The mistake is in step 5. Instead of decreasing the idle by air screw to 2700 rpm, decrease the idle by idling screw to 1400 rpm then by air screw decrease the idling by 100 rpm in clockwise direction(lean), your idle will be now at 1300 rpm. decrease to 1100 rpm by idling screw.
Yes, you can get G-power in bhubaneswar, but there are a lot of duplicates. Lets move this discussion to zma thread, Post the part no. and i will let you know tomorrow.

Sibun check the steps now, is it fine?

step1. Engine warm up
step2. air screw tightened (clockwise rotation)
step3. increased idle to 2000rpm by idle screw
step4. i rotated air screw (anticlock directio) until i get highest rpm ,my case it was 3100rpm
step5. idle screw rotated in clockwise to reduce the idle to 1400rpm
step6. now air screw adjusted to 1300rpm
step7. idle screw to 1000rpm

one doubt i have, after highest rpm using air screw, i should adjust air screw to see reduction in rpm & then use idle screw to 1400rpm or i should use idle screw to reduce to 1400 just from highest rpm ??

or pls edit my steps & post it in detail,i will follow it

Thanks for all the help sibun ji .

Drained the oil a couple of days back as the oil level was was nearing the minimum mark in the dipstick - the oil leaking from the bore now looks scary will post the pictures today -measured the oil and was surprised to see nearly 875ml of oil came out of the drain bolt with a lot of tilting - i changed the oil as the leakage was looking scary so didnt want to damage the new bore with low oil level - with that kinda oil leaking i thought i would find a lot less oil thats one of the reasons i measured it in the first place but really dont know how 850+ml still remained after 1500+ kms of leaking .

@write2rashid

They dont sell piston and rings separately you will have to buy the whole bore kit for Rs 3100 or you can get the uni. piston + rings made by USHA for Rs 500 - i tried to do this only first but the SC flatly refused to use unicorn spares .If you do get the kit make sure you get the USHA one not SAL.

@ Sibun . Pls reply to my previous post .need your feedback urgently

So what things i need to replace or repair in warranty. can u please explain a little. So that i can talk with MD of that SVC. I already send a mail about saying that the SVC guys not giving me warranty as i done 2 service at another SVC but its Authorized The Hero guys send me a mail giving the MD mob no of that SVC who reject to do work in warranty. if you tell me what things i should tell it to them the actual complaints and what needs to be replaced or repaired. would be great helpful. if u do it fast i can give to SVC tomorrow.

that video is take by pulling the choke switch.
this video is with out choke.


is this rocker arm?


is this CAMSHAFT

Yes now the process is correct. You must use the idle screw to decrease the idle to 1400 rpm after high rpm and then lean the mixture by air screw so that it decreases to 1300 rpm.Remember it will decrease both on leaning and richening. But you must lean the mixture, if you richen it by 100 rpm then the bike will bog down on sudden acceleration.
Now a days all the bores are coming of USHA make. Previously HONDA was forcing HERO to take spares from honda as honda knows that the number of bikes that hero sale, if honda supplies spares then it will become rich. So hero started providing SAL which is its own casting company. SAL is one of the best company when comes to casting, engine casing, alloy footrest, DRUMS, e.t.c all that are cast are made by SAL. But pistons requires forging to provide it strength. So SAL which made pistons by casting couldn't impart strength.
So after separation from HONDA, hero again went back to its old supplier USHA.
Hero is now trying to go for a major change according to a friend of mine who works in hero motors, delhi. Expect a larger bike of 250 cc by next fiscal with EBR which will have many segment first features.
Hero is presently overhauling all its product and by 2014 it will launch a few performance bikes, Replace impulse with bigger engine, give new vertical cylinder engine to passion and splendor series, and also changes in extreme/ hunk.
I know the dealer as they come regularly to my friends spare shop as they deal in NGK, USHA bore pistons, valves and lubricants, brake shoes e.t.c. But if you directly go to them they will not sell. Today i will ask my friend if he has G-power and will give JPZMA. I will also introduce him to my friend, so that he can get spares, polishes, lubricants at a discount.
Yes the picture is of rocker arm and camshaft. But our rocker arm is different as it has a roller bearing in place of flat surface as in picture. The roller bearing decreases friction between camshaft and rocker.
From the sound you have posted i think it is not camshaft sound but it is con-rod sound. The sound is heavy banging sound. Do a thing decrease the idle to 700 rpm on hot engine and listen the sound. It should be a heavy banging sound. If it would have been camshaft noise the noise would not have been so heavy.
Can you tell me how much km the sound has been coming.

Regarding the SVC excuse of servicing in other service center, hero has authorized you to service in any service center across the whole of india.

I have heard the sound for more than 10 times that too on headphones and i am sure that it is crankshaft sound.Open the head cover and check camshaft, i am sure it has no problem.

For repairing crankshaft, whole engine has to be opened.
The following needs to be changed:-
1. Crankshaft
2. Bore kit- As the worn crank will be oscillating the piston and would have worn the bore out.
All the packing and consumables like engine oil will be borne by you.
And while opening the engine take care the mechanic doesn't separate the clutch plates as it will require new plates. Instead he must the take the clutch plate out with the clutch center as a single piece and fit in same way.
Clearly it is a manufacturing defect and the sound will be from beginning. But it took 12.5k to notice.Do not leave them as you have 3 years warranty.
Threaten them with consumer case and writing to various automobile magazines.Talk to the MD and show him your bike. Talk to him in a firm but polite voice. Your voice should be such that they will know that you will not leave them if they will not compile to your demands.

I have downloaded the video to my phone and will show it to my mechanic so that he will confirm it. Then tomorrow you can talk to MD. While going to my office i will go half an hour earlier and meet my mechanic on the way and show him the video.
If he confirms then there is no doubt and then you can demand to change crankshaft and if bore has scratches or worn out then bore kit also.

@Sibun ,like I rotated clockwise to get it to 1300 from 1400 , how to make out whether it is rich or lean? as you said rich or lean it will reduce ,

Bangalore xBHP members , OKs can you tell a good mechanic who can adjust mu tappets and who is good in hunk cbz engines

The air screw in cbz is not air screw but fuel screw. So the more you turn out it will be rich and the more you turn in it will be lean. So after setting 1400 rpm turn the screw in by 100 rpm.

it means I should turn to clock direction which is towards tightening from 1400,is this lean?HUNK & CBZ x has same carb I guess

Yes, hunk/extreme use same carb. Yes you got it right.

thanks alot Sibun, I got the process and I have done it in right way ,if there is too much lean ,tachometer won't be stable ,for this I should little rich it n reduce idle screw I guess, thanks for you help ,i understood tuning of this bike
Now going to ASC yo fix tappet noise

Running In Period query

Hi All,

I own a CBZ Xtreme Bike. I bought this bike in July and have done 1300 kms. Till the first 650kms i have not gone beyond 45kmph as i was directed by the service guy not to go beyond that speed limit.
But towards 1000km i went upto 64kmph on few occassions, as i was not aware of the running-in period.

I wanted to know whether i have stressed my bikes' engine by doing so, if yes then how could i check the damage done.
And kindly let me know how long is this running-in period and what should be the ideal/max speed of the bike during the period.

Kindly advise...

Thanks,
Viswanath

Thread Approved and Merged

@askraonow: Try reading your owner's manual for the accurate info.