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**Jon Niranjan Paul** · 10-21-2015, 01:53 AM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by psr View Post

As for the oily smell it is ok...IF there is no smoke from Exhaust. Check the Exhaust tip for oil sticky deposit. If it is there, then check for smoke in Exhaust either at Cold Start or under regular running. Check oil consumption every 500 Kms .
Regarding missing fairing bushings and proper screws for fixing the fairing, You can try the SVC or if you have samples of each, hunt for it at Automobile shops and get it.
Good Luck..

Thank you sir, there isnt any oily/sticky residue in the exhaust, however i did find mild deposits of soot. Finding bolts for the fairing is going to be my main focus for the next couple of weeks. Update on the oil, it's still holding good(minimal colour change), clocked 275kms as of today, and the engine is as smooth as ever.

I have a doubt regarding real time application of the HDEO, since the life of the oil is somewhat shorter that that of an FS oil (Shell FS Ultra), wouldnt constant changes bring the cost to break even between the HDEO and the FS oil? Assuming the life of the HDEO is 2000kms, and the FS is a bit over 4000kms, I'd still be spending the same amount at the end of 4000kms. And would it be advisable to use HDEO's during road trips, spanning over 2K kms?

**psr** · 10-21-2015, 10:20 AM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by Jon Niranjan Paul View Post

Thank you sir, ...................................
I have a doubt regarding real time application of the HDEO, since the life of the oil is somewhat shorter that that of an FS oil (Shell FS Ultra), wouldnt constant changes bring the cost to break even between the HDEO and the FS oil? Assuming the life of the HDEO is 2000kms, and the FS is a bit over 4000kms, I'd still be spending the same amount at the end of 4000kms. And would it be advisable to use HDEO's during road trips, spanning over 2K kms?

A slight DRY SOOT at exhaust tip is acceptable, since cold starts will actually run a bit rich and rich running produces black soot.
HDEO oil usage in CBR is first of all an Experiment. It was done in SHV18's engine to clean the inner parts of engine , and to give protection through ZDDP as the cleaning gets done.. Shell Ultra FS is approx.,800/- per liter while the R4 is 312/- per liter...so R4 change 2 times for one Ultra FS change is still less .SHV18 is doing the experiment as to how long the R4 lasts in CBR250....we will wait for his results and observations ..
Good luck.

**shv18** · 10-21-2015, 07:47 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by ishan2290 View Post

Hello shv18, I am planning to buy a used cbr250r. Though I have posted this message in CBR250R thresd but still re-posting it here just to get your openion on this. I have found 4 SBR's in my budget, details below. Please share your view on this ASAP.

1) A Red-Silver CBR (STANDARD)
2012 model, 17,000 kms done, haven't seen this bike in person but by photos, tyres will be needed to change, all papers clear-Asking price:85,000 INR

2) A Red-Silver CBR (STANDARD)
December 2011 model. 6,500 kms done, personally seen and ridden the bike,scratchless bike except a single scratch on silencer guard because of fall while standing, everything else is good, all papers clear-Asking Price:1,00,000 INR

3) A Black CBR (STANDARD)
2012 model, 6,700 kms done, personally inspected and ridden, only chain and sprockets are rusted from out side, everything else is in good condition including tyres, completely scratchless, good service history, he doesn't have original RC yet, but i think can manage to get it by appointing agent, on one of the insurance papers and on some other papers (don't remember the name of those papers) there is mentioned ABS model but it is non ABS model-Asking price:1,10,000 INR

4) A Red-Silver CBR (ABS)
November 2011 model, 20,000kms done. personally inspected and ridden only for some meters in his flat premises, bike is scratchless but it has some scratches on silencer guard but no where else like on handle bar or fairing so there are no marks of bike crash, owner told it happened in during parking the bike at home and office. front tyre is contiGo which is completely bald and have to replace it. Rear tyre is i think like some button tyre, dont remember the brand, but if I am replacing the front, will definately replace the whole set, i am thinking of going with Michalin (other suggestions are welcomed). chain and everything is in good condition,, there is some color pilled off on handlebar clip-ons and a bit rusting due to aging, some fins on radiator guard is bent, RVM screws are badly rusted, as per the owner he has done one service 2 weeks ago, everything else is good/ok. all documentation is clear, insurance expiring in this month end.-Asking Price:1,00,000 but ready to give the bike for 97,000 INR

NOW, i am not able to make up my mind for which bike to go, I will have to complete all documentation process and bike maintenance in max 2 weeks as i have a ride planned to gujarat, my home, in diwali. At present i am riding Apache 180 ABS model and know and appriciate the importance of ABS, had many close encounters on road and was saved by ABS. By this msg, i just wanted to know your views, yes I am short of money but can manage upto 1 Lakh and don't want to compromise for some bucks for which i regrate in future as this will be my long term bike. Still asking you this just for the peace of my mind.

Please try to reply ASAP. Also if anyone can guide me in the process of bike transfer and cost for the same, both if done individually and hiring an agent, it will be very helpful for me to plan my finances.

Thank You n advance.

Hi i believe [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir has already answered most of your questions. If i were you, i would choose the 1st model (Red NON-ABS model) as from my perspective the kms look genuine and has least amount of maintenance work to be carried out. You may connect with the Pune CBR group and ask for Mr. Ratnakar bhalerao sir. He is a very humble person who is helpful by nature and should be able to guide you to make your purchase decision easy. For more info you may connect with senior rider @gopakumar s pillai

The other option i would look at would be the 4th one with the ABS option purely because of the fact that Nissin 3 pot calliper has a far more superior brake bite and feel than the NON-ABS one... personally to me the ABS function is not something i am looking at but the progressive braking is really good on this model: well worth the extra amount you would pay when knowing the fact that this vehicle can easily do 120+ kmph. May be you can haggle a bit more and get a better price for either of them as personally i feel the asking price for both is on the higher side. All the best with your purchase decision.

Originally posted by Jon Niranjan Paul View Post

@shv18 and @psr sir, you guys are on a completely different league. Well, to come to the point, i picked up a used CBR 250 in November 2014 (STD, 2011 model) and have restored her back to her glory days. She was utterly neglected, but still had a good heart with only 8650 clicks on the odo. She's clocking 28K clicks now

. I've recently started the HDEO (Shell Rimula R4) treatment, it's still too early as I've only clocked 200 kms on the new oil. Observations are - smooth acceleration with no vibes creeping in at that annoying 4.5K RPM, the engine seems to have become more silent now and i'm also noticing a funny smell from the exhaust. It smells just like the oil, any indications on this?

Will be carrying out the earth wire mod, just to check and see for my own personal satisfaction if there is an improvement on the performance side. Now, i tried opening up the side panel, and forgive me if this sounds like a really stupid question, but to access the bolt attaching the side panel to the frame, must one remove the entire tail assembly?

I opened up the bike on saturday, and found that a lot of bolts on the fairing and headlight assembly have been mismatched, and a few bolts are not even part of the bike (read no hex heads, philips head, wrong length and an add on of washers). I inquired at the SVC if the stock bolt kits, but they said no. Any pointers on this? And the rubber bushes on the clamps of the fairing are missing too, resulting in vibes. Need to get this replaced ASAP too.

I guess the SVC guys at some point of time managed to misplace it and did the patch work by installing whatever bolts they could get hold of. Allen bolts are resilient against panel vibrations and harmonics and don't get unscrewed by themselves. It is indeed going to be a pain but allen bolts should be available at an aftermarket seller or from the Honda SVC if they are smart enough the place an order for the same.

Happy that Rimula R4 is working out for you.

Cheers,

**shv18** · 10-27-2015, 09:06 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Hi all,

sorry for not being able to keep the thread updated as work has consumed most of my time and my riding has been limited except a day or two where i managed to run away from my place of stay and do short highway runs. I am very happy with my CBR 250Rs performance though now the coneset being a goner and me not being able to find time to get the work done is making riding not a pleasurable experience especially in the town premises. The steering feels very heavy and non responsive. Whenever it is possible i will do the needful and install the All Balls Tapered Roller bearings and share my experience over here. Anyways, time for the update.

ROAD TO RECOVERY (PART 7)

My CBR covered around 1557 kms with the 2nd round of HDEO oil: Shell Rimula R4. Even though through the inspection window the engine oil looked the same Dark amber colour, my the engine vibes had increased. From 4,000 - 5,000 rpm the vibrations were felt on the right handlbar and then from 6,000 rpm onwards the whole vehicle was vibrating. The gear upshifts were absolutely butter smooth but the down shifts were becoming very notchy and at times i did experience gear slipping from 1st/ 2nd to neutral. Initially i suspected the clutch setting not being done right but after inspection, it was found to be within the specs.

All the signs given out by my CBR were making it clear that the oil was slowly losing its properties so it was decided to go for an oil change.

Pic 1: Very dark amber colour Shell Rimula R4 engine oil

So an appointment was taken with the SVC and the current oil was drained in the oil pan. As the image below will suggest, visually the oil was still in good shape and there was no burning smell emitting from it unlike what was observed during the first oil change with Shell Advanced ultra FS oil on my bike. However, the engine becoming vibey was something i was not happy with hence, the decision for an oil change.

Pic 2 & 3: Rimula R4 being drained from my CBR 250R. Note the colour of the oil and the way it flowed from the drain hole of the engine. When inspected by taking it in between the fingers it was still sticky and not runny.

We then went ahead and opened up the engine oil filter cap for inspection of the Yamaha FZ/Byson oil filter in order to see if the filter was dirty and clogged with black muck as it was observed during the last early drain. Upon dismantling the cap and taking out the oil filter, i am happy to report that the filter was relatively clean with very less amount of particulate deposition and the yellowish pleats were still visible.

Pic 4: Note due to phone camera quality the filter colour looks more on the black side. However, the yellow pleats were visible and more prominent.

I believe we may consider this as one of the indications that the engine is relatively free of most of the primary layer of gum and varnish depositions that had build up during the last 20,000 kms of neglect by the previous owner. I am very happy to report that i haven't witnessed any shim noise or cam chain noise emanating from the engine bay yet which i believe shows that this CBR's engine is still in good shape and is responding well to the HDEO engine oil treatment we have been giving it. I would also like to share a pic i managed to take of the engine casing internal surface through the oil filling area. From the pic i believe it shows a slight yellowish brown kinda layer on the internal surface of the clutch side cover. I completely forgot to mention this earlier that the last time i had checked the same surface was a lot more darker.

Pic 5: Note the internal surface of the clutch side engine cover. Very mild yellowish deposits inside.

So to me it seems that Shell Rimula R4 HDEO oil with its high detergents does what has been advertised. It has been successfully stripping off layers of gum and varnish that had got deposited earlier. Anways, once the drain bolt was screwed back in with a fresh crush washer and a new Yamaha FZ/Byson engine oil filter was installed, we then went about pouring in a fresh batch of Shell Rimula R4 engine oil in my CBRs engine.

Pic 6, 7 & 8: Fresh batch of Shell Rimula R4 HDEO oil with CI4 PLUS grading.

The mechanic using a clean measuring jar, initially took out 500ml of measured HDEO oil from the 1 ltr pack and then pour it inside. After that he than emptied the other 1 ltr bottle into the engine. After all the inspections were done we then fired up the engine and then let the engine idle for about 2 mins to see if there are any notable leakages from anywhere. After everything was found to be ok i then paid up the SVC guys and went on with a short 50 kms ride on my CBR.

Pic 9 & 10: 1 ltr Shell Rimula R4 being poured into the engine. Note the colour of the fresh oil in the inspection window.

OBSERVATIONS:

* Engine was noticeably smoother
* The earlier vibrations @4,000 rpm and then @6,000 rpm slowly became milder and by the end of the ride were subdued by almost 80%.
* Gear shifts both up shift and down shift was back being butter smooth.
* False gear trouble vanished completely
* Exhaust note was different and engine noise during idling becamse muted and "typical Honda" purring was back in action

Dear readers. please bear in mind: i have covered 835 + 1557 = 2392 kms with Shell Rimula R4 HDEO oil and so far have not witnessed anything bad or odd with my vehicle. The Yamaha FZ/Byson filter is doing its job and my CBR hasn't been complaining at all. So as of today i have nothing but praises for this oil. But please remember, it is still an ongoing experiment. Let me clock some more kms and observe how the HDEO oil performs once the gunk and varnish is completely stripped off from the engine internals and whether any adverse effects are witnessed with this particular engine. Till then watch out for more..

Cheers,

**sanjaysangar1990** · 10-27-2015, 09:48 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

My questions :

How can so much gunk or call it whatever you want, be deposited in the bike.

It has been said or being assumed that the previous owner never changed oil, all he did was topped up. So how the engine lasted for so called 19k kms without oil change. We all know honda's reliability but 19k.kms without oil change, seems a bit hard to digest.

Now the oil changing color, does it mean all the time you are pouring in oil and it becoming black is always related to gunk and etc ? Oil will change its color after few 100 kms and will get.darker with time. Does that mean all.bike has some gunk deposited in them even after regular service and maintenance.

I belive the shell hdeo oil treatment with the bike is utter waste although its in experimentation phase, but it is not designed for the bike so the vibes will sneak in sooner or later.

The oil getting black during 2 oil changes, is gunk the only sole reason for this or something else it is ? Also, only shell hdeo oil is capable.of.removing gunk deposits, can't any other.oil do the.job like the shell FS.

PS: I have never used shell hdeo and nor do I.intend to use it. But each and every time the gunk deposit.is hold responsible is something I want an answer for.

Cheers,
Sanjay

**shv18** · 10-28-2015, 03:51 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by sanjaysangar1990 View Post

My questions :

How can so much gunk or call it whatever you want, be deposited in the bike.

It has been said or being assumed that the previous owner never changed oil, all he did was topped up. So how the engine lasted for so called 19k kms without oil change. We all know honda's reliability but 19k.kms without oil change, seems a bit hard to digest.

ANS : Regarding robustness and reliability of a Honda engine refer to post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...ml#post1133240 and this : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...ml#post1135229 . The vehicle in question is still running and has recently crossed 62,000 kms. Do refer to this interesting post on international forum (ADV rider) reporting an incident with a Honda CRF 230: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=909696

you may also refer to this video:

When you compare the torture test these vehicles have led (one untintentional due to pure ignorance, one due to unfortunate bad luck with a second hand bike and the other one intentionally done by the presenter Charlie Boorman

), 19k kms on topped up oil is nothing for my CBR 250R. To put it in simple words for sheer reliability and engineering poweress: "a Honda is a Honda"...

Now the oil changing color, does it mean all the time you are pouring in oil and it becoming black is always related to gunk and etc ? Oil will change its color after few 100 kms and will get.darker with time. Does that mean all.bike has some gunk deposited in them even after regular service and maintenance.

ANS: refer to post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1170005 and http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1177181 and http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...ml#post1133240. Note the varnish and gum deposition in the HH CBZ Extreme engine in the last 44,000 kms. For comparo refer to post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...tml#post939970 Do check the condition of the clutch side internals of a well maintained Yamaha FZ with periodic engine oil changes and at that point of time had completed 26,000 kms.

I belive the shell hdeo oil treatment with the bike is utter waste although its in experimentation phase, but it is not designed for the bike so the vibes will sneak in sooner or later.

ANS: Hence, the term "experimentation" is being used. At no point of time this thread has advocated the use of Shell Rimula R4 to any of the readers. No one has asked you or forced you to use Rimula in your respective vehicle, you may agree or disagree with the method used here which is purely your call as an owner of your own personal vehicle. The idea here is to share what has been been the net result. The proof is in the pudding hence, being one of a kind experiment for this class of motorcycle as i progress clocking more kms, the results will speak for itself: whether this whole experiment is a success or a failure. You may also refer to engine oil thread where Rimula R4 has been successfully running in almost any 4 stroke motorcycle and scooters and that too in India.

The oil getting black during 2 oil changes, is gunk the only sole reason for this or something else it is ? Also, only shell hdeo oil is capable.of.removing gunk deposits, can't any other.oil do the.job like the shell FS.

ANS: Refer to post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1172811 then http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1152726 and http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1150877

PS: I have never used shell hdeo and nor do I.intend to use it. But each and every time the gunk deposit.is hold responsible is something I want an answer for.

ANS: refer to post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1170005 and http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1177181

Cheers,
Sanjay

Hope this answers your queries.

**shv18** · 11-09-2015, 05:26 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Hi All,

been a really busy week so have not been able to keep this thread updated. Regardless, would like to wish all the dear readers a very happy diwali in advance.

QUICK UPDATE:

So with a very hectic work week the no. of kms clocked have been kept to a minimal. Finally i couldn't take it anymore and after being pestered by fellow riding buddies, i decided to let it slip, put on my riding gear and went about riding my CBR with no particular destination in mind. I must apologise that i don't have any supporting pics for the trip done. As of now my CBR has done 674.8 kms with the new Rimula R4 engine oil and the engine vibrations have gone down to a minimum. The engine oil colour has slowly turned very mild amber but still dark yellowish. This time i intend to push this oil a bit farther and see how long does it last till the time the gear shifting starts becoming hard. Shall keep you all updated as i clock more kms.

The Coneset as mentioned is a complete goner and primarily due to lack of time i am not able to carry out and necessary replacement of the same with the recently procured tapered roller bearings. Hopefully, once the schedule is free, i would be in a position to do the needful and install the bearings quickly and report my observations on this thread.

BREMBO - HH SINTERED PADS for HONDA CBR 250R (ABS):

I am very happy to see that slowly but steadily things are coming back to normal. The engine is behaving normally, no weird sounds emanting from the engine bay: no shim or any unwanted engine sound nor any oil consumption. The vibrations are in check and the HDEO oil is still an experiment in progress. But as an OCMD motorcyclist, one is never content with something being constant. The need to personalise or customise one's motorcycle: be it draping up your beloved with stickers and vinyl wrapping or adding on custom parts us all motorcyclists always one thing which makes our respective possessions truely unique and in a way is a form of representation of us.

For my baby CBR 250R as a part of step by step performance upgrades and a bit of farkle (to be sprinkled on later

) the tapered roller bearings from all balls racing was the first thing that i got hold of. Sadly, i have not been able to get it installed yet. However, the itch to get the next upgrade was already bugging me so, a quick call was made to Mr. Vikram from Motozone, Mumbai/Pune and he suggested me to do give HH - Sintered brake pads a try for my CBR.

Pic 1: Brembo HH Sintered brake pads for Honda CBR 250R(ABS).

For those readers who are not well versed with the difference between different rubbing compounds for brakes a bit of brushing up a bit of basics with the links below should help:

* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_pad

* What is sintering - EBC Brakes

* Motorcycle Brake Pads: Sintered Vs Organic - Dennis Kirk Powersports Blog

As mentioned earlier, i already had a go on a Honda CBR 250R with Galfer HH sintered brake pads (owned by @gopakumar s pillai) doing the duty and the braking was simply phenomenal. All one had to do was simply give a light dab with a single finger and brake bite was very progressive and strong. So the itch to get hold of something better that stock needed to be quenched. And who else would be better than the king of braking systems Brembo? So the order was placed and the brake pads arrived at my door step quickly.

Pic 2,3 & 4: Brembo HH sintered brake pads.

One may question: do i really need sintered brake pads for my respective CBR?? Is it worth the money? Well to be honest i have covered around 4,000 kms with the OEM brake pads on my ABS version and at no point of time i felt the braking was lacking: other way round, the feedback is pretty good which, for most of the riders will be good enough. However, i had already tasted blood

riding [MENTION=49216]gopakumar s pillai[/MENTION] 's CBR and there is no way on earth i can forget the amount of confidence it gave the rider especially when doing high speed runs on a highway. Sintered pads definitely have an edge over stock pads and also perform better in slush and wet conditions which is a very common thing in the place i am currently residing in. Though there is a claim that the life of sintered pads is twice that of OEM ones: honestly, i cannot comment on it until i personally test it out and see the result. I would request senior riders to do share their perspective about Braking and technology associated with braking compounds to keep things interesting on this thread.

For those who are interested to learn a bit more, do have a look at this video:

As of now, i intend to clock atleast 4,000 kms more with stock pads so that any little scoring marks left in the rotors due to usage of run down pads by the previous owner are completely chamfered off by the OEm ones. I shall then do the needful and install the Brembos and report my observations here. Till then watch out for more on this space.

Cheers,

**sman999** · 11-09-2015, 06:16 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

[MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION] I own a non ABS version and I'm always jealous abt the ABS version. I feel that my brakes have deteriorated recently and the rear brake is not even effective as 50% as it was earlier. The master cylinder is fine my mechanic told me. He says the disk plate has to be changed as there are minute groves that can be felt with ur fingers.

Would these brake pads make any difference/solve the problem to an extent?
How much do they cost?
What about the availability in chennai, any idea?

**theironhorse99** · 11-09-2015, 07:40 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by sman999 View Post

@shv18 I own a non ABS version and I'm always jealous abt the ABS version. I feel that my brakes have deteriorated recently and the rear brake is not even effective as 50% as it was earlier. The master cylinder is fine my mechanic told me. He says the disk plate has to be changed as there are minute groves that can be felt with ur fingers.

Would these brake pads make any difference/solve the problem to an extent?
How much do they cost?
What about the availability in chennai, any idea?

how many km have you done with the current disc plates ?
how often did you change the brake fluid ?
for NON-ABS the pads are diffrent.

**sman999** · 11-09-2015, 08:17 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

how many km have you done with the current disc plates ?
how often did you change the brake fluid ?
for NON-ABS the pads are diffrent.

I haven't changed them yet. The bike has done 60k.

Brake fluids mostly changed during a new set of pads. I use dot 4 brake oil.

I know that the pads for non-ABS are different. Aren't these pads available for non-ABS version?

**theironhorse99** · 11-09-2015, 08:42 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by sman999 View Post

I haven't changed them yet. The bike has done 60k.

Brake fluids mostly changed during a new set of pads. I use dot 4 brake oil.

I know that the pads for non-ABS are different. Aren't these pads available for non-ABS version?

International version of NON-ABS cbr also uses NISSIN calliper unlike our BYBRE hence for ABS the worldwide standard is same but finding the right one for
NON-ABS indian model is painful.

60k is decent life out of first set of plates. i believe it can be changed now.

**sman999** · 11-09-2015, 09:27 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by theironhorse99 View Post

International version of NON-ABS cbr also uses NISSIN calliper unlike our BYBRE hence for ABS the worldwide standard is same but finding the right one for
NON-ABS indian model is painful.

60k is decent life out of first set of plates. i believe it can be changed now.

Ohk. Thanks for the input. Will consider changing it then. I was tempted to switch to these brake pads when i read. My bad!

**vjxm** · 11-09-2015, 10:12 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by shv18 View Post

Hi All,

been a really busy week so have not been able to keep this thread updated. Regardless, would like to wish all the dear readers a very happy diwali in advance.

QUICK UPDATE:
The Coneset as mentioned is a complete goner and primarily due to lack of time i am not able to carry out and necessary replacement of the same with the recently procured tapered roller bearings. Hopefully, once the schedule is free, i would be in a position to do the needful and install the bearings quickly and report my observations on this thread.

From where u got tappered roller bearing for handle conset.how much u pay for these. What exactly size of these bearings. Can u post some pics of packing.
Me too looking for tapper bearing for my r15 v1.but not available here .

**shv18** · 11-09-2015, 11:17 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by sman999 View Post

@shv18 I own a non ABS version and I'm always jealous abt the ABS version. I feel that my brakes have deteriorated recently and the rear brake is not even effective as 50% as it was earlier. The master cylinder is fine my mechanic told me. He says the disk plate has to be changed as there are minute groves that can be felt with ur fingers.

Would these brake pads make any difference/solve the problem to an extent?
How much do they cost?
What about the availability in chennai, any idea?

Before going ahead with the advice of the mechanic of changing the brake disc rotors, i would request you to first kindly refer to these posts:

1) http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1150877
2) http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1154333

As you may have noticed your query has already been covered on this thread. Any good Honda SVC will have a micrometer which will allow you to see whether the wear indication is within the acceptable limit or do you need to get the rotors replaced as per the service manual. The life of rotors and brake pads greatly depend on the way the motorcyclist/rider uses them. As per the excerpt from the service manual, the brake fluid replacement interval is @every 12,800 kms approx. If you refer to this post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1159554 the colour of the brake fluid will give you an idea about the condition it is in your respective vehicle. Spongy or sudden non existence of braking may be associated with air in the brake lines or high amount of water content, brake fluid being hygroscopic (water absorbing) in nature.

I would not like to advocate any product over here as this thread is purely about sharing my experiences and having interactive discussion with readers for knowledge sharing. However, to answer your question YES!! the HH sintered brake pads will definitely have an edge over the stock OEM pads in terms of brake bite and progressive feeling during application. That being said, excessive usage of braking with HH sintered brake pads may lead to rapid eating up of the rotors as the video link in the earlier post will suggest. With better braking now in hand thanks to the HH pads, the way you now would apply braking will also change as the required rider input for getting the same brake bite feel will become much lesser on the lever in comparison to the OEM ones. HH sintered pads are available for both ABS and NON ABS version. But bear in mind, for me it is purely a performance upgrade not exactly a must have for everyone. If you feel you want better brake bite and feel and have the moolah for the same then yes HH sintered brake pads is the way to go forward.

Regarding availability and pricing details for the same you may connect with the seller with your own discretion and better judgement: https://www.facebook.com/motozoneperformance/

Originally posted by vjxm View Post

From where u got tappered roller bearing for handle conset.how much u pay for these. What exactly size of these bearings. Can u post some pics of packing.
Me too looking for tapper bearing for my r15 v1.but not available here .

Kindly visit the link above for the same.

Cheers,

**sman999** · 11-09-2015, 11:28 PM

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Originally posted by shv18 View Post

Before going ahead with the advice of the mechanic of changing the brake disc rotors, i would request you to first kindly refer to these posts:

1) http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1150877
2) http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1154333

As you may have noticed your query has already been covered on this thread. Any good Honda SVC will have a micrometer which will allow you to see whether the wear indication is within the acceptable limit or do you need to get the rotors replaced as per the service manual. The life of rotors and brake pads greatly depend on the way the motorcyclist/rider uses them. As per the excerpt from the service manual, the brake fluid replacement interval is @every 12,800 kms approx. If you refer to this post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1159554 the colour of the brake fluid will give you an idea about the condition it is in your respective vehicle. Spongy or sudden non existence of braking may be associated with air in the brake lines or high amount of water content, brake fluid being hygroscopic (water absorbing) in nature.

I would not like to advocate any product over here as this thread is purely about sharing my experiences and having interactive discussion with readers for knowledge sharing. However, to answer your question YES!! the HH sintered brake pads will definitely have an edge over the stock OEM pads in terms of brake bite and progressive feeling during application. That being said, excessive usage of braking with HH sintered brake pads may lead to rapid eating up of the rotors as the video link in the earlier post will suggest. With better braking now in hand thanks to the HH pads, the way you now would apply braking will also change as the required rider input for getting the same brake bite feel will become much lesser on the lever in comparison to the OEM ones. HH sintered pads are available for both ABS and NON ABS version. But bear in mind, for me it is purely a performance upgrade not exactly a must have for everyone. If you feel you want better brake bite and feel and have the moolah for the same then yes HH sintered brake pads is the way to go forward.

Regarding availability and pricing details for the same you may connect with the seller with your own discretion and better judgement: https://www.facebook.com/motozoneperformance/

Kindly visit the link above for the same.

Cheers,

Thanks for the detailed reply [MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION]. The brake oil has been recently drained and changed when both the pads were changed. Dot 4. So no issues and i know exactly what you mean by sponginess due to air lock/water content. There is no proper bite at all. My mechanic might be right about the plates. But i never trust the Honda SVC guys here in my place as they dont have any basic knowledge about these kinda things. But i'll take your advice , will try to find a proper SVC for an checkup as they would cost me almost 3000 for both the plates. And i definitely want better brake pads as i'm an aggressive rider. So let me try those if i get a chance to grab them. Did a bit of research after seeing your post. Thanks again!

Cheers,
Maneesh S

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The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

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