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  • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

    Originally posted by Mad Mik View Post
    When you decide to tear down the engine, can you do me a favor for my curiosity and more than likely yours and the viewers playing at home, can you carefully remove the piston rings and carefully insert them into the bore, Then measure the ring end gaps, The top, middle and bottom of the stroke too. Write these down and then compare between your new engines rings.

    Also how did u run this engine in? If I recall it was careful careful?

    Took me a while to scroll back and find the writeup on your compression tests.
    I have a couple questions.
    The test was done on a cold engine or Hot?
    this report was the results of your "dry" test? Did you squirt some oil into the cylinder then repeat the test? Regardless if the gauge was reading wrong, the numbers are just a reference point on the sweep of the needle.

    The reason why I'm asking is. The dry test will be for the valve seats. Test the valves are sealing against the seats.
    The wet test is to test the rings. the oil will help seal up any gaps in the rings, Providing a more complete seal for a few strokes needed to test the compression.
    If you did the test wet (after the dry of course) you may notice the needle reading higher, then you can safely say its the rings, If the needle stays the same (pressure reading 98-99psi) then you can say its the valve seat/s.

    Hot test will give different readings again but closer to engine operating temps, where the metal has expanded and closed up any small holes (piston ring end gaps for example) and create a better seal.

    Just a couple things to think about next time you are running compression tests.

    As always, your inputs always throw an insight, Thanks mate.


    Engine run-in was done as per the instruction of the seller. Your suggestions regarding the test came a bit too late, but just for the record the compression test was done when the engine was warm. There was no point of going for the wet test as by then we had already figured out that the readings were way off then normal and gauge was also throwing in the same nos on another new bike.. Even with a completely new engine head with different set of new valve train system, there is still slight oil fouling, engine oil discolouration and consumption of engine oil, i am keeping a check on it and topping it up when necessary. So unless this head has a possible valve leak as well my guess is the rings have lost the sealing properties.

    When the new bore is put in, the dry and wet test will be done to ensure that we get the readings precise and also that the compression ratio doesn't go higher then the what can be considered as safe for the engine.

    I am considering of shifting to mineral oil with thicker viscosity like PSRJi has suggested to see if the engine oil consumption reduces and with add on ZDDP and other minerals i can keep the rest of the engine safe till the replacement NiKaSil kits arrive.

    Cheers,
    A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

    Comment


    • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

      Originally posted by shv18 View Post

      When the new bore is put in, the dry and wet test will be done to ensure that we get the readings precise and also that the compression ratio doesn't go higher then the what can be considered as safe for the engine.
      You should be calculating the CR BEFORE you assemble the engine, Not after.
      2013 Ducati M795 with a few mods in here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/superbik...95-owners.html
      Want to talk about modding your FZ? http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tech-talk.html
      My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/FZSMik/videos

      Comment


      • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

        Originally posted by Mad Mik View Post
        You should be calculating the CR BEFORE you assemble the engine, Not after.
        Point noted mate..


        Cheers,
        A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

        Comment


        • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

          A resting 4 stroke engine which has no flowing oil will show lower compression (psi)figures..but on the engine turning over more than 5 crankshaft rotation, engine oil would have started circulating, and would have formed a thin layer in the bore, and the Piston Oil ring will be holding enough oil to continue lubrication of the bore and rings...so a compression test taken after the first 5 or more rotation of the crankshaft will definitely show the correct compression ...
          Just my thought
          When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

          Comment


          • Gtech RR Pro Fanatic Precision Series & Head and high lift cam report, 25th Aug, 2013

            Hi All,

            I am happy to announce that riding my FZ - X now has become even better. I am loving the fact that at 1/4th or 2/4th throttle i can easily cruise at 70 - 80 kmph all day long if i want thanks to the new ported head and ever so silent cam making the over all rideability factor go up ten folds. Just that the bore leakage headache is keeping me from going for long distance runs.

            Regardless, FE has been consistently hovering around 35 - 38 kmpl which is a good sign.

            Thanks to abhimanyu31, i now also have access to Gtech RR Pro Fanatic Precision Series GPS data logger. So do expect speed runs taking place with proper GPS data the next time i upgrade to the NiKaSil kit. Waiting for Motozone ​ to finish their prototype asap.






            Motozone has confirmed that the stock replica free flow exhaust for FZ will also be Dyno tested and the nos. shall be shared with you all gentlemen. So unlike our Tooner there will be no "Tall Claims all over..." if you know what i am saying..

            Facts, data, extensive tests and the results.. PERIOD!!

            until then...


            Cheers,
            Last edited by shv18; 08-26-2013, 08:08 AM.
            A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

            Comment


            • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

              Originally posted by psr View Post
              A resting 4 stroke engine which has no flowing oil will show lower compression (psi)figures..but on the engine turning over more than 5 crankshaft rotation, engine oil would have started circulating, and would have formed a thin layer in the bore, and the Piston Oil ring will be holding enough oil to continue lubrication of the bore and rings...so a compression test taken after the first 5 or more rotation of the crankshaft will definitely show the correct compression ...
              Just my thought
              This is why you want to crank the engine over for around 5-7 seconds (with WOT), Your engine is heavy, so it takes time (rotations) for the starter motor to build up the minimum RPM's required for a comp test. Also your battery needs to be fully charged so you can get the minimum rpm (250rpm IIRC, Its been a while) Many factors need to be taken into account when doing a Comp Test, Not just plug in the gauge and spin the engine.

              The oil will be splashing onto the bore as the crank counterweights rotate through the oil in the sump, But this is a very small amount, The oil scraper rings will be scraping the majority back down the bore and the compression rings will not have enough to create an adequate seal should they not be sealing.

              One tip when starting a brand new engine, Squirt a couple pumps of the engine oil from a oil can into the cylinder via the sparkplug hole, Then let the engine crank over minus the sparkplug so the oil coats the cyl walls and piston. Just place a rag over the plug hole incase oil gets pumped out.
              This will ensure that when you start the engine there is sufficient oil on the bores, Yes it will burn and smoke for 3-5 seconds at startup but then again you don't get the dry metal on metal hard starts.
              2013 Ducati M795 with a few mods in here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/superbik...95-owners.html
              Want to talk about modding your FZ? http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tech-talk.html
              My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/FZSMik/videos

              Comment


              • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

                It has been a great learning experience to read the information on this thread.
                Thank you [MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION] for elaborating each and every detail with a non biased view towards the seller.

                Makes me want to get these upgrades from Motozone myself :P

                Would love to see the work done on your bike someday.

                Cheers,
                Ride Safe.
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                • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

                  Originally posted by santosh.k View Post
                  It has been a great learning experience to read the information on this thread.
                  Thank you @shv18 for elaborating each and every detail with a non biased view towards the seller.

                  Makes me want to get these upgrades from Motozone myself :P

                  Would love to see the work done on your bike someday.

                  Cheers,
                  Ride Safe.
                  Until i am satisfied with the build i will not recommend any of the kits from Motozone just yet. Proper tests and ownership experience with data will give the prospective hot roders facts and figures to substantiate the claims made. I want to ensure that the same mistakes are not being made here where initially there is a lot of buzz from the hot rodded bike owners and then suddenly they all disappear from xbhp without providing any updates...

                  Hopefully that will not happen in this case..


                  Cheers,
                  A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

                  Comment


                  • Re: Amateur speed run with Leo Vince DB insert,Test Report, 22th Aug, 2013

                    Originally posted by shv18 View Post
                    Until i am satisfied with the build i will not recommend any of the kits from Motozone just yet. Proper tests and ownership experience with data will give the prospective hot roders facts and figures to substantiate the claims made. I want to ensure that the same mistakes are not being made here where initially there is a lot of buzz from the hot rodded bike owners and then suddenly they all disappear from xbhp without providing any updates...

                    Hopefully that will not happen in this case..


                    Cheers,
                    Good to see that there are no biased opinion,or hatred spread or flaming taking place here...Shiv18 your posts are an eye opener and are well balanced....Keep it up, you are doing a great service to the un initiated, with bare facts...
                    Good Luck..
                    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                    Comment


                    • Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

                      From what I have read in first 38 pages( yet to read the rest ) its best to mod only fuel injected bike than carb ones. An after market ecu with custom map for bigger bore will do the job
                      And I guess you guys have understood how much time a manufacturer spends just to make fuelling perfect.. Several trial runs until they get it perfect out of that awsm piece of engineering called the carburetor. Carbs are not PLUG AND PLAY things.

                      Also the success rate of these kits are around 25% . And the quality of these kits from JOEL is decreasing day by day. My friends R15 kit had a microscopic crack in the bore which lead to coolant mixing with oil as the crack expands when engine gets hot. And every time he got a replacement, the bores were of different size. So think how much care he takes while machining these parts.

                      Conclusion: Go for these kits only when you have another bike to tour( you can't enjoy the tour having the fear of breakdown in your mind) or as a spare and also if you have a load of money in your bank account to shed just to make the so called PLUG AND PLAY KIT to work properly and also for reverting it to stock later on

                      NOTE: On offence. Just told my opinion. I know many here have the kits working for 15k+ km. But you are the few lucky ones who got it perfect and mostly its on FI bike. I heard more failures than success.

                      Also I just have 1% of the knowledge you people have. These observations are from what I read from the 38 pages and from what I heard. So if an wrong anywhere you have every right to correct me
                      Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "

                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

                        Originally posted by siddharthsure View Post
                        From what I have read in first 38 pages( yet to read the rest ) its best to mod only fuel injected bike than carb ones. An after market ecu with custom map for bigger bore will do the job
                        And I guess you guys have understood how much time a manufacturer spends just to make fuelling perfect.. Several trial runs until they get it perfect out of that awsm piece of engineering called the carburetor. Carbs are not PLUG AND PLAY things.

                        Also the success rate of these kits are around 25% . And the quality of these kits from JOEL is decreasing day by day. My friends R15 kit had a microscopic crack in the bore which lead to coolant mixing with oil as the crack expands when engine gets hot. And every time he got a replacement, the bores were of different size. So think how much care he takes while machining these parts.

                        Conclusion: Go for these kits only when you have another bike to tour( you can't enjoy the tour having the fear of breakdown in your mind) or as a spare and also if you have a load of money in your bank account to shed just to make the so called PLUG AND PLAY KIT to work properly and also for reverting it to stock later on

                        NOTE: On offence. Just told my opinion. I know many here have the kits working for 15k+ km. But you are the few lucky ones who got it perfect and mostly its on FI bike. I heard more failures than success.

                        Also I just have 1% of the knowledge you people have. These observations are from what I read from the 38 pages and from what I heard. So if an wrong anywhere you have every right to correct me
                        The problem is not with the bike or the process of hot roding but the shoddy quality of kits, customers taken for a ride and a series of mis-information being shared by the "Tooner". To keep my thirst for hot roding satiated, i have gone ahead with taking my FZ -X further in a new way and from a tuning house, Motozone which seems to have better know how and a very methodical approach towards a build. I can immediately see the results on my bike. I am yet to finish my tests but the way the turnaround has happened with the transformation of my bike minus all the headaches is commendable and the same has been shared on this thread for all you gentlemen.

                        If the process is followed correctly and the right parts are used a hot roded bike can be reliable and i still stand by statement. You need the read the rest of the pages and then should have a concluding statement i feel.

                        Just one correction mate: a carburetted bike/car can generate way more power than an FI bike/car and can be tuned to any extent. The same stands true with all the drag motors built in the States and all across the world.


                        Cheers,
                        Last edited by shv18; 08-28-2013, 12:49 PM.
                        A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

                        Comment


                        • Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

                          Originally posted by shv18 View Post
                          The problem is not with the bike or the process of hot roding but the shoddy quality of kits, customers taken for a ride and a series of mis-information being shared by the "Tooner". To keep my thirst for hot roding satiated, i have gone ahead with taking my FZ -X further in a new way and from a tuning house, Motozone which seems to have better know how and a very methodical approach towards a build. I can immediately see the results on my bike. I am yet to finish my tests but the way the turnaround has happened with the transformation of my bike minus all the headaches is commendable and the same has been shared on this thread for all you gentlemen.

                          If the process is followed correctly and the right parts are used a hot roded bike can be reliable and i still stand by statement. You need the read the rest of the pages and then should have a concluding statement i feel.

                          Just one correction mate: a carburetted bike/car can generate way more power than an FI bike/car and can be tuned to any extent. The same stands true with all the drag motors built in the States and all across the world.


                          Cheers,
                          Yup!! Will read and yea agree carb can generate more power than FI. Both has its advantage and disadvantages. But FI has improved a lot reducing its disadvantages. If you are only for drag, carb is better (But with precise timing and better throttle response, I guess FI can perform better) Else I choose FI over carb

                          EDIT: I got a small doubt. Why those FFE exhausts costs a bomb when they have nothing inside them??? Saw pics, it was just hollow tube with some glass wool stuffed to absorb sound. Is the cost for shape?? Or they just cheat people??
                          Last edited by siddharthsure; 08-28-2013, 01:21 PM.
                          Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "

                          sigpic

                          Comment


                          • Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

                            Originally posted by siddharthsure View Post
                            Yup!! Will read and yea agree carb can generate more power than FI. Both has its advantage and disadvantages. But FI has improved a lot reducing its disadvantages. If you are only for drag, carb is better (But with precise timing and better throttle response, I guess FI can perform better) Else I choose FI over carb

                            EDIT: I got a small doubt. Why those FFE exhausts costs a bomb when they have nothing inside them??? Saw pics, it was just hollow tube with some glass wool stuffed to absorb sound. Is the cost for shape?? Or they just cheat people??
                            Agreed, Fi has improved a lot however, in this case with this particular bike i have to make do with what i have :P. Next purchase if an when i am bored with this bike will be an FI and mostly will be left out as stock till the hot roding urges start taking over..

                            A good branded FFE costs a lot more because:

                            * Quality of Materials used compared to stock
                            * Workmanship costs and a company charging a premium on the brand name same way like an Armani T - Shirt will cost you 50k + whereas a non branded one with the same quality from the street can be fetched for Rs. 50/-
                            * Stupid import and customs duty which results in making a good 6 lakhs SBK turn to 16 lakhs.. if you know what i am saying!!

                            It is not just a empty hollow tube with some glasswool my friend. there is a lot of science behind the design, bend pipe, exhaust port, flow of gases, backpressure to make it work as good as it can be...

                            If it was so easy all of us would then make an empty pipe and plonk it onto our bikes for more performance right??


                            Cheers,
                            Last edited by shv18; 08-28-2013, 01:33 PM.
                            A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P

                            Comment


                            • Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

                              Tampering with Modern Fi systems with many sensors and different operating parameters is very difficult, time consuming, and mostly will lead to early demise of the engine...
                              Only the designer of the engine knows all of the operating parameters, and do what is best for the engine's life...So in my reserved opinion, if you want more power than the engine you have, sell it and buy a more potent one....
                              This way you can be sure of refinement, and reliability...
                              Just my thought.
                              When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                              Comment


                              • Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

                                Originally posted by shv18 View Post
                                Agreed, Fi has improved a lot however, in this case with this particular bike i have to make do with what i have :P. Next purchase if an when i am bored with this bike will be an FI and mostly will be left out as stock till the hot roding urges start taking over..

                                A good branded FFE costs a lot more because:

                                * Quality of Materials used compared to stock
                                * Workmanship costs and a company charging a premium on the brand name same way like an Armani T - Shirt will cost you 50k + whereas a non branded one with the same quality from the street can be fetched for Rs. 50/-
                                * Stupid import and customs duty which results in making a good 6 lakhs SBK turn to 16 lakhs.. if you know what i am saying!!

                                It is not just a empty hollow tube with some glasswool my friend. there is a lot of science behind the design, bend pipe, exhaust port, flow of gases, backpressure to make it work as good as it can be...

                                If it was so easy all of us would then make an empty pipe and plonk it onto our bikes for more performance right??


                                Cheers,
                                Woo thanks!!! So the shape matters right?? Shape of bend pipe and everything. And yea I have seen many local guys plonking in empty pipe made by rolling a sheet of metal( made locally). It sounds and looks ugly. That made me ask that. I thought a gud craftsman can make a FFE How stupid I am
                                Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "

                                sigpic

                                Comment

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