Re: Durshet, Maharashtra ride test report, 28th September 2013

Good to see the trip report, and bike's performance....Regarding the Air Filter, try to get a Pleated Paper filter which is superior in filtering....

the oil consumption seems to have reduced ...did you add any additives for this, or use some superior oil with additives ? Still the quantum is not small or comforting to know...your bore seems to be wearing faster, may be because it no longer has the case/surface hardening done by OE manufacturer..
Good luck..

Switch replacement and Air filter clean up report log, 1st October 2013

Hi All,

i went to the SVC and quickly got the front brake light switch replaced. Just for the benefit of the Noobs i am adding some pics for reference:







Pic 1, 2 & 3 : Front brake light switch.


The actual cost of the assembly is INR 95/-. And i am thoroughly impressed with quality control on Yamaha's end. There are still no body panel noise or any other failures i have witnessed so far.

Anyways, got the air filter cleaned with compressed air, cleaner and then applied engine oil and let it dry for a bit. While the air filter was getting blown with compressed air, i noticed truck loads of dirt coming out from the filter.





Pic 4 & 5: Simota stock replacement air filter after being cleaned and oiled.

After that, we installed it and wallah!! the performance was back on!! So as per my experience, the main culprit was the clogged air filter. Now my FZ - X willingly likes to rev very past close to 9,000 rpm without any effort or major inputs from the rider. 2/4th throttle and she would just fly past 70 - 80 kmph in no time. Happy to see the performance back on. I am sure the FE will also return to the earlier nos.

Sir,

I don't put any additives in the engine oil and i am strictly against it. I don't have an explanation behind why the oil consumption has reduced but regardless the current rate of consumption cannot be ignored. We did a thorough inspection of the whole engine to see if there were any oil seal leaks or gasket leaks but so far there seems to be none.

Anyways, will update with more reports soon...

Cheers,

Re: Switch replacement and Air filter clean up report log, 1st October 2013

Yes I do agree that the present oil consumption is high, and not acceptable...coupled with Simota your engine may get worn out earlier than normal...Any Air Filter element which is based on Oiled Cotton like the K&N is not good for the engine ,since it allows a high amount of Dust into the engine...
Here is a useful link which explains it correctly....

Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better : Nissan Articles

Re: Switch replacement and Air filter clean up report log, 1st October 2013

Yes sir agreed,

Hence, the decision to get rid of this filter and opt for a Pipercross foam based air filter. This month, if and when time permits, we will be conducting the long pending Gtech RR Pro Data logger speed runs to confirm the gains in performance over stock, 0 - 100 kmph timings.

If everything goes well, the idea is to test my FZ - X in following configs:

* BS 29 CV Carb, 122.5 main jet, 17.5 pilot jet and needle jet from Bajaj Pulsar 180, 15 - 40T sprocket, Pipercross/Simota Air Filter, Motozone Headwork & cam.

* BS 29 CV Carb, 125 main jet, 17.5 pilot jet and needle jet from Bajaj Pulsar 180, 15 - 40T sprocket, Pipercross/Simota Air Filter, Motozone Headwork & cam.

* TM series VM 26/28 Flatside Carb, 15 - 40T sprocket, Pipercross/Simota Air Filter, Motozone Headwork & cam.

* Just for fun a 32mm Semi Flat carb, Pipercross/Simota Air Filter, Motozone Headwork & cam.

The objective of the test is to show the increase or reduction in acceleration timings by using various formats of carbs. Noobs please bear in mind It is not to show the "streetability factor" but merely to see how much more power can be generated from the existing set up just by switching carbs and purely for drag runs.


Cheers,

Re: Switch replacement and Air filter clean up report log, 1st October 2013

If you are going to experiment with a Flat slide Carb., better take a picture of Mr.Vikram of Motozone.....before and after ..

Re: Switch replacement and Air filter clean up report log, 1st October 2013

LOL!!

sir the carb test is only limited till the drag runs and that's about it! I am happy with the current config..

Cheers,

Piston & Cylinder warping test

Hi All,

i know we all have been discussing about the "Tooner kits" being faulty and flawed for a while now. But i am surprised to see people still opting to go for the seller's kits regardless of the high failure rates and warnings. By now we all are aware that a bigger sleeve is being inserted and then bored out to the specifications on a 182cc kit. Most of the times the boring of the cylinder has not been done properly and as a result there are minute warping present inside the cylinder which aides to the early demise/seizure of the kits. So, for the benefit of the community, i will try and provide a basic guide about how to check if the cylinder has been bored properly or is warped in nature. @psr ji: please do correct me if i am missing out on any of the steps.

First Noobs and riders please understand what is TDC, BDC and the Cylinder walls for the experiment mentioned. For this experiment just for demonstration purpose, i am using my stock block and stock piston. Forgive me for my horrible photoshopping skills but i hope it serves the purpose.




And a simple animation showing how a 4 stroke motor functions:




First things first. Basic maths: A cylinder one of the most basic curvilinear geometric shapes, the surface formed by the points at a fixed distance from a given line segment, the axis of the cylinder.

So theoretically, the shape of the cylinder remains constant right from the BDC to TDC. In a stock block, this consistency is present to ensure that the piston moves freely yet the rings provide adequate pressure to ensure a sealed tight environment for the 4 stroke engine to perform effectively without allowing engine oil to leak in or lose compression in the process. With Tooner's kits, this is not the case! The quality is sub - standard and i hope i have shared enough data to prove my point already on the this thread.

So folks, lets start with the experiement:


STEP 1: First using new engine oil, apply it evenly on the surface of the cylinder and on the side of the piston. Then carefully insert the piston (with the piston rings installed on it and oiled properly) into the cylinder




STEP 2: Once, you are absolutely sure that the piston has been installed correctly, slowly push the piston to the center of the block cylinder. try and feel if you meet any stiff resistance while pushing the piston inside. If the piston gets stuck somewhere in the middle and refuses to budge no matter how much pressure you apply then my friend you have just witnessed the cylinder is warped.



STEP 3: Now gently push the piston all the way to the TDC position. See if you notice any stiff resistance against it. If the piston get's stuck somewhere while pushing it to the top then the cylinder is warped.



If you notice the arrow marking on the STEP 1 image, once you are done doing the above steps gently turn the piston sideways while it is installed inside the cylinder and then repeat the whole process again. If the piston gets stuck anywhere TDC, BDC or in the center then gentlemen you have just bought a dud piece!!

Now as per my experience with the Tooner's kits, you can repeat the same test without installing the piston rings and repeat all the steps. I am pretty sure, 9 out of 10 kits will have the warping issue and piston getting stuck at places predominantly visible!

For all those people who have ignored the warnings and still gone ahead, purchased the RC kits and are yet to install it to your respective bikes, make sure you follow the above mentioned test. Will save a you a lot of $s later.


Cheers,

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

^^^ This is a very good thing that you have put up, so that buyers can check their block before they install it, thus saving them time, energy, breakdowns and maybe even worse!!

Thanks for sharing

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

[MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION] Do you wanna add anything about the tooners FFE?

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

Shv18...A good post on a quick way to check for Piston clearance, .......no proper ,piston and matching cylinder boring will ever get into a faulty clearance wherein the Piston becomes tight inside the bore...Most Piston clearance is pre-mentioned for the particular piston,depending on it's material and temperature expansion coefficient....
every manufacturer mentions a maximum oversize to which the bore can be expanded, depending on the design parameters...invariably it is fourth oversize or 1mm extra to stock Piston dia...Of course there are special bores which cannot be bored at all since they have very hard coating done straight on to the Aluminum bore , like Diasil, in which case the cylinder aluminum is overbored to accept a steel sleeve....this ofcourse has it's negatives......
Then there is the question of Bore trueness..ie., if the bore is an absolute Cylinder, or is Oval in shape....
Boring of a cylinder needs exceptionally good machines with very close tolerances....

All said, you have given the quick check list ,and the method for checking the bored out kits....

Here is a You tube video which will be interesting to learn from....

How to measure a cylinder.wmv - YouTube

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

This is the best thread ever I came across. I don't know how I missed this before, I caught with it yesterday night & believe me, today I took a whole day off from my work just to go through each & every page of this thread right from the beginning (my eyes are paining as i type this)

Hats off for the effort [MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION], this thread has been of immense knowledge. I am highly impressed with your factual write up, you've documented your experience very well, its going to be an eye opener to all, who are planning for hot rodding their rides in future.

Keep up the great work. Looking forward for your review on Motozone BB once you get it.

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

You took a day off just to read the whole thread? :O Is this called Automobile addict.. hehe

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

I guess there is a solution from the supplier even if you have a bent sleeve, as our member faced with his P230cc bore...though it didn't work

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

Same here.. Though I have not taken day off from work but have gone through the whole thread & it truly is an eye opener.. It clearly demonstrates what happen when you do not do your homework before/after shopping and blindly implement it.. and truly in debt to [MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION] for painstakingly pointing this out to the masses

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

So basically this person spent his money, lost his peace and opened up a (hopefully) good bike for a 10cc increase???

I have a question. Actually it has been in my mind for some time now. Before all this hoopla over the race tuner and other 4stroke tuning houses began, I have come across only one viable big bore mod. That is the rxc165 mod in which a rd piston is installed in a rx block, connecting rod and head dome are modified to accept the piston.

My question is when you install these big bore kits, no changes are done to the crank. So the stroke of the engine remains the same. So higher displacement is achieved through a larger diameter bore. If the bore dia increases, how come the head dome is not modified to accept the increased piston top area? Wouldnt that lead to improper compression and flame propogation?

Sent from my GT-I9001 using xBhp Connect mobile app