Hi,

Are you sure, to increase CC you need to change the Crank and Con Rod? I seriously doubt this. Could some one confirm this?

i thought about it and one of the reason was i am bored with the power

but now i have 2 options --

selling and investing 30k more to buy P220
OR
shelling out 5 k '''MAX'' and get a 17.3 BHP monster
brother .. 99% of the India's population doesnt know what is a cone and cam rod what can they possibly do ???
why bend down ??

the change is INSIDE the engine .. even the insurence guy wont find out unless he rides it

Well, I see a lot of wrong info flowing around the thread now.
I have been working on the Fiero/RTR engine since the last 5 yrs now and have seen this engine is every form, 147cc, 155cc, 160cc, 165cc, 175cc, 182cc, 186cc, 194cc and even played enough with the crank and nothing has been left untouched in this engine. I have done it all, from big-valve heads to custom ground camshaft to custom gearing to a lot and built the fastest Fiero/RTR in the country. I find it strange when people are amused so much about the RTR 180 which is nothing but the crank of the good'ol Fiero and the head and cylinder of the RTR160. The RTR160 has a 62mm piston and the 180 has a 62.5mm piston and thats about it. I have been running a 65.5 and 66mm piston for years.
Now the RTR180 conversion mix-up.
To convert an Apache 150 to RTR180, you DONT have to change the crank.
FYI, the crankshaft assembly comes as a set and there is no "Connecting rod" available seperately.
You need to put the RTR160 or RTR180's cylinder head and cylinder assembly. The only difference betwn the RTR160 and 180 is the 0.5mm variation in the piston size.
To convert an RTR160 to a 180, you only need to change the crankshaft.
There is NO difference in the cylinder height and like somebody here rumoured there is no need to add extra gaskets or nothing whatsoever. The piston deck heights of the A150,RTR160 and RTR180 are the same. You only need one regular gasket at the bottom of the cylinder and one head gasket.
All said, you wont get any great power by simply doing the swap coz there are a lot of things to be done to make it move better. Now thats Tuning.
Mechanics will blind you with some stupid facts and figures, so just keep this in mind.

hehehe.....i was waiting for you to pitching in but not this soon.....that clears everything now and i hope for others too

so all one has to do is change the crank?

so ......
its better to wait for ninja and a better R15 for now

@satish -- as joel said .. we wont feel change in power .

@ JOEL==== what about the carb ??? RTR160 is a 26 where as RTR180 is 29

finally the 'Xenon' came when we're getting happy with the 'candle'.....!!!!!

Now its more clear! thnx joel!

We lack some basic IQ here. Ofcourse you need to change them mate! Goes without saying.
You cant get into fiddling with mechanicals without even knowing some basics. I'd suggest you guys stick to stock engines.
None of you here has tasted a well modified engine and hence all this talk. There are so many variables that you need to play with. Once you shov the BS29 carb, do you know what it takes to jet it right?
Again, your ignition timing changes now, so what do you do next?
Please stick to your stock engines or buy something powerful.
But remember, a tuned engine will always be more fun than any expensive stock bike. But that needs dedication, patience, money and passion.

well well there goes a lid on the Fairytales... Thanks Joel for clearing the air.

I can only say two words to sum up Joel Sir's Knowledge: "EXPERIENCE MATTERS"

20 K Report

I have completed 20k on my Apache RTR Refresh, the bike is performing as good as new one just sounding a little more.

Problems: Tappet sound which does not go.
Rest i am happy with the bikes performance.

Repairs: Taillight changed, cost Rs1350
Piston rings replaced, cost Warranty Replacement
Front brake shoe replaced, Cost Rs 350
Front Brake Master cylinder replaced, Cost Warranty.

Modifications: R15 Front and Rear footpegs.

Fuel Efficiency: 45 kmpl in average.

A LATE REPLY(apology)
yes it is available separately, it cost me rs60 here in delhi.
it is a direct fit to rtr's shaft but u need cbz's flange also.

If you don't mind my asking, why were the taillight and master cylinder replaced? I'm just curious to know whether it was some kind of accidental damage or wear & tear or a manufacturing defect. And the taillight isn't covered in warranty eh? tvs' "electrical wiring" exemption from warranty is probably to blame here.

As Joel said for any kind of modification we need lot of patience and dedication. Stock bikes are always more reliable at any point of time. You always need an extra 2 wheeler if u are going for any kind of this modification and of course a very knowledgeable mechanic. My apache is almost 3.4 years old and done 45k till date. If u so r bored with ur bike or badly need any change then only I would recommend any modification related to engine, otherwise keep ur bike as stock and be happy. Remember don't give ur bike to any inexperienced mechanic, they may screw ur bike.

Remember, Mechanics are not Tuners!
No matter how experienced a Mech is, he is afterall only a mech fit to do the same fixing job. People who evolve and get to the next levels after that are Tuners. People who can relate physics and requirements, not assumptions and speculations.