its kind of a ching ching

its not of the tool box,it may be of the chain.the sounds only comes when i ride into a pot hole or a speed breaker.and it does not come all the time !

aah, that's the sound of the chain and swingarm clattering, if it is a ching ching type that happens on moderate to large bumps. similar conditions that cause the old steering-head/fork noise. i had it for a while and then i think it disappeared after the 3rd service. as in i don't notice it these days. dunno if i'm going deaf. nothing much to worry about but it is annoying. not sure how they fixed it. actually i have no idea what goes on at tvs svc centres. it's like they're from some other planet.

my riding is usually stuck at above 7000RPM zone in the tacho but like u earlier said i do use the front brake 90% so no prob as such with the rear disc brake fading,the front never seem to fade though....

but still as the corrent scenario is goin on manufactures should provide the bikes with front and rear discs if they sport more than 16ps.....




the refill takes hardly 5-10 mins......

and do you think the discs needs to be bled evry 10000kms????
it has it's interval time much more than tht,my frnds own pulsars,zma's all have done more than 25000kms and no one bled their front discs....but ya they changed the brake shoes 4-5 times.....

now tell me wats more maintainance free.....??????



the drum may be doin it as same but when i go ghat sections downhill....the drum will fade out lot faster than the disc.....

but ya who goes to ghat on daily basis tht's one point here....,but whenever i'll be goin i WANT THE DISCS MAN.....!!!!!



like i said u cant compare a drum with the disc,i'll pay evry damn bucks more to have maintainence free,clean and sexy lookin rear brake tht'll never give me goosebumps whn i'll ride it in dry or in rainy season.....the point is now if we can have thm......thn why not..........!!!!!




do check the tool box once again buddy.....i heavily doubt its the culprit!!!!!!

Just back after getting my Fi checked 1 week after the last service.

had 4 problems to complain about
1.Clutch not properly adjusted - sumhow this problem didnt appear today..maybe got auto-adjusted

2. Vibration - didnt expect them to solve it

3. Tachometer faulty

4. *phat* *phat*

went directly to the service manager and complained about poin 3 and 4.

he checked with the spares and told me it would take another 2-3 days to get the rpm meter.

for the *phat* phat* he called his senior mechanic and asked him to go for a test ride. he was riding and i was pillion.

we started off.. he was changing every gear at 4k and there was no *phat*.
i asked him to stop over.got off and asked him to sit pillion.
started doing gear changes at about 8k rpm and reproduced the sound in 3rd gear. and this guy was freaking out when i was riding at 80 in 3rd gear in medium traffic. He stopped talking to me and said he will talk at the service center.

returned back to the service center and started complaining to the service manager in telugu [ i do understand telugu].said this guy is driving the bike like crazy .he is doing 80 in nly 3rd gear. any bike will misfire if driven like that.

the service manager was about to buy his logic ,but i spoke up telling him tht tvs sells this bike as tvs racing , this is a bike that goes upto 12k rpm and the mechanic wants me to ride it as if riding a 80-100cc economy bike?

The manager asked the mchanic to get the devices to check the CO levels to set the mixture right.

they set up a CO level tester and connected the bike to the computer.
initially the CO reading was 2.52 which was very high. As per the service manual it should be 1- 1.5% . The manager set the CO to 1.12.

There were other reading also displaying on the screen.
rpm was fluctuating between 1250 - 1350.
Engine oil temp - 120 degrees
Air intake temp was 44 degress.

After the setting was done, went for a test ride, the sound occured immidiately in first and second gear. After that didnt notice any sound..

will be observing it for a week... lets c how it goes.

I still think it has something to do with your air induction/injection unit. My R15 has a small problem of farting sometimes&I'm taking her today to the SC as well.
If you really don't get a fix there, you are welcome to come to Vishal TVS. The Manager there is really understanding&my mechanic will surely help out.

thnx bro..that is where i will be going for my next service ..only 1500km left for nxt service..should take only a month to get there..will check u whenever i go..
btw is it ok to start using fully synthetic oil in the FI?

@sai_ace : i think u r using it...any improvement in vibes?

How many kms.have you done? If more than 2-3K it should be fine. Take Petronas 4T 5000 10w40 fully synthetic from HydBiker KP.
As for vibes, they are not engine but body vibes. Hardly anything can be done about it. Engine is too powerful for body!

my front is totally f$#%ed, guess i've just used it too much. I had a huge problem with the levers getting soft when the brake was hot which immd points to boiling fluid. plus i noticed bubbling through the reservoir window. so i changed the fluid to nice, white DOT4 and it was much better. no more fade. but the braking is still MUCH less than when the bike was new. Sure it's the pads, maybe they're glazed. will have to remove and give them a good roughening up; they still have more than half the wear remaining. Funny thing is a friend who owns a 180 UG3 says my brakes are the best he's ever used. so i guess i just expect too much from them. where are those damn radials brembo ?? !!

u didn't really understand my point. i never said drums are better than discs. but for the rtr, since there is an option, it is MY opinion that the drums make more sense. esp since it's a light, not so powerful bike with the 2nd best front disc in india.

ok i WILL NOT argue with you on this point simply because i know the nitty gritties of disc brake maintenance and how to make brakes work like they should. in my first point why would i have changed my brake fluid at 6k kms then ? not for TP. necessity. the fluid was boiling. NO mech likes bleeding brakes. its a messy, time consuming job. btw, for all those reading this wondering why their brakes are tight and rough even after bleeding and replacing fluid, remove the pistons from the caliper, clean everything and make sure you replace the o-rings before reinstalling the pistons. and if there's rust between the piston and caliper, change the pistons too.

the ching ching is definitely the chain and swingarm slapping around. the toolkit sound is a deep, dull thudding sound like something heavy hitting plastic.

[/quote]the ching ching is definitely the chain and swingarm slapping around. the toolkit sound is a deep, dull thudding sound like something heavy hitting plastic.[/quote]


hmm so do i have to tell this to the svc guys? well theres time for me to go there

whats the brand i'll like to get my hands on it...white will look good....
i agree with ur frnd RTR has front disc much much better than the pulsar in terms of feel and brakin both....


ok bro!!!! end of discussion.....



i too didnt knew tht as my frnds pulsar (150) has this shit of a spongy brake even after repeated bleeding (2 times).....now i knw wats the fault....

is setting of the co levels has to do somethin with the performance of the engine or not??????

and this "PHAT PHAT" is still a mystry to me i mean wat could be the real source of the problem....

there are many DOT4 compliant brands around. in fact every brand that makes DOT3 probably also makes DOT4. You will get Castrol, Bosch (same as KBX fluid), and TVS-Girling among others . If the store doesn't understand DOT ratings just tell him white brake fluid. DOT4 simply has a higher boiling point than 3. But you must be aware that there's a risk of component damage or seal failure when changing from one type of brake fluid to another. It's not always so, so i can't say that changing from DOT3 to 4 WILL screw ur brakes. Mine didnt. but be aware. You must completely drain the old fluid out and then rinse out the whole system using the new DOT4. i would keep it in there for an hour or so, pumping the brakes every so often and then flush that out too and refill and bleed a second time.

Wait, spongy brakes are a sign of moisture in the fluid. what i meant about the pistons and their o-rings is that after a bleed, when the brakes are still hard and rough, its because the pistons are sticking in the calipers.

brake fluid is hygroscopic: it absorbs moisture. whenever replacing or refilling brake fluid it MUST be from a new, sealed container. once your done with the fluid, just dispose of the rest (properly, it is a hazardous chemical). it is useless to use even the next day.

what happens when you brake is that the heat from the disc and pads travels through the piston and caliper into the fluid. this heat causes the moisture absorbed in the fluid to boil and become vapour (since h2o has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid). since gases are highly compressible (and liquids like brake fluid are not) you feel the sponginess which is the vapour being compressed instead of the lever force being transferred to the pistons.

a proper a/f ratio will have an optimum co level. incorrect co levels simply mean incorrect combustion.

when i tap the rear(right) footpeg.the exhaust claters.i think that is the thing which is making the sound.but i am not 100 percent sure about it.got to tighten sum nuts

Really? i didn't know that.

yup, I can confirm this from the manual, its 4kgs heavier over the drum version.