Pinaki Sir , Still confused of applying grease in the filter frame. my doubt is if we apply grease in that mesh type thing in the filter frame will it restrict air flow. i mean the mesh in which foam sits?

reposting=
how much a pair of tail-lamp costs?

Harish , I think the purpose of using lip-grease in foam type air-filter fitting is not clear to you ? Then I should explain it if you confirm .. . You can safely skip this grease step if in doubt .. not essential , and you'll have no problem .
Never apply grease or any air-blocking stuff on that wire mesh !! and I never said or showed you that ...
Which part of the tail-lamp ? Whole tail lamp assembly ? or Bulbs only ?

Yes sir, am not clear about applying grease..Please explain in detail ..waiting for your precious reply

In a foam air-filter the air is supposed to pass through the oil-wet foam only and not slip past it an any way . The common areas where air can(a remote possibility) slip past are the joints in the foam filter where the foam mates with the edge of the cage or frame and the ring where the whole filter mates to the air-box-hole . So for safety's sake some fastidious old-fa*ts like me put a thin layer of some sticky grease at these surfaces only . It's not recommended in the splendor manual and may not be necessary at all . The compression the oil-wet foam achieves at these joints should be sufficient to make an air-tight seal , all by itself . If you carefully examine that pic I posted earlier , you can see that the grease is being applied right on the edge ring of the filter-cage only ,and no where else .

Thank you sir..now doubts cleared

Was there any debris inside the centrifugal filter ?
Why did you get the tappets adjusted so early and that too without a feeler gauge ?

Yes some dirt inside the centrifugal filter , like sticky black goo . Not much on the mesh .. just a few metal particles from run in . Cleaned off with petrol and compressed air now .
Tappets were loose and noisy, could hear them on longer rides . I don't know why they didn't use any feeler gauge to measure it at the HeroHonda ASC , but it was done by the head-mechanic by feeling with his bare hands for a few minutes repeatedly adjusting it(at least they had the proper adjusting tool) . I asked him how he can do it right without feeler gauge .. but he just smiled back as he finished the work "tappit bohat loose tha sir , abb thik hai". Looked like he knew what he was doing ... hopefully the fix holds . Next time I go there , I'll surely carry my feeler gauges .
Rode the bike post service today for 25+25 kms up & down at 1 pm (hot sun beating down my back) at around 40-60 kmph . The engine is mucho cooler now with the 20w40 oil (checked with a drop of water on the barrel fins - took 8 secs to boil off after the ride) , no tappet noise , vastly reduced engine noise & vibrations, clutch feels just right and light . Pickup is a bit reduced cause they adjusted the carb a bit rich now . Yet measuring the fuel mileage on the OEM plug , had to switch as they disapprove of aftermarket plugs and parts . I was reluctant to visit the HH ASC , but was left without options . I am not getting any free time during daylight to tinker myself, local mechanics doesn't even have the common tools and skill and they try to cheat you . One local guy unscrewed the screws holding the carb-bowl on my yamaha crux using plumber's bob-pliers, just cause he didn't have a screwdriver short enough !

I have a few question for you more experienced splendor/passion/Cd-100/Joy owners here - How hot does this engine usually get on long and short rides in summer ? Have anyone done a spit/water-drop test on the engine fins ? Which oil/s is everyone running ? I haven't got much idea about whats normal and whats not on this splendor+ engine .

These engines run hot most of the time and now I am so fed-up with it that I have stopped bothering.
Sometimes the bike's engine seizes if driven continuously for very long a time at high RPMs but if the engine is allowed to cool for 10 mins,the engine roars back to life in just 1 kick.(These engine are extremely durable)

Water evaporates within 2~3 secs after riding more than 15km in city traffic with 10w40 oils and 3~4 secs with 20W40 oil.
10w40 and 15w40 oil looks and flows like water at these temps after using it for more than 500 kms(Lasts only 1500 km) .
(At-least for my bike)

Pinaki ji , with my 9 year & 10 month old passion , i found the engine won't get that much hot & cools faster , several times done 150 km contineously without a break at full throttle , i.e. the speed is around 90/100 kmph . No issue i noticied anywhere .

But what i found is during my city ride when i power shifting gears it becomes hot ( not so much ) but cools within minits of rest .

About engine oild , as the mech is my friend & i hardly know anything about oils untill 2011 , so i put the oil which is in mid range price tag , but mostly used Pennzoil oil , can't say about its grade & type , but its price was from 110 rupees in early days to 160 rupees when i last time changed to it .

As i kept the intervals of changing oil around 1500 / 2000 kms , when i recently changed the clutch plates , the mech got amazed that each part inside engine is shining like brand new part just made in factory .

But have some doubt about recent products as we have more bikes than members , so these days i hardly use passion , the intervals are most likely to be a week or two , but it always start in half kick without any problem , very few time it needs second kick to start , but one of my neighbor got new splendor+ before 8 months , which he uses daily still needs 5/6 kicks in morning to start .

Thanks shoeb & above_all , more feedback on the most sold bike in India ?
Alas , I too am compelled by life to ride daily in very congested city and bustling markets :-(
I've been following this practice too and got long engine life on all my previous bikes ... cheap oil .. quick change .. drain the old oil hot . You did well .
Gear shifting is fabulously smooth with this motul 30004T even when hot, I toggled lever second time sometimes cause I could not hear or feel the shifting click in traffic so I wasn't sure it actually shifted .

I have seen many Hero Honda engines of my friends and relative and It seems that engines internals are much cleaner when 10w30 oil is used.
My answer-It may be because the thinner oil is cleaning the internals and the oil becomes dirty within 1000 kms.


Pinaki ji can you explain why this happens ?
Is it just me who has observed this or is this a fact ?
Is my answer/prediction correct ?

Which bike does HH recommend to use 20w40 ?
As per the website all models are recommenced to run on 10W30.

In my city Chennai Of late I am seeing many NEW Splendors running with smoke from exhaust indicating engine problem...Suddenly the quality seem to have gone down drastically...anyone here had observed this in their respective area ?

Sir ,
Today(~3pm) I saw a new HH Hunk(run less than 200 kms) running with smoke from exhaust.
I was wondering If the owner had ripped his bike hard but when I asked him,He told me that he was driving his bike well below 4k rpmbut from Day 1 it had some engine related problems but the SVC guys told him that everything would be fine after Run-in.

Another Case
My father had decided to sell off his HH passion and buy a new PRO with Self but Mech advised to retain his bike as the new engine has many emission control technologies which has reduced the mileage and feel of the bike,Also overall quality seems to be poor.
But I never understood what he wanted to say until I actually took a test drive.

Sibun has already confirmed that new bores have manufacturing defect.

By HH you mean Hero now, right? So Hero bikes having defects!