Yup bro... that makes sense...
And i knew from the beginning that they had similar engines but the thing is i recently found out that CD/CB/Karizma models belong to honda and the rest belongs to Hero... Not sure about the authenticity of the above though...

How to charge the battery?

Hi guys, I am going to put my bike in storage for a period of about 3 months as i am moving far away for company work.there is no one to ride the bike at home. so after 3 months, probably the battery will be dead due to self discharge and it will deteriorate much faster.is there is any external DC charger available that can be connected to wall socket and charge the battery? preferably a slow charger that will not overheat battery while charging.battery is 3Ahr maintenance free sealed lead acid type.our Airtel DTH television set top box has a adapter having 12 volt DC output same as battery voltage of 12v,is this compatible?Also how do these service center people charge the battery's any idea?may be Pinaki has some idea on this.Thanks

^^^ Bro just disconnect the wires from battery terminals.

There is a separate charger for charging battery.

yaa but where to find suitable charger in market?is there any brand that makes such chargers?

Dont know that,get it charged from a good reputed battery shop,it will cost you nearly 50rs.

Sorry .. didn't see your query sooner . I have made a battery charger myself from and old APC UPS . You just have to connect the UPS's battery terminals to your battery with some thick wire ( mind the polarity though ! ) . I trimmed the original leads of the UPS and soldered two leads of an discarded battery ( from the nearby battery shop ) , so I can just plug in my batteries to it whenever needed . UPS's are designed to keep batteries on constant trickle charge and have thermal regulation too , so you can keep your battery charging on it indefinitely , and it will maintain full charge properly . People seldom replace UPS batteries , they just buy a new one .. so u'll find lotsa discarded good UPS's at any computer shop/service . Note - never start the splendor without a battery in place (even if it discharged or dead ) , that'll damage it's electricals permanently .

thanks pinaki for this brilliant idea.never came this idea in my mind of making a safe charger out of UPS.I was worried of the battery getting overcharged,but now as you said it will be on trickle charge,gives me peace of mind.I already have a UPS in my house of my old PC, eating dust due to its dead inbuilt battery.
so now i need to replace the UPS battery +ve & -ve terminals to Bikes battery +ve & -ve without changing the polarity right?i opened the UPS today,the UPS battery has two terminals one has black wire & second one has red wire.so as per these color codes of wire which one is positive and negative terminal?

Yes right sachin'jee . We all have old discarded UPSs by now ... it's the only charging device that is designed to be left unattended & powered on indefinitely that I could think of in consumer products .. so the idea . Safety first when dealing with AC 220v and specially if you are going away while it's kept powered on . Overload protection and a fuse is build-in to every UPS , should you spill your tea on it too or you have pets at home like I do .
For your safety and clarity I am attaching these few pics I clicked just now of the setup . I've used this to charge or maintain upto 12 Ah rated battery , both lead-acid & SMF type . UPS maintains the trickle charging correctly monitoring the battery and ambient temps as it was originally designed to do for indefinite periods ... as far as I could tell with my cheap mutlimeter . Some UPS's need to be turned on to start charging , this APC one does that just with the mains power on , not needed to be turned on even ... safer .. since then the UPS output plug-sockets(220v AC) are not even powered on ... something we don't even need here .
I also use this system to Discharge batteries safely . All you need is to turn the UPS on and put a 25-100 watts household light bulb on one of the UPS output power sockets , and then ... turn the mains power off ..... UPS will discharge the battery in a controlled manner .. to it's safe maximum discharge depth . A new battery needs to charge-discharge cycled at least 10 times to arrive at it's full capacity and last long . This is Automatic enough for me .

This is the behind of my old APC ups with the battery compartment cover removed . You may have to open up the case of your old ups to access the battery contacts . You'll be safe to remove the mains power first and the old battery then .


Connect longer wires , good thick copper ones too by snipping off and soldering . Take care to firmly secure the joint from exposure - with heat-shrink tubing or good quality electrical tape .


Add end connectors of the type you need -- here I am using the original type from the UPS ( for UPS batteries ) and plug-in m/f bike battery terminals ( snipped off from an old bike battery , colour code is got reversed here , but as long as you remember the original output +/- , it hardly matters thereafter ) . BLACK wire from UPS goes to battery -ve(negative) , RED wire from UPS goes to battery +ve(positive) . Again , tape or heatshrink the joint properly .
Just remember - RED is always for power .



That's all folks , did my Splendor+ carb last weekend , DIY coming up as soon as I find some time to write it out . cheers .

I don't quite understand why hero 100cc bikes,which ranges from 38k-55k have so much price difference as the engine is same in all their 100cc products starting from cd dawn,cd deluxe,splendor plus,pro to passion pro..Do the change in looks cost so much?I'm very curious to know about it

It's something to do with market segment targeting , as taught in management classes , read up what Dilip Bam writes about it , it was somewhere on the net , he is an avid biker as well as a management prof .

pinaki,will do the connections as per your guide.currently searching for suitable connector for battery terminal for easy connection and disconnection.
one more thing,the bike's user manual has given a procedure for installation and removal of battery.manual says that to remove the bikes battery,first remove negative terminal and then remove positive terminal and when you want to install the battery, first connect the positive terminal and then connect the negative terminal.(i.e connection is in reverse order of disconnection)
what could be the reason for this?

Sachin'jee Plead with you local battery-wala guy .. he'll snip off a give you as many connectors of any type you need for free from the many old discarded batteries he has . He needs only the scrap lead from those .
Dunno why this order of things in the manual ... must be something silly . Just follow it .. now that you tell me .... I have been connecting the positive terminal last always and got some tiny sparks there then .... will do as you say from now on . Thanks .

As promised, this is how I tried to clean up the recently overflowing carburetor of my one year old Splendor+ . Although specified in free services , HeroHonda service centers refused to do this on my bike during free services . I have shunned those jokers since my third free service . Everyone advised me NOT to tamper with the carby myself , so you've been warned too now . I was having to turn off the fuel petcock every time I stopped the bike for sometime .. else the carb drain-tube would drip and the bike smelled of gas all over . The end of the drain tube was gummy .. so I feared that there would be gummy deposits inside the carb too . I am a lousy mechanic . Many many moons ago , I would clean up the simple Spaco carb of my Vespa . Learned that from my Dad who used to zip around on his beloved original Vespa 150 in his younger days (with me standing on the foot-board infront) . Also done the mikuni on my RX-135 once or twice , but I forgotten the details of that .. I had my mechanic with me for that . I've purchased this Splendor+ last July , despite having other bikes mainly because I wanted to learn and tinker on it ... they say it is an easy to DIY bike .... so I had a very ill-informed go at it anyway . Read up the scant info on the net about this carby ( keihin PB) and got great help from our dear PSR'jee ... thanks to all .Please correct my mistakes and feel free to criticize . Best thing is after all my tinkering the bike starts up and runs like "makkhan" and doesn't overflow anymore today . Fuel is costly today guys , no ?

1) Drain the carburetor - pull off the drain-tube at the bottom of the carb bowl , place a little bottle there and unscrew the fuel-drain nut with a flat blade screwdriver gently . Through out this operation please BE GENTLE with the carb and when you use any tool on it , it is soft aluminium alloy and will break or deform with little force . Cap the bottle and store the drained fuel . Sorry for the underexposed 2nd pic -- thats the drain nut ( recessed screw head ) in there .





2) This is the laborious part - Check with the owners-manual , it's written there so I did not replicate it here how to do . Ask me if you have any doubts about any step .
Put bike on main stand . Take off both the bike side panels with key . Remove the battery far away . Undo the two bolts on both sides that secures the seat , #12 spanner . Take out the seat . Undo the one single bolt that secures the fuel tank to the frame #12 spanner . Turn the fuel petcock off . Disconnect the fuel-level sensor wire jack from the harness ( right side ) and the fuel Pipe that goes from fuel petcock to the carburetor , a little petrol may spill . Move backwards and lift off the fuel tank and keep on some kind of padded surface . Then take out the tool-box/first-aid-box thingy .. it is secured to the frame with two bolts on the right side , #10 spanner or better still a #10 T-spanner .



3) Now you have the carburetor exposed for service . Inspect it carefully , how it's attached to the bike and with what appendages . Also mark the position of the Idle-screw (left side) and AFR screw (right side) with a fine point permanent marker pen lest you unsettle it and lose your settings during the service . That's my old faithful max-100 in the backdrop .



4) Pull out the thin tube going from the air-box to carb now .



5) Unscrew the top cap where the accelerator cable goes in . It will have a spring inside and jump off the last few turns of the thread , with the needle valve & slide with it . Note that the slide ( black cylinder kinda ) goes back in there in a certain directional way while re-fitting it later . Wrap it with a piece of cloth & let it dangle there safely . Later dry clean it with clean cloth , grease the throttle cable end and spring sparingly . I have no pics of this springy thingy , sorry .




6) Unscrew this screw with a phillips driver and loosen/undo the clamp on the air-box side .



7) Unscrew these two nuts from both side very carefully with a #8 spanner ... the swan-neck engine intake manifold ( tube thingy ) is fragile . Slip out the two bolts ... a black plastic insert will slip out .. clean & store it in a small plastic bag . Also note the way it goes into that gap between the carb & intake manifold ... one O-ring on each mating surface .



8) Now the carb is attached only to the air intake hose loosely . Pry it off .. that rubber hose is flexible enough for it . Be careful that the carb may not just fall off the bike .. that will be bye bye carby . tip - Hold it firmly with with your other hand .



9) Plug both the exposed air-hose & engine intake manifold with suitable pieces of clean lint-free cloth . Cover the bike and take away the carb to a clean place you can work on it . Use a cloth padded soft surface to put it on and work on it . You don't want it scored & scratched up . This is how it looks like .



10) This bowl at the bottom of it is the float bowl .




11) Carefully undo the two screws holding it to the main carb body with a phillips driver . Store the screw's & washers safely .




12) Take out the float bowl . Gosh ! it's dirty in there !! ( not much .. can be a lot worse .. as I soon found out .. more on that later )



13) Inspect carefully in there and remember it for future re-assembly . Take pics if you got a memory like mine . Pull/push out the pin holding the white plastic float to it's post there . Gently take out the float . A small float pin valve thingy will come off with it . Remember how it is attached to the float .. though this is really simple . Check if the float is leaky , then it'll have some petrol inside it and need replacement .













14) As psr'jee knows well I was apprehensive of unsettling the factory set float level with my tinkering ( I measured the level externally and marked it beforehand for this fear only ). That's about the only serious thing you can ruin during any carb service .
NOT POSSIBLE HERE !! This simple Keihin PB carburetor as used on the splendor doesn't seem to have a way to adjust float level here ( where it is usual ) . It is factory fixed !! Marked with marker pen and fixed to correct level at factory it seems . Solid plastic .. no movable joints/parts .Thats sweet news for lousy mechs like me .



14) These are the mainjet & the smaller idlejet besides it .





15) Unscrew them gently with a large flat blade driver using as little force as possible . These are soft brass . While screwing them back on afterwards gently hand-tighten them until snug only . DO NOT over-tighten !!



16) The mainjet & it's holder tube usually comes off together .Separate them carefully .Unfortunately the bolt-cut part of the holder is in-between a #7 & a #8 and couldn't get spanner hold on it . So I wrapped several layers of cloth around the bolt-cut part and grabbed it whole in a plier grip and unscrewed the top one with a large flat blade driver like so . Very little chance of damage then , even if you slip tools like I do .



17) I inspected the the carb well and carefully removed all rubber o-rings and plastic parts I could find . There were only a few like this .. so . Try wood toothpick . Carb-clean & acetone can damage some (not all) rubber/plastics . Wasn't taking chances .



18) I gently cleaned the rubber and plastic parts , the float , float pin valve, o-rings in a bowl of hot water & tide powder . This solution is a mighty good cleaner . Dry out all water before re-assembling .



19) Next time i am gonna buy spare for this particular o-ring beforehand cause it's a PITA to clean . It is fixed to it's groove with some mighty strong rubber adhesive and that doesn't wanna come off . Eventually had to soak it in a cap-full of kerosene for hours .. even then !!



20) I also measured the engine intake side hole (venturi?) at 22mm @ really ancient calipers , removed the O-ring there , wood toothpick again .. no adhesive here . ( as you can guess , this measuring here is totally faltu timewaste unnecessary )



21) Then I blasted all the other parts and holes of the float bowl and main carb with carb cleaner , against the advise of our dear psr'jee since I couldn't find any CV type rubber diaphragm or other rubber/plastic parts in there . You can use ordinary iso-propyl alcohol or acetone too .. but I found the propulsion of the aerosol carb spray canister really useful to drive the dirt out quickly . Use copious clean cloth to wipe off every spray . Use gloves and keep far far away from face & mouth ... the stuff is canned cancer . Don't smoke or keep exposed flame / sparks near it .. it burns better than petrol .. way better .




22) blast through the jets like so ... use a blower of some sort to blow thru again ... you gotta get all those holes clean . never use wire . you can use a thin plastic bristle plucked off a plastic floor/toilet brush to poke thru the tiny tiny side holes of the jets . you should be able to see light thru them all . Close tha large hole at the other end with finger while spraying , then the cleaner will blast thru the tiny side holes ... keep away from face !!



23) this is as much clean I could get the float bowl .. the most cruddy gummy dirt was in there . it took several rounds of carb spray and wipes . unscrew the drain nut and clean it with carb spray , blow some spray thru the long overflow tube too .




24) This O-ring /gasket was factory fitted in it's groove here with rubber adhesive -- pretty strong one at that !! I just flowed some dendrite in that groove and stuck it back there .. good enough .. no leaks yet .




25) Successfully reassembled everything else back clean in the reverse order .



26) Well .... I didn't at once put everything on the bike back in ... wasn't sure the engine would even start up after my tinkering .. so I fixed back the carb as it was , just hung the fuel tank there and attached the fuel tube and air-box tube .... turned the fuel petcock on . then put back the battery ( never start splendor without battery in place ) ... turned key and kicked it a few times . AND it started right up to an smooth and easy idle .. glad I didn't mess with the Idle & AFR screws during service . Can adjust those afterwards .. even take them out and clean them from outside if need be .

Unpredictable things always happens on sundays . My best friend called up .. "what's doing? " "bike carb cleaning" "i'm comming over to help" .. and in 30 odd mins he arrives in his car with this neatly wrapped in towel on his side seat ... made me do this then for him ... what help are friends for ? LOL . It was a really cruddy one from his pyaari wind-125 .. a mikuni BS-26 I think . It has a rubber diaphragm thingy in top (CV-carb) and a leak in it too . It wasn't idling .. now after cleaning only it purrs gently like my cat ( couldn't get a rebuild kit for it yet - anyone knows about mikuni Ucal BS-26 kits ?? ) Well, atleast he brought some beer along with this for cleaning it . Sunday gone . My hands are still feeling clean from the carb-cleaner 3 days later - use disposable gloves please .



Mods please excuse some popular abbreviations I have used to keep things short & interesting .

Great work pinaki ji!!want to know when should one decide to do carb cleaning,after certain km or what are the indication that indicates that carb requires cleaning?

This is the first time I done this on my splendor+ and there wasn't much dirt/gum in there .. just a thin layer of varnish barely starting in spots . Unfortunately there was some on the float valve thingy ... possibly from the very stale petrol that I siphoned off my idle rx-135 and used once lately . So I was having an overflow problem ( the valve wasn't closing fully) . One indicator I found here for my problem was a gummy sticky wet looking tip of about an inch appearing at the end of the carburetor drain tube hanging underneath it . With the level of dirt I found in the Splendor's carb , unless you have got an specific issue indicative of a problem pointing to it ... it would be just fine to clean / service it once every two years or 12000 kms , by my estimate . My riding conditions here are very dusty & bad .

But I would highly recommend you all to do it yourself on a sunday .
1) the splendors carb I found is super simple & easy and the access to it is straightforward so you'll enjoy it .
2) minimal tools needed , other than the bike's tool-box -- a #8 spanner , common carb cleaner , some household implements . To make things even easier/quicker .. get a longer phillips(star) driver & a #10 T-spanner if you can .
2) no way even amateurs can mess it up without using brute force .
3) no mechanic or service center will do such a thorough job of it - they usually just open the float bowl and clean the jets with petrol without removing the carb from bike . Firstly petrol is unlikely to clean well the varnish that was deposited by petrol in the first place .....
4) even if you mess it up real bad , the rebuild kit is 200 Rs and the whole carburetor 1200 Rs AFAIK . Widely available .