No. U can ask anyone u have uses MRF...it skits very much specially in rain. Even a retailer suggested me to go for CEAT..although he was going to change its MRF tyre in his bike. I've used both but i found CEAT heavy grip to be have much much better grip than MRF even in rain.

Go for ceat or dunlop. Its because both these comes with 3 years warranty. I do not know about your place but in BHUBANESWAR there is no warranty on MRF tyres.
For your problem of current check the ignition timing using stroboscope. Most probably your pulsar coil is faulty which is retarding the current on increasing rev. Find a good mechanic and ask him to check.By the way was your pulsar coil opened before?

No never, its from factory. The spark is slightly red and i've checked on three more bikes they also have same kinda spark. Today i adjusted air screw and got after 2 complete rotation. and also checked the top speed the bike impressed me...it easily touched 80 today even i was going beyond but the road ended. I'm sure whatsoever i've done on these days have increased my bike performance
off topic
Dont know about the FE now. Previously when checked i got 55 then, what happened (i always check reserve to reserve) i got 40 kmpl then without filling more fuel i again turned to MAIN the bike ran for more 20 kms which means i got 68 kmpl. Dont know what this reserve system is not always correct. It happened many times...suppose when i'm with my mom & got reserve, and after leaving here when i drive alone, the bike ran for 10-15 km again on MAIN after RES. So, it makes me confuse, need a check many times again for a correct FE.

Do u really think there is something wrong with my timing? I dont have stroboscope and there is NO good mechanic in my city not even my ASC mechanic understands my problem, i know better than him.

@all
While driving on low speed, suppose on double ride i crossed a bump ahead at 10 kph and on 2nd gear when i release the clutch the bike create a noise like klack-click-klack
Why is that?
For your information...clutch plates are from OE have ran 8000 km. As far as i know, in clutch assembly other than clutch plates, nothing have been changed till now. Kick never slip, by chance, very often it slips but rarely.
I keep very low tuning...at lowest possible.
I driven my friend passion, i found its clutch smooth when releases, but not mine.

If it only happens when the engine is hot then check pressure plates if they are burnt/glazed/discolored heavily.
If it happens irrespective of the engine temperature then look for faulty clutch housing/bell bushes.

If it only happens when the engine is hot then check pressure plates if they are burnt/glazed/discolored heavily.
If it happens irrespective of the engine temperature then look for faulty clutch housing/bell bushes.

Don't forget to rule out the possibility of worn-out chain/sprocket.

Chain sprocket is also from OE same as age of clutch plates. Front sprocket has worn out due to the align of chain sprocket, its not correct somewhere its tight & somewhere loose. So it has got damage from the wall because of not proper adjustment. It create noise also.
I've washed it two times till now.

Downshift to first gear . Now you know why I love torque ?

I know and thats what i do...but i dont want that sound.

that sound is due to the bike being ridden in the wrong gear.if you don't want that sound,then use proper gears for speeds.

@ sibun, shoeb & all
One day i forgot to close the fuel cock and I got the solution of my starting problem next day
Actually the fuel from the float bowl is evaporating. Next day after turning the fuel cock to ON position and before starting the bike i waited for a minute before staring and it stared on a first kick without choke and didnt hiccup at all.
Next morning i check the amount of fuel without turning fuel cock ON. and the amount of fuel i got is 65% of what the float bowl normally carry.
So, almost 35% of fuel in a float bowl is evaporating every night....actually every minute because if i stand the bike anywhere for 2 hrs, the bike didn't start if dont wait for few seconds before kicking.
What should i do? From where its evaporating...I'm using a gasket sealant in a float bowl o-ring coz it cost Rs.800 here
Can u guys check the quantities of yours next morning?

Nothing much can be done,its 100% normal.
Petrol evaporates overnight because 1.the engine below the carb is hot and 2.there is a carb breather tube through which vapors escape,if you block it then petrol will not come into bowl.

EDIT:
Finally some hope of getting a parts catalog from a friendly neighborhood retailer.
According to him it needs to be ordered and he can get it for Rs.250/-,I have ordered one.Lets see.

OT-He also has a Activa Catalog in-stock,if anyone needs it PM me.

Today was a quiet BANDH day here in kolkata and I spend it cleaning out my best friends wind125 tank and newly-installed carburetor . It had about a liter of dirty water in it's fuel tank (was recently cleaned before installing the new carb maybe 15 day ago) so we are suspecting the petrol-pump from where we fill . Even the new carburetor(a CV type UCAL BS176-26) is of poor quality (compared to our keihins) and has problems . i) the drain screw is so tightly fitted from factory that we could not unscrew it , so flushing the carb from outside was not possible . ii) a phillips head screw fixes the float-pin to the carb body and was similarly impossible to unscrew , so float could not be removed . Cleaned it best I could like that only , which is not good enough .. some of the rusty water may still be stuck inside . I am thinking of using heat to trying to loosen those screws again ,since soaking in kerosene did not work . Is that safe ? Any other way ? Please advice .
Secondly , I am filling from the same petrol pump and did so same time with him that day . So I have to drain MY Splendor's fuel tank now .. on sunday . If he got filled with water , I have got it too

Soak it with brake fluid or
Try heating the body and use a ice to cool the screw.

OT-
Today we started the restoration of Kawasaki 4S champion which belongs my cousin.

When I drained the oil,I was surprised to see that only a small cup of 50ml could be filled.

After opening the engine-
Thick gooey like sludge everywhere,bore piston shot,camshaft bearings balls came out and rolled on the floor,Gear lever was welded to gear shfter,kick lever was welded to kick shaft.Had to cut it with a grinder.Con-rod had too much play,timing chain,rocker arm and camshaft worn out beyond imagination,cam shaft lobes size decreased by almost 5mm...........................

One hell of an experience,will start assembling this weekend as we have to source some parts.

Don't have spare brake fluid . Will try heating and ice on the float-pin-fixer screw . Trying heat here also has hazard since the float is plastic and cannot be removed beforehand . Damn ! The drain screw cannot be cooled since it is recessed about 3mm . But I am toying with an idea ... how about we replace the entire float bowl with the one from the old carburetor(which we have kept for parts) ? That one hasn't any problem .. provided it fits perfectly on this new carb .