I have purchased items from snapdeal.com on a couple of occasions. As far as I know its a reputed site.if you're still unsure about it,then opt for CASH ON DELIVERY option while placing your order. Money doesn't reach them unless you receive the product.

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I've seen that in my city in one car shop, he was having lots of polishing products but not that what i was searching for....a turtle wax!!

Turtle wax is available on ebay.many people have purchased from one seller and he is offering 100% cash back if you are not satisfied. Or you could visit triple w dot xenos dot co dot in and search for dealers in your region.

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Awesome! Simply Awesome! That is the main reason that I love this thread so much. It is like a 'granth' of practical info. Thanks man. really! Btw before opening the head, one has to take care of many things like of of them being, not letting the timing chain fall into the slot and retracting the tensioner to the correct tension. I have seen it in the tutorial video by Hero Honda. That engine was a Hunk/Xtreme engine in the video but I guess - head opening won't be much of a difference here. You've done this on a splendour, na?

Btw, when you're sanding the parts, you're essentially removing a thin layer of the metal, right? So won't increase in clearance/micro gaps be a problem here? How to ensure that unwanted clearances(s) do not pop-up? Any grease/packing material cannot compensate for a thin layer of metal that the part has just lost - as far as I deduce.

Man, you did the mistake of polishing the valves. Why did you grinded the valve faces and buffed them. The valve surface are rough because they aid in swirling the mixture so that air and fuel mix properly. Also by buffing the valve stem you just made the stem thinner. Now they will rattle in the valve guide at high rpm.
Some the mistakes you made:-
1. Valve should never be buffed. Remove the carbon from inside face and lap the seats of valve. The valve have rough surface to induce swirling in the intake manifold. By buffing and polishing you just removed the process of swirling of mixture. Did you not think why new valves have rough surfaces.
2. Buffing the valve stem- The valve stem is in close tolerance with the valve guide. By buffing you removed a layer of material and thus the valves will rattle in their guides at high rpm.
3. Buffing the combustion chamber- Why did you buff the combustion chamber. A slight roughness is their on the head and piston top so that the engine can quickly build a layer of thin carbon. A layer of thin carbon is beneficial as it increases dynamic compression. Have you heard people when buying new bikes say your mileage will increase after 1st servicing. Nobody knows the actual reason. The reason is that a thin layer of carbon builds on the piston head and roof of chamber and thus increases compression of engine.
Now you have cleaned the head and will tune the bike. Ride for 1000 km and then you will see the mixture setting will change after 1000 km. It is because of carbon deposit.
You must have left some roughness in order to build a layer of thin carbon.
Now let the combustion chamber be the same. But change the valves. Because these valves will sure create problem and will also create noise like tappet sound.
When using new valves first lap it with coarse compound and then with fine compound.
While lapping put kerosene for maintaining the liquidity of lapping compound as when they dry they will remove excess material from the seats.
Did you not think why we do not buff the valves and combustion chamber.
You could have asked us before doing it.
Ok, nothing is gone. First time mistake happens. You will learn from your mistakes.
Now coming to your problem. What caused quick carbon deposits:-
Your engine is running rich. Its because your exhaust valve is black in color and also your bore is carbon. Also your piston has soft carbon. It should have hard carbon.
See a photo of what should be the right tune:-

The head should have some roughness:-

See the valves, they should have the roughness on face to aid swirl in mixture. Also see how tight is the tolerance of stem. They are having slight scratch marks on surface:-

Thanks a lot already ordered from this website yesterday will reach in a week time..

Ya I've seen that its based on Core 2 Engine Core 2 Engine
I've CD-Dawn.....yes sanding with 220 & 600 removes a bit layer, but after sanding with 1500, 2000 it removes such a thin layer that u cant even see, its negligible.
No micro gaps will create a problem.....no grease or part is required. You need to do a valve clearance for sure, it has a adjustable screw and that is necessary to adjust with .05 mm gauge.

Holy shit
but my inlet valve was still having some back spots...
yes i feel less compression now
What if i put some scratch now with 600 grit in head? i'll buy new valves (i haven't seen the new valves)
Does a new head packing is also required?
I have not polish the piston...it is same. only carbon cleaned.
My engine was burning Mobil. I found damage valves oil seal, head o-ring too all changed

Edit: I bought the new valves. Actually the mistake was done because i was not familiar with the new valves that how they look. When i was grinding it, somewhere in my mind i was thinking...am i doing right?...without giving attention carelessly i thought i'm doing right. Moreover, i dont have spring compressor so i take that to 4 lathe to be fit. but all refuse it of doing it except one. but whoever seen that got shocked and asked me who has done this? from where u've done this? I told i've done myself. and said wow! one lathe guy asked me have u done IIT or something? I said no i'm frm commerce. There are too many of them and all looked to that and said what a finish! and lots of good comments but, i mean to say....NO ONE has told me its wrong what u've done.
I was wrong, i'm agree, well i was new to this but this also shows those who do this work everyday are lacking from knowledge.

Now i see the new valves have rough surface & scratch, which is mandatory.
But before i replace it.....i want to ask something!

1) Do u think (on looking to the old pic) my old valves was good to run for more kms?? Its 16k kms old.
2) When i start my bike in every morning and try to drive i feel like its not getting fuel....its like stalls for half a km then runs fine....if it stand for 7-8 hrs again happens...and that is happening from many years...what is the problem??
3) I drive my bike now, its running fine, after running for 25 kms i open the spark plug to inspect and found the circle area dark black carbon deposit why it was so now? is it a symptom of rich mixture?

I cant get spring compressor, one shop have it and asking for 330 which is too much for a non-working guy. I'll try to push it with ring spanner if i can do this.

What !! I thought only Ports were polished but valve polishing is something very new to me
The valve fillet of exhaust valve is having too much carbon deposit,showing very rich mixture.
Piston crown looks OK.
Oil gallery o-ring was re-used by applying sealant,not good.
Never sand or buff valve stems,if found severely discolored or scratched -Replace it.

The reason why your engine is stalling in the mornings is because-
Your engine is running on too rich,tune the carburetor properly and remember that it has a air screw not a fuel screw.
(sibun also confirmed the same about AFR screw earlier in this thread).

I would recommend you to use a new head gasket as this gasket would have compressed after torquing down the cylinder head bolts.

I got spring compressor for less than 200,bargain !!!

Ok guys, I understood most of part above (thanks to the informative and descriptive pictures). However, I am yet to fully understand what 'lapping' is. Googled but couldn't find a satisfactory explanation. I guess it has something to do with 'polishing' the valves? or rather the edge of the valves? And how is a suction cup helping lapping?

Paul1911: you shouldn't have deleted the pics wala post. After all, it serves as a reminder for the knowledge thirsty people on the forum - what not to do and most importantly, HOW not to do it. I firmly believe that mistakes maketh a man! It is better to commit mistakes and learn a lesson for life rather than take advise - easily available over the counter.
In any case, if one overlooks the mistakes made, it is a fantastic effort. Really. Hats off mate!

I understood that polishing have different meaning when it comes to the combustion chamber. Polishing is actually grinding/lapping the valves so that it can fit in its place completely known as valves seat. Suction is just a rubber cup, valve is stick to it, and we rotate it with hands back & forth to grind the surface using valve lapping compound.

Thats very true man Mistake is the Way of Success!
Actually if i see i've also learned something and mistake is i've to open the head again.
coz my previous valves are already gone and needed replacement. So there is no loss in buying new valves. but only thing i need to do, is to replace thats all.
but the good thing is i've learned the polishing.....i've never ever polished anything in my life, so polishing a valve ultimately gave me practice to how to polish things and i learned myself by doing this....all i've done is wasted my time in polishing those valves which were already crap/scrap.


But the thing i'm feeling bad for..
My bike is having a birthday tomorrow (24th) going to complete its 9 years....i thought to make it perfect internally & externally washing and polishing it with wax...to give it a new look....and wanted to do something (celebrate i dont know how) which i've never done in these 9 years....and i'm fail to do it what i thought. Where one blame is goes to this Jamshedpur where there is lack of availability of many products. You cant get even if u search the whole city.

Never think that you have wasted time in doing anything DIY.
It reminds me a quote/signature of
Lucky_Luke"When I do something stupid, my consolation is to know that I'll do the worse one only once!".

Now you have a experience which you will never forget.

Show all of us how good you can FIX it,we are all here to help you.

Thanks man

Ok, nothing to worry. Mistakes happen and we learn from our mistakes.
Do not open the head now. The head will get a thin layer of carbon after 1k km. Also do not worry about valves. Run for 1k and decide whether valves need to be changed.
By seeing at your head i can tell you are running super rich.
Tune the carburettor and you can find it in my signature. But before tuning see that air filter is clean and not over oiled.
If you clean the filter then do not oil it. dry it properly, fit it and run for 10-15 kms. Now tune the mixture as mentioned in my signature. from the point where the engine is running at highest rpm, then just lean the mixture by turning out the air screw slightly(less than 1/16th of a turn). Now just open the filter and oil it slightly.The reason for leaning the mixture slightly is because after some 200 km the filter will be slight dirty. so the slight lean will compensate for the slight reduction in air flow.
And regarding valves who told you that your valves were damaged. The same valves would have run another 1 lac km and if you want i can give warranty for it.But you just damaged it by buffing.
The carbon of valve surface would have been scrapped by a knife and cleaned with petrol and this would have been best.
Valve life is not determined by the inner or outer surface. A slight scratch or roughness is perfectly fine. Instead valve life is determined by the thickness of the valve seat. If the seat is thick then the valves are fine.
LAPPING OF VALVES: - When lapping the valves always lap in one direction i.e either the valves should rotate in clockwise or anti clockwise.Do not ever lap it in both direction.
What we do is we rotate in clockwise direction and when we rotate in opposite direction to return our hand we lift the valves so that they do not touch the seat. Then again we press the valves and lap it in clockwise direction.
So the procedure is:-
1. lap the valves
2. lift the valves
3. return your palm to initial position
4. then press the valves and again lap in same direction.
Usually my mechanic and we have so much practice that hand automatically lift the valve while returning the hand and again.
Repeat the process till satisfactory result is not opened.
Those who cannot do it and turns the valve in both direction can use a drill machine and attach the valve and rotate it. This will ensure lapping in one direction. Repeatably every 30 secs put few drops of kerosene to lubricate the lapping compound.
Usually using a drill machine will cause the work to be faster and uniform.
Important for lapping:-
1. for old valves - if the seat is not deeply grooved and just needs lapping then use fine compound. If the seat is deeply scratched then use coarse compound and last time fine compound. Fine compound is compulsory to use.
2. For new valves:- If the valves are new then just use rough compound and then fine compound.
And regarding loosing compression you are not loosing compression but instead you are running rich. For the information of all a rich running rich has same symptoms as a engine running rich.

Thanks sibun for informative explanation
I bought the new valves and i decided to open tomorrow.
Combustion chamber is too much black because i already stated the problem of engine oil coming to the combustion chamber. If a oil comes to the combustion chamber then dont the carbon will built up more. I too follow the same method to tune the carburettor.
And i'l like to know
How do i inspect if a new valves are lapped? How much time it takes & how much pressure to put while lapping?