
Keep a pictorial record of the your coil experiment plzzz . I have always wanted to put a 65/55 watt phillips crystal-vision inside this damned headlight .. but don't even know how to spell magnetoo .

Your engine is coarse because you are running on rich mixture and a rich mixture will cause pulsing idle. A correct mixture will make the idle smooth and the strokes constant. and regarding the fact i will get back shortly after confirming the same.

If not able to find caliber tachometer get pulsar classic tachometer, old cbz tachometer, fiero f2 tachometer, stunner,unicorn,extreme any electronic tachometer but of single spark but not of double spark as in dtsi.
Don't worry the new bikes are coming with same type of holes and they are the mounting holes of coil to stator plate. They cost Rs. 188 and i am more than 100% sure as i have seen it at my retailer friend shop.
The old cd100 deluxe came with different mounting.
Please do not open the new coil. Instead open the old coil and rewind it and keep the new coil if anything goes wrong then you can use the new coil and moreover your old coil will have gone weak. My coil after 12 years have gone weak and most probably will rewind it when i get time.

Yesterday I Purchased the following parts/items.
1.I got a new SWISS made lighting coil for Rs.190/-
2.Insulated copper 20G,250 gms for Rs.130/-(Only 150 gms is required)
3.Insulating Sleeves @ for Rs.10/-
4.Insulating varnish Rs.46.(Pre-made Liquid varnish is recommended)





SWISS made lighting coil Two Holes version,(It refers to the number of screw holes)


Back side




Note the less turns on the right pole(Battery) when compared to the Lights coils(Left and middle)




Note the quality and Manufacturing date !!!>
The coil was so new that even the varnish did not dry in the lower most layers.(It usually dries by the engine heat) Hardly fifteen days old




Procedure


1.De-solder all the three coil starting and center tap.






2.Count the number of layers and turns in each layer.

3. Start un-winding all the poles.

4.While unwinding See and observe the Winding fashion.

The Stock winding fashion is alternate ie.clock-anticlockwise.
Right coil is Clockwise,middle one is Anti-clockwise and the leftmost coil is Clockwise winding.





I forgot to click the picture of of all the poles UN-WINDED.


After Two layers of winding


Continue winding on the middle pole in anti clockwise and then after winding middle pole ,continue winding on the left pole in clockwise direction.

Finished




The winding is not that good but not too-bad either,I had expected more better finish but I must say its pretty neat for a less experienced person like me.

It took me about an hour and a half to rewind but I finished rewinding it yesterday by 12:30 Am late night
and my index finger is paining badly .


Yet to Install it and give some final touches such as soldering,attaching wires, sleeves and applying varnish.
I will try to post the results Soon.

@ Pinaki Ji
Do you want me to post the difference in light output on DC Stock coil VS DC Re-winded Or AC stock and DC re-winded or both?

@ Sibun
Coil goes weak after continous use ???
I thought magnets gets weak over time but anyways,I re-winded new coils.


Some More Details

1.Why did I not go for 19G wire ?
A.19G was thick and would result in fewer turns per pole,and it will be difficult to re-wind.=> Fewer turns result in low voltage but a thicker wire gives more current at low RPM.

2.How many turns does a stock coil have at each pole ?
LT coils have 90 turns (each pole) and batt. coil has about 50 turns.
I managed to get 80+ turns on a 20G wire.

3.How much length is needed ?
Ans.Can't say,It depends on the thickness of wire and also how the coil is re-winded(Tight and neat or loose with spaces).
And You dont get insulated wire by length,it is SOLD ONLY BY WEIGHT.

4.If it is sold by weight how much should it purchase ?
Ans.I bought 250 gms so that I could practice by winding,but even after practicing I have wire left with me.
It is always better to buy more than the required amount because if the wire finishes before completing the winding ,you will have to buy new wire and start re-winding from the beginning as you cannot join wire/coil.

5.Is varnish really necessary ?
Ans.If you wind it tight and don't scratch and expose the insulation there is no need of varnish.

6.What wire should I use to join the ends of coil ?
Ans.Finolex or V-guard or any other good brand having good insulation and PTFE(Teflon coated wire) of at-least 10 amps current carrying capacity.

Update:28/03/2012
I purchased a cheap magneto holder for Rs.120/- after bargaining
It is better to have your own tools when you are doing DIY stuff so that you can make changes anytime if something goes wrong.


Magneto puller for Rs.75/-
Note-The puller's threads are left hand threaded.


Varnish insulator for Rs.46/-



Insulator sleeve installed.


Varnish poured from the bottle and excess of vanish is let to drop off.




More Details,Installation and wiring procedure COMING SOON.
To Be continued

Before going for complete DC i used 55/60 watt halogen in my passion , it took some more seconds to light up than normal 35/35 watt & also it's not fully bright but output is good than stock bulb .

Good going shoeb , would like to know the outcome & detailed comparison with stock vs rewinding when you done it completely .

Any reason why you using 20G wire , where as most xbhpians recommand 19G

Good that you played with new coil , cause personally i think its better to let the coil which came with bike as it is .

If you have calculated then please post how many turn of coil on each pole by manufacturer .

How many you put on each pole after rewinding .

And how much length of wire needed for it ? If you have measured the total length of 20G wire when you bought then now measure remaining wire length & put the info , would come handy to buy approximately nearer length than weight .

Once all done & you get the excepted result then the happiness is bigger than the pain you getting now