LOL , Guess it was worth removing the stupid engine cowl with 'Premium Sport' written on it.

Can you be more specific as to how many km it has run and is the engine smoking.
If the engine is not smoking and has run less than 60,000 km then you can do the following:-
1. Change the clutch plate,pressure plate and clutch springs.
2. Open the head and de-carbonise it and polish the valves.
3. Clean carburettor and re tune it.
4. Change spark plug to champion - PRZ7HC
5. Check whether ignition current is proper.

From your problem i feel that the above work will make it perform like new and will not cost you more than Rs. 1500.

AMazing details Sibun'jee , my humble request to you to keep close to these pages forever so that we may always have you around to help .
Can that two-piece cover on the magneto side of the engine case be retrofitted to an 2010 Splendor+ engine ?
That would make it so simple to open clean all the gunk that inevitably accumulates at the front sprocket area .... gosh ! you are always giving me ideas .
Yeah , the pro model came out just after I had bought my bike in July 2010 . I need the bike to work better in low speeds in the congested city , mainly use it to run errands and scoot around for adda . Everyone loves torque at low rpms for that , no ? Toying with the idea for front sprocket with different teeth-count too , just for this . Couldn't care less for open-road speeds above 70kmph on this bike .

You could integrate a digital tacho dial into the fuel gauge space, the fuel gauge is iffy and of not much use . A low-fuel warning lamp would have been adequate for this bike .
Firstly - Welcome to the xbph forums and Splendor page . In addition to the things Sibun'jee mentions , have the air-filter attended to . I feel it's choking on your bike . The Splendor engine is quite sensitive to good airflow , I felt . Read this - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/633221-post85.html

Totally ! That thingy does little other than accumulate mud too .

Thank you. Here is the current status. Ran about 48k km and the engine is not smoking.
The piston was changed 2 months before( I came to know that yesterday ) Also the spark plug was burned last week and was not able to start, replace the spark plug with the new Mico Bosch one. (i don't know why it burned, but it was the first time replacing) Also i changed the Air filter 2 days before(cuz i thought it was the problem, also it was in a shape to change)
You are right about the clutch. Since the pistion is changed 2 months before. do i need to do the step 2? i Feel sad and angry at the same time to people who didn't care the bike. Now its all up to me.





Thank you. I changed the air filter 2 days before. but that didn't solve the prob.

1.Did you change bore/block along with piston and rings or re-bored the cylinder and used a over-sized piston ?
2.Did you finish a run in of at-least 500-1000kms after this repairing job?
3.Check if you are running to rich on fuel,tune the carburetor properly.
4.Are you sure the clutch was not replaced during this overhaul job ?
If it wasn't replaced,replace the clutch discs,metal/pressure plates and springs.

Even after this your bike doesn't regain back it lost power
Do a compression test both dry and wet and find out the leakage(valves or rings).
1.Replace valves / grind and seat them properly/polish them.
2.Re-check the condition of bore.

2 stupid questions - Did you oil the new foam filter elements correctly before fitting ?
What do you mean by "spark plug was burned" ? It was fouled with black soot ? or the electrodes melted or worn off ?

@iamshazz-He most probably meant that the spark plug got shorted. Change to champion plug and see the difference most mico plugs come defective and also duplicate. See that you are not using duplicate plug.
If you changed the piston then was the work done correctly. And 48k is not the right time for piston change as most Hero HONDA engine lasts for 100k without any problem. Your problem most probably lies in clutch plates.No don't open the head but re tune carburettor as when head accumulates some carbon the tuning needs to be changed. This is the secret why new bikes don't give mileage until 2-3 services are over as by that time engine would have freed itself and also a thin layer of carbon will have been deposited on head.
Also please open the airscrew of carb and see if the tip has any carbon deposit as carbon deposit on airscrew will mess up the air - fuel ratio.
@shoeb- Yes you can use a tacho. Get a bajaj caliber tacho for Rs.600 and use the connection of the trigger with the connection of pulsar coil to the cdi.
The tacho counts rpm by calculating 6 pulses from the pulsar coil.I will go for the mod on my joy but i cannot find the time.Even u can use cbz,hunk, Extreme tacho but don't use Dtsi tacho as they have two power coils.
@Pinaki- No you cannot fit the cover as they require three bolts for magnet cover and two bolts for sprocket cover. And it is not difficult to open splendor+ cover as it requires only two bolts.
Don't worry i will never leave xbhp and this thread as i plan to keep my joy forever.
I can help for any bike be it splendor,karizma,pulsar any Indian bike except bullet. But my work schedule doesn't allow me to remain online much time.
I have bought a extreme since September but still i am there to post the ownership review even my joy is pending but i will post both soon.
P.s- Today i am extremely happy as my joy has crossed 3 lacs km today while i was returning from work. This kind of running has been seen in cars till date but my bike runs like car.

Complete instrument console costs 600 or just tachometer part ?
It it is entire console then will the speedometer match with the original one or Do I need to re-calibrate it ?

Just by tapping the pulsar coil wire and taking it to the tacho will do ?
or Do I need to tap the cdi ?

Please throw some more light and few more tips will help me alot as I seriously need a tacho.
If this mod is successful then I will try this on Passion,twister and Shine.

Congrats,do post the MEGA review soon or post it in parts.
Eagerly waiting for it.

Ohh damn !! Yes I saw those two bolts but the only tool I've got for the job is this short L socket driver(socket wrench handle - both ends slotted), #8,#10 and #12 six-point sockets - ( standard parker vector pen kept in there for size relation )


Hopefully this will be enough to remove those two bolts and re-torque them again afterwards ? Also , is there any gasket between that cover to replace ? Then I have to get it before I start taking out bolts . Thirdly to take out this magneto+front-sprocket cover , do I need to drain the engine oil ? or the magneto isn't oil bathed ? Sorry for my ignorance - this is a new bike for me . an year and a half old and I am just beginning to learn it's servicing part . The front sprocket recess is caked with old grease and last monsoon's mud .
Congratulations on your Super-Joy . I'll be happy if I can run a bike for half that life .
Me too ! on both counts .

There are three bolts 8#.
Use a T spanner for easy removal,normal combination wrench will not work.
There is no gasket.
No need to drain oil,the magneto is dry type.
One cover has two separate partitions which prevents the oil from sproket to enter the magneto/coil.
Note-The threads are made of aluminum and gets damaged easily if you use a long handle or over torque it.
Just a little jerk while tightening is fine,no need to tighten it too much because it does not have to seal anything(oil).

Pinaki ji,
Can you remove the cluster of cbx xtreme and try it on your splendor ?
I am just giving you an idea.LOL

Thats is great . Think I can do it myself . Hav the #8 socket .
But this is same dimension socket driver handle as the T-type one , just L-shaped and you can slot in the socket at either end . If you slot the socket at the short end of L , you can exert a much greater torque than the T . Should work , no ?
LOL , now you want me break all my working fine bikes at once kya ?
Actually I'm wanting the hand-held digital rpm meter only , because you can use it on all bikes without tinkering with anything else and I just need it to tune engine only .

Hero Honda Passion

Passion's front fender(mudguard)has broken from the mounting screws on both the sides ,thanks to the numerous potholes , speed breakers and bad roads.
I have changed it twice earlier,even tried to fix it using araldite,feviquik but it does not stay in place for more than 3 months.
I even tried drilling two holes and attaching it using GI wire but it rattles at high RPm's.
New fender costs 600 and local made costs 280.
Is this caused due to faulty front shocks ?
One shock is going more than the other and causing the fender to break ?
Anyone having a permanent fix for this ?
Sibun,you can help me on this as you have done 3lac kms.

(BTW,Splendor's front fender is also broken but I fixed using feviquik )

Petrol Tank cap has a simple one way valve which allows air to enter the tank and displace the fuel used and prevents the fuel vapors to escape the tank.

Here is an interesting finding:

Many splendors(new) have defective tank caps, even new caps are coming defective.
Vapor loss is considerable during day time and in summers. I can easily smell petrol vapors.
Pls check your cap for defects.

Procedure to check :
There is a small hole on to of the cap ,seal your lips against the cap and try blowing air and then try sucking/breathing air through that small hole.

You should be able to blow but not breath air through it,then it is fine
but if your able to both the ways then it is defective.

If you are not able to blow air through that hole then your bike will hicupp and feel like there is no fuel left.

I guess you missed out this one http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post755985