Please post it, if possible can you list some of the Hero Honda's OE parts and their suppliers ? ..

^^
@Sibun
Please post a complete list of parts for reconditioning the engine of my Feb'2000 model Splendor and the approx cost. I am planning to get it done shortly.

Feel and handling are MUCH better than the original 2.75 X 18.00 tyres and soaks up bumps. This may be the maximum upgrade possible, though I would not recommend it for the front. In front it may cause minor speedo errors due to the increased sidewall height. I also feel this size tyre, even only at the rear, may put increased load on the clutch.

My average continued dropping after this tyre change, though I could not be sure this was the reason. Bike had done 75K KM then, so the reason may simply be engine wear. The original FE was 72 - 74 KMPL which started tapering off somewhere around 65000 KM mark, and by the time this tyre was replaced I was getting 62 - 64 KMPL. The tapering off continued and now stands at 52 - 54 KMPL, with the odo at 100900 KM.

Yes impulse has odd rim size , but that tyre come in 18 inch rim size , check this post http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post807168
The pattern is like M62 at low cost .

The OE suppliers to hero honda are:-
1. Bore kit- Presently it is produced in-house by Sal(sunbeam auto limited, its own subsidiary) and quality has gone down drains. Previously it was USHA or GOETZE.
2. Clutch plates- It is also produced by in-house by FCC RICO(its own subsidiary). Previously it was Japanese. The present clutch plate is of very good quality but the problem is that we get same quality by MAKINO at half rate.
3. Clutch housing, brake drums- it is produced by FCC RICO.
4. Gears- It is also produced by hero and they also supply for BMW bikes.
5. Brake shoes and pads- It is supplied by ASK. Previously was supplied by ANL. The present ones from ASK are good but problem is that the NON-asbestos are useless and cost double. Instead go for asbestos model shoes or go for ASK or ANL as they provide shoes for OE and you get for less than OE packing. Brake pads for CBZ are supplied by ANL but they are non-asbestos, so they do not bite hard. Instead changing to asbestos model of ANL or KBX will provide much harder bite and also will be cheaper. The karizma pads are of Nissin are of best quality.
6. Shock absorber- this is a tie-up between Munjal(its own company) and SHOWA(of Italy used in DUCATIS) and they are the best shock-absorber and no one produces better than them.
7. Bearings- they are supplied by SKF or NBC. Previously it was FAG(world leader in bearings for windmills). My Joy came with FAG and the rear wheel bearing is still going strong at 3.1 lacs and has no play or vibrations. The front wheel bearing was changed at 1.8 lacs as there was some vibrations felt on handle bar but it was not damaged and could last for another 1 lacs.
Go for FAG bearings from authorized distributors.
8. Meter and cables- They are supplied by JNS or PRICOL. The cables are supplied by suprajit or remson.Previously it was supplied by Pricol and believe me they were best. Present cables are also good and if possible go for remson or suprajit. Pricol cables are not available because they are very costly.
9. Chain and sprockets- They are supplied by HERO,DIAMOND and ROLON. This includes timing chain and drive chains and sprockets. Previously timing chain was supplied by DID. In 100 cc company gives sometimes HERO but in 125 cc and above it is always DIAMOND or ROLON. In 100 cc sometimes in OE packing you get DIAMOND or ROLON or HERO. SO it is more like lucky draw. Better go for respective brands.
Since your bike has run for 1 lac km so open the engine completely and overhaul it.
After opening clean the engine completely with kerosene and lubricate the engine bearings with clean engine oil as they will immediately catch rust if exposed.
Parts required are :-
1. Bore kit- Go for USHA kit for splendor. I recommend USHA because it is far better. If going for OE then do so at your own risk. Cost- Rs.1450.
2. Valve kit- Go for OE and it will consist of two valves and oil seal. Do not touch the guide as most lathes will destroy the head in installing guides. They do not wear out so soon and are still good in my bike. Cost- Rs. 360.
3. Clutch plates- Go for OE as they are of good quality or go for MAKINO as they are of same quality but at half price. cost- Rs. 328 for OE or Rs.180 for MAKINO. If MAKINO ask for oil-dipped plates. If going for original then soak the plates overnight in new engine oil. This will increase their life.
4. Timing kit- this will consist of All the timing items. Cost- Rs. 500.
6. Crank- Recondition it at a reputed lathe rather than changing. Cost of con-rod for OE is Rs.500. But do not go for OE as it will create sound very soon. Go for HR brand. Cost Rs.650. This you will not get instead tell the lathe to fit best quality connecting. If you want change crank for Rs. 3050 but it is waste of money as your present crank will accommodate 5 oversize connecting before needing replacement.
7. bearings- Change the main bearings(crank bearings) to OE or SKF. No other bearings require change as all others will not have a scratch even. Total 2 bearings cost- Rs.350.
8. Change clutch housing and GEAR pinion teeth(small gear connected with the clutch housing to transmit motion from crank to clutch.Cost- Rs. 1060 for housing and Rs. 160 for GPT.change the clutch springs and pressure plate. Cost-Rs.120 for springs and Rs. 77 for pressure plate. If clutch center is worn then change it.
9. packing kit, oil seal kit and o-ring kit. Packing kit- Rs. 350, o-ring kit- Rs. 157,Oil seal kit- Rs.220. Buy a head packing as kit doesn't contains head packing - Rs.110.
10. Change rocker, tappet screws. No need of changing valve springs and camshaft. They do not wear out.
Find a independent mechanic or if your friend will work out independently then take his help. As working it in ASC will increase your cost by Rs.5000.
They will not work the crank in lathe but will replace it. They will also change the oil pump, camshaft, valve springs, clutch center which are not required at all. Since they are not required they are slow selling items and thus ASC change them to pocket some cash and clear their stock.
So my advise is to do it outside if you know good mechanic or get your friend to do it one sunday at your home. Collect all the spares and do the work. It will not take more than 5 hours. only the lathe will cause delay. If you require any work other than engine or have any doubt then ask me.

@Sibun
I got makino clutch plates for only Rs.120 and the cover had some oil.
So was it pre-soaked or just a protective layer of oil ?

What is the best way to check rear-shock absorbers and what is their avg life ?

My mechanic said the new valves will have to be seated in the guide at the lathe. Are you sure this is not necessary? Can we replace even the valve guides with new ones, perhaps?

He also says the con rod in my bike will be of good weight and nothing would have happened to it, and it may at the most need to be worked in the lathe a bit. Is that so?

He has a workshop near my home and says if I get all the parts on a Friday evening, he will do the job right in front of me during the week-end.

Actually the valve are not seated in the guide but on the seat on the head. The guide act as a channel for the valve stem to operate. OE guides are available but they are not plug and play. It requires extensive work at lathe a and most of the time i have seen they damage the head. There is no need to change the guide as they have not even got any scratch.My bike at 3.1 lacs km is still on its original guide and will last for another 3 lacs easily. So rest assured that the valve guides do not require replacement. Actually your mechanic meant that the new valves will be polished with the valve seat at lathe. Usually i or my mechanic do the valve polishing with hand but it is very labor intensive and take from half hour to sometimes two hour. So mechanic usually they give it to lathe and they polish it by using drill machine. They will take Rs.150 as charge for polishing.
Actually con-rod doesn't get damaged. It remains same but the crank pin and the big end roller bearing wear out and cause play. Excessive play will cause sound. But crank pin and roller bearing are not separately available so you have to change the con-rod. OE comes in std. size and no oversize crank pin. So you have to put 1 size over and your lathe will do the needy. Just tell them that i am overhauling the engine so redo the crank and put new connecting rod of good quality so that it will not make any noise. If you will not change the connecting then the increased compression will increase the wear and will make noise. And for connecting you will have to open the engine again.
IS your mechanic trust wothy. Then tell him to take the crank to lathe and repair it so that it will last for another 1 lac km. And be seated with him when engine is fitted. Also take the spares when you go for engine fitting and not when the engine is opened.
Yes now-a-days makino provides pre-soaked clutch plates. You got it cheap because it is produced in Hyderabad and here it cost Rs.160.

For checking rear shock absorber depress the shock absorb hard without the main stand and see how hard it is. If it goes down easily then the shock has gone weak. Also a worn out shock absorber will cause wobble at rear with two person on board. Also you can know as when shock has gone weak then the shock will bottom out when you go over humps or deep potholes with two up and with a slightly high speed. Moreover with two up the rear will squat down more than before.
Life of the shock-absorber cannot be said because my shock was weak at 1.2 lacs km and i took it to a good reconditioning guy. He is quite reputed and does a fabulous job and provides warranty for 6 months on oil leakage. Then after 5 months oil leaked and i got it done for free only the steel rod for shock was charged as it was scratched and thus damaged the oil seal. Finally i replaced the shock at 2.4 lacs km and the second shock is still like new at 70k kms.

Pinaki jee

My mechanic friend here does the air filter cleaning by soaking in kerosene and after drying they usually dip the air filter foam in engine oil and waits for saturating ..after that they squeeze out the excess oil..but they do not roll it in the news paper for excess oil removal,,My doubt is by doing this will there be a chance of over oiling the filter...?...
And in my manual it says "air filter elemnt should wet but not dripping wet..what does it mean?..if we squeeze out the excess oil will there be a possibility of dripping?

Wow, that was very informative, thanks. Can we buy a new con rod set and use the crank pin and bearing from it with the old con rod, perhaps? Can the lathe work for crank be avoided this way? Also can you post a picture of the crank?

If it is rolled in news paper too long, too much oil can be removed!

Mechanics here clean the filter in petrol, taken from our own bike! So I normally do one cleaning in between services. What I do is clean it by immersing in kerosene. After gently squeezing out the kerosene, I will use plenty of news paper sheets to (almost) completely remove the kerosene from the element. Then apply oil drop by drop from an oil can, gently rotating / squeezing the element between my fingers to spread the oil. By experience one gets to know when it is enough. In fact I use 2T oil, though they use 4T engine oil in the workshop. It will be even better to have one clean, spare element which can be oiled and fitted immediately upon removing the dirty one, which can be cleaned and stored at leisure.

@ Gansan- do not worry about lathe work. Most lathe do so much crank work of hero honda that some companies bike do not sell as much. Crank pin requires removal at lathe as it requires hydraulic press. Also the con-rod will be worn out and there will be play. You will require 1st oversize and it is not available as OE.
removal of crank pin will require balancing of crank and also main bearings will be fit in lathe only. If he is your trust worthy mechanic then ask him to accompany with you to lathe and you can yourself see the work. Else contact chennai xbhpian who can help you to get a good lathe.
But do not worry a good lathe will easily do the work and will hardly take 30 mins. Usually two quality connecting is available. One is RS.450 and other is Rs. 650. Use the second one. Else if you are so worried then buy a new crank for Rs.3050 from hero honda. Go for splendor crank and not CD 100 crank.
But trust me go for changing the con-rod and say that put the best quality. Many company produce better quality con-rod and you should be worried about crank balancing. While assembling engine ask your mechanic to check crank balancing.
some company producing connecting are-
SICO - Sanjay Industrial Corporation
http://www.made-from-india.com/showr...ti-industries/
I will ask my mechanic more details and post it.

If you leave a little excess oil on the filter elements it shall drip off eventually in a couple of hundred kilometers and collect at the bottom of your air-filter box, and untill then your engine shall run a little bit rich fuel-mixture , baas that's it. No problem .
For all other steps re-read what I wrote here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/633221-post85.html . I wash the elements with hot detergent water after kero , the filter then should be bone dry before re-oiling . So I need a sunny day of drying time .

Never let them touch it with petrol , it damages the foam very much ... all my earlier foam filter elements crumbled to an untimely death in their hands because of petrol wash, which I have just now realised a few years back .
Well , that is exactly what I have done ... got a spare(OEM) set of the filter elements for Rs 86(total) only .



Sibun'Jee , what kind of maintenance should you do on the bearings , like the four on the wheels , one on the sprocket-carrier and the ones inside the steering column etc ? At what intervals ? As you know my bike came with a defective bearing on the front wheel , which I had replaced at around 500kms with NBC both-side sealed ones(both) . Now I feel that was a mistake since it's not possible to clean or re-grease both-side sealed bearings once installed . OE wheel bearings were one-side sealed ones(NBC) and OE sprocket-carrier bearing is both-side open (unsealed) one(have already cleaned and re-greased it once already as it was almost dry and became noisy) .

Any guidance for specific maintenance during monsoon from anyone please ?

Usually if the bearing has rubber seals then there is no problem in greasing. Open the seals with a thin screwdriver(used in watch shops) and lubricate it and then fit it back. Bearings once greased do not require to be opened and lubricated until and unless they are sub merged in water. My rear wheel bearing has not been opened till now and is sealed from factory. The front wheel bearing was not also opened till it was changed. same with sprocket bearings. What i do is i open the seal bearing and check whether the grease is OK. Then i put a few drops of clean engine oil on the grease which will ensure that they do not dry up. Once sealed after putting oil then they require never to be opened. In present case hero manufactures so much bikes that they do not have same time for each bike as in 2001 when i bought. So the bearings are not greased properly.
When i bought my extreme in September 2011 what i did was opened both the wheels and opened the rubber seal.Then i put a few drops of new engine oil and sealed the rubber seal. The rubber seal will ensure oil doesn't leak out and once they mix with grease it will never let the grease dry till you change the bearing.Regarding the cone-set, open it in 10,000 km and pack it with grease and new ball set from SKF. But do not take out the bearings from there positions as the cone-set will get damaged.
If you use SKF cone set then no need of opening them. I usually once fit the racer never opens them till they require replacement.
There are two racer set available for old model small type racer by SKF.
1. normal model as OE- Rs.240.
2. Bearings with cage for balls- Rs.320.
Change the racer to second type.
Remember to put few drops of oil in grease of bearings and they will never require greasing again.

@mods- Please edit the thread title to splendor/passion/joy/cd 100 ownership thread so that anybody doing Google search be directed here.

My rear wheel bearings(OE) are one way sealed type with the sealed side facing outwards as is usual . Yes I have removed the seal with fine jeweler's driver and regreased this type earlier too , no problem . The new grease just pushes out the old from the open(inward) side , and packs in well .
The problem is with two side sealed ones , if it is required to regrease , it's not possible to do it as with the bearing fitted on the wheel I can only remove the seal from the outward side . Grease doesn't want to pack in unless the other side is open too as the old grease does not have an way out , this had not occured to me when I bought them . My sprocket carrier bearing(OE) is both side open so I cleaned it with solvent & greased it quite freely . Anyway I shall try to solve it with your drop-of-oil method .
I do not need to change the steering ball-racer-set yet , just open it , remove the balls and clean it and fit new balls with fresh grease . That is possible on this splendor+ , no ? Just have to buy an sachet of SKF balls ?
Today I went hunting and found the champion brand plug you recommended . Rs 60 . And the NGK CR7-HSA is going for Rs 70 now .Prices are up for all spares . This is the one , no ?



I could not find ANL(allied nippon) brake shoes , but did find the ASK brand ones . Rs 65 for rear shoes and Rs 80 for front , did not buy it yet for some confusion . It is not written asbestos or non-asbestos anywhere on the pack . The pack is a small yellow box with red lettering(some japanese technology thing written on it too) . Is this the genuine pack for ASK ? ASK is as good as ANL etc or should I keep looking for ANL ? Please advice , will buy and fit tomorrow(sunday) after you guys confirm .

Yes,ASK comes in yellow box.

ANL comes in a greyish-yellow packet.
ANL has a Warning "Health Hazard !! asbestos is a known carcinogen "

@Sibun

I am facing this problem even before I changed to ANL shoes.

My splendors rear drum has few deep scratches and the OE non asbestos brake shoes does not last even 1000 km.
I am not able to get the recommended brake pedal free play,pedal goes all the way down and it doesn't have a "firm" feel.
If I adjust the rear brake nut, wheel binds at certain positions and makes some weird noise which goes away when the drum get heated up after some use.
I tried to sand it down but its of no use.

Where as in my passion I don't have to touch the adjustment nut even after 1500 kms.

I think my splendor's drum has warped. because few months ago someone splashed a bucket full of cold water on hot rear brake drum.

What could be the reason according to you ?