Very detailed explanation Pinaki ji,kudos to you.BTW is it safe to use carb cleaner on the BS 29 carb?

@ Pinaki Ji

Nice DIY and explained very well. Keep it up.

Pinaki Ji That was a very detailed,accurate,clean DIY of Carburetor cleaning I had ever seen.I followed the Pictures more than the write up because they were so profoundly informative.....I did read the write up the second time I went through the post again...Thanks for a most informative post...
For your Friend's UCAL BS 26 ,since it is manufactured by Ucal in India, the spare rubber skirt with throttle slide will be available with either UCAL dealer or with Bajaj...




As a stop gap adjustment, you can stick the small tear with same Dendrite you had used , on both sides of the skirt, and it will remain flexible and vacuum proof..
Wait for the applied Dendrite to become fully dry,...may be 5 to 6 hrs in the Sun, before fitting in the carburetor.

Request mods to move this to the DIY section

@ Pinaki - Hats off to you first. Your post on carb cleaning is just awesome . Keep up the good work. The pictures and write up is very informative because even a newbie like me could understand this easily. This write up even tempts me to fiddle on my bikes carb to be honest, I salute you bro. And thanks a lot for the post .

Pinaki Sir,
Guess am going to trade my ZMA for a Splendor after all.

Yes , if you are sure that you've removed all rubber & plastic parts or O-ring gaskets etc from it . Carb cleaner I used (cyclo) is acetone only with a gas propellant .
If you get enough time to dry it out throughly for day or two with sunlight in clean drying area , the solution of original Tide powder in hot water proved to a very safe & excellent immersion cleaner ( with toothbrush scrubbing ) for carbs for all metal & plastic/rubber parts . With the large number of rubber parts BS29 has, I'll suggest you this cleaner only . You can finish off jammed jets etc metals with carb cleaner .
TIP -pluck off a bristle ( thin plastic strand ) from a toilet brush and use that to poke clean carb jets safely . NOT metal wires !
LOL .

Thanks .. I'll be glad if you get help from my lousy effort . It's not difficult DIY for a newbie .. there is a lot of myth and FUD , mostly spread by half-witted mechanics/service-centers about motorcycle maintenance . Part by part , I'll try maintain this bike by myself only , hoping to do the cyclinder-kit replacement one day , when the time comes . This was the original idea behind my buying this particular bike . What the heck ! I thought .. I'll buy a new one if I manage to ruin it .

Just wanted to share this as i read somewhere,that petrol once filled from fuel stations should be consumed within one month because petrol then starts deteoriating & forms varnish and hard deposits there after forming blockages inside the jets & other fine clearences as it happend with pinakiji' s carb.i think this is the lesson we should learn.

good friend on road

I own a splendour since last nine-ten years,used for almost 125000km till date.but there is not a single incidence of breakdown on road.

Consistent performance from 1st day of purchase.I am getting 67 kmpl irrespective of driving conditions.Drive in city traffic or on highways.Fuel efficiency remains same with regular service.

Planning to buy a new bike,had a test drive of new glamour but i observed the pick up of my old bike is same as of new bike.

It is superb bike from hero honda

@pinaki
Not only i have in depth knowledge on splendor but also on almost every bike because when my friends are fed up with their service center they turn towards me for help then either me or my mechanic helps them.
So i have opened up almost every bike and serviced them.
more over my mechanic always encourages me to do DIY stuff and always guides me over phone.
He is more like a friend rather than a mechanic.
Within a day i will post many maintenance procedure for hero Honda bikes and how to keep them performing at their peak performance.
Even i can post a DIY of complete engine overhaul but sadly i have no one to take pictures for most DIY stuff that i do after hands get messy.
Shortly i am going to upload the longest ownership review in ever in xbhp.
my joy which has run for 2.75 lacs will be posted here along with pictures of it and you all will be surprised to see that it is in its factory original paint and still shining like fresh out of showroom.

p.s-Please I would like to ask a help from you all in getting spares for my bike because the service center here are hopeless.

Thanks Shibun'jee for your attention . Nowdays I am preferring to move around locally on splendor+ rather than my cbz-x and older bikes cause i) light weight & easy handling ii) it's almost new iii) i'm almost old . Would be grateful for your directions for a few things .
1) procedure for correct tappet settings .
2) procedure for correct carburetor tuning . (my tuning is a bit off now since the cleaning .. stalls sometimes rarely . Also it is lurching forward abruptly on increasing throttle . I guess it's running a bit too lean now) .
3) What are you using for chain lubrication ; grease or oil and which type ?
4) what engine oil do your recommend for it ? your climate is very similar to mine .. i.e hot & humid . I ran on motul 3000 4t plus 20w40 instead of recommended 10w30 ,all this summer . Very good results .
5) procedure for lubricating ball-racer in the steering cone . ( mine is got a little stiff after this monsoon )
Any other tips for newish splendor rider ?

1. Regarding tappet adjustment it is given in the owners manual itself. Follow the step by step procedure and if you have any problem then ask me.But before adjusting first see it from a mechanic as tight tappets cause greater damage to engine but loose tappet only creates noise and causes no damage.
Splendor engines don't require tappet adjustment for as long as 50,000km or till the top end is opened. Only adjust the tappets if hammering sound is heard from the head else don't touch the tappets.
2. Regarding carburettor tuning it is same for all four stroke bikes. And the lurching is there because splendor/passion/CD series bikes use largest venturi size carburettor among 100cc bikes. They use PB18 carburettors while others use PB16 carburettor. Since you have cleaned the carburettor you know where the idle screw and air screw are located. Ride the bike for 10-15 minutes so that it is sufficiently warm and then rotate the air screw till it is fully tight and don't tighten it hard as it will strip the threads. Then increase the idle Rpm till it sustains and bike runs. Now turn the air screw half turn and u will see the rpm will increase. Slowly go on turning at about 1/8 of a turn till the idling is highest. It should be in between 1-1/2 to 2.25 turn.
now decrease the idling by the idling screw by switching on the headlight and depressing the clutch till the slowest rpm is attained at which the engine runs.Then switch off the headlight and leave the clutch and suddenly within a fraction of second rotate the accelerator to full and again leave it and you will see that the bike will give hiccup as if it is not getting petrol.Then you will know that the tuning is perfect.
3. For chain lubrication i use sae 90 grade gear oil and it is perfect for chains.
However i clean the chain and sprockets at every 10,000 km and lubricate it with sae 90 grade oil. My chain sprockets last for 65k - 70k kms. While going for replacement always go for rolon or diamond and not original as some originals are coming with hero chains which gets damaged in 10-15000 km.
4.Yes motul 20w 40 is best for hero Honda but i use shell advance vsx 10w 40 semi synthetic and drain it at 3000km. Never use 10w 30 as it creates vibrations and shortens the bore life.
5.Ball racers cones are are not lubricated and they are changed at once. Rotate the handle slowly on main stand and if you fill that in the straight ahead position there is a slight dip on turning slowly then your racers are gone.Hero Honda comes with two types of racers. One is splendor/passion/joy/CD-dawn/CD 100 and the other is new CD dawn/new CD deluxe/pro/glamor/achiever and the difference is that the new model comes with bigger racers and cage balls are there as a result there life is high and they can be re lubricated by inserting new cage and balls.
the old model comes with only racers and balls and the racers are small. due to low quality these racers are damaged quickly. My father's new splendor+ racer was damaged in 10,000 km. Never replace with original racers as it will also cause same problem. Instead in my joy i use skf racers for HH. they come in two types.
1. ball-racer- Rs.230 and is same as OE racer and last really long for about 30-40000 km
2. ball racer with cage- Same as old model but the balls are mounted on cage and thus the handle becomes much free and presently i am using this one. Rs.320
Another cheap alternative is "top" company racer which is Rs.100 and i was previously using it and now using it on my father's splendor+ and this also last for 25-30000 km.
Please can you help me in getting a joy petrol tank and side panels and if available i can go to kolkatta and buy it.Although my paint is still like the day it came but the bottom of tank is welded due to rust.
And since i bought a new cbz xtreme just 1 month before so i am planning to restore it to showroom condition.

This is my joy 2.7 lacs km run still in its factory paint and top speed on speedo is 110 kmph.
mileage is between 78-85 km pl.

Thanks sibun'jee for your help .
1) Tappets are making minor tik-tik noise sometimes , not always . It usually occurs when the bike has had a fresh oil change(few days) and is not warmed up in the morning . It goes away after warm-up and oil circulation and does not occur later in the day . So I can safely skip tinkering with it now ?

2) Sorely lacking an RPM meter or hand-held one even (like they use in the service center), I think I have nearly arrived at the correct carb tune by trial & error . Lurching is almost gone now and the fuel mileage is at 71kmpl in 10-40kmph riding in congested city suburbs . Ok or should I go to the service center and perfect it ? ( I hate going to those greedy idiots for anything now ) .

3) My chain is Diamond make ( non-o-ring chain ). I used HP EP90 gear oil for chain lube from first day , but the problem is that it isn't staying on the chain for long because of throw-off. In one week the chain appears almost dry on inspection & is noisy . Also the lower part of chain seems to be vibrating sideways too much ( misaligned sprockets ?). Most of the noise is comming from the front sprocket , have not opened the cover to check it yet . Is it ok to replace the front sprocket only if needed ? Now after cleaning the chain and oiling with EP90 oil , I also applied multipurpose lithium grease (elf lex3) on it . Oil throw-off is arrested now . Lets see if this works well .

4) Ok , I am experimenting with 10w30 HH oil (tide-water make) for this winter only . In summer I loved the motul 20w40 mineral and will certainly switch to it again in summers .

5) No such "dip" with handle . It just feels a bit stiffer now since after this monsoon . I suspected the grease in the bearing must have become hard or washed away and can be reapplied . So cleaning and regreasing not possible on the stock splendor+ cone set bearings ? SKF ball-race is direct fit on my bike ? HH service said to replace the bearing with stock ones .
Also note that I have changed my front tyre and rear tyre from stock (dunno if this might have affected the handle bearings ?). My front tyre is downsized to 2.5x18 mrf nylorib . This has made the handle very light and bike maneuvers easily in congested roads , which I need . The rear tyre is now standard size 2.75x18 mrf moto-c , it has enormous grip & bite in wet muddy off-road conditions . I switched tyres because I loved this combi on my rx-100/135 then, and I frequently have to ride in the rain in bad roads .

It is very reassuring to read about your joy . Though it is unlikely , because the model has been discontinued for so long now here and i don't see it on road anymore, I will surely ask around here if I can find those parts for it .
I don't know the specific problem you are having uploading pics here , but the way I do it is .. I downsize the images to suitable size with gimp and upload it to my picasa albums . Then I use the "insert image" icon on top and insert the URL for the picasa image . It works .
Yes the stock parts for my bike ( splendor+ july 2010 ) is not up to the standards of the old splendor model . I would certainly switch over to better quality more reliable parts as I go along with the bike gradually .It would be very helpful to get pics from you so that I can clearly understand the parts you said , and buy the correct ones .

This is my joy run for 2.75 lacs and is still in its factory paint even after 11 years. This photo was taken just two months ago.
Today i will write the complete ownership review but it will be a quite long one so please wait for some time.