Originally Posted by nox2505

Whats the tappet clearance you are running right now?

Originally Posted by flyingJian

I have clocked around 9500kms but have never adujsted tappet clearance. Never had an issue like this so i doubt even the svc guys have adjusted it although bike had 4 free services. One good day bike was running fine and all of a sudden after riding for 15 kms this problem creep in and since that day its increasing day by day. So is it because of tappet clearance thing or something else?

Originally Posted by nox2505

@ Chicane, read it. i have posted possible cause for higher problems in RTR180 in the thread. Problem is faced by RTR160 owners also. ask onlinesatish, satyenpoojari.

Originally Posted by Grizder

Hi guys, i have a small problem here. My rear tyre got torn by small metal piece so i left my bike in the scv center and asked them to repair the puncture. After a few hours they called me back and said that it ll cost me 600rs as it not a small puncture but a cut in the tyre . Since it is 1/3 the price of the tyre i wasn't sure of the performance of the tyre after the repair so decided to get a new one.

i have seen u guys changing the rear tyre to R15's rear tyre and IRC tyre.... i tried for the irc but it wasn't available so i went to an MRF shop and asked for zapper q the shop keeper showed to me that zapper q had a completely diff tyre profile ie in 18'

He gave me a zapper vyde which was 120/80-17' i thought of buying it but he said he wasn't sure if it would fit my bike as the wider tyre may come in contact with the side parts. He wanted me to verify before buying the tyre as there was no returning back...

Will zapper vyde 120/80-17' ll fit our rear tyre and what are the other options in mrf i have? If i had to go for zapper q what profile should i look for??

He said it ll cost me 2250 is the price rite??

Originally Posted by Grizder

Hi guys, i have a small problem here. My rear tyre got torn by small metal piece so i left my bike in the scv center and asked them to repair the puncture. After a few hours they called me back and said that it ll cost me 600rs as it not a small puncture but a cut in the tyre . Since it is 1/3 the price of the tyre i wasn't sure of the performance of the tyre after the repair so decided to get a new one.

i have seen u guys changing the rear tyre to R15's rear tyre and IRC tyre.... i tried for the irc but it wasn't available so i went to an MRF shop and asked for zapper q the shop keeper showed to me that zapper q had a completely diff tyre profile ie in 18'

He gave me a zapper vyde which was 120/80-17' i thought of buying it but he said he wasn't sure if it would fit my bike as the wider tyre may come in contact with the side parts. He wanted me to verify before buying the tyre as there was no returning back...

Will zapper vyde 120/80-17' ll fit our rear tyre and what are the other options in mrf i have? If i had to go for zapper q what profile should i look for??

He said it ll cost me 2250 is the price rite??

Originally Posted by dead_piper

we can remove the rubber foot pegs n have a sporty looking pegs..... i read about this somewhere n remover my rear rubber n this is what i found sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

how awesome is that

Originally Posted by chicane1879

I have read it many a times. So do you mean to say that increasing the idle rpm would solve the failure of the sprag clutch.

A mechanical part always has a factor of safety (I know this very well. I am into designing only) which shows the amount of stress it can handle. As the one-way clutch's function is to move in only one-direction a counter force (same thing happens when driven rotates slowly an d owner is still rotating driver by keeping the button pressed, but happens graually and not with bang cos rollers will keep on rubbing with recess and wear out early) could only be able to break and overcome it's strength threshold which in motorcycle's sprag clutch failures is kickback(engine-backfiring) which is cause due to ignition issues/low battery issues/AFR setting (this happens with sudden back firing i.e. zataka while in case as i explained, it happens gradually) .

So if we take your reason into account, then no way increasing the idle rpm would have an effect on the engine. Lowering the idle rpm will make starting of the engine difficult which will put effect on the starter motor(as well as the battery) as a whole and will require more effort to start , that's it. So just lowering the idle rpm in no way causes an engine to break a mechanical part which requires a more powerful force.
(With faster engine, rollers won't rub on recess instead, will be thrown in the cavity.)


Reasons for sprag-clutch failures:

Kickback: During early morning starts, many a times we encounter kickbacks while kick-starting. Now, Imagine the same thing happening to the sprag clutch when it wants to drive the crankshaft.This opposite/rebound/counter force is enough to break the clutch and that is the reason one here's a loud banging noise while starting.It will happen for 2-3 times until it gives up one day.

Even premature ignition/misfiring signal can cause backfiring. And that is why the TCis are replaced along with one-way clutch Also it is advisable to keep it easy on the throttle while applying electric start.

Inferior Quality of Clutch Material could also be blamed for the failures, so we see stray cases of it's failure as some particular batches come up with this issue.

PS:A bike with leaner AFR setting has more chances of kickback.(very obvious)

I never denied it.
one way clutches on 160, 160 fi and 180 are same (on first batch of RTR180, it was different-.....as i heard).