Re: The Honda CB Twister

hey guys, i am facing too many petrol theft incidences in my locality. anyone has installed a fuel petcock lock ( petrol cock lock) on Twister? any fuel cock locks made for Twister available in market?

Re: The Honda CB Twister

That is Unfortunate but public parking are so vulnerable to theft and damage these days its really worrying to leave and forget.

By the way my 5th draining is due in next week, already rode 8.6K (Draining around every 2.2K till now). The Honda 10W30 Mineral costs ~300 INR including labor.
Just inquired about Honda Throttle 10W30 FS it is priced 504 INR at my place.
So thinking of switching to Honda Throttle and draining at every 3~4K from now on.
Does it recommended to clean or replace the oil filter before switching to synthetic ? the service here insisting to clean it after 6 service.
Else i can proceed to change oil without cleaning filter
Probably I will go for a spark plug and air filter with Oil change at or ~9000Km mark
BTW the ambient outdoor temperature here is now around mid 40s C

Re: The Honda CB Twister

If the oil filter was never cleaned before then surely you must clean it. Normally bike needs 800ml oil for normal oil change but there is another 200ml of oil always trapped inside the oil filter element and clutch plate area which can be removed only by taking out oil filter and cleaning it. this old 200ml otherwise gets mixed with the fresh oil during normal oil change.Actually there is no harm in using synthetic oil after normal oil (without cleaning filter)since the grade of oil is same i.e 10W30.....but if you clean the oil filter then it is always good and you can further prolong the oil drain period to over 3k. A total of 800ml+200ml= 1 liter oil will be required after cleaning oil filter. last month i bought a 800ml Honda 10w30 bottle for INR 230.

Re: The Honda CB Twister

I hv gone thru this thread and installed this blue led in my head lights.. its so stylish and eye catching..thnks xbhp and guys


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Re: The Honda CB Twister

Hello guys,

I am a recent Honda CB Trigger owner, still posting in this thread because CB Trigger thread has almost no active members.
Thus wanted to have your views on one query regarding 'Run in' period, which is common for all bikes.

I have done around 330 km as off now and I have read somewhere that the engine oil should be changed at around this time and postponing the first servicing to 600-650km.
Do you recommend this ?? Will this at all help in better run in??
I found this quite logical as this will remove any metal parts scrapped off during first few kilometers.

Please advice

Re: The Honda CB Twister


Yep.. go for it buddy, it is advisable to change the engine oil before first service, as the new engine always have some small niggles metal part. If you its good for engine.

Also in run in period.. don't cross 40 - 45 speed till 1000 km

Re: The Honda CB Twister

With the new Tyre, I am getting 70kmpl, using shell petrol. The ride height is slightly increased because of the Tyre. Sometime I feel the wobbling feeling with this. Since I am traveling 65 km daily, any suggestions to improve the suspension.

Re: The Honda CB Twister

Check your back wheel alignment and look for any horizontal movement for bearing issue and correct air pressure would help too. Though i would have stick with the recommended Tyre size.

Re: The Honda CB Twister

Thanks, will be giving it for service, will ask then to check wheel alignment.

Re: The Honda CB Twister

Am posting here since Dream Yuga thread is quite inactive.
My previous rides were my friend’s TVS Apache & Honda Unicorn received on ‘loan’ and I used them for thousands of kms without any trouble. However my current bike Dream Yuga (mfg: Nov 2012, 7000 km till date) is giving me a lot of problems described below:

1. The clutch is not progressive enough. I tried all combinations of clutch setting from too tight to too loose but still the clutch tends to jump a bit during releasing. This jump sometimes stalls the bike. To avoid this I sometimes have to slip the clutch. The 'jumping' clutch leads to a characteristic chain sound as if it is hitting something. The clutch and chain problem increases if I have a pillion. I don’t ride the clutch and I expect the clutch plates to be in a good condition. Previously I thought that my chain set was defective. I put the bike on centre stand in gear, removed the chain cover and revved the engine. Looking from the rear wheel I could see the rear sprocket pulling in the chain. Also there would be a distinct point at which the chain would jump a little. I tried endless combinations to get the chain slack and alignment correct but was not successful. Finally I checked whether rear sprocket and hub is out on lathe machine. Found that both are 0.2 mm out. After this I put a new Diamond chain set but still facing the problem of chain noise during clutch release. Service centre is pathetic and I don’t want them to do experiments on my bike. Can rear nub be defective? Or there's problem with something else?
2. After a long journey (30 km +), even when engine is sufficiently hot, the gear shift remains notchy. Through sometimes when the bike has warmed up the gearshifts are very smooth.
3. Also after long journeys the engine tends to stall on depressing the clutch while changing gears when coasting down. And then the engine wont start unless giving throttle. AF ratio not correct I guess.
4. Fuel efficiency is about 58 kmpl currently. This is a drop from the 63 kmpl I was getting when the bike was new. Since my running is low (about 600 km/month) oil change and servicing is done every 4 months at authorised service centre.
5. 3 days ago, as I was returning from office, I was coasting down on a slope when suddenly the bike stalled. I first thought that I’d forgotten to turn the fuel cock but it was ‘on’. Inspite of repeated attempts the bike wont button start. Finally I tried the kick and found it to be absolutely loose (as if I’m using kick while depressing the clutch). I found no compression (hardness) in kick despite several attempts. Frustrated I pushed the bike to the nearest shade and waited. After 30 min again the button start wont work. I tried kick start and after 8-10 kicks the engine developed compression and started. What could be the issue? This compression has truly scared as I was not expecting this trouble in a new bike.

Both the chain and compression problem has left me deeply concerned about the health of my bike...

Re: The Honda CB Twister

If your clutch free play is adequate than its depends on the manner and timing of you disengagement. You should shift on proper rev range and progressive disengagement of clutch if you find it jerking. I also sometimes mistime it and as a result gets jumpy up-shifting with harder to shift leaver, but with proper timing the accelerator and clutch you can shift smoothly. The best way is to give someone a test ride like a mechanic and he can see if the shifting pattern is with your driving or with the vehicle.

For me with hotter engine shifting becomes little clunkier and some gears makes two distinctive clicks to engage (we have neutral in between 1 and 2) (1 down 3 up) DY might have all down shifting.

A proper chain slack is necessary and needs a experienced hand. with gentle acceleration driving you can make chain adjustment last bit longer but with cities stop and goes traffic you need frequent checking with cleaning and lubing(though you have chain cover). And stick to recommended slack and make sure alignment are correct on both the side are same some mechanics overlook it.
And yes the chain is bit jumpy as evident in my case too. but driving with misaligned wheel can make back sprocket bend and chain jumping and wear more prominent.

For these small capacity engines no needs to mess with AFR, I find factory settings best and make sure you take picture of the fuel screw position before messing around and there are paint marks on it to revert to factory settings. your stalling problem might be due to tinkering with ideal screw. get its checked its easier to fix

I found same scenario once and tried start button after few min and it started. Might be due to flooded engine. Check your user manual for proper starting procedure for : Cold engine, hot engine and flooded engine. and don't spam start button if it not start its sure recipe for dead battery

Re: The Honda CB Twister

I use Honda Throttle synthetic for last 2.5 years excellent expirence change is required only every 4500-5000 kms put only 800 ml from 1L bottle and get the 200 ml back with you

Re: The Honda CB Twister

Thank You. I am using the same for last 2000 km and topped up once. I could not source Shell retailer here so Throttle it is :_) for now at least
I find low end grunt is bit smoother i.e. less knocking on lower rev range/gear. Over all revving is bit easier and it has its toll : dropped FE ~5KM due increase in overall revving/speed. Vibrating fuel lid is making less noise ha ha.

Still temprature hoovering around 41 and riding in broad sun makes engine clunky with w30 oil irrespective of mineral or synthetic nature.
Riding at night or after rain its sounds normal.
And yes i also recommend a drain interval over 4k.

Re: The Honda CB Twister

Hi

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Stuck clutch in Dream Yuga...

Hi all..! In my previous post of 29 April I had mentioned about lack of compression in my Dream Yuga.. Back then the bike had automatically returned to normal..
Today again I'm facing the same problem. I had just started from my home when suddenly the bike stalled. Tried to start but found very little compression in kick lever. Then tried using kick by depressing clutch in 1st gear. Shocklingly the bike moved forward even though the clutch was depressed. Same happened in 2nd gear also. Tried multiple times but then gave up as I was afraid of damaging some internals in this process. That the bike is moving forward indicates that clutch is not disengaging even after depressing the lever. What could be the reason? Bike has done just 8000 km and I dont ride the clutch, so question of bust clutch plates does not arise. The bike hasn't started yet...

Please help...