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Retrofitted LEDs on tailight of my P150 Classic
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But you do know that the system runs at around 13.6V, so effectively you are running the LEDs at above their rated voltage/current. And, I have posted some daytime pics of the LEDs. I feel they are bright enough - they are same as Pulsar OEM LEDs, but not as bright as Apache LEDs.
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Yeah, and you don't want to be soldering these stuffs every other day!
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ok...but i designed it for 12v and 2v..hope the leds wont blow off..Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostYeah, and I used a little more to ensure LEDs last for long. You can use 100 ohms too..
No, battery voltage is not exactly 12V. You may measure with a multimeter and see. And for the LEDs it varies between 2 and 3. I used a conservative value.
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Yeah, and I used a little more to ensure LEDs last for long. You can use 100 ohms too..Originally posted by zmint View PostI gives 100 ohm
No, battery voltage is not exactly 12V. You may measure with a multimeter and see. And for the LEDs it varies between 2 and 3. I used a conservative value.Originally posted by fayad555 View Post@abhijeet
why 14V supply source and 3v led voltage?
it should be 12v and 2v resp. right?
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@abhijeet
why 14V supply source and 3v led voltage?
it should be 12v and 2v resp. right?
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Answers in bold.Originally posted by zmint View PostOk. Now what I understand is that I should stick to 100uF 63V but try to change R1 with a VR and see.
Yeah, and if it works, go for a 200V cap finally.
which VR value do you suggest. You see how poor I am to all this
I too am not a veteran!
I think a 1Mohm potentiometer would be good.
You mean, see the brightness ? or check it with a multimeter ?
Not brightness man!
With a multimeter!
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Ok. Now what I understand is that I should stick to 100uF 63V but try to change R1 with a VR and see.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostIt means there is not enough current draw to charge the 63V cap.
which VR value do you suggest. You see how poor I am to all thisIf you have a VR, you can try this out
You mean, see the brightness ? or check it with a multimeter ?while monitoring LED voltage/current.
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My pleasure! No guru and all please!Originally posted by zmint View PostThanks guru for clearing all my doubts.

Yeah, C1&R1 form a filter to reduce the current draw. If the LEDs do not glow, it means there is not enough current draw to charge the 63V cap. How about reducing the value of R1? If you have a VR, you can try this out while monitoring LED voltage/current.Originally posted by zmint View PostI think I have to polish my explanation skill a lot.
Let me put it again : I purchased these LED lamps from market. But they are not durable enough. When I opened one of them It had this circuit I posted above. The Value of C2 was 100 uF 35 V. When I changed it to 100 uF 63 V, (Pls. note that I only changed the volt rating 35 to 63 not the uF rating i.e. 100 uF) but the LEDS didn't glow. Now as per your advice should I try for 47 uF 120 V
.
What I understand from the circuit is that C1 (MEF-474J/250V (MEF) Metallized Polyester Film Cap.) and R1 along with the bridge, reduce the AC current to a LED acceptable level. Am I right. ?
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Thanks guru for clearing all my doubts.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostI used 2 100ohm resistors in series to make it 200ohms as I did not have 200ohms resistors at that time. Hence double the number of resistors used.
I think I have to polish my explanation skill a lot.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostAs for the ckt, make C2 as 47uF (its enough for a few LEDs, 100uF cap will take some space, use it if you want), 200V (35V is too low, use 120V atleast) caps.
Let me put it again : I purchased these LED lamps from market. But they are not durable enough. When I opened one of them It had this circuit I posted above. The Value of C2 was 100 uF 35 V. When I changed it to 100 uF 63 V, (Pls. note that I only changed the volt rating 35 to 63 not the uF rating i.e. 100 uF) but the LEDS didn't glow. Now as per your advice should I try for 47 uF 120 V
.
What I understand from the circuit is that C1 (MEF-474J/250V (MEF) Metallized Polyester Film Cap.) and R1 along with the bridge, reduce the AC current to a LED acceptable level. Am I right. ?
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Thanks for the info about desoldering gauze wire.
@zmint -
Those are 8mm LEDs!
Yeah, if there is no patterns, its clear lens.
I used 2 100ohm resistors in series to make it 200ohms as I did not have 200ohms resistors at that time. Hence double the number of resistors used.
As for the ckt, make C2 as 47uF (its enough for a few LEDs, 100uF cap will take some space, use it if you want), 200V (35V is too low, use 120V atleast) caps. Ensure correct polarity.
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Off Topic advise from Electronix Guru
Seeing your electronic knowledge One more request :
Saving and Optimal use of resources is like second nature to me. From long I needed a AC powered LED Lamp(Bulb) for saving power, irrespective of the fact that, I don't have to pay the electricity bills. Its free to me.
Now, I have these small LED Lamps for overnight glowing.
They consume very less power but a little problem. The Paper Capacitor (100 uF 35V) in the circuit Pops Up (Bust) after continues use.
I tried changing it to a higher Voltage (100uF 63V) but the LEDS won't glow.
Can you please suggest me the value of the Cap. so that the lamp keeps on working without busting, even after prolonged use.
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