Announcement

**aargee** · 09-01-2010, 01:39 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Aargee - Go for Motul 5100 (semi synthetic). For once try it, you will love the smoothness. My bike is already addicted to it.

Originally posted by BigBore View Post

Thats the best oil for the gearobox

Oh!!! God!!! now you guys want me to drive to city? Well, OK be it then. Sri, here I come. I've completed cleaning the carbs (jet size 180/15 confirmed), air filter cleaned, oil completely drained.

**Sandeep_K_Ram** · 09-01-2010, 02:33 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Is it 4T AGIP oil you taking about ?

yup.

Originally posted by aargee View Post

Thanks Sandeep for the suggestion; I'll try getting a AGIP 20W40 but not sure how much I can succeed; any recommendations with Shell?

Yes, the motorcycle is running damn rich; is there any special meaning on wet rich or dry rich? I've noticed one of our fellow members was dry & black & I was wondering why mine is wet, I assumed it was due to unburnt oil. Could you help me understand pls? Tks.

I haven't tried Shell. Previously I was using Power 1 and it was ok for the most part except that on longer rides the gears would harden up considerably after lot of shifts - especially on climbs and descent.

I am also considering a synthetic but will finish this fill of Agip first.

Wet/Dry coated plug - in the end, it can just foul the plug ...how much oil are you adding ? I know its running in period...still .. ?

Some pointers here :

Principles of 2-Stroke Jetting & Reading Spark Plugs

http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg

Century Performance Center, Inc. :: Spark Plug Reading

Anyway - always carry a spare plug and the plug remover

**aargee** · 09-01-2010, 03:43 PM

Originally posted by Sandeep_K_Ram View Post

Wet/Dry coated plug - in the end, it can just foul the plug ...how much oil are you adding ? I know its running in period...still .. ?

I'm adding about 30ml per litre of petrol. I know its too much, but, since I don't have a side oil tank & sometimes I wide open, I don't want any mess up. Do you think I need to reduce the oil mix for my requirement?

Thanks Sandeep.

Originally posted by Sandeep_K_Ram View Post

Anyway - always carry a spare plug and the plug remover

Oh!!! its not that bad; the plug can easily last for 10K Kms. I've been mixing 30 ml for, say about, 3 years & 20K kms now?

**aargee** · 09-02-2010, 03:33 PM

Whoa!!! Looks like my morning updates are lost in a crash!!! Anyway, I'll repost

**SriramEfunds** · 09-02-2010, 08:50 PM

Aargee: What have you decided on the gearbox oil?

I know you are a big fan of Shell. Might as well consider to try other brands.

You have some very good options out there;

1. Motul 5100 (semi synthetic) - I have been using for more than 7 months now and it is absolutely amazing results. Goodwill Agencies has got stock.

2. AGIP 4T 10W40 (Fully Synthetic) - I'm using that on my Unicorn, recently took it for Horsley Hills trip, the transmission is butter smooth. You might want to contact Rajesh for the CAN.

Since you have just completed the run-in period, would advise to go for semi-synthetic. This would cater your requirement and it affordable.

Let me know what have you decided.

**aargee** · 09-02-2010, 09:38 PM

Haha...I took AGIP Diesel Engine oil

as I could only get that. The guy also offered me 4T on Shell, but I did not consider that one. I choose AGIP Diesel because of my previous experience from Castrol CRB & Yercaud trip. I'll post the pic of Engine oil tomorrow.

Meanwhile, the update I posted in the morning are...
1. Airfilter cleaned up using Rin & Surf

& sprayed 2T oil. The result is amazing. I've the pic & will post tomorrow.
2. Washed (rather wiped) using Sonax car shampoo

& applied Waxpol on tank, swing arm & L brackets

The only pics I've to post are AGIP, air filter after cleaning with rin/surf & then applying 2T oil.

Trust me, the result is excellent to clean the air filter with rin/surf & soak in 2T rather than cleaning the airfilter using petrol. Amazing thing is that the wrinkles are gone now & looks like brand new. I'll post the pic tomorrow.

**SriramEfunds** · 09-02-2010, 10:45 PM

I happened to flip through the Yamaha RX135 Owners Manual today. I saw they have suggested NGK BPR8HS. However, the service centers have and recommend using NGK BPR7HS. I wonder why there should be a change?

I somehow found a used plug NGK BPR8HS with me and checked for the spark. It is good. However, thought would let everyone know of the fact.

Can we discuss this?

**psycho 98** · 09-02-2010, 11:57 PM

I hope that diesel engine oil is for wet clutch, usually the cars clutch is dry, if we use the same oil chances of clutch slippage is high.

**aargee** · 09-03-2010, 01:16 PM

Originally posted by psycho 98 View Post

I hope that diesel engine oil is for wet clutch, usually the cars clutch is dry, if we use the same oil chances of clutch slippage is high.

Hmm...Ok give me atleast a 500 Kms run to make a concrete report on this. If there's a clutch slipage, then, I'll swith to what Sri says w.r.t Motul.

**Sandeep_K_Ram** · 09-03-2010, 06:19 PM

In general car engine oils will have certain "friction modifiers" which are meant to reduce friction ... this can be disastrous if you use it in a wet clutch multiplate setup on our bikes. So be a bit wary of car engine oils.

30ml is ok. Its normal I would say. But it seemed to be running excessively rich. Hence I suggested to carry a spare plug in case you foul this one.

NGK BPR8HS is a colder plug compared to BPR7HS. A lot of ppl recommend 8HS - especially for a 5speed. I find the 8HS to be pretty much the same as a 7HS in terms of performance but a lot of ppl would say otherwise.

**psycho 98** · 09-03-2010, 06:33 PM

The heat factors varies a lot compared to 7hs and 8hs 8hs is nice for ported setups.

**SriramEfunds** · 09-03-2010, 09:06 PM

Originally posted by Sandeep_K_Ram View Post

NGK BPR8HS is a colder plug compared to BPR7HS. A lot of ppl recommend 8HS - especially for a 5speed. I find the 8HS to be pretty much the same as a 7HS in terms of performance but a lot of ppl would say otherwise.

Originally posted by psycho 98 View Post

The heat factors varies a lot compared to 7hs and 8hs 8hs is nice for ported setups.

Thanks Sandeep/Pradeep for your valuable inputs. I had asked this question since the manual said so. After reading above posts, it tends to ask me another question, what does 5 speed owner's manual say is ideal (I wonder)? Is it 7HS or 8HS?

If 8HS is a colder plug, does that mean would harm my engine in the longer run? Don't we agree that we should go with what company recommends?

Although these days, I was only given 7HS from the Y.A.S.S when asked for a plug saying this is what is recommended.

My objective of bring this to discussion is to find out the deviation from the company's recommendation and the pros/cons.

**SriramEfunds** · 09-03-2010, 11:06 PM

Originally posted by arvindraju

Sriram i own both a 4speed & a 5speed,let me tell you using the Right heat range plug is important. i.e neither to cold nor too hot

4speed: 7HS
5speed: 8HS

Note: aware of Fake 8HS floating in the markets,NGK does not supply 8HS to the indian market

Thanks Arvind for the response.

Please find my stupid question below:

Still wonder where it is written that 4 speed - 7HS? If you can direct me to some source of information would be much appreciated. I can start cursing Yamaha Motor India for misleading information on Owner's Manual.

I bought a spare 8HS plug from Paras Yamaha (Y.A.S.S) little over 8 months back.

I think shogun came with 8HS too.

**psycho 98** · 09-03-2010, 11:30 PM

Check the workshop manuals you will come to know.

**NitinGirish** · 09-03-2010, 11:39 PM

Originally posted by arvindraju

Sriram i own both a 4speed & a 5speed

When did this happen

You bought a 4S?

Announcement

RX rebuild Using 3 Yamaha Variants

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment