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  • Hi buddies!!!

    I just came back from a 1050 kms ride from Bangalore to Munnar and back.Just wanted to share my experience w.r.t the Agip fully synthetic engine oil which I had put(5W40).

    I feel as if my engine's smoothness is gone once it crosses 100.The vibrations creep in.While coming back I faced another strange thing. I found that the rear wheel is jammed up.not moving freely as it used to be.

    The mechanic at BikeTech (where I ad given for service, formerly known as castrol Bike Zone) had played up with the carburettor tuning adjustment. I asked him why he was doing so n he replied saying that it is needed since you have just put the fully synthetic oil. Though I have got an average of 36+kmpl still then I would expect more smoothness and performance from my bike.Only thing good about the new oil is that my gears have become smoother like Unicorn.

    Could you please help me guys as to why i m experiencing this.Should I have stuck to the original oil or should i have gone for Motul/CPR1.So many doubts going on in my mind n m restless to make my zma just as it was before.One thing i noticed is that it is revving similarly. I mean 3.5k [email protected] as before.

    Please hepl me out guys...

    Comment


    • Originally posted by thefalcon View Post
      guys, any idea how much this oil costs

      Shell Advance VSX4 10W-40..

      And can just drain the mineral oil (veedol 20w40) currently in my bike and pour this without changing the oil filter ??

      (i'm worried because around 50-100ml of the previous mineral oil will still be left in the oil filter and i want to know if mixing this with the SS oil will cause any adverse effects to oil)
      you should change the oil filter
      Speak Less,Speak Wise!

      Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.

      Comment


      • Oh!!! he had just changed the air filter but not sure if he had changed the oil filter.

        btw, how much would the oil filter cost for zmaR?

        n wat could be the reason for the rear tyre jamming problem???

        Any idea guys???

        Comment


        • Originally posted by biker_abhi View Post
          ...
          ....Should I have stuck to the original oil or should i have gone for Motul/CPR1.So many doubts going on in my mind n m restless to make my zma just as it was before.One thing i noticed is that it is revving similarly. I mean 3.5k [email protected] as before.

          Please hepl me out guys...
          "RPM vis-a-vis KMPH" has nothing to do with oil. Any oil or no oil will give the same KMPH/RPM on a given Gear.

          As far as engine oil is concern. CP1R has been very good for my Zma-R. I am currently using Motul 300v 15w50 and has done 1k so far. I have written a review some posts back. Its going great, however WARNING: I will not recommend this to you as the grade is 2 steps above factory recommended grade and I am still experimenting on it. Its my bike, and if anything goes wrong, I bang my head, no big deal there. Though you try CP1R or Motul 300v 5/10w40 if available.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by thefalcon View Post
            (i'm worried because around 50-100ml of the previous mineral oil will still be left in the oil filter and i want to know if mixing this with the SS oil will cause any adverse effects to oil)
            No need to change the filter if it is good. But if you can change it it would be better.

            You are thinking of ~50ml oil in filter. Even when you drain the oil completely & change the oil filter, about 150 to 200 ml of oil would still remain inside the engine. Your new oil mixes with that.

            Originally posted by biker_abhi View Post
            Oh!!! he had just changed the air filter but not sure if he had changed the oil filter.
            n wat could be the reason for the rear tyre jamming problem???
            ZMA has no oil filter.
            Rear wheel, please check the following things:
            1) if the chain is very tight
            2) if the brake shoe & its spring is all right
            3) if the wheel bearings need a replacement
            4) if there is anything obstructing the wheel or the tyre rubbing against something - possibly due to misalignment
            ... a few I can think off!

            BTW, engine oil wouldn't effect the speeds at given RPM.

            Not 100% sure what made your bike run rough at high speeds but why the hell the mechanic had to fiddle with the carbutettor. That can change a lot of stuff. Please get that set right!
            Last edited by HydBiker; 04-07-2010, 05:31 PM.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by HydBiker View Post
              Rear wheel, please check the following things:
              1) if the chain is very tight
              2) if the brake show is all right
              3) if the wheel bearings need a replacement
              4) if there is anything obstructing the wheel or the tyre rubbing against something - possibly due to misalignment
              ... a few I can think off!
              One more.Sometimes while tightening the rear wheels nuts, the wheels will not spin freely. I have to loosen the nuts, do some adjustments and re-tighten them. Have not been able to pin-point the reason. But I just work on it till I get it right.

              Comment


              • First of all thanks a lot guys!!!

                You guys are awesome!!!

                BTW, do u suggest me t go to the same guy for setting up the tuning or should I go to an authorised HH showroom guy.

                Or would it be wise to do it on my own. Coz I was just going through another thread regarding how to tune your bike.

                Please advise

                Comment


                • ^^^ you can do it but how would you kow you've got the right setting?

                  You gotta set it by checking with a CO machine. Check if your HH SC guys have a CO machine and if they can do it in front of you.

                  Comment


                  • m sorry but wat does CO stand for???

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by biker_abhi View Post
                      m sorry but wat does CO stand for???
                      CO is one of the gases that come out of your exhaust...

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by lijok View Post
                        CO is one of the gases that come out of your exhaust...
                        Which exhaust? Bike's or mine?

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by biker_abhi View Post
                          m sorry but wat does CO stand for???
                          its the chemical formula for the gaseous compund - Carbon Monoxide.

                          For the settings to be correct...the reading on the CO machine(which measures the CO level emitted) should be under the permissible limit.
                          Just because you haven't seen it doesnt mean its impossible...expect the unexpected.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by haxor View Post
                            you should change the oil filter

                            Originally posted by HydBiker View Post
                            No need to change the filter if it is good. But if you can change it it would be better.

                            You are thinking of ~50ml oil in filter. Even when you drain the oil completely & change the oil filter, about 150 to 200 ml of oil would still remain inside the engine. Your new oil mixes with that.
                            I'm a bit confused here

                            I just changed the oil filter 200km back.. guess i'll keep the same one since its pretty new and since it will mix with the remaining 200ml oil anyways..

                            Any review about the oil though ??
                            I found shell mineral oil to be pretty awesome, is shell semi synthetic the best in SS oil range ??

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by HydBiker View Post
                              is there any difference in gear shift when the engine is cold or when it is hot?

                              Has the gear shift become hard or clunky? sometimes all that is needed is a little adjustment to the clutch cable.
                              I do not feel any diff. .It has become clunky and i will check the clutch cable .
                              sigpic

                              Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by kjayakannan View Post
                                Guys, what grade I have to use it for my stock RX100 Motul 300v 10w40?
                                AFAIK , RX100 is a 2 Stroke ;

                                Originally posted by HydBiker View Post
                                RX100 stock grade is 20W40. You may use 10W40 happily.
                                and 300V is available for only 4 strokes.

                                I'm glad to hear that but am a little surprised to hear a Pulsar not leaking oil from seals with 300V. Touch wood.
                                That doesnt surprise me as i ve seen a handful of pulsars using 300V and not leaking. Which includes mine as well.
                                When everything comes ur way, u r in the wrong way ;)

                                Comment

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