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**snehil** · 10-10-2009, 01:30 AM

Originally posted by prakash_mvpa View Post

^RTR180? Mine when Bought anew was missing the rubber band which tightens toolkit.So ,there was always this unknown noise from the rear.Opened the Seat to see toolkit is held loose.

160 refresh
its not the toolkit.cause there is no tool kit in my ride :P

**rennycornelius** · 10-10-2009, 09:52 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

I can second that. In my case the breather pipe was running free and was adequately tight at the battery outlet too but still there was acid damage on two separate wiring connectors. The plastic housings on both were completely corroded and eaten away. Fortunately the metal connectors inside were ok so i just taped them up and tucked them away behind the starter capacitor, where they should have been in the first place. Dunno why the connectors were kept so close to the battery breather outlet. I can understand ease of access but it's not like they're gonna be unplugged every service.

put "Vaseline" in the metal connectors and in the connectors of starter motor....
that'll prevent all the rust formation....

**kauria** · 10-10-2009, 11:51 AM

Help guys:

Hi all,
My Feb 2008 RTR is completed 15000 km so far. Already got the warranty replacement of the Engine head. Cylinder & piston. Now after doing this job I have completed 800 km so far. The bike is still not free, kind of sluggish to pick up. At around 700 km I have replaced the oil read Valvoline Champ 20w40 with oil filter and the service center tune the bike. Though I am not happy with the pick up and speed, the bike is now very harsh, and not smooth, gears are not engaged properly sometimes.

Now the SC suggests me to do these jobs to get back the bikes original power:

1) Change the Clutch plates along with the pressure plates. If needed also replaced the clutch cable. My clutch plates are running long approx 10000 km, and the cables are almost from the day one. Should it need replacement?

2) Change the whole chain kit, (Sprocket & chain combo) as they are also shows age. They are also in duty from the day one. Don’t know, if replacement of the same will do any good or not? Also they suggest me to go for Fi’s chain as it is cheaper and it’s an O ring one. Normal chain for RTR is around Rs. 909.00 where the Fi’s chain is approx Rs.650.00. Any idea?

3) Also the steering bearings are old and need change, they told me to change the whole setup,(racer + bearings).

The total cost comes to approx:

Clutch Plates ( Metal & Asbestos Plates) = Rs. 650.00
Clutch Cable = Rs. 50.00
Chain Kit = Rs. 650.00
Handel Bearing = Rs. 237.00
Labor = Rs. 400.00

Total = Rs. 1987.00

What’s your suggestion, should I carry the job?

**abhijeet080808** · 10-10-2009, 12:01 PM

Maybe you can carry it out as a regular servicing job. But, only clutch plates can affect the pickup.

**VarunRTR** · 10-10-2009, 12:08 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

Hi all,
My Feb 2008 RTR is completed 15000 km so far. Already got the warranty replacement of the Engine head. Cylinder & piston. Now after doing this job I have completed 800 km so far. The bike is still not free, kind of sluggish to pick up. At around 700 km I have replaced the oil read Valvoline Champ 20w40 with oil filter and the service center tune the bike. Though I am not happy with the pick up and speed, the bike is now very harsh, and not smooth, gears are not engaged properly sometimes.

Now the SC suggests me to do these jobs to get back the bikes original power:

1) Change the Clutch plates along with the pressure plates. If needed also replaced the clutch cable. My clutch plates are running long approx 10000 km, and the cables are almost from the day one. Should it need replacement?

3) Also the steering bearings are old and need change, they told me to change the whole setup,(racer + bearings).

The total cost comes to approx:

Clutch Plates ( Metal & Asbestos Plates) = Rs. 650.00
Clutch Cable = Rs. 50.00
Chain Kit = Rs. 650.00
Handel Bearing = Rs. 237.00
Labor = Rs. 400.00

Total = Rs. 1987.00

may i know why the piston cylinder and head was replaced? was it because you ve tried motoman's run in method on ur RTR?

also the refresh and FI are havin the same chain sprocket kit...dunno y the price difference?!

...btw i doubt if there is any need to change the whole kit just after 15000 kms!!if its lubed properly, it ll last much longer..

**kauria** · 10-10-2009, 12:59 PM

Originally posted by VarunRTR View Post

may i know why the piston cylinder and head was replaced? was it because you ve tried motoman's run in method on ur RTR?

also the refresh and FI are havin the same chain sprocket kit...dunno y the price difference?!

...btw i doubt if there is any need to change the whole kit just after 15000 kms!!if its lubed properly, it ll last much longer..

May be or may not be, there was huge carbon deposit along with low fuel economy (30 kmpl). At the last stage they even found oil deposit at the plug. So, TVS officials decided to replace the whole upper part of the engine, though step by step. When they open the piston, found a big scar mark in the cilliender wall. That may be the reason.
Both's sporkets are same but the chain is O ring in case of Fi. I used to lube my chain in a gap of 500 km with OKS chain lube.

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

Maybe you can carry it out as a regular servicing job. But, only clutch plates can affect the pickup.

Thanks, any idea how to check the plates are gone, without opening the engine?

**abhijeet080808** · 10-10-2009, 02:39 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

Thanks, any idea how to check the plates are gone, without opening the engine?

While the bike is stationary and the brakes are applied, slot into 4th or 5th gear, and release the clutch slowly as if you want to ride the bike. Take the engine rpm upto max 5k rpm while releasing the clutch. If the engine stalls, clutch is ok, else if the clutch could be released fully, yet the engine does not stall, it is faulty.

**kauria** · 10-10-2009, 04:12 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

While the bike is stationary and the brakes are applied, slot into 4th or 5th gear, and release the clutch slowly as if you want to ride the bike. Take the engine rpm upto max 5k rpm while releasing the clutch. If the engine stalls, clutch is ok, else if the clutch could be released fully, yet the engine does not stall, it is faulty.

Thanks, had no idea about this method. You mean apply both the brakes and engage 4th gear and release clutch, if stalls clutch is ok, if not stalls it could be plates.

I will try today and let you know.

**abhijeet080808** · 10-10-2009, 04:21 PM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

Thanks, had no idea about this method. You mean apply both the brakes and engage 4th gear and release clutch, if stalls clutch is ok, if not stalls it could be plates.

I will try today and let you know.

Yes, and you may also rev the engine a little (max 5k rpm, use around 3k rpm) to try and prevent the stalling. If it still stalls, clutch is fine.

**krishnan6015** · 10-10-2009, 05:33 PM

Guys, My RTR FI has one issue but the service guys could not able to fix it.While moving from 1st gear to 2nd gear (No issues in the other gears),If there is any lag between the clutch and the throttle operation then a wierd sound(tup) is coming from the exhaust(might be the un-burnt air and petrol mix not sure). If the throttle and the clutch operation in sync then the sound will not be coming. While riding in the traffic Im coming across this sound often. Whenever I say this to the service people they say they have tuned the CO. Please let me know guys what might be the exact reason.Otherwise the bike is awesome.

**prakash_mvpa** · 10-11-2009, 02:04 AM

Update regarding front shock "Thud" Noise:

I have the "Thud" Sound from Front Shocks of My RTR180 Resolved (As of) Now.Fork overhauling was done by TVS Service.
Check in RTR180 Ownership Thread:

TVS Apache RTR 180 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcycle-ownership-experiences/8146-tvs-apache-rtr-180-a-21.html#post305360

Share what you think about the motorcycle you own or have owned in the past.

**julianpaul** · 10-11-2009, 07:11 AM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

put "Vaseline" in the metal connectors and in the connectors of starter motor....
that'll prevent all the rust formation....

nahin yaar, i meant the plastic housing of the connectors were damaged by battery acid somehow leaking on them in spite of the breather pipe being properly fixed. no damage to the actuall metal clips.

**rennycornelius** · 10-11-2009, 08:40 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

nahin yaar, i meant the plastic housing of the connectors were damaged by battery acid somehow leaking on them in spite of the breather pipe being properly fixed. no damage to the actuall metal clips.

ok now i get it buddy....
my rubber strap was damaged due to the acid....

**julianpaul** · 10-11-2009, 09:05 AM

Is it rubber or plastic?

Mine is corroded and broken too. luckily the battery is still a tight fit due to the side cover pressing the fuse holder tightly against the battery. Since the strap fits to the frame with screws, i'll have to get an exact replacement from the svc. If it was a simple rubber strap, any kind of jugaad would have worked.

raccoon, in another thread, had mentioned about the sealed amaron batteries to be very good. i guess when this battery dies, that's the obvious replacement. atleast our rtrs use a standard 9aH battery unlike the cbz, etc HHs with the 6/7/8 aH wierdness.

**rennycornelius** · 10-11-2009, 10:23 AM

^^^

it was rubber and it almost 'melted'....
i also thought of this maintanance free battery for the next change as this topping up with distilled water is time consuming too and this leads to this breathing process and all..

i thought of that TATA GREEN batteries....

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