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  • @all- i have been busy for an interview slated tomorrow.So i have not been able to reply to your queries.So as soon as tomorrow interview is over, i will reply to your queries.
    @shoeb- i have a better solution to your new bike dilemma which i will post after interview.
    Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide

    Comment


    • Originally posted by sibun View Post
      @all- i have been busy for an interview slated tomorrow.So i have not been able to reply to your queries.So as soon as tomorrow interview is over, i will reply to your queries.
      @shoeb- i have a better solution to your new bike dilemma which i will post after interview.
      Good luck for your new job interview.

      EDIT: Yesterday I had filled 6L of petrol and rode for about 15kms in morning,turned off the fuel cock.(Tank was almost full)
      Today I switched on the fuel cock and petrol started overflowing from the overflow tube.

      I was in a hurry so removed the carburetor from bike and then cleaned the float pin and mating surface and replaced a small tube(had kept safely in a box) which I removed from the float some months ago while cleaning it
      (Do you remember pinaki ji ?).

      Removal and fitting all within 2-mins flat.

      I think that tube came from factory itself because it is very nicely cut piece of very very small tube which is not available easily(2-3 mm diameter).

      Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
      I was cleaning the carburetor and found a piece of very small tube attached to the float end where the float pin attaches to the float .
      I Don't know who fixed it there(Maybe during the warranty period in 2004 ?),it also lowered the float height considerably.

      After removing that piece the engine is super-smooth and runs cooler
      I never knew that float height can make such a huge difference .

      Is it a common practice to adjust float level using small tubes ?
      Last edited by shoeb2015; 09-03-2012, 10:15 PM.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
        guys i want to make a tachometer myself
        I got one link where chip PIC 16F628 is used...I cant find this IC in my city if u can fine then please let me know its price i'll try to make this
        here is the link to a tachometer schematic
        Tachometer/RPM II. - Jose Pino's Projects and Tidbits.
        Did you ask for alternatives ?
        PIC16F628A is a very common 18-pin PIC,I got one for Rs.120/-(Price may vary).
        Look few pages back,I have uploaded tachometer schematic with C file(by Joseph Alukka)
        DO you have access to a PIC programmer ?

        Comment


        • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
          ... Yesterday I had filled 6L of petrol and rode for about 15kms in morning,turned off the fuel cock.(Tank was almost full)
          Today I switched on the fuel cock and petrol started overflowing from the overflow tube ...
          Classic symptom of a stuck float ... immediate remedy - tap the float bowl lightly with a screwdriver handle .

          Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
          ...I was in a hurry so removed the carburetor from bike and then cleaned the float pin and mating surface and replaced a small tube(had kept safely in a box) which I removed from the float some months ago while cleaning it
          (Do you remember pinaki ji ?)...
          Yeah .. but I never figured out what . Any pics ? This is really interesting if indeed fitted from factory .

          Comment


          • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
            Did you ask for alternatives ?
            PIC16F628A is a very common 18-pin PIC,I got one for Rs.120/-(Price may vary).
            Look few pages back,I have uploaded tachometer schematic with C file(by Joseph Alukka)
            DO you have access to a PIC programmer ?
            for what purpose u bought that chip? for tachometer?
            I couldn't find your schematic
            opps! I haven't think about programming...i dont have programing device
            can we make using something like this for example ElectroLabzz: Simple JDM PIC Programmer or http://www.electronicecircuits.com/e...pic-programmer?? The second one will work although it'll be very cheep to make
            If we anyhow able to make this then setting the AFR will be more accurate.
            Last edited by paul.1911; 09-04-2012, 12:21 AM.
            | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

            Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
            Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

            Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

            DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

            Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
            Engine Overhaul

            Comment


            • Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
              ..
              opps! I haven't think about programming...i dont have programing device ...
              I have access to PIC programmer ... and the files etc ... not finding time owing to some personal distress . Soon ...

              Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
              ..If we anyhow able to make this then setting the AFR will be more accurate.
              We ALL know that ALREADY .

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                I have access to PIC programmer ... and the files etc ... not finding time owing to some personal distress . Soon ...
                We ALL know that ALREADY .Yeah
                Did u buy or made yourself? cost?
                Who is working already on tachometer?
                | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

                Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
                Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

                Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

                DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

                Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
                Engine Overhaul

                Comment


                • My bike is running very good now after replacing valves...
                  I installed the head and done the valve clearance with .05 MM and start the engine..
                  and i shocked again when i hear the same valve irritating noise, without checking the valve clearance again, i re-tuned the carburetor and went to my nearest mechanic to show him that sound (he is at least better than anyone else here)...I asked him to checked the timing & was correct, he opened the tappet cover and found that it has excessive valve clearance...he re-clearance the valves just by guessing i asked him should i give a gauge (i took with me) he refuses that he dont need.
                  He charged me 20, noise gone. but i was not satisfied inside at all!!

                  I went to home, after the engine cooled down i checked the clearance and found that - Inlet valve has clearance but it was so much less that even a .05 MM was not passing through & the outlet one has no clearance at all..
                  I do re-clearance again myself and it all set NO MORE NOISE NOW

                  All in all, of what i've experienced in this past few days.. i learned how head mechanical system works and to DE-carbonize and lapping/polishing the valves which i haven't done in this 5 years of my bike driving. and its really very easy man all this possibly done with the help of you guys here, which have motivated me, given me a new confidence/enthusiasm of working with engine.

                  Thanks to the sibun for pointing out my mistake, i tried your ring wrench method for fitting the valve spring and it worked for me
                  Firstly i tried very hard, burned so much calories but was not able to, i exhausted...then I tried, I tried, I tried until i succeed & i wrap a big nut with cotton to put under the valves head so that shouldn't go down while pressing & i done it. I'm not having flat ring wrench so i done with normal wrench. There was no helping hand to set the locks, all i done is alone

                  Now, a question!
                  I dont know how long my racer has been running, may be 2 years ago.
                  Those are not worn out, its running good, but i'm in doubt that should I re-grease or not? It haven't been done from the day it has been installed.
                  | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

                  Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
                  Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

                  Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

                  DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

                  Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
                  Engine Overhaul

                  Comment


                  • Always set the valve clearance when the engine is totally cold,the bike should be allowed to sit overnight to get best accuracy.

                    Cone set does not need any lubrication in its entire life.
                    If you plan to lubricate it better replace the cone balls.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
                      Always set the valve clearance when the engine is totally cold,the bike should be allowed to sit overnight to get best accuracy.
                      I know

                      Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
                      Cone set does not need any lubrication in its entire life.
                      If you plan to lubricate it better replace the cone balls.
                      I'll get nothing replacing the good con set.

                      Do u've tachometer?
                      | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

                      Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
                      Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

                      Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

                      DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

                      Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
                      Engine Overhaul

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
                        I'll get nothing replacing the good con set.
                        Do u've tachometer?
                        Not yet,I am searching very hard to find a tachometer of any bike except pulsar's.
                        (Most of the shops which have tachometer in Hyderabad have only Pulsar's tachometer in stock.)
                        I think there is one place in HYD where I can get it,will go there one day.(35kms away from my place)

                        If I am unable to find analog tacho then the only option I have is to build a Digital Tacho and making it is not cheap unless you have a PIC programmer !!!

                        Btw,I Tested Old CBZ's tacho on splendor and it works fine.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
                          If I am unable to find analog tacho then the only option I have is to build a Digital Tacho and making it is not cheap unless you have a PIC programmer !!!

                          Btw,I Tested Old CBZ's tacho on splendor and it works fine.
                          How much pulsar tacho cost?
                          How do u connected the CBZ's tacho to splendor? I come to know the two methods while searching on the net. One is connecting wires to the ignition coil & another via inductive pickup method.

                          But building a digital tacho will be better not only it'll be cheap but also u can set more accurately the AFR than doing with analog meter.

                          I think, building a PIC programmer is more cheaper...i've posted the link on previous post.
                          | SOL 68s | Rynox Tornado Pro | Rynox Advento | Cramster TRG2 | Scoyco MC20 | Hero 5 and SJ6 |

                          Adjusting Tappets FZ25 www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhiJGtd_Xigl
                          Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AZ5MlXF7dc

                          Visit here for more DIY www.youtube.com/c/LifeofPal

                          DIY - Foam Air filter Cleaning & Oiling / Horn Repair Guide / Replacing Motorcycle Fork Oil

                          Read This Before You Buy Any Halogen Bulb
                          Engine Overhaul

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
                            @sibun
                            if my engine is as same type as splendor/passion then why it doesnt go beyond 80 kmph :-( having 42 teeth sproket & 3.00-18 tyre. Never ever gone, previously even it was 80 kmph on 2.75-18. In fact now it sud go beyond 80 coz of more diameter of a new tyre.
                            These are the speeds that i have obtained on stock bikes:-
                            Splendor(43T rear sprocket)- 100 kph
                            Passion(44T rear sprocket)- 90 kph
                            my joy(42T rear)- 110 kph.
                            Sp your CD dawn can easily touch 95-100 kph. If it is not touching then there must be some problem:-
                            1. Rich mixture at high speed
                            2. Low compression in cylinder
                            3. Improper firing at high speed.
                            4. Clutch slipping at high speed
                            Do a thing. Open the top of carb and take out the slide. Open the slide and take out the needle. See that the clip will be at 3rd position from top or bellow which way you will look. Now just change the clip to 4th position from bottom or 2nd position from top. Now fit back everything and restart the bike. See that the idling is smooth and the air screw is set correctly. Now slowly ride and see that bike doesn't hiccup in 40-60 range. If it doesn't hiccup then previously you are running rich.
                            Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                            No , didn't oil plug threads ... I think the plug was a bit under-tight because of the uncompressed washer on first fit . This is the first time opened plug after first fit . Now tightened .
                            Moreover I have to run the bike all day in 1-3 gears with really frequent brake-clutch-shifts at low rpms , sometimes at 10-20kmph on long stretches . City traffic is worst on monsoons , broken-up potholed roads . So carbon is building up fast , must be on valves, head and piston too .... bike is at less than 12k kms and I am considering a head decarb already .

                            What about the chain lock trick ?

                            I tried leaner , yes pick-up improves a lot then .. but but the engine heats up quickly too .. particularly badly with the HH 10w30 I have in it now . Next I have Gulf Synth 10w30 synthetic oil to try . Lets see.
                            No long rides ... just 2-5 kms short hops all day on errands and work . Today I got to ride 25(x 2) kms back and forth after weeks . So I filled with 2 liters of speed at reserve and blasted it at 70kmph to clear up the engine a bit . Couldn't go past that because of short roads , wet conditions and potholes .. risky .
                            For this little improvement , particularly in torque ... I am willing to buy a new CD/Splendor . I love torque . More torque at lower rpms is something anyone will love in traffic . No ?
                            New Splendor+ has the new engine type or only the Pro ?
                            The pro series engine has its own problem. Instead go for passion rear sprocket of 44T, your low end torque will improve vastly.
                            Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
                            I removed and cleaned the chain ,thanks to an un-expected bandh here.I will post it by 5pm.

                            I was also planning to gift my father a new bike (150cc+) but then dropped the idea because
                            1.He does not wear a helmet even after me telling him thousand times.
                            2.Rides mostly during Rush hour traffic.
                            3.Self-start will be more convenient for him.(Age-50)

                            So the best option I have is to sell the old passion and get a Passion Pro.
                            This way we will be having a Splendor with good highway performance and pro with good city performance.
                            In my suggestion do not buy a passion pro. Instead buy a super splendor or glamour. In glamor you get a disc brake.
                            Why i am telling to go for super splendor than passion pro is because:-
                            1. Cost- here in bhubaneswar the passion pro with cast wheels and self cost RS.55000 and super splendor cost Rs. 57000. So you get a bigger bike at same price.
                            2. The new super splendor has a broader tank, cbz model fuel filler cap, integrated rear grab rail and many other features.
                            3. While a passion pro has a low end torque and weak top end the super splendor has 10.35 NM of torque at 4500 rpm and also has a true top speed of 100 kph. So the low end torque will be better than pro and also you can easily cruise at 70-80 kph on highway.
                            4. Mileage is almost same.
                            5. Super splendor engine feels relaxed and even at 70-80 kph it feels like engine is barely ticking.
                            If super splendor is looking odd then go for glamor for 60k.
                            Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
                            Thanks.....okay no problem..i've no hurry even if it delay for a month.
                            I've driven more than 100kms on this plug before posting.


                            This is indication of my exhaust tip driven about 50 kms after cleaning.
                            its shining not wet as before. cant say if its smoking or not. any other way to inspect?
                            This carbon is common. Moreover since your bike was drinking oil before the carbon will be deposited in silencer which will slowly clear out in 1k kms.
                            Edit:
                            I open my head to replace the valves...here is the pic before







                            I've seen a circle mark/line on the TDC (red line is an example)....looks like done by rings
                            and dont know why bore is looking black....its a layer of oil which is black..
                            Is that normal??

                            I've completed 900 kms on this oil when changed on 27-jun Gulf 4T Plus 20w40..the color of oil is still red not black.
                            The bore is looking blackish because of excess fuel getting burnt. Run the engine with correct mixture and it will sort out.
                            and does this sprocket looks worn to u?? no?

                            These sprockets do not wear out soon because these sprocket only rotate at a constant acceleration and are always bathed by engine oil. Also chain remains always tight and thus do not jump and jerk. These sprocket usually last for 1 lacs without a sweat and i changed at 1.25 lac the first time and 1 lac the next time but still it was not worn.
                            I've lapped the valves...as u said first with coarse & fine using kerosene & in one direction. i spend lot of time on exhaust valve and after fitting the springs i put kerosene on the top to check for any leaks....nothing was happened till 10-15 min then leaved it for an hour, i find some leaks from exhaust...i opened it cleaned it, tested 4-5 times & leak was still there...i re-lapped again with fine...after leaving kerosene, i see very very slightly kerosene on the seat after 15 min...then i leaved it over night. after 8 hours...i seen that kerosene was there but its so so so less in valve seat that it didn't come out/fall down from it, and so in the inlet valve too...but level/quantity of kerosene was same above. I've perfectly lapped the valves there is no mistake, scratch, mark, debris or anything like that. I think there should be no problem if kerosene comes after 15 mins of wait & were its quantity was also same when leaved it over full night.
                            This is normal and as the engine runs for some kms the rapid opening and closing causes the valve to seal itself. There is no problem. After running a few km the valve will seat itself a little and seal completely.
                            Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post
                            My friend has a Yezdi D250 Classic(1969,IIRC) and I love its twin exhaust note,maintained very well by his father.
                            The same friend also has a 1996 bajaj chetak which he restored 6 months ago by spending more than Rs.15,000.
                            He later regretted that for the same amount he could have picked up a Vespa/LML and then restore it for the same price.
                            Nothing is a waste of money. If you love your bike then there is no wastage in spending money. Just last December, i restored my uncles BAJAJ CHETAK 12V ELECTRONIC to showroom condition and it cost Rs.22000 and every part was repaired. If you want then i can post a complete breakage of work done and photos also.
                            EDIT:
                            How many bikes do you have now in your garage ?
                            Originally posted by paul.1911 View Post
                            My bike is running very good now after replacing valves...
                            I installed the head and done the valve clearance with .05 MM and start the engine..
                            and i shocked again when i hear the same valve irritating noise, without checking the valve clearance again, i re-tuned the carburetor and went to my nearest mechanic to show him that sound (he is at least better than anyone else here)...I asked him to checked the timing & was correct, he opened the tappet cover and found that it has excessive valve clearance...he re-clearance the valves just by guessing i asked him should i give a gauge (i took with me) he refuses that he dont need.
                            He charged me 20, noise gone. but i was not satisfied inside at all!!

                            I went to home, after the engine cooled down i checked the clearance and found that - Inlet valve has clearance but it was so much less that even a .05 MM was not passing through & the outlet one has no clearance at all..
                            I do re-clearance again myself and it all set NO MORE NOISE NOW

                            All in all, of what i've experienced in this past few days.. i learned how head mechanical system works and to DE-carbonize and lapping/polishing the valves which i haven't done in this 5 years of my bike driving. and its really very easy man all this possibly done with the help of you guys here, which have motivated me, given me a new confidence/enthusiasm of working with engine.

                            Thanks to the sibun for pointing out my mistake, i tried your ring wrench method for fitting the valve spring and it worked for me
                            Firstly i tried very hard, burned so much calories but was not able to, i exhausted...then I tried, I tried, I tried until i succeed & i wrap a big nut with cotton to put under the valves head so that shouldn't go down while pressing & i done it. I'm not having flat ring wrench so i done with normal wrench. There was no helping hand to set the locks, all i done is alone

                            Now, a question!
                            I dont know how long my racer has been running, may be 2 years ago.
                            Those are not worn out, its running good, but i'm in doubt that should I re-grease or not? It haven't been done from the day it has been installed.
                            Its good to know that you have finally learn to do your maintenance on your own.There is nothing that can be done by you if you made the mind to do.
                            Usually after the bikes starts valve seat a little and thus tappet adjustment goes awry. Again after 1k check for tappet adjustment. Instead of 0.05 mm as stated by company use 0.04 mm gauge. It is better.

                            On the other note i had opened my sister's pleasure as it was not idling and drinking petrol like crazy. The faults were:-
                            1. SPARK PLUG GONE ad typical with NGK.
                            2. SLOW JET OF CARBURETTOR BLOCKED.
                            3. Air filter dirty- changed
                            4. AIR SCREW O-RING DAMAGED- CHANGED TO NEW AIR SCREW.
                            5. AIR LEAKING FROM AIR HOSE AND FILTER BOX- USED DENDRITE TO SEAL IT.
                            Also today i have opened the engine of my paternal cousin brother and but i didn't fit it and instead sent it to my mechanic to fit it because i was pissed of by both my brother and mechanic.
                            The reason is that my Cousin brother thinks that he knows everything and my mechanic thinks that i spent unnecessarily on different parts.
                            While i re-build engine i do it in such way that it will last for another 1 lac without opening.
                            But my brother and my mechanic both are stingy and will only change:-
                            1. Bore out the cylinder
                            2. Change of con rod reason for opening engine
                            3. Change the clutch plates, timing chain and timing guide
                            4. oil seal kit, packing kit, o-ring kit.
                            When both commented that if i sit and re-build then budget will easily cross Rs.10k, i got pissed and just packed the engine and parts in a sack and sent it to my mechanic. I also asked my mechanic to bring the engine and instead fit him himself to chassis as i will not fit. I do work on my own wish.
                            I am not a mechanic who work on customers choice, instead i am a mechanical engineer and work on engines for my hobby and help friends and family members to restore new performance. I do not compromise on the work nor i look into profit as i work in my free time and for my hobby. Otherwise i have my job which pay me handsomely and i have no intention of opening garage.
                            Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by sibun View Post
                              In my suggestion do not buy a passion pro. Instead buy a super splendor or glamour. In glamor you get a disc brake.
                              Why i am telling to go for super splendor than passion pro is because:-
                              1. Cost- here in bhubaneswar the passion pro with cast wheels and self cost RS.55000 and super splendor cost Rs. 57000. So you get a bigger bike at same price.
                              2. The new super splendor has a broader tank, cbz model fuel filler cap, integrated rear grab rail and many other features.
                              3. While a passion pro has a low end torque and weak top end the super splendor has 10.35 NM of torque at 4500 rpm and also has a true top speed of 100 kph. So the low end torque will be better than pro and also you can easily cruise at 70-80 kph on highway.
                              4. Mileage is almost same.
                              5. Super splendor engine feels relaxed and even at 70-80 kph it feels like engine is barely ticking.
                              If super splendor is looking odd then go for glamor for 60k.



                              On the other note i had opened my sister's pleasure as it was not idling and drinking petrol like crazy. The faults were:-
                              1. SPARK PLUG GONE ad typical with NGK.
                              2. SLOW JET OF CARBURETTOR BLOCKED.
                              3. Air filter dirty- changed
                              4. AIR SCREW O-RING DAMAGED- CHANGED TO NEW AIR SCREW.
                              5. AIR LEAKING FROM AIR HOSE AND FILTER BOX- USED DENDRITE TO SEAL IT.
                              Also today i have opened the engine of my paternal cousin brother and but i didn't fit it and instead sent it to my mechanic to fit it because i was pissed of by both my brother and mechanic.
                              The reason is that my Cousin brother thinks that he knows everything and my mechanic thinks that i spent unnecessarily on different parts.
                              While i re-build engine i do it in such way that it will last for another 1 lac without opening.
                              But my brother and my mechanic both are stingy and will only change:-
                              1. Bore out the cylinder
                              2. Change of con rod reason for opening engine
                              3. Change the clutch plates, timing chain and timing guide
                              4. oil seal kit, packing kit, o-ring kit.
                              When both commented that if i sit and re-build then budget will easily cross Rs.10k, i got pissed and just packed the engine and parts in a sack and sent it to my mechanic. I also asked my mechanic to bring the engine and instead fit him himself to chassis as i will not fit. I do work on my own wish.
                              I am not a mechanic who work on customers choice, instead i am a mechanical engineer and work on engines for my hobby and help friends and family members to restore new performance. I do not compromise on the work nor i look into profit as i work in my free time and for my hobby. Otherwise i have my job which pay me handsomely and i have no intention of opening garage.
                              ^^ Your mechanic is stingy or your Cousins's mechanic is stingy ???


                              Super Splendor seems to be a good option.

                              Can you list out some pros and cons of
                              1.Achiever
                              2.Glamour

                              In particular Highway capability,overall build quality,availability of spares,headlight,max alternator capacity.


                              Regarding spending on bikes.
                              I always get attached to a bike only -
                              If I spend considerable time with it,
                              If it has been used only by me or my father,
                              If I have some unforgettable memories associated with my bike,
                              If I have experienced/learnt something new on that bike,
                              If I have worked on it,
                              And Most importantly - If I am the first Owner of it.
                              This is the reason I will never sell my splendor even if I get a bike which is 1000X better than splendor.
                              It is a part of my life and I cannot part away with it.
                              (some of you may even laugh why the heck this guy loves his splendor so much)
                              The first bike which I rode was Splendor,this is the bike on which practiced all the riding techniques,this is the bike with which I talk to when I am very upset and riding on highways.This is the bike which has seen and been a part my good and bad times.Splendor is the bike which has made me a biker from a driver.

                              This is the reason why I love it so much,I think only Sibun knows what I am speaking.
                              Last edited by shoeb2015; 09-05-2012, 09:22 PM.

                              Comment


                              • ^^^^^^^
                                I completely understand how you feel.I bought my splendor 11 years ago. It was the first bike that I ever owned.I learnt to ride 'geared bikes' only on my splendor. It has been with me for more than a decade.that is sometimes longer than a marriage lasts. It is the perfect bike.not too big ,not too small.perfect power.not too heavy.perfect for city riding.great mileage.love every single thing about it. I will never get rid of it.

                                Sent from my rotary phone

                                Comment

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