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**nox2505** · 11-02-2010, 09:47 AM

Originally posted by kauria View Post

To Everybody:
Guys I am going to take the biggest challenge of my life, Ok, No, I am not climbing the Mt. Everest, but it is much difficult for me to achieve the job.

I should clear you the problem here, one week back I visited my local TVS sc for low mileage and poor pickup of my 2008 RTR, which is out of warranty. They checked the engine and suggest me to change the valve spring and decarbonize the head as it is almost 10000km after my head replacement. BTW I got the entire head, cylinder, piston and valves in warranty when my bike just covered approx 14000km. After that I didn’t touch the engine, apart from timely oil change and other periodical maintenances. Now my bike clocked 25000km and started some problem I mention earlier in my post. I give the bike to them and they change the valve springs and decarbonizes the head in front of me. You know I am kind of possessive, I don’t left my bike to SC, and I always took one day leave from my office and carry the jobs. And I love to watch the job too. They return my bike in the eve and I didn’t find any problem right then. Two days later I open the plug to see the colour of the plug, I generally could not able to test the goodness of the engine by riding, I used to check my plug colour and if it is good, I feel everything is good. In my opinion a good combustion is very much important then checking pickup and max speed, which comes automatically when combustion & compression of the engine is good.

After opening the plug I was surprised to see oily black carbon buildup in the plug tip and everywhere. I came to sure that valves are leaking when I carry a compression test with some drops of engine oil. And I am kind of sure that my piston & cylinder is ok, and the valves are culprit here. So I took the bike to SC again and told them the story. They started blaming me that this is entire my fault as they also suggest me to grind the valve seat but I didn’t allow. They never suggest me so, I was kind of fade up and speechless, how come I suggest them what to do or what not to. They gave me a list of the components which I need to replace further, which included Piston, Cylinder, valves and if require then also the head, the cost of the list was approx Rs.8000.00. I left the SC in that eve.

Returning home I listed the job I need to carry, which is like that:

Open the head.
See the condition of the valves and its seat. If needed will change to a new set of valves and with a set of new oil seals.
Check the piston and cylinder for any scar mark. If there nay need to replace.
And finally rebuild the head.

Now that total job apart from the cylinder & piston hardly cost me Rs.500.00, as I enquire today. I also talk to one of the best valve & head grinder in Kolkata, who will do the valve settings for me, and will charge approx Rs.150.00. Now the main problem is I am unable to find any good guy who can carry the job for me. Practically I do not trust anybody now, after this incident.
Yesterday I had a discussion with my wife and she encourages me to do the whole job by myself. I am also thinking to carry it myself. I will soon started collecting all the tools needed for the job and already have the service manual in my hand. So I can start the job in my own way. Yet to receive the valve and timing settings from one of my friend who used to work in TVS for years. If I will get this, there will be no problem.

This will be my biggest challenge so far and I know I will achieve if my xbhp friends can help me. Hope you don’t mind. So, wish me luck.

Sorry for the long post.

** If you find any resources regarding the RTR engine please forward it to me.

Thanks

Go ahead. Get the original TAPARIA tools. After engine head diassembly, and completing the job, you will need gauge strips to set valve clearances (do set them at compression TDC only). Thats the only work, which includes setting . Rest of the things are bolt on. nothing else needs seting.
Each gauge strip will cost 30-40. You will need to buy 2 gauge strips 0.06 for intake and 0.08 of exhaust.

Head and block removal will take approx 2-3 hours (as we do not do it on regular basis).

head work wil depend on the workmen

do check the block for sure. Mostly, replacement of oil rings will do the job. and will not need the replacement of piston and block.

All the best. Feel free to call. I havent worked on engine for last couple of years, but surely do remember few things.

**kantu** · 11-02-2010, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by nizarp View Post

Hi Guys,

According to the suggestions from the fellow members, finally I brought Pirelli SD for the rear tyre. I selected the size 110-80-18.

I brought it from a shop in JC Road, Bangalore. The price was 3000/-

The tyre looks nice. The first thing I noticed was that the grip became superb, its day and night difference compared to the stock tyre. Attacking corners became so easy. I couldn't test on wet conditions though.

Here is some photos(Sorry for the poor image quality)

Wow talk about poor quality pics ! it is really poor ! you took it with a nano mega pixel camera ?? i cant see it !!!

**kauria** · 11-02-2010, 11:51 AM

@ Puneet: I have the Service manual of A150 in hard format, I mean the original book, looking for the RTR version, not the book with updated infos, I already have that, and posted here in xbhp many times. Go for the DC, you never regret.

@ Nox: Thanks man, but afaik the in is 0.08mm & out is 0.11mm, as per the service manual. Where did you get the 6 & 8 info, let me double check.

@ Sunny: Thanks for your support dude.

**Aparajith** · 11-02-2010, 12:54 PM

Kauria, although I appreciate ur DIY, I wud suggest against working on the engine all alone for first time atleast. ASC's can handle regular mundane jobs, not anything extraordinary. My RTR Fi requires throttle body cleaning which they refuse to do.

I would suggest that you contact some engineers from TVS for this, say Area sales head/service head etc. They should be able to help you out much better. Show them the bills and try getting the job done. Have DIY as last resort.

**kauria** · 11-02-2010, 04:38 PM

Originally posted by Aparajith View Post

Kauria, although I appreciate ur DIY, I wud suggest against working on the engine all alone for first time atleast. ASC's can handle regular mundane jobs, not anything extraordinary. My RTR Fi requires throttle body cleaning which they refuse to do.

I would suggest that you contact some engineers from TVS for this, say Area sales head/service head etc. They should be able to help you out much better. Show them the bills and try getting the job done. Have DIY as last resort.

No way, I will not visit TVS SC again, I will do it myself at any cost, be it good or bad, I wana learn it hard way.

Sorry for the ignorance.

**Sarvajit** · 11-02-2010, 10:01 PM

Originally posted by Aparajith View Post

Kauria, although I appreciate ur DIY, I wud suggest against working on the engine all alone for first time atleast. ASC's can handle regular mundane jobs, not anything extraordinary. My RTR Fi requires throttle body cleaning which they refuse to do.

I would suggest that you contact some engineers from TVS for this, say Area sales head/service head etc. They should be able to help you out much better. Show them the bills and try getting the job done. Have DIY as last resort.

Hey Apar-do you mean Injector cleaning when you say throttle body cleaning? This was done on Vibhanshu's&KP's bike last time&the results were great. Just takes 5 mins.-they spray some Injector cleaning fluid into the nozzles&then they're good to go!

**Aparajith** · 11-02-2010, 10:15 PM

Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post

Hey Apar-do you mean Injector cleaning when you say throttle body cleaning? This was done on Vibhanshu's&KP's bike last time&the results were great. Just takes 5 mins.-they spray some Injector cleaning fluid into the nozzles&then they're good to go!

Not the Injector Sarvajit. Its the butterfly valve that controls flow of fuel to the injectors. Am looking for the 3M spray used to clean it, but unable to clean it. Physical cleaning will also work.

**rennycornelius** · 11-02-2010, 10:21 PM

Originally posted by Aparajith View Post

Its the butterfly valve that controls flow of fuel to the injectors. Am looking for the 3M spray used to clean it, but unable to clean it. Physical cleaning will also work.

Thanks for reminding it da ! i forgot about the cleaning of it !

you got your filter changed?
i will be going for it tomorrow...will get this butterfly valve cleaned too.

**Aparajith** · 11-03-2010, 11:32 AM

Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post

Thanks for reminding it da ! i forgot about the cleaning of it !

you got your filter changed?
i will be going for it tomorrow...will get this butterfly valve cleaned too.

Which filter? I changed the air and fuel filters. Remember to set the CO value after cleaning the throttle body.

**RedApple** · 11-03-2010, 12:40 PM

My RTR has gone for service, should be back today

. She's done just over 11k kms...still running like a top, save for some niggles here and there. Any of you guys here running a K&N on the 160?

**rennycornelius** · 11-03-2010, 01:43 PM

Originally posted by Aparajith View Post

Which filter? I changed the air and fuel filters. Remember to set the CO value after cleaning the throttle body.

Fuel.
You got the pipe thing done, which has the bend in it?
Will keep that CO setting thing in mind.
thanks da.

**nox2505** · 11-03-2010, 01:54 PM

Plonked in bs 29. With it, A:f screw got set at 2.75 turns, against previous 4.25 turns.did a short run on service road.As expected, full throttle gets opened at 3/4th turn. In 1st gear, revved upto 11750rpm (tacho). 2nd revved upto 11500 but felt as it can touch 12000rpm, if given more time. Will stretch it on thurstday while riding back home. Currently running castrol 20w50 active extra. Will change oil in diwali and try with 15w40 power1.
and to mention, rtr sting is more dominant now. ;-)

@Kauria: As per old specs, it was 0.08 and 0.11 but with that setting, tapet noise is much. As per new specs, its 0.06 and 0.08. with this tappets are silent and no drop in performance. However, if you want it to do better redlining, set it at 0.07 and 0.09.
Service limit as per new specs is 0.08 and 0.1.
I tried running all these settings 0.06-0.08, 0.07-0.09, 0.08-0.1, 0.06-0.09, 0.08-0.11.
And finally, settled on 0.06-0.08 with smooth sliding gauge strip.

**onlinesatish** · 11-04-2010, 02:46 AM

Been close to 20 days since i rode my RTR. Will be using it from today. need to get it serviced.

Rear tyre, Chain kit, Crash guard, iginition set and oneway clutch needs replacement. Thats almost 5k rs. In another 5-6k kms, front tyre would need replacement.......Damn!

**chicane1879** · 11-04-2010, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post

oneway clutch needs replacement.

Again??...

**rennycornelius** · 11-04-2010, 07:34 PM

Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post

.
Chain kit

That's your 3rd i guess...

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