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**rennycornelius** · 06-01-2010, 05:06 PM

Eureka!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally found a simple method that can do wonders in the FEEL of the "not so bitey" nature of the rear DISC brake....

I was inspecting the rear pedal to get some way to lower it down a bit, to match the gear lever (i've lowered it by almost an inch) then found two screws at the rod that comes down from the
Cylinder, by opening the upper screw, the screw below the inverted "U" shaped metal is made free, but the inverted "U" shaped metal acts as a lock to the down screw, so to rotate it, the connector of the brake pedal has to be opened along with the split pin, and then the whole inverted "U" shaped metal has to be rotated to get the screw going, this pulls the whole inverted "U" shaped metal up, thus making the "housing" go up, resulting the brake pedal go down.

After lowering it down to 3/4 of an inch, i eliminated the play it had before, thus the moment i was tapping it, it was grabbing the disc, thus improving the overall FEEL that was hampered by the play.

**julianpaul** · 06-01-2010, 05:14 PM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

Finally found a simple method that can do wonders in the FEEL of the "not so bitey" nature of the rear DISC brake....

I was inspecting the rear pedal to get some way to lower it down a bit, to match the gear lever (i've lowered it by almost half inch) then found two screws at the rod that comes down from the cylender, by opening the upper screw which acts as a lock, the screw below the inverted "U" shaped metal is made free, but the inverted "U" shaped metal acts as a lock to the down screw, so to rotate it, the connector of the brake pedal has to be opened along with the split pin, and then the whole "U" shaped metal has to be rotated to get the screw going, this pulls the whole inverted "U" shaped metal up, thus making the "housing" go up, resulting the brake pedal go down.

After lowering it down to 3/4 of an inch, i eliminated the play it had before, thus the moment i was tapping it, it was grabbing the disc, thus improving the overall FEEL that was hampered by the play.

LOL. I take it you didn't understand my instructions earlier when i told you how to lower the brake pedal. But if both the nuts are tightened around the housing, there would be no play. I don't understand how your setup had play. Anyways, good you lowered it. These days i feel mine needs to be lower still. Could it be because my pads are badly worn, the pedal is higher now? If i fit new pads, will the pedal be lower?

**rennycornelius** · 06-01-2010, 05:19 PM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

LOL. I take it you didn't understand my instructions earlier when i told you how to lower the brake pedal. But if both the nuts are tightened around the housing, there would be no play. I don't understand how your setup had play. Anyways, good you lowered it. These days i feel mine needs to be lower still. Could it be because my pads are badly worn, the pedal is higher now? If i fit new pads, will the pedal be lower?

I remember you telling me the whole process of lowering it, and i didnt got it at that time, you even told me 2-3 times but i was opening the allen bolt, taking the whole pedal out and was trying to push back it in lower angle....

i dont know but it had play from the starting day, now it's completely gone.

And no, the worn out pads wont make any diff in the placement of the pedal, they wont make it nudge by a mm even.

**gautam_k** · 06-01-2010, 07:06 PM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

He lied to you, the helmet was definately dropped at the ground, as by going with the condition of it, only banging against the saree guard wont fu#k it like the pics suggests.

Originally posted by onlinesatish

it is possible.....this happened to one of my friends uncle!

Originally posted by julianpaul

That's what happens when a tyre rotating at speed contacts a helmet.

the tyre dint have any sign of wear and tear. But the sareee guard's grill bars have some bumpy solid things similar. It looks similar to a candle that has burnt and the molten wax has solidified at the bottom. So i'm guessing the helmet must have melted at the contact part and somehow got partially "welded" on the saree guard.

Originally posted by rennycornelius

Eureka!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Finally found a simple method that can do wonders in the FEEL of the "not so bitey" nature of the rear DISC brake....

I was inspecting the rear pedal to get some way to lower it down a bit, to match the gear lever (i've lowered it by almost an inch) then found two screws at the rod that comes down from the
Cylinder, by opening the upper screw, the screw below the inverted "U" shaped metal is made free, but the inverted "U" shaped metal acts as a lock to the down screw, so to rotate it, the connector of the brake pedal has to be opened along with the split pin, and then the whole inverted "U" shaped metal has to be rotated to get the screw going, this pulls the whole inverted "U" shaped metal up, thus making the "housing" go up, resulting the brake pedal go down.

After lowering it down to 3/4 of an inch, i eliminated the play it had before, thus the moment i was tapping it, it was grabbing the disc, thus improving the overall FEEL that was hampered by the play

Originally posted by julianpaul

LOL. I take it you didn't understand my instructions earlier when i told you how to lower the brake pedal. But if both the nuts are tightened around the housing, there would be no play. I don't understand how your setup had play. Anyways, good you lowered it. These days i feel mine needs to be lower still. Could it be because my pads are badly worn, the pedal is higher now? If i fit new pads, will the pedal be lower?

Originally posted by onlinesatish

Quote:
Originally Posted by rennycornelius
@SATISH:

you fitted the tail lamp onto the 180's fender????

Nope...not yet....too lazy

i fail to understand why we still don't have a DIY thread for Apache here on xBhp

**Puneet1** · 06-01-2010, 07:49 PM

Originally posted by gautam_k View Post

i fail to understand why we still don't have a DIY thread for Apache here on xBhp

all apachians too lazy

i can make one on brake pad changing ,oil change n filter and air filter cleaning . but all these are similar to the threads already existing so no point making again i guess

. once i get my projector then I'll make one for sure .

**rennycornelius** · 06-01-2010, 08:38 PM

Originally posted by gautam_k View Post

i fail to understand why we still don't have a DIY thread for Apache here on xBhp

I always forget to click the pics while working on bike.
plus uploading it on picasa then posting it here seems too boring for me...

**venkatesh_B** · 06-01-2010, 09:19 PM

finally i got my first bike rtr 160 black..
@rennycornelius - thanks for ur replies bro.

**rennycornelius** · 06-01-2010, 09:50 PM

@venkatesh_B:

Congratulations.

**venkatesh_B** · 06-01-2010, 11:09 PM

thanks man

**remortr** · 06-02-2010, 01:23 AM

any one got the diagnosing software for rtr FI how u peoples adujusting idling rpm..et..

**nox2505** · 06-02-2010, 09:58 AM

Losing top whack

My RTR is down again. touches 100 comfortably, goes upto 110 well, but nightmare starts after that. It struggles to go beyond 120. Previously, 120 was regular affair. This result is with NGK CR7EIX. Previously, with old spark plug, it was struglling to go beyond 105 also. Was giving few jerks at 4.5k and 5k. cleaned carb yesterday. Now its smooth along entire rev range. But top whack is still low. In morning while commuting to vikhroli, It was struggling to be in phase of a P150

at speeds around 115 near kharghar flyover. After that, managed to touch 124 on airoli bridge ( previously it used to do 115 with pillion and 129-130 single). Will get the carb cleaned with water spray at SVC. Planing to plonk in BS-29 carb. Its costing Rs.4045/-. Will it be worth?

Note:
Oil is due for change (clocked 2.5k with it)
P150 rider must be weighing around 60 ( My weight is 85)
I dont think its issue because of tappet setting.

**nox2505** · 06-02-2010, 10:08 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

LOL. I take it you didn't understand my instructions earlier when i told you how to lower the brake pedal. But if both the nuts are tightened around the housing, there would be no play. I don't understand how your setup had play. Anyways, good you lowered it. These days i feel mine needs to be lower still. Could it be because my pads are badly worn, the pedal is higher now? If i fit new pads, will the pedal be lower?

No matter Pads are there or not, worn or new. Pedal will remain in the position where it is set by mechanical linkage (rod coming out of master cylinder).

**metalhead_aj** · 06-02-2010, 10:22 AM

Originally posted by remortr View Post

any one got the diagnosing software for rtr FI how u peoples adujusting idling rpm..et..

idling can be set manually without the s/w....bt its not advisable to do so....
btw if any one gets the power commander somehow or the other ....then please do share...

**julianpaul** · 06-02-2010, 10:26 AM

Originally posted by nox2505 View Post

My RTR is down again. touches 100 comfortably, goes upto 110 well, but nightmare starts after that. It struggles to go beyond 120. Previously, 120 was regular affair. This result is with NGK CR7EIX. Previously, with old spark plug, it was struglling to go beyond 105 also. Was giving few jerks at 4.5k and 5k. cleaned carb yesterday. Now its smooth along entire rev range. But top whack is still low. In morning while commuting to vikhroli, It was struggling to be in phase of a P150

at speeds around 115 near kharghar flyover. After that, managed to touch 124 on airoli bridge ( previously it used to do 115 with pillion and 129-130 single). Will get the carb cleaned with water spray at SVC. Planing to plonk in BS-29 carb. Its costing Rs.4045/-. Will it be worth?

Note:
Oil is due for change (clocked 2.5k with it)
P150 rider must be weighing around 60 ( My weight is 85)
I dont think its issue because of tappet setting.

I had a similar problem when they set my tappets too tight. But in that case the response in the entire rev range was crap. like it was a splendor, but without the smoothness. If you're on the stock carb, it's good enough, no need to blow 4k on the 29. Check that your jets are absolutely clear, and the needle isn't bent. And don't use water, buy a can of carb cleaner. It should last you a long time. Did you check the oil level?

Originally posted by nox2505 View Post

No matter Pads are there or not, worn or new. Pedal will remain in the position where it is set by mechanical linkage (rod coming out of master cylinder).

hmm, i should have figured, discs don't change the setting huh? But i dunno why my pedal feels higher than what i set it. I think i have a little more thread in the adjuster, so i guess i'll lower it some more.

**nox2505** · 06-02-2010, 11:16 AM

Originally posted by julianpaul View Post

I had a similar problem when they set my tappets too tight. But in that case the response in the entire rev range was crap. like it was a splendor, but without the smoothness. If you're on the stock carb, it's good enough, no need to blow 4k on the 29. Check that your jets are absolutely clear, and the needle isn't bent. And don't use water, buy a can of carb cleaner. It should last you a long time. Did you check the oil level?

Know any specific make/product name for carb cleaning? Needle and jets are in perfect shape. I have added IFTEX systemG in last fuel fill.

I have seen many mechs and SVC guys cleaning carb with WD-40. Is it key to do so? Read about it on few websites also.

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