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Kawasaki Ninja 250R
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Originally posted by xionite View PostTo be The Best, You got to beat The Celebrity...
xBHP Trivandrum ICE sheet
- RX 100 ('87)
- Ninja 250 ('10)
- Impulse ('11)
- Tiger 800 ('20)
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Check this site out : Shinto Racing - Your One-Stop-Shop for Kawasaki Ninja Aftermarket Accessories
Awesome list of accessories available for the ninja.ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!
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Originally posted by n_aditya View PostCheck this site out : Shinto Racing - Your One-Stop-Shop for Kawasaki Ninja Aftermarket Accessories
Awesome list of accessories available for the ninja.To be The Best, You got to beat The Celebrity...
xBHP Trivandrum ICE sheet
- RX 100 ('87)
- Ninja 250 ('10)
- Impulse ('11)
- Tiger 800 ('20)
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Originally posted by The Celebrity View Posthas anybody in the frum shopped frm here?! I wud like to shop few items. Any idea abt the reliability of purchase?
I'm not sure but I think Malliah has bought something from them. I've been toying with the idea myself.
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In a universe of men and machines, there is an individual who achieves the purest confluence of both worlds where he and the machine must become one - He is The Biker!
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Originally posted by sheelpriyeI had used Motul 300V in my Karizma once and to my horror the oil level dipped below the 'low' mark in about 1700kms, I drained the oil and forgot synthetics for good.(The color was BLACK)
But now, few people have been saying that in R15 there are no evaporation issues if it is a synthetic oil.
I know R15 is engineered differently, but can a fully synthetic oil be used for 4000kms w/o any worries(oil level and viscosity)? Would the same be true for high revving in-line twin or in-line four Motorcycles?
I do not want to top up oils in my Motorcycle, I would rather buy a cheap oil* (mineral/semi-synthetic) and change them more frequently.
*relatively speaking of course
What is the status of 300V in the 250R? Does it vaporize? Are you guys topping it up every 2-3K?
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I had first service done in the last week. They used Bajaj DTSi 10000 oil. I asked about the interval and pbk guys said that oil will last longer and can be used 10000 kms. After the service bike was damn smooth......but now it is somewhat rough. I read many reviews abt bajaj oil. everyone says it is a bad one...many guys changed that after 1500 kms in p220. personally am not comfortable with the bajaj oil made by HP.
now am planning 2 change the oil to motul. motul Semi synthetic or fully synthetic?..which one is better for 250 R? Can anyone suggest a good oil ? can yamalube semi synthetic used in 250 R? and whats the ideal interval to change the oil in 250 R? I dont think any oil will last for 6000 kms in indian conditions. Thanks in advance.
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synthetic oils are not good for the bikes at least for the first 10,000/- kms. this is due to the tight tolerances created by the oil on the already tight engine parts. it may spoil your engine.
better to put in ordinary mineral oil and change as per the recommended interval for about 15,000/- kms or so and switch to full synth oil thereafter.Mountain biking on impulse with my wife and our bike goes down in water
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...own-water.html
my saddle sore 1600k is official - the story
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ddle-sore.html
my space
www.harikesh.com
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the very property of oil is to withstand high engine temp , not to loose its viscosity and so it should not evaporate.
oil is leaking thru your piston and is being pushed out thru the silencer , yes in very small quantity making you believe in vaporisation.
bad part is that your engine seal between the piston rings and cylinder is faulty.Mountain biking on impulse with my wife and our bike goes down in water
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...own-water.html
my saddle sore 1600k is official - the story
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ddle-sore.html
my space
www.harikesh.com
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300v
My old Posts on 300V.
Also I didn't see a dip in oil level.. have done 6000 kms without changing the oil.
Originally posted by killer_instinct View PostHi.. I use Motul 300V FL 15w50 (Fully synthetic) on my Ninja.
The reason I changed was I was taking the bike to the track.
Frankly the bike behaves a bit sluggish when its cold... Once its really hot it makes very smooth.
If you are not planning to take the bike to track soon.. you may stick to semi synthetic which should be good enough... However if you do change to FS.. ensure that you warm up the engine for minute or 2 before you start ripping to avoid wear and tear.Originally posted by killer_instinct View PostThere is an authorized dealer in JC Road Bangalore who sells the Motul stuff and gives it for a good price too... no idea about Chennai
Simply speaking... you have to rip it really bad to enjoy fully synthetic... coz at low RPMs its sluggish. Lot of people had commented earlier that for normal day to day riding semi synthetic should be good enough.
I switched to 300v for the following reason:
"All 4-stroke motorcycle engines - racing bikes, very high temperature & rpm, off-road rally, trails and street use."
MOTULsigpicI feel like Clark Kent on the streets riding the Pulsar, On the track.. with my Ninja.. I feel like Superman.
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Originally posted by maheshkmr View Postnow am planning 2 change the oil to motul. motul Semi synthetic or fully synthetic?..which one is better for 250 R? Can anyone suggest a good oil ? can yamalube semi synthetic used in 250 R? and whats the ideal interval to change the oil in 250 R? I dont think any oil will last for 6000 kms in indian conditions. Thanks in advance.
From what i have heard Yamalube is not really good. So dont take chances, just go for motul.
+1. No oil can last so long especially in a high revving engine.
Better to change the oil in say 5000 kms and the oil filter every 10k kms. Thats what I plan to do. My first oil change was at 1000 kms and then switched to semisynth at 3700 kms. My odo is reading 7600 kms and at 9k will go for 3rd oil change.
Fully synth oil is recommended if you are going to thrash the bike on the track every other day (if the bike is ridden only on the track - track spec machine types) or if you have lot of money for the expensive oil that it is
Originally posted by sheelpriyeDoes the 300V evaporate with use*? This is what I wish to know.
*Specific question related to R15/250R as I can bet any amount of money that in a regular air-cooled Indian Motorcycle the oil starts to vaporize significantly post 1500-2000 hard kilometers.ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!
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Originally posted by maheshkmr View PostI had first service done in the last week. They used Bajaj DTSi 10000 oil. I asked about the interval and pbk guys said that oil will last longer and can be used 10000 kms. After the service bike was damn smooth......but now it is somewhat rough. I read many reviews abt bajaj oil. everyone says it is a bad one...many guys changed that after 1500 kms in p220. personally am not comfortable with the bajaj oil made by HP.
now am planning 2 change the oil to motul. motul Semi synthetic or fully synthetic?..which one is better for 250 R? Can anyone suggest a good oil ?
Originally posted by n_aditya View PostGo for Motul 5100 15W50 Semi Synth oil. I use this and have found it pretty good.
From what i have heard Yamalube is not really good. So dont take chances, just go for motul.
My first oil change was at 1000 kms and then switched to semisynth at 3700 kms. My odo is reading 7600 kms and at 9k will go for 3rd oil change.If you are not afraid, you have probably chosen too easy a mountain to climb!!
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Originally posted by pc2211 View PostSo can i change to semi-synthetic during the 1st service or advisable to wait longer?ATGATT - Because hospital ceilings are boring !!!
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Originally posted by n_aditya View PostEnsure you fill in good quality mineral oil at the 1000 kms mark. Semi synth is also OK as it is mostly composed of mineral oil. (75% mineral oil i guess).If you are not afraid, you have probably chosen too easy a mountain to climb!!
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Problem with spark plug.
Out on a ride a couple of days back, I faced my first problem with my Ninja. The bike suddenly lost all power and the engine started giving a low growl. Something similar to what happens when the fuel is running out. I could keep the engine running only as long as the throttle was open.
Luckily there was a friends place near by where I stopped for an hour or so. When I started the bike after the break it fired properly and I took off for the rest of my ride, during which I noticed only a very minor loss of power.
I checked the fuel as well as the temp gauge both of which were in acceptable range. I assumed the fuel to be the culprit (although I use only Shell Premium) and forgot all about it till my next ride.
The next day the problem came back again and it was much worse. After running a few kms, once the engine was hot the problem re-occured. I took the bike back home and decided to test it the next day.
The next day again I noticed this was happening when the engine was heated although the gauge was within the red zone. I spoke to Arif at PBK and took it for a check up. Although I rode as slow as possible the engine was very hot by the time I reached PBK.
As soon as the side panel was removed, the problem was staring at us..the cap on the spark plug was dislodged from the top. All Arif did was to put it back on and the bike was back to its normal self.
When I asked him the reasons as to how the cap could have been dislodged, he said it was due to pressure build up! In the spark plug??
Although the problem got solved, I did not get satisfactory answers to my queries. Which I hope I will get here..so here they are:
1) How and why did the cap get dislodged?
2) If the problem was because of the spark plug, why only after a few kms?
3) Why was the engine becoming hot?The company I keep:
Yamaha Rx100
Yamaha RD 350 (HT)
Bajaj Pulsar 150
Kawasaki Ninja 250r
RIDE SAFE! IF SOMETHING HAPPENS TO YOU, WHO'LL TAKE CARE OF YOUR BIKE?
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