Splendor+ headlight has a very good reflector and has a very sharp cut-off.

Remove the black glare shield sticker.(If any)

Did you replace the bulb ?
(High/low beam)
If not replace it with Halonix HS1 35/35 (840/805lumens) *Recommended*
OR
Bosch HS1 35watt (825/525 lumens)

Loosen the two #12 bolts and slightly lower the reflector assembly depending upon your average speed.

No no Ravi'Jee , I am almost a novice with this Splendor+ , in fact it's the first bike on which I am doing the routine maintenance jobs by myself as far as possible , as I was quite fed up with the maintenance of all my earlier bikes in the hands of trusted mechanics and service-centers here. And I must say I am learning a lot from hands on tinkering and all of you guy's collective knowledge .
As far as the Splendor's headlight is concerned. you can fit the current Splendor+ / Splendor pro model's clear(bulging) lens and multi-focal reflector combined with a halogen lamp like the Halonix 35watts as Shoeb suggests . I have this exact bulb+reflector+lens on my Splendor+ now and it's ok for normal night riding . This way you can retain the bikini fairing etc like original .

If you are willing to lose the bikini fairing and go for a round headlamp , then you can just walk into a friendly HeroHonda ASS and ask them to fit with the current model CD-Dawn's round multi-focal headlamp with the same Halonix bulb . I have done all the research and this seems to be a direct & best fit and easy way out with all OEM parts . The round headlamp's focus & illumination is very good and it is adjustable without tools . It has to be so because Hero targets this model mainly for the rural market .
Other electrical means and modifications on these bikes seems to have the potential to make the bike unreliable in the long run, and in my book, the words Splendor and Unreliable does not go together .
@ SHoeb and Sibun'Jee - The two headlamp mounting tube+bracket(ears) for current Cd-dawn that fits on the top part of the front fork tubes is a direct fit on the Splendor, isn't it ?

Just by removing the taillight(5w) and pilot bulb(5w) and replacing it with LED, expect an increase of 30% in light output.

@Sibun
Why are you opening the bore and valves ? Regular maintenance or inspection ? What was the problem ?
Please don't forget to post the pictures of both before and after half overhaul.
"A picture is worth a thousand words"

Waiting for your post.

Hello Everyone,
I have a 05 splendor plus
Mileage-30,000 Kms

Some more info

Driven mostly in city.
Engine oil- Motul 3000 4t Plus 20W40.
Ambient Temperature- 42c+
Untouched engine.


There is some unusual grinding noise when I am 'releasing' the clutch from rest/halt in first gear.
This happens only when the engine is very hot after riding through city traffic.
There is no noise/sound when the engine is cold or warm.
Obviously gear cant slip so only thing which can make this unusual noise is clutch plates having irregular friction surface.

Some points to note-
I sometimes slip the clutch for a millisecond to build some torque to pull in city traffic at higher gears.
This bike has seen many "first time bikers" as my younger brother and cousins use it.

I somehow feel that clutch plates are the culprit

What else do you think could make that noise ?

(I am a new member,want to confirm if it is indeed the clutch which is faulty or something else which needs attention)

Firstly an warm welcome to xbhp forum and the Splendor page .
Sounds like clutch plates to me too, it's a cheap and easy to replace part. Replace it . Use a new clutch cable. While the clutch side case is opened, have the 2 oil filters in there cleaned too. Also check the chain & 2 sprockets for wear and correct slack . Clean and lubricate chain . That should do it .

Thank you for welcoming me .

Can I replace the clutch plates myself ?
(Mechanics here are idiots )

What else do I need to replace apart from the clutch plates ?

You can replace the clutch plates if you have proper tools but Please don't replace the clutch plates until Sibun(Experienced member) replies to your query.
Good to know that you want to do it yourself.

You will need to replace

1.Clutch plates
2.Steel pressure plates (If it has discoloration/burnt marks)
3.Clutch Springs.
4.Kick Lever Oil seal.
5.clutch cover gasket.
6.Oil filter strainer.
7.Centrifugal filter gasket.

If possible replace the nuts which hold the centrifugal filter.

Here is the procedure
1.Clean the engine and remove any debris.
2.Drain he engine oil.
3.Remove the clutch cable.
4.Remove the kick lever #10 bolt.
5.Remove the #8 (8 bolts) holding the clutch cover.
6.Gently Tap on the sides of clutch cover,there are two tabs hit it with a hammer slightly.
7.Remove the clutch cover.
8.Break loose the clutch #10 bolts(4 bolts),(you may need to insert something between the main diving gear and clutch gear) to stop it from spinning.
9.You will need a impact driver to loosen the Phillips screws holding centrifugal filter cover.(4 screws)
9.Remove the "special nut" by using a hammer and a flat head screwdriver.(I don't know if there is a special tool for it)
10.now remove the centrifugal filter.
11.Remove the four bolts holding the main clutch pressure plate.
12.Remove four springs.
13.Remove a "special nut" using the above trick to remove the main pressure plate.
14.Remove friction plates,steel pressure plates.

Replace the plates with new set,replace all the gaskets.
installation is reverse of removal.

Please note that I am not responsible if anything goes wrong.

@ Sibun- Is the procedure correct ? Please correct me if I am wrong.

Same as the ones I get here .
It is a quite simple procedure if you have at least seen how it is done . If you haven't , I suggest you visit a nearby HeroHonda ASC who lets you watch them work and let them do it . Carefully observe them . Next time round, you'll be able to do it by yourself just fine .
You can get by with fewer parts and tools even than what Shoeb'Jee listed .. once you have an clear idea of the job . Problem is , if you mess up a clutch job a tiny weeny bit ... it'll give you plenty of "chain-effect" troubles later on . That is what I learned from experience (i.e by messing it up once) .

You messed up ? On which bike ? What happened ? How did you fix it ?

I have listed all the parts which "can be/should be" replaced to ensure trouble free ride after clutch overhaul.(kalutch Over-aall as called by mechanics in Hyderabad )

I don't think any ASC will allow to watch the work because we all know what they do.......

@MSU
It is a simple job,any mechanic will do it.
Make sure you get good quality/original parts but please wait for sibun's reply.

Regarding the resistor it is present only in passion/joy/splendor and not in CD 100 SS. So you can ask for it. I had a discussion with my retailer friend and he said that the four hole model is stopped and you have to change the stator to two hole model. If possible find the same supplier that is original else you will need to change the magnet and stator as a whole. But first of all just disconnect the resistor and see the result.The resistor is connected to the RR and dissipates extra current as heat. but if the resistor is faulty it will draw current from RR and increase consumption. So just disconnect it. I had brought the part number but has misplaced it. I am sorry but do not worry i will get it today night.

Since you have changed the reflector which company is it. I am sure it is UNITECH. UNITECH have a very poor focus and check your earthing. There are two supplier for headlight. One is UNITECH and other is LUMAX. LUMAX has the best beam and please change it to LUMAX. Fiem also makes splendor reflector and is better quality. Fiem is OE supplier for TVS and you know the beam of TVS bikes and SCOTTY'S. UNITECH are useless in headlights. But they make best indicators and back light.
http://www.lumaxindustries.com/produ...-2wheeler.html
LUMAX are OE supplier to all cars and bikes in India. have a look at there website.They also supply after market in there own packing. Most of the products are not shown but they have headlights for almost all vehicles.
From your problem that you have reported, Power loss at warm engine denotes engine is running rich. A rich mixture will cause power loss at warm engine.However a compression loss also causes the same problem. A rich mixture has same symptoms as compression loss. It is because you are using the bike very less and the valves and rings are sticking causing compression loss. Use the bike more frequently and your problem will be alright. Regarding tuning see in this thread i have detailed the procedure. However if you want then i can give you two methods of tuning. One is normal method used by most mechanic and other is factory method. But for factory method you will require inductive tachometer.Do not fiddle with the needle as your bike has very less running and so not required.

Yes the headlight stays are a direct fit on the splendor but you have to remove the splendor headlight stay completely and reroute the wiring inside the dome of the CD- deluxe headlight.
Go for CD- deluxe stay, dome and headlight rim but instead of CD- deluxe seal beam go for Achiever seal beam. It is because splendor has parking light but Cd-deluxe doesn't have it. Achiever has it and the seal beam is same as CD- deluxe. So there is no problem. Wait for my photos of Joy headlight as it has best focus of all the bikes presently that i have(splendor,joy,pleasure, extreme, CD- deluxe).
No it is not regular maintenance. Remember never open bore until any problem is not detected. As for me i detected that my bike was leaking compression and mileage decreased from 75-80 k pl to 55-60 k pl.I doubted that the ring was not sealing the bore properly and thus was leaking compression. Once the engine warmed up the compression became so low that almost half accelerator was required for maintaining 50 kph. In joy at top gear only if you touch the accelerator slightly in top gear it will easily touch 60 kph. I usually touch 80-85 kph at half accelerator. So i opened and as i know my doubt is confirmed as the bore had become oval and thus the rings were floating. I changed to USHA bore piston. I have taken lots of photos and i am in the process of editing it. I will post it in next post and give the complete explanation.

Welcome to Xbhp and your query is common in splendors run for 30k km s.
First tell me are you suffering from clutch judder.
The symptoms are:-
When you release clutch slowly the point at where the clutch bites the bike will move with small jerks. If this is so then clutch plates required to be changed. While you have opened the clutch check the clutch housing, if it has any play. Since you have mentioned that the clutch was abused i am sure that the housing must have developed play.
But first reply then i will guide you to what to do next.Is the clutch Juddering?
@shoeb- there is special tools for opening rotor nut and clutch center nut.

Is it possible to change the four hole model to two hole model ? What is the meaning of the line as I bold on your quote ? If I don't find that supplier,which I believe I don't for that, I need to change the yellow thingy too on the top...right ? Please elaborate.




OK....I disconnect the resistor last week,last drove the bike this Sat (2/6) after dark with H/L on all the time with disconnected resistor about 70(+/-) Km,though battery was down that time, didn't realize any different, but when I'm near home, I found a slight horn response....I'm not sure though.

Now I fully charge the battery again as it was down after 3+ week usage.Anyhow heat is unbearable here in Kolkata,will try to test the bike in full usage (i'e Day & Night driving) when I'm able to do that....until weather condition improve.

As you said the you collect the part number, Is it for 4 hole lighting coil ?

@Neel
I told you battery charging problem is not due to the resistor but with the re-winded coil.
I have done done that, experienced that.

Replacing it is the only way to solve the battery charging.
With a re-winded coil you will get max 0.15 amps even at full throttle.
Battery will get slightly charged after 7-8 kms at this rate of charging.

If your magneto is denso made then you should get a new stator plate made by denso only.Otherwise there may be some "Clearance issue".
(Am I right Sibun ?)

@Sibun
Can you a picture of the special tool to open rotor nut ?
Please post all the pictures on picasaweb.google.com.
Eagerly waiting for it.

@Ravi
As Sibun mentioned in his post -lumax are THe BEST,they have excellent focus and very good beam spread at high beam.They do not fade easily and last long.(I use 100w/90w on my Tata Indigo and reflector is in very good shape even though it was made for 60/55w)

Thanks shoeb2015 fro quick response

new stator plate = yellow cylinder which is starter right ? which is responsible for bike to start.

As sibun suggested his post, Is it possible to change my 4 Hole Lighting coil to 2 Hole Lighting coil if I go for a change everything in the last pic I post ? Can you can you confirm ?

Hi,

question for all,

My mech once suggested that he can cut the horn and can connect directly to AC / magneto source ( this work will be done by a car electrician under the present of the my mech)....after hearing this I seek the help here and post my first que in this thread.

As I'm seeing/gathering no way to get the desired spare for this bike as it is old and out-of-production piece,

do you people recommend to take this route ? As the battery is only use for horn....Indicator don't work with low battery and rear stop light glow after applying breaks in very weakly.

So if I cut the horn and connect it to the AC/Magneto this bike become truly maintenance free machine (except fuel,engine oil)

Please suggest guys.....It may sound like scooter though from earlier days but I can live with that.

(Nai mamaer theke Kana mama bhalo)......Bengali

.(Na rahgi bash na bajegi bashuri)....Hindi.