@ Imran ,

Rich mixture can lead to a rough engine , because you will be burning more fuel with less air. Even your emission will increase . WHy do you want to play around with mixture ?

The factory tuning is set for optimum performance considering the emission norms .

BTW : what is this HHO kit ? never heard of it before

It could be a problem if the grease is enough to clog some fine hole in there , you just need a thin layer of lube to prevent thread binding .. so I use the thin oil, and just on the screw threads only . Generally don't use grease anywhere inside a carb . But since the AFR screw in the cbz-x is actually a fuel-screw I believe , so fuel flowing past the tip would leave nothing there more than a minute , so no problem .

@Imran: Do NOT fiddle with your carb tuning until the 3rd Free service at least. I am done with my 3rd free service and haven't fiddled with a perfectly ok working carb. Important thing to remember: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"!!

And bro, while posting please note that xbhp allows a multi-quote option. Quite a useful thing when you want to answer/reply to multiple posts/comments. I would suggest you to use that instead of posting multiple replies one after the other. Keeps the readability better for the rest of the members. Find it at the bottom right most corner of any post that you wish to quote/multiquote.

Okay i got it ,ill use multi quote reply if required!

Hi Guys,

I have a CBZ Xtreme, 2011 model, the red and black one. She has clocked 19400 kilometres. Of late my bike is giving me pickup problems. When I give her a full throttle the engine suddenly gives up, as if there is no more fuel in the tank, even though I keep my tank full most of the times.

I don't understand it, at full throttle the engine sort of gives up, as if the bike is going in reserve or something. Please advise what could be the problem and how to solve it. Thank you.

Any changes done to carb settings recently?
What about your airfilter and sparkplug?
Where were they changed/cleaned last?

Once while cleaning my splendor's carburetor I was not able to retrieve the o-ring,I was thinking it was stuck inside but actually the o-ring got disintegrated into small pieces overtime. It came out when I tried to back flush it with carburetor cleaner.

I have not exceeded 100 on my extreme because i do not like to rip new bikes like hell and i rip only after 10k on odo.
But i have extensively ridden my friends 2007 extreme(one with analogue meters) and i have touched 120 on sitting upright and on crouching the needle was inching closer to 130. So 127 on hunk is possible.
Even overdrive has confirmed of needle touching 130 that too at redline.
I will dig out the issue and post here.
Extreme is one of the best performing 150 in market but most of them do not think so. The so called who think that extreme/hunk is not good has not actually ridden them extensively.
The true top speed of extreme is 114 kph which is bang on same or more than some 150 cc in market.You can touch 118 with some crouching. This happens at almost redline. I think extreme should have a sixth gear and overdrive also has pointed out.
But the new model extremes will touch 116 kph on their digital speedo.Its because the new extreme uses same sensor and wheels from ZMR. So like ZMR it has the accurate speedo. As you all know and all magazines have pointed out ZMR has the most accurate speedo and it matches with V-box data recorder. So the new hunk/extreme have also accurate speedo but hero didn't advertise it and thus the ignorance.
All those 150 who post more top speed on speedo have actually huge speedo error.
Try to ride side by side with other bike with the digital extreme/hunk and see the difference. I have tested with my friends on long rides.
All 150 have true top speed in the range of 110 to 118 kph except the R15 or CBR 150.
Most don't believe it because hunk/extreme feel docile in slow city speeds but as the tacho passes 6K rpm all hell breaks loose. The way this bike pulls from 6k to 9k rpm will fool you into believing it a 4 valve engine.
I also felt the same when i was running in the engine. I felt my JOY had better pulling power.
I do an extended running-in of 1500 km.
So i didn't knew about performance, but at 2k km i was returning from office and it was approximately 8 PM. I was dead tired and a moron in alto was not leaving way.In red light i decided to show him who is the boss. As soon as light turned green i pulled hard in 1st gear till 9K rpm. As soon as the tacho crossed 6k you will feel as if you are pulled by a different bike. I continued shifting at 8.5k and the alto was lost.
There is dirt between air screw passage and slow jet. Most probably parts of old o-ring. Also never use grease on tip of air screw as it will block the passage between air screw and slow jet.
Open the carb, and also remove the air screw. Now blow air through slow jet point through air screw hole. Next blow compressed air through air screw hole. Also blow air through jets. After that wash everything using petrol as compressed air contains moisture. Your problem will go. Clean the air screw and never use grease.
Also insert the air screw in hole with tip facing up as the o-ring will fall in hole and get damaged. Never use grease in carb.
Regarding tuning:-
1. Tighten the air screw completely.
2.Raise the idle to 2K by idle screw.
3. Go on opening air screw till you obtain highest idling.
4. Decrease idle to 1400 by IDLE SCREW.
5. Now decrease idle to 1300 RPM by leaning(tightening) the air screw.
6. Decrease the idle to 1.1k by idle screw.


Yes, lean or rich both will cause roughness and lose in power. A slightly leaner from ideal is recommended.
Have you changed the air filter. Check and if too dirty replace it.

Hi Buddy,

I am not sure if the carb settings were changed recently.

I have a daily run of about 50 kilometres and my bike is serviced once a month at Hero Honda showroom - Sehgal Autoriders, Pune. I guess they are cleaned regularly, once a month if the showroom does its job. Is there any way to be sure if they aren't? I asked the to change the air filter in my last service(two days ago) but they didn't have it in stock, so it wasn't done.

I never give my bike for repairs anywhere except the showroom, so if any changes were made, they were done there.

Other than when I go full throttle suddenly, my bike performs normally. Please advise. Thanks.

Regards,

Hi Buddy,

I did ask them to change my air filter, but they didn't have it. Also,the firing has become sort of hollow, as if there is something wrong with the silencer. Could these be connected?

And I did try to use the multiquote, but I guess I don't know how to use it yet.

Thanks for your help.

I believe its because of dirty/faulty airfilter/plug.
Sibun has also pointed towards airfilter in above post.
I've recently faced starting problem/missing due to a faulty plug.

If you never changed plug / airfilter in your 18k+ riding course, its time for getting them changed

@Sibun ,
How to identify the bike is rich,too rich, ideal,lean & too lean?

can any Hunk/xtreme owner tell me at how many rotations from tight end is the fuel screw in the carb??because i think i messed up with my carb tuning ,im feeling little vibrations

my carb screw is 2 rotation from tight end ,i think its too lean,

Guys comment on it

@ sibun

yesterday i went to another HH authorised SVC and told him to ride my bike. after riding the he said that the small sound that occurring is from main bearing ( i think crank bearing). i went to another SVC he said the sound is from Piston pin.
today i am going to give it to SVC. let me talk with him.

By main bearing they mean crank bearing. Although they have reached near the cause, once they open the crank, then they will know that con rod is loose.
Your bore will have also gone. Send a mail to hero as a proof.

ok mate.
can you tell me the rate of labor charge of changing a crank? i ask you because he is very greedy.
even he sells spareparts with labor charge. i ask him 2 weeks ago for camshaft he calculated and said 847rs+ tax 117 + labor charge 350.