I once used NGK g power or something expensive plug and the engine became coarse and heated up a lot ....didnt like it at all so returned to stock plug ...i change it every 8K kms .

I dont think cleaning works with our paper filters that much even with compressed air ....one reason i change the filter often ....most of the time i just tap it on the floor and put it back as i change it every 5-6K kms...will post my filter snaps tomorrow...i checked it after 3 k kms and it was like new...its nearing 5k kms now so i better check it tomorrow .

Also i checked my mileage today and i am getting 47km/lt inside the town even with the uni sprocket...i slightly changed my riding style but didnt think it will impact the mileage this much...i am pretty sure this is the best mileage i ever got inside kanchipuram lol .



Champion sucks thats what pinaki or psr said in one of the posts .

ohhh so i also need to change my spark plug. mine is 12k kms+ and didnt change anything except oils and air filters.
For removing the sparkplug is our stock tool set is enought? which tool to use and is it clock wise or anti clock wise to open it.

wow with unicorn full chain kit (DIAMOND) YOU GETTING A GOOD MILAGE. Is the riding is smoother than before. i know sibun bro said that we will miss the sudden pickup by using unicorn setup.

1) mate which model unicorn DIAMOND kit you brought back 42 or 43t? and is it a direct fit.

2) whats the cost of it?
3) is that void my warranty?

@ sibun

My spark plug photos. plzzz tel me i am running lean or rich. or am i need to change spark plug.

That's how my air filter looked . Air filter may break if you tap it hard on the floor.

You are running rich because of your previous dirty filter. Ride with the new filter for five days and then re tune carb using my guide. No need of changing spark plug. It is not worn out.

guys need help,

from yesterday my front handle is making noise whenever the front wheel goes over a bump or when braking hard......the sound is like kad-kad...it literally feels as if something is loose...when i asked my trusted mech he said it might be racer bearings or racer set......isnt it too early for racer set going kaput?..
i have run only 2350kms......

ball race / bearings won't go kaput at 2350.
it would've got loose which is causing the issue.
Are you getting shaky feel on handle when you go over potholes/bumps?

ok thank bro. i will retune after 2 days and check milage. if after that too the rpm needle is fluctuating is it need a carb cleaning?

@Sibun: I'm sure a lot of people can benefit from this. Could you post a video of how you do the carburetor tuning? Two separate videos but recorded at the same time, one which shows how much you're turning the Air/Fuel Screw and the second showing the Tachometer. Basically showing the turning of the screw and the corresponding change on the tachometer. Could you then lineup the videos side by side so that we could know exactly where we need to stop turning the screw? If it's too much, some snapshots showing how many turns and the corresponding tachometer reading.

Because no matter how much I try, I get the highest RPM point, but the Tacho is never stable and it really ticks me off to see the Tacho behave that way. Those morons at the A.S.C claim it to be 'normal'! I know it is a lot of work, but if you could do this, it would be splendid. Also, is a Digital Tachometer really that useful in tuning the bike?

@ATHUL4R Your plug looks similar to how my old plug was at 2.5 turns out...that time i was running rich .

@vickul Dont let that local mech touch your bike....you are still in warranty so take it to SC and let the head mech inspect your ride.

Today changed to stock sprocket again and applied some all purpose lithium grease also....the pickup has increased and it touches 80Km/hr in no time....but the tank vibrates at 80km/hr slightly which was there from day 1 so nothing changed ...i hate the stock setup for the first 3 gears ...liked the uni sprocket but i cant explain why.... i just like it....going on a 400-600 km strip shortly will keep the stock set up for this trip to check mileage .

Also my horn fell off today when i was doing 80Km/hr after i installed the stock sprocket.

My air filter was dirty too....but the new filter i had with me for a long time turned out to be fake when i opened it today....so didnt install it.

@Sibun any thing i can do to get better light from the head light without fooking the battery ?

yes ! it will help alot for us. Sibun pls vidoes

Hi Guys,i was out of town for 6 days and when i returned i started my bike but it refused to. full throttle self start didnt work either.push start it,still no luck. after 3-4 push start it finally started. This is happening 4th time to me. What can be the reason. Its little cold here at night but i dont think it should matter coz winters are about to come in its full flow.what will happen then . m worried. will change to 10W40 today at 7th service.finally i have got free time for all long pending work.will update . . .

Check the milage in the same town where you got 47kmpl in unicorn 15t. Did you brought DIAMOND kit of unicorn or CBZ?

@ sibun like aswin said me too facing the same. so we all need the Tutorial video. Help us mate. i think for good un shaken video you need a friend help so your friend will take vide in zooming positiong so that you can concentrate on carb and rpm.
I am going to collect my waxpol at bluedart courier service (COD) total cost of 245rs for 200gm. 100rs extra i know but no other way to get it here. i searched most of the shops. every one have 3M.
For waxing is ordinary sponge is enough?

@all- posting video is ok, but first let me find a friend and time both at the same time to shoot.
Tuning is not a difficult thing to do. Just follow my steps and you will easily tune the bike. And i have not touched the factory tuning of my extreme but i think i will tune my friend's extreme and shoot the videos.

The procedure of tuning is :-
Step 1:- tighten the air screw and open 1.5 turns out.
step 2:- start the engine and idle for 5 mins to warm the engine.
step 3:- ensure the engine is fully warmed and set the idling 1.4k rpm by idling screw.
step 4:- now rotate the air screw slightly in both direction, and see which direction rpm is increasing. If not increasing and decreasing both side then the present position is correct.
step 5:- continue rotating in the direction where rpm is increasing. at a point the rpm will be highest and after that it will dip.
step 6:- at the point where rpm is highest leave the air screw and decrease the idling to 1.4k by idling screw( because the rpm will be high due to air screw tuning).
Step 7:- If your strokes are constant then decrease the idling to 1k by idling screw else the next step.
step 8:- If your strokes are not constant lean the mixture(clockwise or tighten the air screw) by 100 rpm to 1300 and then decrease the idle to 1K.

A slight variation of needle while idling is not a problem. As engine gets old and carb also gets old needle will slightly fluctuate on idling.If valves also leak then also idle will fluctuate.
In my next post i will post methods for cleaning carb.
Standard tuning is between 1.5 to 2 turns.

@ATHUL- yes ordinary sponge is enough but damp the sponge with water and squeeze it and then use to possible.

Guide is revised & std tuning is 1.5 to 2 turns from tight end???is it same for old engines & new engines?

nothing is revised, all is same as before.
I mentioned two positions of air screw to iron out issues.
In some bikes if you set the tune to where the rpm is highest the bike will be smooth and return mileage.
But in some bikes it will not work and a slightly lean by 100 rpm will sort it out.
Tuning is for old and new bikes.
About cleaning carb follow stunner guide in DIY thread.