@Shoeb-can you please tell me what is the resistance value of excitor coil or the charging coil of cdi which is inside the magnet. it is urgent as tommorow i will open the magnet to check the coil. so please reply if you happen to see at night or tommorow morning.

Got a new UCAL BS26 carburetor and FAG wheel bearings for my best friends wind-125 today, who has been pestering me for these long . Amazed to see that this bike takes two different type bearings on the 2 sides of the rear wheel ! Fitting on sunday . So you see how my weekends are gone .

This is the float level adjustment tang in other bike's carbs . In Splendor's (in mine at least) it's fixed - you saw mine . It determines the max level to which fuel rises inside the float bowl , before the float valve closes supply from tank . Moving it up or down in other carbs adjusts that level . Here somehow they were not able to get correct level at factory with the default tang position . Neither was it adjustable in this carburetor type . So they fixed that tube over the tang to change it's thickness , which shall mimic moving the tang upwards in the float -- i.e lowering the fuel level in the bowl . Without that tube fuel shall tend to overflow from your carb and your mixture shall be rich . Keep it on and carefully . If you lose it ever , it shall be difficult to get this exact same thickness tube to get the correct level . Same problem shall arise if this plastic float develops a leak and you need to replace it . New one may not have this adjustment .
Thanks for the slide needle circlip pic .

guys i tried removing this whitish thing with Motomax 2k rubbing compound.



I put the wet towel on the tank and leaved it overnight as sibun ji said
Next morning, i tried rubbing with hand and it was not coming out easily so i open my tank to use buffing wheel and this job was so so hard to done that it took me 6 hrs to complete when using buffing wheel...it was impossible to done by hands...but still the result was not satisfactory but better than before. New surface is more shiny.
Not able to done near the corners of the stickers and it was peeling off in a milli of seconds. I'll post the results.

It was the result of Teflon coating done by my brother
I need a pressing very hard to take out this layer...rubbing compound was not working at all. Layer is all over the tank and on other parts. There are some scratches on the side of it. I apply some rubbing compound and buff by hand, pressed it so hard that (white)cotton become warm but not a single particle of paint peel off form there not a single percent gain, scratches are still there

This Teflon coating is really a f***ing bullsit!
Dont know why he has done this mistake...and i'm paying for it.

Is there any other way to remove this bullsit coating by any abrasive method?
I searched on google but didn't find anything related to my answer.

EDIT:
This is old look


After working



Coating on the right side was thicker because of continuously heat absorption on the direct sunlight and therefore quit easily removed compared to the right side. Will work on other parts too.

If u know any easy (abrasive or spray bottle) method then please let me know.

I've checked it is already on 2nd position. Needle is from factory default.

Previously Posted


and do u know which company makes/supply original CDI unit for Hero Honda?

@sibun
Why are you opening the cdi/ign charging coil ? As you know It can be checked from the connector itself.
Resistance is 242 ohms.


@paul
Denso is one of the main CDI suppliers of HH.

@pinaki ji

CD 100's gear lever is a straight fit.

I am replacing that master link just to be on the safe side.

Only Denso or there is any other? coz i think i need a new CDI therefore knowing its original supplier will cost less.

I never replace master link..after all it last very long, my first factory chain sprocket last 50k and master link never required to be change.

Edit: Which is the correct position of needle? I found my in 2nd from top (its never been changed) should be in the middle?

Does a silencer needs replacement over time? I've been running factory one from 9 years.

Pull your bike's cdi and check the manufacturer. OE is Denso,you can get aftermarket CDI made by POWER http://www.masterignition.com/New/default.htm

Why do you think that CDI is faulty ?
Often times a Bad/old Ignition coil makes us feel as if the CDI is kaput.

Why replace something when it is not troubling ? Your's doesn't have a catalytic converter so its almost maintenance free.
I would worry only if it had rust or holes.

Because as i previously said, i'm getting light red spark. My ignition coil is not faulty coz i changed 2 years ago have run about 15k kms.
and has sibun also suggested to change it.
As i remember it was strong blue spark when ignition was changed. Also my ASC mechanic passion produces the same type of spark as mine...he said "aisa hi hota h" but i'm quite sure... need a check on some more bikes.

I asked because my silencer have thick layer of carbon on it. When i open it from head part i saw a thick layer of carbon in its mouth. So it surely have inside too....so i was thinking if back pressure or something may lowering my engine performance? Dont know therefore i asked it!

@paul- no need of changing CDI as CDI is not responsible for red sparks. Just change the exciter coil inside magnet.The excitor coil is faulty and will create great problems. From the photos you have posted your excitor is not providing enough current for the fuel to burn completely. That is the reason your engine is producing so much of carbon. CDI doesn't get damaged so soon and if CDI gets damaged then there will be no current. And by the way just do the ignition direct and check. Most of the time a faulty ignition key causes problem. But your problem is linked to excitor coil and nothing else.
CDI is manufactured by both nippon and denso as OE. when changing CDI go for only OE as other companies give timing problem. But do not change CDI and do the above method and report back.
Do the ignition direct and check and if not satisfied change the excitor coil. Your problem will solve.The photos of spark plug indicate that current is low and the excitor is culprit.
@shoeb- i have opened my magnet and changed the excitor coil. It was because as my engine was getting heated up the engine was feeling less rev friendly and also tuning was decreasing. It was because current was decreasing because of engine heating. When current is decreasing on engine heating then be sure that excitor coil is weak and will require replacement. At this stage it is slightly weak but if not changed one day it will give trouble on the road.
So low current on heating is a sure sign of need to change excitor coil.

@Paul
What is the make of ignition coil ?

Make? I bought it from OE @ Rs.219 that time.

Please check the Resistance of the coil when it is cool and when it is hot.
If too much difference is noticed in the reading then the coil is faulty.
What readings did you get ?

Already in cold state the resistance was more by 100 ohms than recommended and also resistance was varying each time testing but in new coil each time the resistance was same.Moreover i have enough experience with bike that just by starting the bike and hearing the sound i can easily deduce if current is ok or less.

Can you please find the part numbers of tachometers used in different bikes ?

What is the value of resistance on a new coil?

Edit: Can u please tell me the right position of needle pin?? I already found mine on 2nd from top (never changed). Whereas, on my friend passion it is on the middle.