Your problem can be any of these two:-
1. air is leaking from carb and in between engine
2. choke is slightly open.
Check these two. But your problem is most probably the first one.
For the clutch cable you pull out the sleeve from the old cable and enlarge the hole of the sleeve by a suitable material and push it on the new wire.

What do you mean by jiggling sound between 40-60 kph.
If it comes between 40-60 and not any other time then the two possible causes are:-
1. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and
2. Timing chain pads are worn out.
Check both of these and see if any of them are correct.

Could you please tell me exactly how much I push in the carb to the rubber hose that leads to the engine? The one from the air filter has been a clamp, so can be secured tightly, but this one has no such clamp.

EDIT: Spot on Sibun. There was a clamp that I missed that tightens the hose that leads to the engine. Problem solved looks like.

Also, how do I remove the sleeve? There's the metal bit that fits into the Clutch Lever that is preventing me from separating it from the clutch cable.

When I apply my front brakes when the bike is moving, I get a rubbing sound. Not metal on metal, but a little different. I cleaned the pads with petrol, but no improvement. And there's a lot more pad left.

There are 2 outlets from the fuel tank, one thin one and one fat. Only the thin one on my bike has an outlet pipe, the fat one doesn't. I'm not ok with ignoring things even if they tend to be harmless, so could someone tell me what is that outlet for and what pipe must I ask for at the spare parts store?

One last thing Sibun, do I disconnect the TPS or do I unscrew it out of the carb?

Sibun, I tightened the clamp, now the bike doesn't stall in traffic, but as I keep riding, the RPMs increase. If I ride quite fast, it increases faster. While starting up initially, it idles at 1.3k, which is fine. But as I ride, it increases to 2.5k now. What might be the problem?

Running lean, check for leaks.

Hey, thanks for the reply.

Could you tell me why do you think the engine is running lean? I'd like to know the symptoms so that I'm lost again in future.

Again, as far as leaks go, I fixed the one from the carb to the engine. There is a clamp that tightens the hose from the air filter box to the carb, but I'm not able to tighten this fully as the carb fits snugly into this hose. I'm unable to tighten it fully because at a certain point, the head of the screw just slips through the holes for the screw. Can this cause a problem?

Symptoms of lean =>
1. RPM Fluctuates when hot.
2. Greater difference in cold vs hot idle.
3. Accelerates quickly but floats on deacceleration.

Symptoms when rich =>
1. Hard to maintain idle.
2. Acceleration sucks, might hit brickwall while doing a top end run.

I'm sure that will help a lot of us around here.

So the not-fully-tight clamp on the hose that leads to the Carb is not an issue? Also, what is this clamp called? I asked for a Carb Clamp at a spare parts shop, but he looked like he didn't know what I was talking about. :P

No comments, things like this are left to the discretion of the owner i.e you. Cause you're the one who'se seeing it in person so your judgement will be far better than mine or anyone elses. And hence I dont want to misguide you.

It doesnt matter how hard the clamp is tightened, as long as there are'nt any leaks, aim for a perfect seal, no need to put effort on tightening clamp to the max, cause theres a chance it might slip.

Its a hose clamp, if you go to any local hardware store you can get it for Rs.6/-

Has anyone tried projector headlamps for CBZ xtreme ? I am not happy with the stock headlights . I don't want to upgrade to HID kit. I just want a projector lens with stock bulb .

Any thoughts guys ?

Just came from a 600km ride - the bike returned 49.4 km/lt - i maintained 70-80 km/hr .

As my new bore had crossed 10000 kms i tried touching 100 km/hr but i ran into a strange problem - the bike did 90km/hr at 8000 RPM - it does 80km/hr at 7000 RPM - as soon as it touched 8500RPM i backed off - the pickup is ok - i dont know whats going on here - i think at 8500 RPM the bike should be crossing 110km/hr no ? .

At 7000 Rpm in 5th gear the bike should do 87 kmph and 106kmph at 8500 Rpm.
(As per Rpm-Speed graph)

When did you replace the clutch plates ?
Often times the rider gets under false impression of good pickup because the RPMs increase rapidly (and change in noise) but as you are a senior experienced member let me refrain from commenting further.....you must be knowing the procedure to test the clutch plates,check it and please report back. Low mileage can also be indicating this.

Keep us updated.

As far as i remember, you have never changed clutch plates in your bike. So if the clutch has run for 25-30k then they are at the end of their life.

Since i now ride on highway regularly then i can guide you for more:-

In stock gearing (14/43) the bike will touch following speed in fifth gear at various rpm:-

5000 RPM------- 65 KPH
6000 RPM--------78 KPH
7000 RPM--------91 KPH
8000 RPM--------104 KPH
9000 RPM--------117 KPH

Since i have modified my gearing and am using 15 Teeth sprocket so i am getting the following speed:-

5000 RPM-------70 KPH
6000 RPM-------85 KPH
7000 RPM-------100 KPH
8000 RPM-------115 KPH

I haven't pulled beyond that. So if at high speed if your rpm and speed do not match then be sure that your clutch plate is at end of its life. So look at it and change it with OE. Post me here so that i can guide you further.

Have you touched 9000 RPM in top gear with stock gearing ?
How does the bike feel at 7-8K RPM ? In what RPM range she likes to be in ?

Waiting eagerly for your review.

is r15 sproket is direct fit please tell me the cost involved and pro & cons .am planing to change sprocket in near future

am planing to chane the followig things so please tell me the cost of these thing if you know

chain sproket 800
timing chain 450
disk pads 350
gear shifting thing 250
tyres (planing go for stock size tubeless) ?
clutch plates if needed (never changed but i thing they are in good condition)?
air filter 150
fuel and other pipes as they are cracked at edges ?
reboring ?

currently i dont have money but want will change them all at a time in near future
so please give me your valuable suggestion

thans in advance waiting for your reply

Yes, i have touched 9k rpm in stock gearing many a times. And mind it that i am saying this speed on my digital speedo which is accurate as measured by overdrive with there race logic v2.0.
In analogue meters i have seen the speedo north of 120 many a times while i was riding my friends extreme. Even with modified gearing you will be able to touch 9k rpm but you will have to pull till 8k rpm from third gear onwards.
Sarbonoxely speedo will show more speed than mine as his is analogue.

regarding feel then let be tell you after 6k Rpm the exhaust note deepens and suddenly the pull become strong. Then from 6k to 9k rpm the bike will travel faster than it travelled from 4k to 6k rpm. This bike loves to be in top range of rpm. After 6k rpm it feels like a 4 valver rather than 2 valver.
The best rpm is in-between 6k to 7k as it makes its maximum torque there.
In fact after changing to 15T sprocket i ahven't felt the need to go above 7k rpm as it touches 100 at that. only once that is when there was strike on 20 and 21st i was returning home on 20th morning as it was two days off, the highway was complete deserted. A moron on his previous model extreme decided to race me that too with 2 up.
Little did he knew that i had modified the gearing. I pulled hard from third gear and i remember touhing 92 on third gear itself. At that time i had touched 8k rpm and speedo was at 115 kph.

In a nutshell you can say that if you are street fighter use 14 T front sprocket and if you want highway pleasures then use 15T front sprocket.

Why do you want to use R15 sprocket as it is quite costly at Rs.3k.
Use chain kit from DIAMOND or ROLON, will cost you Rs.900. If you can get then go for DID will cost you Rs.1100. Do not go for OE kit.
Timing chain is not Rs.450, but somewhere around Rs.323. If you can get go for DIAMOND or ROLON directly.
Disk pad is Rs.347 and it is OE. However if you want to sacrifise pad life for better braking and feel go for KBX pad will cost you Rs.150.
Gear shifter, i do not have idea, but will roughly be same as you mentioned.
Tyres price i cannot tell because tyre price are unstable and are increasing every month. However expect 2k for rear and 1.5k for front in tubeless.
Clutch plates if they are worn, you can feel as i have mentioned above. Will cost Rs.1300 for OE.
Air filter cost is Rs.167.
get the complete kit of fuel, air pipes and all those pipes will cost you Rs.125 for entire kit and go for OE ones only.
Reboring, if you get a good re-boring guy who does it on boring machines rather than turning machines like lathes then re-boring is better than new bore kit.
First search around for good re-boring guy. Ask some garages and also car garages as they know better. then go to the shop and have a chat with that guy and see that he works with boring machine. then go for boring.
Buy USHA piston and rings - first oversize(0.25) and will cost only Rs.900 for piston and rings kit.
If you cannot find a good boring guy then go for new bore kit.