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**stephencherian** · 08-15-2012, 12:24 AM

if anyone is looking for rx or rd restoration near MAVELIKARA,kerala, PM me! I'll link you to a great mechanic!! He is a 2 stroke expert!!! Will get you the original spares at good rates!!

**SriramEfunds** · 08-28-2012, 04:39 PM

Update:-

I've not using RX100 much these days. Blame it on traffic congestion towards my office and weekend is well spent on ZMA. I thought it's been a while since the plug reading was done. Please see the pics below and comment.

Odo:- 875kms
Timing: 22deg
Gearbox oil: Yamalube
2T oil:- Motomix (autolube + 1% premix)

Observation:- Bike still feels strain while taking beyond 60kmph. After plonking the YEIS, there is a slight improvement in acceleration i.e initials and mid-range. I've 2 bore gaskets thought it would prevent knocking while doing the run-in, offcourse it would bring down the compression. Advise, if I can go remove it. Before that, should I try testing with old reed valve to see if there's another culprit?

**yamdoot** · 08-28-2012, 06:13 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Update:-

I've not using RX100 much these days. Blame it on traffic congestion towards my office and weekend is well spent on ZMA. I thought it's been a while since the plug reading was done. Please see the pics below and comment.

Odo:- 875kms
Timing: 22deg
Gearbox oil: Yamalube
2T oil:- Motomix (autolube + 1% premix)

Observation:- Bike still feels strain while taking beyond 60kmph. After plonking the YEIS, there is a slight improvement in acceleration i.e initials and mid-range. I've 2 bore gaskets thought it would prevent knocking while doing the run-in, offcourse it would bring down the compression. Advise, if I can go remove it. Before that, should I try testing with old reed valve to see if there's another culprit?

Did u check the timing using a gun? Do a proper plug chop on a new plug Sri. remove the extra gasket. If the reed is new, no need to change it. Just check if there is no air leak at around the manifold and YEIS pipe joints.

**psr** · 08-28-2012, 06:47 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Update:-

Observation:- Bike still feels strain while taking beyond 60kmph. After plonking the YEIS, there is a slight improvement in acceleration i.e initials and mid-range. I've 2 bore gaskets thought it would prevent knocking while doing the run-in, offcourse it would bring down the compression. Advise, if I can go remove it. Before that, should I try testing with old reed valve to see if there's another culprit?

Remove the additional gasket,since it is reducing stock compression.
Your spark plug shows marginally rich AFR....What is with the reed valve ? you have a new stock one isn't it ?...is it any way different from stock steel ones ?

**SriramEfunds** · 08-28-2012, 06:54 PM

Originally posted by yamdoot View Post

Did u check the timing using a gun? Do a proper plug chop on a new plug Sri. remove the extra gasket. If the reed is new, no need to change it. Just check if there is no air leak at around the manifold and YEIS pipe joints.

Yes Nitesh, the gun was used to set the timing. Ok will do plug chop this weekend.

Originally posted by psr View Post

Remove the additional gasket,since it is reducing stock compression.
Your spark plug shows marginally rich AFR....What is with the reed valve ? you have a new stock one isn't it ?...is it any way different from stock steel ones ?

I'll remove the extra gasket. Even I thought it is running just right as I can see traces of chocolate brown on the plug.

The bike runs on new reed valve. But wondering if the old one would make a difference.

**yamdoot** · 08-28-2012, 07:28 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Yes Nitesh, the gun was used to set the timing. Ok will do plug chop this weekend.

Ok. at what RPM? it should be checked at 3k Rpms after raising the idle by the idle screw [and not holding the throttle by hand] .
If u want to tune the carb, start from screwing the air screw all the way in [ increase the idle beforehand, at 2k] . then slowly come out anticlockwise by 1/4th of a circle each time and observe the engine note. there will be a time when the RPMs go down. Thats where u stop n turn the airscrew back clockwise by 1/4 turn. This is ideally around 1-1.5 turns out in stock machines. [ on an ideal setting, the RPMs should go up as the screw is turned in clockwise ] . Finally readjust the idle.

Do this before your plug chop.

**SriramEfunds** · 08-28-2012, 08:08 PM

Originally posted by yamdoot View Post

Ok. at what RPM? it should be checked at 3k Rpms after raising the idle by the idle screw [and not holding the throttle by hand] .
If u want to tune the carb, start from screwing the air screw all the way in [ increase the idle beforehand, at 2k] . then slowly come out anticlockwise by 1/4th of a circle each time and observe the engine note. there will be a time when the RPMs go down. Thats where u stop n turn the airscrew back clockwise by 1/4 turn. This is ideally around 1-1.5 turns out in stock machines. [ on an ideal setting, the RPMs should go up as the screw is turned in clockwise ] . Finally readjust the idle.

Do this before your plug chop.

I did not have Tacho to check the RPM at which it was timing was set. Thanks for the input. Will check this out.

**psr** · 08-28-2012, 09:03 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

I did not have Tacho to check the RPM at which it was timing was set. Thanks for the input. Will check this out.

A new reed valve will have better tension to flip back and close inlet than the old one .....so stick to the new one.

**Ri$hi** · 09-05-2012, 07:55 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

brakes - sucks! had changed the rear to ASK local make and it works better.

Have heard from my mechanic that YBX brake shoes can be used on RX for better stopping. Though haven't tried that myself.

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

I'm still not forunate to get the neutral switch cap (black rubber).

What neutral switch cap are You talking about here?

**SriramEfunds** · 09-05-2012, 08:23 PM

Originally posted by Ri$hi View Post

Have heard from my mechanic that YBX brake shoes can be used on RX for better stopping. Though haven't tried that myself.

I thought Gladiator's is what you get these days and it is direct fit for RX.

What neutral switch cap are You talking about here?

If you know where neutral switch is.

**vijaymeyou** · 09-06-2012, 01:43 AM

Originally posted by Ri$hi View Post

Have heard from my mechanic that YBX brake shoes can be used on RX for better stopping.

Though haven't tried that myself.

Hi Rishi,

Yamaha RX-100/ 135/ YBK/ Crux/ RXG/ RXZ/ Libero/ Enticer/Gladiator shares same brake shoe 130 mm 1L1.05.08.00

Vijay

**yamdoot** · 09-06-2012, 02:13 AM

Originally posted by Ri$hi View Post

Have heard from my mechanic that YBX brake shoes can be used on RX for better stopping. Though haven't tried that myself.

Another mechanic trying to mislead. You get local made brake shoes which are a bit oversized .. he means those mostly.

**SriramEfunds** · 11-10-2012, 01:28 PM

After a long time posting here..

Bike runs good, only clocked 1200 odd kms so far. It's a bit of a challenge as I cannot be partial towards one.
Also, planning to get the used RX100 G-1 bore turned next oversize and keep it for future, got hold of Original Japanese RX100 3rd Oversize Piston Rings. Size 50.75mm but not the piston.

Is it possible to source Escorts-Mahle 3rd O/S Piston?

**karthikdattag** · 11-12-2012, 12:53 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Also, planning to get the used RX100 G-1 bore turned next oversize and keep it for future,

What is so special about G-Series Bore? Why cant we use "I-Series" bore (which is abundantly available in YASS)? Any specific reason?

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Is it possible to source Escorts-Mahle 3rd O/S Piston?

Possible.

**SriramEfunds** · 11-12-2012, 02:13 PM

Originally posted by karthikdattag View Post

What is so special about G-Series Bore? Why cant we use "I-Series" bore (which is abundantly available in YASS)? Any specific reason?

Karthik - The bore I'm talking about is the one which came along with the bike(.50 size). I had kept it separately then. Now I would like to bore to next oversize i.e .75 and keep. I've just shared my thoughts on re-boring and checking if Escorts-Mahle Piston kit is available.

Possible.

That's good news to me.

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