Re: H4 Cree update

A well layed out post there, just one question.

Did you adjust your headlight reflector after installing the LED ?


-Zaid [emoji111]

Re: H4 Cree update

If you read my original post about the light, the answer's there.
Yes, the headlight was adjusted, since at the setting I used the Philips Xtreme Vision, this light was throwing too high. I had to turn in anticlockwise till the beam was accurate enough for the highway. Even after that, I had to adjust (fine tune) when on the highway for correct illumination.

Re: From Halogen to LED

Hi Zaid, I live in Thane and I am following this and the other LED thread for a long time. I am tired to search for LED light in our city as it seems shop owners are trying to sell those cheap triangular LED lights and some people don't even know if there is any led lights available in market. So I came across your comment about you got the V16 turbo from the shop in Mumbai and as Mumbai is really close to the place I live, I can easily go to shop and purchase. Can you please quote me the location from where you got your hands on this V16? As it seems the only good alternative to cyclops.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Guys, please stop the OT in this thread. Contact the member by PM or mail for the bulbs as mentioned. This thread is not meant for this purpose.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Hi All,

don't worry the thread is not done yet! I have been extremely busy with ongoing projects so not been able to visit and dedicate time to put down my thoughts into words along with supporting pics. Since, the last update, i have barely managed to cover around 1400 kms and on the contrary to what media has to say: North East India is experiencing heavy showers since February 2016!! So one can imagine that the scope for going out for a nice ride on a bright sunny day is a distant dream as of now. If luck has it, i may again have to visit the beautiful state of Mizoram. However, that is a different story all together...

A lot of developments have been going on related to some simple (and some not so relevant to general audience) mods to be done to my Honda CBR 250R. Right from LED indicators to trying out foam based filter Vs OEM paper element filter (just out of curiosity) and see if there are any indications in my vehicle's performance improvements (seat on pants purely speaking!! ) to good set of technical discussions etc. a lot more is brewing.. just need the free time to pour it!!

Having said that i am happy to announce that the All Balls Racing Tapered Roller Bearings are working exactly what was advertised and learnt in theory.. They do make the front end a lot more stable especially on high speed runs and on potholed infested roads. Still, more tests are warranted to see if they do last longer than the OEM steering ball bearings. The "Earth Wire Mod" has been one of the greatest discoveries ever many thanks to senior rider @psr sir! It has been near about 6,000+ kms since i had last witnessed the engine shutting off randomly for no reason. The vehicle starts at a push of the button easily regardless of the ambient temperature and has been functioning just fine. On braking front, for those who have been waiting eagerly, the thing is: I am yet to finish off the OEM Brake pads! So i guess Brembo HH sintered ones have to wait it out for a little bit longer...

With the completion of 1 year of ownership of my CBR, i have managed to cover just 8600 kms which is unbelievably low mileage compared to my earlier stint with my FZ where i had done almost double when i was posted in Mumbai. So i guess i will have to find more excuses to saddle up and finally do the long distance rides this vehicle has been designed for. Enough with running around in the cities and town premises!! I really need to let her loose and see how she performs when i twist the throttle and let out a few more ponies: the rpm building up quickly and the speedometer showing triple digits.


Not much time left.. so need to log off for now... do watch out this space for more....


Cheers,

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

looks meaner in matte black

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

QUICK UPDATE

Hi All,

been a while since my last post on this thread. However, as it happens with anybody especially us biker folks: life, work, schedule, endless meetings, field work and responsibilities tend to overtake your passion at times. Since, my last update, i have managed to do around 2,857 kms only. My CBR 250R is now hovering to close to 10,000 kms since it was purchased from the previous owner. I am happy to report that she is purring around just fine. It has been raining like crazy here since the last 4 weeks so riding has been absolutely limited. The overall readings on the odometer gives one a good idea that besides work the weather has also played a major role in keeping this OCMD rider away from doing any long rides. There has been no weird engine noises found to be coming from the engine bay and even now she will happily accelerate all the way to the high 120s - 130s without batting an eyelid. I now have managed to do close to 9,000 kms with the Yamaha FZ/Byson engine oil filter as the primary alternative to stock OEM one on my CBR and so far there have been no issues or any unwanted problems due to the usage of an un-approved engine oil filter on my CBR. So more or less we now have a baseline of close to 10,000 kms: which confirms that using FZ engine oil filter so far has had no effect on the engine of a Honda CBR 250R. However, as i had mentioned earlier i would like to push it to another 10,000 kms and see if there are any unexpected effects with using such a Filter on a high revving motor like this one. If my bike still happily survives this experiment, then i guess it would be safe to state that FZ filter works just fine and at the third of the cost of an OEM one. However, again i would like to emphasize this to everyone not to follow my footsteps as this is only an experiment of an eccentric OCMD rider!!

As expected, the high humidity and exposure to non-stop rains started the well known symptom seen normally across any motorcycle living in such wet condition. Occasionally when i turned on the ignition switch with the key, no power, nothing was displayed on the console. After one or two attempts of cycling the ignition key then things would come back online. Since, i have gone through this before on my beloved FZ, i whipped out the can of Zorrik 88, gave a liberal spray inside the ignition key lockset, waited for about 2 mins and then intentionally cycled the ON & OFF turns with the key a multitude no. of times (say 30-40).





Pic 1 & 2: Zorrik 88 penetrating spray being sprayed inside ignition lockset.

I also took this as an opportunity and sprayed on the other switchgears both for light and ignition side and let them sit idle for about a minute or two and then cycled each switches to ON & OFF for a while and then left it. The difference was apparent in matter of minutes. The ignition key lockset now responded instantly to turning of the key to ON and the console and everything else came online without any fuss. So for anyone facing any such similar problems one of the easiest way to get rid of this annoyance is using Zorrik 88 or WD 40 and spraying the internals liberally. This problem crops up due to oxidation and formation of rust on the terminals which results in lose or no contact due to increase in resistance thus the switches and ignition lockset start acting up erratically to inputs given. This condition is further accelerated if the bike is regularly washed or is in a very humid and wet climate. So using good penetrating fluid removes the rust coating and also forms a protective film on the terminals which in turn allows positive connection and thus, electrical system functioning normally. On a personal note, i prefer WD 40 over Zorrik 88 as per my observation the WD 40 works quicker and gives better result as a penetrating fluid.

Also as expected now inching closer to 10,000 kms some regular wear and tear has taken place since last one year. In one of my 200 kms short weekend rides, i noticed that the brake bite was not that effective. By now i had covered around 8,800 kms on the stock OEM brake pads. So an inspection of the respective rear and front brake pads was on the cards. When the same was done, it was clear that both the rear and front pads are at the end of their life cycle and had a very little friction material left on them.







Pic 3, 4 & 5: Rear and front brake pads wear indication was pretty clear that they had reached at the end of their life cycle. Note the lesser amount of friction material left on the rear and front pads.

As mentioned in the workshop manual for Honda CBR 250R, the easiest way to identify if your brake pads have worn out is to take them out and see if the wear indication markers/ limit grooves have more or less been reached. Based on my experience, looking at both the pads even from external inspection replacement was definitely needed as soon as possible since, braking is a critical safety factor which cannot be ignored under any circumstances.



Pic 6: Workshop manual guide to check on wear indication on the respective front and rear brake pads. It is applicable universally for all disc brake motorcycles. in this case both CBR ABS & NON-ABS version will have more or less similar wear limit grooves. If it has reached that limit then one should change/replace the pads immediately.


Now i am sure a lot of you readers may be wondering why on earth the life of the brake pads and that too on an ABS version CBR in my case has lasted only 8,800 kms. Well there are two primary reasons actually. Firstly, i was trying to perfect the art of pre-loading the suspension before entering a corner and rev-match and downshift gears accordingly to have that perfect entry and exit speed without loading the engine and transmission of my CBR. In short was trying out few tips and tricks from the bible written by Keath Code. The upside is that with rev matching, the downshifts and engine feels much more grateful to the treatment it receives when slowing down and then accelerating accordingly. The downside is that a large part of the load has to taken by the brake pads to cut speed and as a result of this their life reduces significantly. However, as per Keath Code, this technique does save expensive repairs to the transmission box and the engine at a later stage. Brake pads are cheap transmission box and others aren't. So unless you are as crazy as me and instead judiciously use braking while anticipating the road, one can easily extract 13 - 18k kms out of the OEM pads.

Secondly, yours truly is possibly one of the only idiots on this planet who is very happy to lose the OEM pads so quickly because he wanted to desperately start testing out the Brembo HH sintered brake pads which have been lying in the closet for near about 6 months now. As mentioned in an earlier post(Sintered Pads: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1185731) i was completely smitten after riding @gopakumar s pillai sir's bike which had Galfer HH sintered brake pads doing duty, the braking was phenomenal especially on the ghats of Lonavla, Maharashtra when the gentleman graciously allowed me to test ride his steed. By the end of the test ride, I had made up my mind that in the near future if and when i upgrade to a higher CC bike (from my then Yamaha FZ) HH sintered brake pads was definitely one of the first upgrade i was going to route for.



Pic 7: Brembo HH Sintered brake pads for Front & Rear: for Honda CBR 250R ABS version

So when Honda CBR 250R came into my life, this was naturally one of the first upgrades i had budgeted for in my to do/grab list . Now that the OEM pads have more or less given up, i am really excited to try out the HH sintered pads and see what differences are felt between: OEM Vs HH sintered ones. I am hopeful that Brembo being one of the most reputed company in the world for developing A class - braking systems and associated items, these HH sintered pads shouldn't disappoint. However, as we all have learnt 'the proof is in the pudding', so let me get them installed at the earliest and then i shall post my observations on this thread.

As a part of preventive maintenance, I also intend to replace the brake fluid with a fresh bottle of DOT 4 (procedure for the same for an ABS CBR has been explained in the post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...br-250r-7.html). The idea is keep everything new and fresh especially considering the wet weather conditions my bike has to live in since, brake fluid is hygroscopic by nature. I want to negate any chances of failure due to the brake fluid being older than the pads.

One more interesting thing that was observed: whenever i had a well built pillion riding at the back, the rear suspension made a very weird squeaking sound when going over undulations of road and over speed bumps. So i guess i will also have to get the rear swing arm bearings and the Pro-link suspension bearings inspected and greased. Will share the troubleshooting once this vehicle sees the SVC really soon.



Cheers,

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Hey guys, my bike had issues with coolant some days back however i topped up the coolant again and rode for 500kms last week and after that coolant level is intact! Now, i am clocking about 40kms everyday(highway). I am hearing clicking noise from the engine from 3-4k rpm and after that there is nothing. This has started after i filled up fuel last time.

I visited the svc they said run the bike with fresh petrol and check.

As suggested by svc i filled fresh petrol and after that the sound had disappeared today morning but it is back now.
The sound starts after the engine warms up, before that there is no sound. It starts exactly from 3k rpm and goes up to 4k after that there is nothing.
Like when i am riding in 2nd gear and i press clutch to shift to 3rd, at this point when the rpm goes down from 4k, there is "krrr" sound, almost a little rattle from engine. This is also there when rpm rises slowly from 3-4k, but not when i throttle quickly. What might be the issue guys? Need some help!

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R


how many Km done ? can be loose stone/gravel in the fairing. timing chain tensioner comes to my mind but i believe you have a pretty new machine hence not really possible.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

The bike has done 3400 kms buddy. Could also be loose gravel/stone. Could the shims or timing chain tensioner wear out so soon? The sound is only present from 3k-4k rpm, before or after that there is no such sound.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Like TheIronhorse advised check for loose gravel small stones inside fairing and also look out for loose wire harness allowing it to come in touch with body/panels and have sympathetic vibes at particular RPMs.....

When you ask for solutions give pertinent details like How many Kms done age mods done if any etc ., so that a viable solutions can be shared ..

Incomplete data will mislead members and a wrong opinion will be shared.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

I'm sorry sir i will keep that in mind. The bike is just 4 months old. I will check the fairings for stones or loose wiring harness then. Thank you for the input sir.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Just opened up the fairings and checked, the sound is still there. It appears to be coming from valve cover. I have recorded it, please listen.

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R


Hi,

I am not expert but merely a fellow enthusiast. The audio recording that you have shared doesn't give a clear picture. Which pitch of the particular sound are you referring to? Since, the motorcycle is not physically present in front of us hope you understand it is quite difficult to identify and troubleshoot remotely. You may try the following pointers and see if it helps you:

* If it is the continuous high pitch pinging sound you are referring to.. unless that is unbearably loud then it can't be the shim. Usually with increase in valve clearance the vehicle ends up giving slightly higher FE and the top end of the bike reduces as in willingness to do triple digit speeds is diminished. Also the the sound will remain constant as the bike reaches operating temperature and will be noticeably very very loud even when idling. Are you witnessing something similar or there has been no change in that? if so the shims going out and that too for a vehicle which has just done 3,400 kms is highly unlikely. If you still want to check the valve clearances for peace of mind then you will have to take it to the SVC and let the engine cool down completely (preferably for a window of 4 - 6 hours) then open the valve head cover and measure the clearances using feeler gauge.

* May be what you are referring to is simply the intake roar which will be there between the given 3 - 4k rpms you have mentioned and then goes out as the rpm and respective speed increases. Check below the seat and see if there is anything blocking the intake point of the vehicle.

* Going by the advice given by your SVC mechanic, drain the old petrol completely fill in fresh petrol, tank full from a reputed Shell bunk in your city. Use System G: 1ml per ltr and ride it till you hit reserve. See if the behaviour and respective sound diminishes from your bike. Since, coincidentally you have mentioned to get this issue the moment you filled fuel from a particular bunk, may be what you are witnessing is simply knocking or pinging sound due to bad fuel getting injected inside the combustion chamber. If you do ride your bike at slow speeds, keep the bike on a taller gear below 3k rpm and then try to accelerate the vehicle will knock. Is that what you are referring to or is it so that the sound is there irrespective of whichever gear you are in and then accelerate?

* This is the worse case scenario: a manufacturing defect of either the cam chain tensioner of or the cam timing chain has gone bad which in case if so is the real culprit: then can be replaced for free as it will be covered as a manufacturing defect under Honda's engine warranty. Though i suspect this is highly unlikely especially for later CBR 250R 2014 model onwards.


Cheers,

Re: The story so far.. My Honda CBR 250R

Hi mate,
Thank you for the inputs.
The sound is not the high pitch one, just listen when the engine decelarates, there is a low rattle that can be heard in the audio.

The sound is not there continuously, throughout the rpm range, it starts from 3k and goes upto 4k. It is also present when the engine decelarates from 4k-3k. When the engine is cold, there is absolutely no sound. It starts when the engine reaches optimum temperature.

Irrespective of all the gears, the sound is present. But the sound becomes almost negligible in 4th, 5th and 6th gear. Like i said it is only present from 3k-4k rpm range and as the engine rpm will be above 4k from 4th gear onwards, there is no sound.

I took out 3.25 litres of petrol, the bike was on reserve then i filled fresh petrol. But sadly i am not able to get system g in my hometown. Even after running on fresh petrol for almost 60kms, the sound is present.

It could be a manufacturing defect. But i will be able to take the bike to svc only after 2 days, but the svc here is a small one and i don't think they will have the required spares with them so i will have to take it to the next big city. This will take some time. Is it okay to ride the bike before taking it to svc? Would it cause any damage?

I am going to check whether something is blocking the intake.
Please listen to the audio using earphones or else you won't be able to hear the rattle.