Damn ! Damn ! Both places have the part and refuse to sell !!?? This can't be accepted ! I have bought few parts from Bansal just last month , no problem. The HeroHonda ASC of course has banned "over-the-counter" sale of parts nowadays, but I manage to get them give it anyway, have made friends there . Moreover the ASC is overcharging for labour .
This calls for a formal complain to HeroHonda regional office at kolkata .

Remove the lighting coil and show them.
OR
Tell them that you want a splendor lighting coil 4 hole walla.
(Try searching at local small spare part shops, at least they show some interest and give you respect)

SWISS or Original Hero Honda will do.

@Neel08- Stop before buying the ignition coil. Your problem is battery charging.Then do not go for changing the coil. I forgot to tell, there is a resistor under the seat just by the side of tool box which is fit to the chassis by a 10 No. bolt which when sorts causes malfunctioning of battery charging. It cost only Rs. 70 and your problem will go. If you can wait till Tuesday i will post photo and part number. Change that and your battery charging problem will be solved.
@shoeb- the stator plate complete will cost about Rs. 700 but his problem is the resistor. Let him first change the resistor and then see.
No, hero Honda has not stopped over the counter sales of spares but this is the policy of service center so that they can get bike for service because most people know the practices of service center and thus do not give them for service. It is for this that the sc has come up with this plan. Complain to the company.

19 guage wire will never give good battery charging.
@neel
Can you get a Multimeter and check how much DC current is being generated/pumped to battery ?

A good coil will generate 1 amp at half throttle,whereas a bad coil will not generate more than 0.20 amps.

Yes....the ASC at my place is the same one which I visit 3 years ago for the last time to sort out some other problem of this bike (As I remember I want from them a clutch cable,meter cable,front rear break shoe), they ignored me like hell and said that time we don't sell those stuff of your bike's model,we have new passion spare in stock....if you can afford buy a new bike,else there is no future of your bike....I remember that time was the CBZ Xterme relaunch (analogue model) with visual upgrade (which is Red/Orange rear wheel with clear back led and clear turn indicator) in the market & there are plenty of them line up for service....they are feeling proud of those. Now they are like deserted place 2 0r 3 bike came for servicing....but they still not able to change their attitude.


sibun bhai.....I'm quite like your this post, though as a complete layman/noob perspective, I assure you there is absolutely 0% problem I faced with this lighting coil & after light intensity bump which came as recoiling I'm quite happy with it & feel hard to let it go.

All lights are working fine , it just can't charge the battery at night or when the H/L is in use.(and this only start after bike return from repair/overhaul/recoiled from the mech)....Yestarday I asked the mech if he done any alteration in the bike electrical, he assure me back with No.

This is my personal feelings (layman kinda), that lighting coil or alternator what is called produce enough power but it misuse some where else (if it helps any). Please note this bike is in stock condition...never done any mod or anything.

Yes, I can wait man.....I'm really grateful to see you all people try to hard solve my problem, I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.


If this info going to help any,

I have a digital multi-meter at home which regulating nove pointing at DCV=20 option (if needed I can post that multi meter pic here),
just a week or two ago test the output from 2 node (Red & Green wire) of the bike after starting the bike without battery connected..... idling

it give back 3.80 volts as the reading....and same goes 3.89 volts if I increase the throttle(No change if the H/L on or off. Here my query, is it not something must be nearly 10-11v producing from there ?

I told the above info to mech,but he declined said my test is wrong it not prove anything, the actual test reading must be conducted by battery connected with bike's terminal,then I questioned how is it possible to insert the muli-meter probe, he said it need a very thin special pin-type probe.

Please let me know if any thing I need to mention, BTW how to test amp ? please guide.

Here the bike visit at mech place before clicking the coil pic(shot yesterday)...it is 2001 HH passion 1st gen.

Remove that mud guard,it will restrict airflow to the engine.

Take a 10cm wire and cut it half,strip both the ends of the wire and insert in the connector and take it outside.
Now use the multimeter(On DC 20v setting) and probe it on the extended wire.



Are you referring to about this thing ?



Then that is a Regulator/Rectifier unit and not a resistor !!! (Please don't think that I am proving you wrong,Sorry)
It does not go bad so easily,unless someone reverses the battery terminals.

To check amps-
Please post a picture of your meter.

Let me explain why your battery is not charging properly.

There are three poles in the alternator
THe left most and the middle poles are for lighting the headlight,console,taillamp on AC.
The Right most coil generates current to charge battery.
Always remember-More number of turns gives more voltage and thick wire gives more current.

There are two problems associated with re-winding this battery charging coil.
1.Thicker wire gives less voltage and when AC is converted to dc there is voltage drop,hence battery will not charge.
2.Rewinding it ticker wire more turns to compensate for voltage drop will interfere with the igniton charging coil.
Observe the picture,there is less distance between igniton charging coil and battery coil.

Hope it clears all the doubts.

There is nothing to feel sorry, it is a part of discussion and we can learn things only by this way.
No, i am not referring to that. I very well know that it is RR unit and rest assured hero Honda RR and CDI doesn't get damaged easily. Mine is the same that came from factory. Wait for me to post the photos and part number on Tuesday. Every bike has this resistor and this problem causes undercharging of battery.

Here the meter looks like...please let me know how to check amp...forget to mention battery is 2.5 ah Exide bikerz

Full res if needed If the attachment is too small




The right hand side one which is responsible for battery charging is that one in the chain side....right ? As it seems the low volume of wire...Re-winding going to help ?

As you post the pic in the post no 400 of this thread the 2nd pic of the coil which I found the wire used in that coil is thin....so due to thick quality wiring hampering the battery charging due to ac-to-dc conversion ? Thats the culprit ?
But due to thick quality AC voltage got bump up and so the head light increment ?

If I understand correctly.....

Ohhh...my god .....

Strange,It is not even mentioned in the diagram.

Offline for some days & Missed so much good things .

@ Neel Sibun is right there is a resistor under the seat near the left side of grab rail holding bolts .

Open your seat , look for the wiring sockets above the tail lamp backside .
As per my bike the pink wire is for that resistor disconnect it .

It is there Above_ALL,The resistor is a 67 Ohms 20 watt.
I disconnected it but there is no difference in light or battery charging

Hi,

please review my wire....here are two shots after opening the seat....all those I can find....please let me know which one I need to disconnect ?

What happen if I disconnect ? Please let me know

full res

You will not notice any problem in battery charging immediately. It will charge normally but ampere will be less and once the battery goes down then the bikes alternator cannot charge it. Also the resistor acts as a dummy load and boost the current to the battery.
It serves as a alternate ground and do not disconnect it as it may cause overloading of your wiring and burn it all.
Please wait till tuesday, i will post both resistor part number and 4 hole coil part number.

How much a tyre can be excepted to perform well ?
Tyre is MRF Nylon 2.75/18 which came with my passion when i purchased in 2002 . Completed 54,000+ km in 10 year with no puncture yet not even opened it .


Check the attached picture , i edited your picture to point out wire for the resistor .

After disconnecting just start bike & accelerator & check if you getting some more power to horn than when its connected .

In my bike case that wire got disconnected in early days within year , but the result i got is very good . Stock exide battery lasted for 4 years & the Delhi made MF battery is still working , its been 6+ year , with a pair of roots vibrasonic , roots windtone & rainbow lamp . No problem faced .

Just given a rest to the battery for 2 months when i converted to full DC now back to stock setting . & the almost dead battery with very low voltage due to rest back to normal with alternator charging only .

But when i connect that resistor its drains battery with no use of any horn . But no problem when i disconnect that resistor & use all 4 horns at same time .

Now its upto you , try it or not .

Will be looking for service manual of Passion if i found will post the details .