Anyways no point throwing more flaimbaits, by your logic people riding with automatic transmission will never learn\appreciate manual transmission... does that make any of it bad or poor?
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Dude I never compared or called myself a super skilled rider, what I said is plain and simple, The device helps some who dont really know how to effectively use the Disc brake setup....Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
Anyways no point throwing more flaimbaits, by your logic people riding with automatic transmission will never learn\appreciate manual transmission... does that make any of it bad or poor?Super CommuTOURer� - Talk less, Ride more
.: FB :.|.: TW :.|*IG*| Ex PowerDrift:.
#Give thy opinion, write em, dont throw em
#Everyone errs, accept it, defending/cribbing about it only makes it worse
#Dont defend a manufacturer as if you work for them
#Write. Think. If relevant hit submit. If not hit yourself
#Be kind in your choice of words, you never know who would make you gulp em
� Satyen Poojary
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its good to hear tht frnt sprocket change works positively. hav u chngd it with r15 frnt sprockt? today i tried to changd my 13t frnt sprocket with 14t cbz bt unfortunately culdnt do it successfully bcz i think the chain is a bit little short to accumulate 1 extra T in frnt spckt!!Originally posted by nox2505 View PostYappy! changed to 14T sprocket. I liked the performance. I tried wheelie too, though it took little more throttle, I am satisfied. And pillion also will be happy as he won't scare
(i haven't tried yet
). Efficiency i got is 56kmpl, with mixed use, over 53kmpl with previous sprocket
. top speed i clocked is 118kmph(obstacle occured. had to slow down, road is also not so good), On the curves i used to take in 4th on inclines, i needed to shift to 3rd for a while. thats the only thing i am missing.
plz tell me have u pushed up the rear wheel a bit harshly whn u were assemblimg the chain to rear sprocket???

rtr fi front sprocket(left) and cbz front sprocket(right)BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "
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Knock
Engine vibes and all of that I guess are part of living with/enjoying the RTR.
Still, a noise that I am not sure where it is coming from but when you let off the acceleration there is a tck tck tck that slows down as the bike slows down.
Does not seem to come from the engine but have no idea where it is coming from and it is more than noticeable (embarassing actually riding
a cool bike that sounds like it is falling apart).
Any ideas?Last edited by JamesApacheRTR; 06-01-2009, 10:17 PM.
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i don't understand this. i try to explain the logic or lack thereof in using such a product and it becomes a flamebait ?Originally posted by satyenpoojary View PostDude I never compared or called myself a super skilled rider, what I said is plain and simple, The device helps some who dont really know how to effectively use the Disc brake setup....
Anyways no point throwing more flaimbaits, by your logic people riding with automatic transmission will never learn\appreciate manual transmission... does that make any of it bad or poor?
how hard is it anyway to 'learn' to use a disk brake ? we did right ? and i explained how this device will NOT aid in learning. the right way to brake properly is to learn taper braking. not by using a pressure valve in your brake line.
and the auto/manual point has no relevance in this context.
sorry if you see all my posts as flaming. nothing more from me on this topic.
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Somebody help me, i changed the front disc pad of my RTR from the showroom Service center. After changing the lever doesnt get back to its position the brake light is always on means brake is jammed. I have removed the air many times and as of now the Disc brake is not working at all.Never upgrade without getting your basics RIGHT.
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I got my rtr fi !!!
Hello bhpians !!
Got my orange RTR fi today evening.
Thanks for all the support in clearing my doubts. 
Really amazing bike. Though very boring ride i had as bike is in running period.
Whats the rpm range i should ride for the first 1k kms?
I have been riding the bike in 3k-4k range.
Also one thing i noticed. When moving at 30-40 kmph, at times bike felt some missing as if petrol is about to finish. Not that prominent though. The bike had more than 6 litres of petrol then. What might be the reason?
& I read in this thread somewhere that zapper q 110/80 18" if put on rtr will foul with the chain guard. Is it for the old rtr or even with the new RTR refresh/fi?
Also another doubt i have , which the sales person was not able to answer is that, how much km can i ride safe without damaging the fuel pump after the fuel warning lamp lits on?
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Ahem Ahem. Welcome to the world of RTR Fi machiOriginally posted by hariraman View PostAlso one thing i noticed. When moving at 30-40 kmph, at times bike felt some missing as if petrol is about to finish. Not that prominent though. The bike had more than 6 litres of petrol then. What might be the reason?
U from coimbatore right?
When everything comes ur way, u r in the wrong way ;)
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Hello and welcome to the Tribe!Originally posted by hariraman View PostHello bhpians !!
Got my orange RTR fi today evening.
Thanks for all the support in clearing my doubts. 
Really amazing bike. Though very boring ride i had as bike is in running period.
Whats the rpm range i should ride for the first 1k kms?
I have been riding the bike in 3k-4k range.
Also one thing i noticed. When moving at 30-40 kmph, at times bike felt some missing as if petrol is about to finish. Not that prominent though. The bike had more than 6 litres of petrol then. What might be the reason?
& I read in this thread somewhere that zapper q 110/80 18" if put on rtr will foul with the chain guard. Is it for the old rtr or even with the new RTR refresh/fi?
Also another doubt i have , which the sales person was not able to answer is that, how much km can i ride safe without damaging the fuel pump after the fuel warning lamp lits on?
Firstly go back to the SVC and tell them about the missing issue, It seems to be a common problem for all stock RTR FIs
As far as the fuel is concerned, typically most people recommend atleast 1.4 litres of fuel! You might want to refer your owner manual for more details though!Super CommuTOURer� - Talk less, Ride more
.: FB :.|.: TW :.|*IG*| Ex PowerDrift:.
#Give thy opinion, write em, dont throw em
#Everyone errs, accept it, defending/cribbing about it only makes it worse
#Dont defend a manufacturer as if you work for them
#Write. Think. If relevant hit submit. If not hit yourself
#Be kind in your choice of words, you never know who would make you gulp em
� Satyen Poojary
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if the service center isn't able to solve your problem then take it to an outside mech who you know is good with fixing brakes. there isn't much you can do yourself if you don't have experience fixing disc brakes.Originally posted by jasmeetsinghchawla View PostSomebody help me, i changed the front disc pad of my RTR from the showroom Service center. After changing the lever doesnt get back to its position the brake light is always on means brake is jammed. I have removed the air many times and as of now the Disc brake is not working at all.
if it is the calipers that are getting stuck, then the piston o-rings inside the calipers need to be changed. you should also completely flush, refill and bleed the brake fluid. make sure you use a new, sealed container.
i can't think of any other reason why the brakes would stick. regardless, it's not something you can fix yourself, so take it to someone who can.
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For the RPM range, try to be in the 3-4.5 k Rpm band....not more than that...Originally posted by hariraman View PostWhats the rpm range i should ride for the first 1k kms?
I have been riding the bike in 3k-4k range.
Also one thing i noticed. When moving at 30-40 kmph, at times bike felt some missing as if petrol is about to finish. Not that prominent though. The bike had more than 6 litres of petrol then. What might be the reason?
For the "MISSING" problem, bring it to the notice of the ppl at the service center...fight tooth n nail to get the problem rectified.....n yes IT IS A PROBLEM...those guys will try to convince u that its not a problem, but it surely is...
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Thanks Insanebiker. Yeah am from Cbe. U too from cbe?Originally posted by insanebiker View PostAhem Ahem. Welcome to the world of RTR Fi machi
U from coimbatore right?
YEah the manual tself is confusing. It doesn say around how much petrol is there inside the tank when the fuel warning indicator lit up. The dealers said atleast 1 litre i need to keep in tank to avoid damage to the fuel pump. In manual its mentioned " it is important to maintain a certain quantity of fuel in the tank for proper working of the pump".Originally posted by satyenpoojary View PostHello and welcome to the Tribe!
As far as the fuel is concerned, typically most people recommend atleast 1.4 litres of fuel! You might want to refer your owner manual for more details though!
So still confused abt how much fuel is left in tank when indicator lits up & also how much km i can rid safely without bringing any harm to the bike.
The service centre guys are not that skilled i think. The test ride bike i had also had the same issue (though in much greater effect). That day they said the bike is not properly programmed or so.Originally posted by kk_RTR View PostFor the RPM range, try to be in the 3-4.5 k Rpm band....not more than that...
For the "MISSING" problem, bring it to the notice of the ppl at the service center...fight tooth n nail to get the problem rectified.....n yes IT IS A PROBLEM...those guys will try to convince u that its not a problem, but it surely is...
What might be the issue behind the missing? what part should i ask them to check?
Hehe sorry for asking too many questions...this is my first bike bought wit my own money...thats why !!! silly me
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This is such a crying shame. That we have to advice a person who's just bought a brand new bike to actually fight with the service center to get the bike in proper shape.Originally posted by kk_RTR View Post...fight tooth n nail to get the problem rectified.....
Looks like TVS hasn't learnt anything nor are they implementing the fixes which they've themselves identified to solve the missing issue. Someone said that all the new batch bikes have the issue sorted out. Clearly, it isn't.
@hariraman please check this post http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post207890. the service manual (look a couple pages back for the download link) says 3 litres minimum. so forget how many km after the light, and whether you see the light or the flashing fuel bar. it's your responsibility to ensure there's atleast 3 litres of fuel in the bike, so do whatever you need to, just keep the minimum level.
and yes, looks like you will have to fight and contact higher-ups, etc. shame on tvs for putting new owners through all this trouble.Last edited by julianpaul; 06-02-2009, 01:41 AM.
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Originally posted by julianpaul View PostThis is such a crying shame. That we have to advice a person who's just bought a brand new bike to actually fight with the service center to get the bike in proper shape.
Looks like TVS hasn't learnt anything nor are they implementing the fixes which they've themselves identified to solve the missing issue. Someone said that all the new batch bikes have the issue sorted out. Clearly, it isn't.
@hariraman please check this post http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post207890. the service manual (look a couple pages back for the download link) says 3 litres minimum. so forget how many km after the light, and whether you see the light or the flashing fuel bar. it's your responsibility to ensure there's atleast 3 litres of fuel in the bike, so do whatever you need to, just keep the minimum level.
and yes, looks like you will have to fight and contact higher-ups, etc. shame on tvs for putting new owners through all this trouble.
u bet dude..... nowadays the FI is the star of the "problem lot" ....the carb version had its own share of fame...with most the time the carb tuning royally gone for a toss...sigpic
Fools and fanatics are always certain of themselves, but wiser people are full of doubts
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Thanks a lot for that Julian.Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
@hariraman please check this post http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post207890. the service manual (look a couple pages back for the download link) says 3 litres minimum. so forget how many km after the light, and whether you see the light or the flashing fuel bar. it's your responsibility to ensure there's atleast 3 litres of fuel in the bike, so do whatever you need to, just keep the minimum level.
For others quick reference, its written in the above manual that, "Running the vehicle once the Fuel warning indicator is glowing will effect the fuel pump. Whenn first bar in the fuel gauge starts blinking, fill fuel immediately. "
This may be useful to new owners like me
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Thankyou Julian, I am giving a last go to tha Service Center after that if the problem is still there, i will go to my trusted roadside mech.Originally posted by julianpaul View Postif the service center isn't able to solve your problem then take it to an outside mech who you know is good with fixing brakes. there isn't much you can do yourself if you don't have experience fixing disc brakes.
if it is the calipers that are getting stuck, then the piston o-rings inside the calipers need to be changed. you should also completely flush, refill and bleed the brake fluid. make sure you use a new, sealed container.
i can't think of any other reason why the brakes would stick. regardless, it's not something you can fix yourself, so take it to someone who can.Never upgrade without getting your basics RIGHT.
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