Guys,

Does your RTRs or FIs in particular feel very underpowered during the noon.. when the temperatures are really high.. the power loss is unbelievable. I was managing to be ahead of a glamor. I am really dissapointed. In the night it feels really reponsive to throttle input and is a lot faster.

is it only my bike or is it also 'common' ... im beginning to get fed up of the one more 'normal and common issue with the RTR'.

Also when we switch off the engine .. it continues to run for a couple of seconds before switching off.. and sometimes (usually when i dont take the bike to speeds > 50-55)... it switches off immediately.

Mineral oil-heat management is obviously not that great!

Loose contact in engine kill switch-my Fiero F2 also has it. Nothing much you can do about it, except taking off the switch assembly&rubbing off the white deposits on the electrodes! It will be fine till the next rain though.

well now i get the 'phat phat'.....
it's the backfire ur bikes are makin,take it to 9000 in 3 and then leave the throttle,thn hear tht awesome PHAT PHAT.....

my SUZUKI FIERO also used to make tht sound....


this seems not common now.....
tell me whn it reacted like this i mean was the engine cold or was it hot??
cuz my bike never behaved like this but ya in the afternoon or whn the bike gets real hot(after the run of 10km or so) tht missing part increases like mad(same 2000-3000RPM).....

tht switching the engine off and it's running for few second thing is new to me too.....
mine just switches off with the EMS light glowing for almost sec or two after the engine dies.....

Coming to the farting problem, I think my R15 also has the same upset stomach problem, in spite of feeding her Extra Premium right since the day she was born!
Anyways, its not the Air Injector here, it is the Air Induction Unit which needs some cleaning. Guess touring has left a few specks of dust in there!

check this link...
Back-fire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

quotes from the article:
- ...causes an objectionable popping noise, together with possible loss of power and forward motion.
-...when a driver shifts up and lets off the accelerator, the engine has a moment of running rich. This causes an incomplete burn which causes the fumes to explode in the exhaust system - i think this is what is happening in my bike.

so rather than change the way these people brake (incorrectly) you think they should just use a rear disc to compensate? again, disc-fade will occur under heavy usage, which just means you're using too much rear...

completely agree with you about the play bit. But it IS very important to set drum-brake pedals low enough so they aren't constantly in operation when the rider's foot is on the footrest. Play is actually secondary to the distance between the brake pedal and the rider's sole.
but yes, I stick to my point about the maintenance bit. drum-brakes will need a change of liners and a wipe of the drum when installing the liners, which as anyone knows is a 10 minute job and would cost 150-200 bucks. now how long do you think it would take to refill and bleed the rear-disc and change the pads? and the cost of pads and brake-fluid?

this line says it the best. you still don't think a rear-drum is enough for the job you've mentioned above?

Yes, tvs has made a very good rear disc. the way it's supposed to be. and i'm not denying the fact. but is it necessary/worth it on the tiny rtr ? sure if we were talking about a 400/600 I would not hesitate a moment.

usually this is because of a rich mixture. but it could also be ignition related or an air leak into the system. And your's is an FI so bad mixture seems unlikely (but still possible-check CO levels on the PC). so like Sarvajit said, check out if the secondary air intake too.

I just checked the wikipedia link trigger, and noticed something interesting. Under 'Causes' : "Low fuel pressure, clogged fuel filters, and weak fuel pumps could cause a severe lean air-to-fuel ratio during fuel injection" Daaayum !

So you also need to check if you have the same bent fuel pipe problem that both renny and me had initially. the one that gets constricted when the tank is properly installed.

yes the FI definitely has an issue with heating. dunno about regular rtrs. since this is the first summer that our FIs are going through we are going to hear more and more of this. in fact, i've noticed a huge drop in power when the bike heats up to normal temperatures after a cold start in much cooler weather too.

LOL

Saurabh, i was talking more about the RTR vs RTR-RD. If you really want to buy the FI then don't let the rear disc stop you. you need to look at the complete package. I did. (actually i bought my FI just for the blue led but don't tell anyone ok ? :-D) But, yes i really tried hard to get an FI without the rear disc. buggers just wouldn't listen !

@kauria

ok it's like this. when you run the headlight on the battery, the rectifier should be able to provide as much power as the electricals need plus the headlight (which in case of a 55/60 is 60/12=5amps). AND the regulator should be able to limit the amount of current going to the battery when the headlight is switched off to avoid overcharging. of course, the coil should be able to provide that much power to the rectifier in the first place.

i used the cbz-self/karizma battery in the cbz after converting it to a 90/100 H4 running on the battery. and the battery's screwed because the headlight's pulling more current than the charging system can deliver. and i think it was a 7/8aH battery, not a 9.

p.s. you still haven't replied to my earlier query

WOW 201 pages ! this is a shit-load for newbies to go through before they buy their new RTR/FIs

its the same even with petronas sprinta in my fi.

had this problem. the bike just wheezes and just doesnt go ahead. i experienced this earlier itself thanks to chennai's bloody heat. the ecu and injectors havent seen much hot weather testing i guess.

True man, actually got stuck with many things .. out of city, out of country in between .. then was new riding bikes(FZ, Avenger) from friends .. so things are getting postponed continuously. I am most probably go for RTR FI but all new issues with FI on the thread is changing my mind to carb bikes .. RTR Refresh or Uni.

Not exactly, please read above .. and without RD RTR FI could have reduced price as well .. I am not saying that is a bad package .. may be post meant differently .. I am totally inclined towards FI .. power delivery is smoother than RTR .. I could feel that even in a small test ride.

Is it a common issue? Making me nervous with my decision to buy this bike.
Did anybody find any solution for this problem?

Ride to Chennai

Hi All,
I am having having a2006 Apache. It has done ~25k on odo.

Am planning to goto Chennai frm B'lore on sunday. Wanted to change the Engine Oil. Currently i am using Power1. Is there any other Synthetic Oil which is much efficient. also mention which irridium spark plug i can use and the price.

Please advice.

@julianpaul congratz on finishing your reply .. amazing patience dude !

@sai_ace i cannot force myself to imagine the chennai heat and fi working in the noon there !! But since TVS' factory/base (AFAIK) is in TN.. so they must have done some kind of testing in all kinds weather ... ( i hope :| )

how about a water or oil cooled rtr fi ?

sounds nice though

guys when i ride my rtr
some noise comes from the back.i think its coming from the exhaust.but when i stoped the bike aur idhar udhar thok k dekha toh there was no sound from any where.and its coming from the right side.
or could it be the chain?
its a new bike n i am worried

describe the kind of sound

I think discs are now used more because they are lighter in weight than drums of the same braking capacity. This in effect reduces the overall weight of the bike, keeping the braking efficient enough.

There are two main noise causers in the rtr afaik. one is the chain slapping around and hitting stuff. no amount of adjustment seems to stop the noise. you can't overtighten the chain either.

second is the toolkit clattering about in its plastic bay under the seat. the tvs 'rubber-band' is useless at getting it to fit tight so use a toolkit or battery belt from some other bike.

The RTR Refresh with rear disc is 4 kgs more than the drum version.

AFAIR the standard refresh is 136kgs and the rear disc version is 139kgs.